This is how I replaced my intercooler on my 2002 S60 D5 (163). The car felt a little down on power and was producing black smoke when accelerating hard.
many thanks for this, just done mine today and solved black smoke on acceleration and lack of power, used an after market intercooler (£100) which looked like same packaging as one on video, hopefully problem solved. 4hrs with a beak for rain , I had car on ramps which made it a little easier to manoeuvre replacement.
Excellent vid, Thx. My 04 D5 has that map sensor hole on the passenger side. I had to undo the radiator hoses as well to get sufficient movement. Terrific when you get the boost back at last!
Excellent vid as mentioned. Gives improved throttle response even at low load rpm. No more black smoke. Power delivery overall subtly but noticably better. My tips to add Oil might not be showing at bottom of intercooler. Mine went at the top - first noticed as lots of oil spray had made it into air intake and airbox. Check air filter. Headlights out can make a bit more space and only adds 5 minutes work. Dont forget to check bonnet release action before putting all those bolts back in. Eurocarparts intercooler pretty cheaply constructed but no more black smoke! But required filing down screw post for MAP sensor to get it to fit. Bad manufacturing.
I've got a 2.5T but she's been in a minor collision so I need to remove the slam panel... Very good video, will come in useful this weekend...cheers mate
fred flintstone probably because he wrongly located the map sensor for the later cars. It is located in the outlet of the intercooler not the inlet as mentioned. So they probably ordered the wrong intercooler 🤫
Thanks for the video, I have a 2003 V70 D5 with an oily intercooler so I am looking at doing this myself. The MAP sensor is actually on the opposite side of the intercooler to where you have indicated. I have found what would appear to be a simpler process to replace it in the Haynes manual. They recommend removing the fan which lifts upwards then removing the radiator with intercooler attached downwards, this way the bumper and slam panel do not haver to be removed but the front of the vehicle has to be elevated to allow sufficient clearance to remove the radiator and intercooler.
Thanks for clarifying the MAP sensor location, Mark. Because mine is located in the inlet, I wasn't sure about the later cars. I can imagine that removal downards might be easier but I don't think I could achieve the clearance required. Doubtless others can though, so thanks for the tip.
I replaced mine last weekend using the drop down method, enough clearance can be obtained using axle stands. If anyone wants to try doing it this way make sure that you have assistance on hand as lifting the new one back into place from below is not easy. In the end it needed three of us (two below and one above). I added to the complication by fitting the upgraded do88 intercooler which has 50% more volume and is considerably heavier than the OEM item.
@@MarkSherwen did the bumper and front panel need to be removed when dropping the cooler out of the bottom? Just noticed that mine has failed so I need to replace asap with a factor unit.
@@Ascottie75 from what I remember no it didn't the instructions on the do88 intercooler were very good. It's a bit fiddly so better with two people and you need axle stands to get the right amount of ground clearance.
Had to have this done myself -I paid a garage. New condenser needed, intercooler, five glow plugs, new alternator, washer fluid pump for headlights, headlight [drivers side] motor for height adjust, handbrake shoes and aftermarket shoe adjuster which the Volvo does not have and why their handbrakes are so poor over time. Also water pump and cam belt along with a new alternator belt and idlers/tensioner. New windscreen, wiper blades, discs and pads all round. £4,034.80… Car cost me £2,970.00 has done 154,468 miles.
Great vid. But I've done this today. Mine being the intercooler with the sensor in it. I cannot stress enough how difficult it was to put the sensor in its place. Virtually, if the map sensor goes bad the procedure is the same as changing the intercooler, with the exceptions of actually removing the intercooler itself!!!! The sensor sits right next to the metal part behind the headlight, the part that the intercooler inlets/ outlet does not clear easy!. Also that sensor has a screw to hold it in place. This part of the job, putting the sensor in the new intercooler was to me the hardest challenge of the whole job. And I cannot stress enough the danger of having to fiddle with a small screw right above a large opening of an intercooler.... Anyway... It's done, haven't reassemble everything yet as it started raining. But the remaining challenge will be to figure out of all the screws I pilled which ones go where, as they all are 10mm, but with different lengths. Besides of the. Care needed to place the hood cable correctly....
There is actually an infinitley easier way to remove radiator and intercooler together. remove all pipes from the radiator, intercooler and aircon units and undo the security bolts on the top of the crossmember above radiator. Then from below the car undo the four bolts holding whole cooling matrix and the whole lot can be dropped out of the car still bolted together, which must be on ramps or jacked up due to the matrix needing to clear the car properly. splitting the various cooling elements is easy. saves having to half strip the whole front of the car.
@@maxvanpoll i have done this twice before ,once by myself,replacing radiator and intercooler on separate occasions. I learned how to do it this way by specialist volvo mechanics who did an intercooler change for me this way in under half an hour. It felt like being in the pits at brandshatch.
excellente video . attention en remontant la partie de devant de bien vérifier la position du câble pour l ouverture du capot, sinon c est un grand moment de solitude quand le capot s ouvre plus.merci
Very good thank you I have same problem mine is euro 4 185bhp keeps telling me my maf has low signal only get it when at low revs and tryig to boost swopped maf no different at all so it's not the maf it's also done 146 thousand so probably be the intercooler thanks agai for the vid I'll use this as I do it
Hello.did you experienced power loss (like the car went in to a emergency mode?) have that problem pluss smoke when i Accelerate. Its worse when the engine is cold.
Why will oil drain from an intercooler? From my knowledge, an intercooler is just compressed air from turbo etc. How did oil get into that and does it mean its filled up with oil and then getting it leaked?
In this particular example oil can drain back from the EGR to intake junction pipe (a section of aluminium pipe at the front of the engine). Over a long period of time a small amount of oil can then collect at the lowest point: the intercooler. There are other reasons oil might be present, including by passing the turbo oil seal. This may present a more serious problem if left unchecked.
Hello Komrade :) Please tell me if it is necessary to drain the coolant and refill before the intercooler get changed. Can it be done without draining radiator.
Not a hard job and a common issue on the D5s. I believe the sensor you were speaking of is on the passenger side of the intercooler. Mine has a big hole in 😂
I´ve got a V70 D5 (163) 2002 that is producing black smoke when accelerating hard aswell, and also its very difficult to start when the car is in working temp but when its cold its very easy started. Do you think that it might be the intercooler on mine aswell or can it be a problem with the electric system?
Hi Albin, this sounds most like a failing injector, to me. I would be undertaking a leak-off test on all injectors before going any further or buying any parts. The leak off test will be very cheap, quite quick and provide you some good information about the health of your injectors. It is possible that you have more than one problem: hard warm-starting could be an injector and black smoke under load could be the intercooler (or any other component associated with the ECM6805 code).
How is oil supposed to get into the intercooler? As I know, the oil goes only through its radiator and the intercooler is just a path for the compressed air from the turbocharger. How it really is, anyway?
I would assume by passing the turbo oil seal. Potentially a small quantity of oil may also drain 'backwards' from the post-EGR intake pipework which can sometimes contain oily deposits.
You can have a look at the base of the intercooler and see if it is bulging and/or oily (lean under the car to see). These signs are usually a giveaway that the intercooler is leaking.
I didn't need to disconnect any sensors on mine, but I understand that some other models might require this. I'm not sure if this will then need a reset in Vida afterwards.
Please forward £50 plus £5 p&p and I'll post your very own Cat Box 3000 out to you. For an additional £30 you can try the all-new Cat Box 4000 which improves upon the CB 3000 design by actually working.
Hi! How was the result of the car after replacing the intercooler? Did it produce less black smoke, and can you tell if the engine produced more power? Have you noticed if the car accelerate better, or/and has a better torque? :)
Hi Roy, I have indeed noticed much less black smoke upon hard acceleration (the only time it used to do it). I also notice more power but it's not a vast difference. I really carried out the procedure to (hopefully) cure the black smoke and the car now produces a normal amout for a Euro 3 diesel.
Hi sir, i have a same diesel ( d5244t, 163 HP). Could you talk me how did you determinate of damage of the cooler? Display computer error? Visually? Or other ways? Thanks
Hi Igor, there are a number of ways to determine if the intercooler is broken. In my case the car was emitting a noticeable amount of black smoke from the exhaust when accelerating hard and also the intercooler was black with fresh oil leaks. Other symptoms can commonly include visible bowing of the intercooler at the base (kneel down and look below the front bumper to see this) often accompanied with oil leaks, and the ECM6805 code. Beware of the ECM6805 code though: it simply signifies a boost-related issue and the cause can be many things, not just the intercooler. Have you scanned the car with Vida DiCE?
Komrade Shotabollokov Yes, i have. I have got this scanner from aliexpress, but now I'm waiting new installation disc for him (old disc had damage). As I right understand after I shall able to read any errors on him? Include error of intercooler as well... Thanks
Yes, Vida DiCE is a powerful tool that can read all the correct Volvo codes for your car, so you should see any errors relating to your intercooler. It is possible that there is no error for the intercooler and yet it might still be leaking though, so don't rely 100% on the result of the scan. My intercooler was not leaking badly enough to put the car into limp mode (and throw a code) but it was bad enough to feel underpowered and produce a lot of black smoke. I was not 100% sure my intercooler was broken until I filled it up with water, as shown in the video.
Just completed this on my v70 d5 and you can do it without removing the bumper it's tight but doable remove the fan then the radiator and the intercooler together after unbolting from ac once pipes are off plenty space save yourselves alot of time
@@elias6492 remove the intercooler and radiator together first remove fan and pipework unbolt top metal cover and bottom plastic tray undo 4 bolts that keep it on the AC and it will slide out upwards tight but doable
They're excellent engines, the D5s. This one is now on 237k and runs very well still. I average about 45mpg in it although I imagine the manual gearbox is better on fuel.
