Just an extra tip here at 4:05 - You need to make sure that regulator arm is not bent away from the door. If it IS bent, then the ball joint on the end of the arm will keep popping out of the blue plastic clip, even if the clip is brand new.... On my car, I used vice grips to carefully bent the arm slighly inwards to stop the ball joint from popping out under tension. Doing that (i.e bending the arm slightly) permenantly resolved the issue of the ball joint popping out of the blue plastic clip.
I did that a few times, eventually replaced the mechanism with new one. once they get bent they keep bending again. winter ice on the glass freezes the glass to the bottom seal, that bends the arms. I try to always use the garage in winter, you can try spraying the bottom seal with silicone spray.
@@gerardjones7881 Hi, did you have to replace just the actuator arm, or the whole metal interior portion of the door. And YES, once they are bent they KEEP bending again.
Great video! My wife has a 2005 S60 and the passenger window fell off the glide and after watching your video, I ordered the parts sliding blocks online. When I got the parts, the whole process from start to finish took about 45 minutes! Thanks for posting!
A perfect video. Just had my passenger window fail due to the plastic clip disintegration. This helps me massively now on how to quickly replace said item. Many thanks, Gary (UK).
The outer trim at the bottom of the window freezes on the window in winter time, and when you try to lower it, it forces on these plastic sliders and breaks them after a while. I push downwards with my fingers on the trim to force it dislodge from the window in freezing mornings, before getting into the car.
I think this is what i have to do now. Yesterday i opened my window at -27*c and heard a crack as it opened, when lowering the window it wont stay leveled but i managed to close it again. Gonna buy those blocks and try to fix it when tempatures are higher again otherwise im gonna probably destroy every plastic clip i encounter :D Thanks for the video
Great video, however the difficult part is played fast forward.. That right side has less space to work in, and to click the ball in to that new block is pretty difficult! I've got that t-shirt 3 times now.
Replaced both slider blocks on the passenger front last summer. Now, when I put the window up it hits the top and comes back down an inch. Did I do something wrong??? Excellent videos BTW, fast, accurate, and easy to see and understand plus tools & socket sizes, good on ya Bro
The window most likely needs to be re-initialized. You can try rolling it up until the window hits the top, letting off the auto up, then holding the auto up for 3 seconds. If that doesn't work you'll need to visit a Volvo dealership to have the window re-initialized. should take no more than a ½ hour.
Great video, easy clear explanations. 2005 XC70. One slider just was not there anymore. Probably at the bottom of the door in pieces. The other three were in bad shape. Replace all four definitely.
Oh wow. This was so helpful. I have an 2009 s80 & now both front windows are having problems going up & that gets really annoying. Hope this is my issue.
At least I found a very good tutorial about the thing I am convinced happened to my driver's widow. My mechanic suggested me to replace all the windows regulator mechanism which is in my opinion unreasonable as four months ego I removed a driver's door panel and saw it from the inside. That time I only applied some white grease to the moving parts and then it helped. Hope that is nothing more serious. Thanks.
Great stuff, thanks! I won't get the new slider pivots for about a week, but this helped me frankenfix it in the meantime with what's left of the old sliders. Had to get the window back up. Next time should go even quicker. One thing - if one slider is still stubbornly stuck on the regulator peg, how the heck do you get it off? Had to slide the window onto it at an angle rather than the other way around.
+1 to Ashlyn's comment below - was trying to do this today. Did the rear sliding block with no problem, got the front sliding block in place with the ball joint aligned with it, but for the life of me I could not figure out how to get a pair of locking pliers in there to pop it in!
Hi FCP Euro, Your video also covers the Volvo XC70 door configurationas well? Please include the XC70 in your title. (I have taken the door on my '04 XC70 apart, and it is identical to what you are working on!!). Thanks.
Wow, awesome! My window was sticking a little, but today it came off its rocker. Clunk. I live downtown and park my 2003 XC70 on the street. 😬 if I don't trust myself to do it (I don't), I wonder how much the Volvo dealership would charge? The nearest Volvo repair shop is not convenient and usually booked solid.
Much harder on a 2005 S-80 because the regulator is flipped around so that the back of the slide rail is seen first and then the regulator arm behind it, So to replace the pivot block on the front requires drilling out the rivets that hold the speaker in place or with a hole saw, cut an access point . I inspected the block with a mirror and decided to leave it alone
just done it!!!! so difficult... expect to loose a bit of skin and blood. no ones mentioned the other t25 Screw holding the door panel in place!!!. impossible to fit the retaining wire clips after getting regulator clips back in channels, but they did make a nice loud click when pressed into place like in the video, goes up and down smooth and quiet. So unless it gets stuck (ice) i'm sure it'll be fine.
READ THIS.!!!!! You do not have to remove and later put on the circlip. Just leave it on. The clip will open and snap shut. On an older Volvo where the clip is behind the window, the is no way to get the circlip back on on later.
Tip for everyone ... when you come to swap the sliders put a long cloth inside the door to catch the 2 spring circlips as you WILL drop them inside the door panel when fitting them. The cloth will let you retrieve the clips easily rather than spend 10 mins trying to locate them inside the door.
My window just fell down in my 04 V70R (224k miles) for the first time. Thank you for this video! Got the panel off and confirmed one of the channel blocks broke because I found it in the bottom of the door. Will be replacing both once parts come in. The grey cover still had all the original sticky sealant on it so I don't think the door panel has ever been off before. Is there anything specific you recommend to replace that with? Will double-sided tape be okay?
Thank you so much for such clear instructions and video! After installing the new clips and testing the window, it slows to a crawl and doesn't close completely. I think I may have ordered the wrong clips bc they did not have a snug fit with the arm, but that is the only comment I can add. The pins did seem to hold strongly. Can anyone help?
I'm doing this job on my 2004 S80 Awd 2.5t (Awd not working) now because my window fell. It's 40 degrees and raining at 1230am in Philadelphia Pa lol. I can't believe they left out the extra T25 screw I ALMOST BROKE MY DOOR!!! It's located in the door cup holder😠😠😠😠 otherwise good video
@@musicmann7891 Man, are you ever right! I am working on a 2005 Volvo S80 with a driver's side window that got off track due to trying to put the window down in the recent frigid weather here in SW PA. Everything is reveresed. the window regulator, as you say, IS BEHIND the glass. One has to feed the clips in from behind and do all the work behind the glass, including putting the holder pin in the sliding block. Whoever the freaking "engineer" is who changed the orientation IS A FREAKING IDIOT. What should have been a snap, has turned into a freaking chore!
Oml thanks this the second time it happened i 3d printed the little pieces and everything seems to work i think every older volvo owner gonna be here one point or another🤣
Hello! That was an awesome demonstration! I think my passenger side window suffers from this exact "illness", so I'm seriously thinking about doing this. I know it's an old video, but I would like to ask you for the part number (OEM) of those sliders, if it's not too much trouble? Thank you! Have a nice day!
Adrian glad you found it helpful, here is a link to the part with all associated numbers: www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-window-regulator-sliding-pivot-3509416-2?RU-vid%20Product%20Link&
My attempt was a fucking nightmare but this video did make it extremely easy to get it done right. (Some arms were bent from rolling it down accidently while off the tracks, window broke on the corner but those were my fault)
Wait one minute???? The one on the 2000 S80 is flipped around. I’m working on the blind side . The channel is facing outward not inward. I can’t even see the clips once they are snapped in the channel. The regulator arms pull in when they snap in not like yours that push away from you when they snap in. Is there any videos that show this application.
I needed a couple of these.... Thought I'd get 4...."Just in case the other side needed them" Looked on the FCP Website: For the four... US$7.96...Fine, I thought.... Then I was advised the shipping cost to my country: US$45....!!! for a "Jiffy Bag" weighing, what, 2oz? ..... Unbelievable. Sorry... but I'm not paying that for postage. But, great video...much appreciated...Thank you.
Same procedure on a C30? My driver window still works, but makes a grinding noise past a certain point, thinking of trying this out to see if it fixes the issue.
The passenger side front window came off the tracks (dropped down at the front and leaning outward). Is it simply a matter of following the disassembly instructions on the video and putting it back on the track, or should I expect to need certain parts and pre-order them (in which case, what might be the parts needed?)
Hey so What kind of grease Should i use? You seemed to think the other job was a bit messy. What grease should be used i have multi purpose black grease. Can i use it?
Hi Taurian: Yes, I would guess so....mine has just come off the tracks completely and the glass is at the bottom of the door! I'm suspecting both blocks have failed as it was not shutting completely and appeared slightly tilted for the last week....as usual, I put off checking it out as the wife needed the car every day...now it's a panic job. DOH!
Last time I pulled off the door panel I didn't notice this, I'm just wondering if it can be the cause of my door rattle, as even after adding lots of sound deadening, it appears that the window regulator itself is producing the rattle.
If your window doesn’t roll down at all no matter what switch you press, does that mean it’s because of these blocks or does it mean something else? If it’s because of the blocks how do I get the window down enough to see the blocks?
Just wish this was as Easy on an s80 then it is on this s60. On tbe s80 the window sliding channels are facing the other way (towards the outside of the door) so an easy job turns into a bastard of a job xd
Thanks a lot for the video. Will I need a new set of the eight plastic pins that hold the door cover into place, or will they still hold even after pressing through them to take the cover off?
I've seen in another vid that the push pins holding the main panel are not reusable in 2005 and up models. So in my case with my 2006 S60 i can't use them/put them back in once i take them out..
Question for you guys over at FCP on this topic - I've long had an issue where the windows seem to bind about halfway up, tripping the anti-pinch sensor (and yes, all windows initialized in VIDA, etc), we did try replacing the blocks as you've done here, but it still trips the anti-pinch half way up and you can hear the window struggling. What would you look at next, window track seals/pads?
So I made sure that the pieces I bought were the right ones. But as I'm replacing them now, I can't seem to get the click when putting the new one in. And it's not secured at all. Any possible reasons why?
You don't need to remove all the electrical connections and only the top part of the panel needs to be open for access. It's an easy job. The parts costs me $10.
Pretty straightforward, but a tad more difficult if you have an S80. The slider rail is reversed, which makes it a tad cumbersome. See my blog post here: www.ducked.nl/blog-entries/volvo-s80-2-4t-replacing-window-sliders/
I already try replace the blocks, the window would go you a couple of times then of track again. I spend 3 hours figuring it out. How do I fix this problem?
This is what’s happening to my passenger door window but I haven’t replaced the clips, yet. I was thinking the clips may be the culprit causing the window to roll down but I guess not.
Possibly needs calibrating. There is a video on how to do that. No dismantling involved. Just a sequence of key on....fuse removal...wait 1or 2 minutes. Replace fuse....etc.... But see the video for the full correct sequence. Good Luck.
I have a 1998 V70 which has the circular sliding blocks. I have removed the driver's door panel and can get to the rear block, but I do not see how to get to the front block. Do I need to remove the metal panel that holds the windows motor?
Hi Richard, the 98 V70 is a bit different from this video, you may need to remove the metal panel that holds the window regulator to access the front block.
@@fcpeuro I removed the 8 bolts that hold the plate to the door but the metal plate doesn't come off. The regulator motor is held on from the other side. Is there a trick to getting the plate off?
The driver side window on my v70r it's about an inch from closing in auto mode and then rolls all the way back down. Rolls up fine in manual mode. Have you heard of this happening before?
I would check the weather stripping and channels to see if there's anything blocking the window from going all the way up. If an obstruction is detected the window will not roll up fully to prevent damage.
My v70 has the same problem. The window on the driver's side goes up to halfway up to steps 2 and 1, then immediately rolls back down completely. Only when it has reached the bottom can I do it manually again completely. When I open the window to 40% everything works great but as soon as I have the window over 50% down and try to close it automatically or manually, it automatically shuts down completely. Is there something defective or needs to be recalibrated via vida software? Thanks for the answer.
So much harder on the older models my 2006 S80 everything inside the door is backwards so you have to do it blind you might as well forget about replacing the front one and there's an extra T25 in the upper door cup.
Tallbike ya I'm doing this job now because my window fell. It's 40 degrees and raining at 1230am I'm Philadelphia Pa lol. I can't believe they left out the extra T25 screw I ALMOST BROKE MY DOOR!!!😠😠😠😠
