Good content! Someone needs to invest in a cordless impact gun to save themselves from hammering on wrenches and ratchets! Plus, not only do they save your hands from getting hurt or being sore after smacking things repetitively (believe me, I've hurt my hands and wrists doing this more times than I care to remember), but they also cut disassembly and reassembly time down immensely, and actually save energy. Less effort spent repeatedly cranking wrenches and ratchets allows you to work longer without calling it a day from arm/wrist fatigue... If you already have one, use it! For smaller fasteners (about 10mm and under), you can usually get away with just an impact driver (smaller & lighter, fits in tighter places, typically used for hex-drive bits, but many manufacturers have a dual-drive 3/8" + hex drive system). Very handy for the lighter jobs where you aren't touching large fasteners that are very tight. A good example of this is the intake manifold Allen / hex cap screws and the fuel rail bolts. Zing them off in no time! Also, a minor but important side-note, you should have rags stuffed into the intake runners or a few layers of painters tape over them as soon as you remove the upper intake to keep things from falling into them while you're wrenching and removing bolts on the top... Regardless if you plan on removing the heads as part of whatever work you're doing, it's more about it being a good habit of doing so you will never finish working on an engine, only to turn the key the first time and hear an ungodly noise coming from within one of the cylinders from a bolt, nut, or other object that inadvertently fell in without you noticing. Then your minor repair that you thought you'd just finished turns into a major overhaul or complete replacement of expensive parts like pistons, valves, heads, etc. Better safe than sorry! I've done a bunch of work with the engine still in mine (timing and valve cover seals, alternator, p/s pump rebulld, etc), but I'm planning on pulling the engine soon to do a few more things it desperately needs (it's tired at 272k KMs because the previous owners neglected it). I'll be tearing it down completely at that time for a rebuild/refresh/reinforcement. It has very mild rod knock, so the big-end bearings will be replaced for sure. Mains probably as well, if I decide to get into it that far. I also suspect the balance shaft bearings are in need of replacement, and I'll be refreshing all the timing components and the oil pump while I'm in there as well as all the seals, etc. The trans will be getting a valve body rebuild as well as the TransGo shift improvement kit (it's somewhat lazy between some gears, and has the TC shudder from the TCC lockup solenoid/piston being worn), and I'm also currently exploring options from Sonnax and others for beefier internal trans parts to hold more power and stand up to more abuse in the future. I've flashed the D5T5/VDASH Stage 1 tune (not too confident about their claimed power/torque increase being accurate, frankly), and I fabricated a full 3" custom stainless exhaust (see my channel for video of the exhaust), among a slew of other upgrades. Lowered (Eibach Pro-kit + Koni dampers), poly bushings, S60R Brembo brakes, etc, etc, etc. The drivetrain is the weak point now, and the engine isn't as tight as it once was (you can hear the rod knock in the exhaust video, right after the idle settles after the cold start). I really appreciate the effort of you uploading all these videos! I haven't gotten to the rest yet, but I'm binge watching them all now ;) I'm sure I'll come back and reference them again later when I find myself in the same situation. VIDA helps for some things, but it's far from perfect as I'm sure you're aware.. Cheers from Canada :)
Thanks for watching, I’ll come back with a longer answer later, but great tips and ideas, hopefully the one’s interested in this will read it all, it’s very helpful info.
У меня на этом моторе идёт стук но только на холостых оборотах (на холодном пуске звук чють громче)на пробеге 300000 заменили подшипники балансирного вала,а на 330000начался этот стук .Где только не был никто не может определить, что может стучать?
@user-uj5hf3ft4i Unfortunately its very difficult to know what it could be without being close to the engine and listen for yourself. Hope you find out what it is.
Great videos! Thank you very much!!! I am replacing my valve cover gaskets on my 2006 XC90 V8 and I learned so much more on how to properly dissemble the intake manifolds thanks to you. It’s a pleasure watching you work - mad skills!
Awesome video, please don't forget to post the second video. I also have a question, I have an s80 V8, my transmission started to slip, can I remove the tranny without have to remove the engine?
Thanks, it should absolutely be possible to pull only the transmission, but I guess it would be easier to take it all out, depending on the tools you are equipped with.
I had a Transmission failure in mine.... The shop removed the box and repaired it ....leaving the engine in situ.....But then the rear wheel drive-shaft center-bearing failed. I suspect because they did not protect the rubber mounted bearing and left the weight of the prop shaft .... (Shrugs shoulders...) and that finished off the rubber mount...??? Then... a few weeks later...a deeply inaccessible water hose failed...... Unsupported Engine? Again? I bought the said failed bearing/support...... About GBP 120 plus shipping. (from the UK) Even though I double & triple checked that the bearing sold to me on line was compatible: It was not! Apparently..... Only on some years can the prop shaft be split to replace the centre bearing/support...as one would expect....(Thank you Volvo.....? How daft was that!) The Drive shaft centre bearing to the rear wheels is not replaceable on all years.... On mine...you have to replace the complete shaft..... US$2,000 to buy + shipping and taxes? Plus labour..... Sod it.... I don't need 4WD.... I removed the prop shaft.... It drove fine..... Never noticed the difference. (I'm in a temperate zone....no snow... no ice.... so, WTF?) Now.... the alternator is not charging.... again...is this due to them removing the box and causing other problems...... ??? Like the prop shaft bearing Rubber bushing? The alternator removal on these Xc90 V8's is a nightmare..... Involves the removal of all suspension & drive shaft on the RHD side... and then just fighting to get the Alt out. (There are videos on here.... it's a freaking nightmare.....) I have started it.... but I am 70 years old and not in good shape, TBH, but I will say this everyone out there: These Xc90's with the V8 Yamaha Engine are just so beautiful to drive...... A sheer driving pleasure...... Just wish I'd bought mine when I was younger! I relived my youth with its performance..... on quiet safe roads it is an absolute joy to drive. I'd have another in a flash.... Brilliantly built...sheer quality.... But the used Volvo Xc90 V8 needs an owner with a deep wallet, a decent dry warm garage and a LOT of DIY skill! And I say that as guy who has worked on cars & motorbikes since I was around 12...... and in the engine rooms of many ships (Not "boats"). I have my beloved Volvo in bits.... and it's breaking my heart! Anyone want to help out? Free Room & Board.... Cheers.... Take care out there.
