VTEC Repair P2647 Or 2646 (Pressure Circuit Voltage High Or Low) 

Anybody who spends 30+ minutes on a very informational video like this. Deserves a like & subscription. Bonus points for the test drive footage afterwards!

I had given up. Was about to put the old solenoid back on and take it to a mechanic. You explained to not fix anything, just replace the whole part, so I did! Issue is resolved, running like a champ, again. 367,000 miles!!! Thank yo!

Writing this in the hope that it helps someone that is dealing with this issue. 2007 Accord 2.4L. Oil changes were not done on a regular basis. Code P2646 showing only. Car experienced the ‘bucking/stuttering’ past 2500 or 3000rpms, fine below that. The first thing I did was check the oil. It was low so I added a quart. The issue did not resolve. Went and got the VTEC solenoid assembly. I changed that out and the car ran fine for about 15 minutes but then the code came back on and the issue started again. Removed the assembly and saw the screen was full of gunk. Cleaned the screen off and took the car back out. Ran fine for 15 minutes and then the code kicked on. I then changed the oil and filter and also removed the assembly again and it was full of gunk. Cleaned it off again. The car ran fine for about 15 minutes again the code came on and the car experienced the same issues. Took the assembly off again and the screen was full of gunk. Cleaned it off and put it back on clean. After this last time the car has been running fine. No code. No issues. If you know oil changes were not done on a regular basis then it’s safe to assume the engine is full of crap that will clog the assembly. The first thing you should do is flush out the engine to remove all the contaminants. Change the oil, and filter and clean the screen. If the issue happens and the screen is clean when you remove it then the assembly could be bad. If the assembly is new and the screen is clean when you remove it then it could be the harness. If the harness is new, the assembly is new, and the screen is clean then it could be the oil pressure switch or the oil pressure sensor. Hope this helps!

Wow. You are EXTREMELY good at explaining things in ways other mechanics think are irrelevant. Its the extra little things like explaining that more oil and cleaning the screen can "possibly " fix the issue as with other mechanics they'd just get straight to it. You're helping a lot of people man. Appreciate your thoroughness, Dont lose that character trait its a damn good one.

Thanks Jim my son and I are able to fixed his car, because of your outstanding tutorials skills thank you so much.

Thanks so much Jim. I had the P2647 error code, the 3 lights and bucking on my 2005 CRV. I had it into the Honda dealer twice and they wanted to replace a ton of parts to try and find the problem. I ordered the replacement part you recommended and it solved the problem.

my check engine light came on, car done as you said, started jerking at 27-2800rpm.. Pulled the code, hit up youtube, watched your video, put the whole assembly in, and shes good to go.. Thank you

thank you very, very much for this video! i am very car illiterate and i was able to figure it out with your help. you’re very talented and i appreciate you sharing your knowledge for everyone! you saved me a lot of money!!

The three 10MM bolts are a bear to loosen and they strip easy. I used a grinder to remove the lip off a deep 10 MM socket so all of the bolt head is gripped. Helps alot. On one bolt the prior mechanic stripped it a little bit I had to use a piece of t-shirt to make it even more snug. They came out easy after doing all that. It can be done.

2:39 that advice shows me he is a good mechanic. I'm sure some of these mechanics would just add a quart of oil and charge for the price of a new solenoid. Thanks for posting this sir.

This fixed my problem that I have been dealing with for over a year. Awesome video, my clips broke and will have to get them from Honda I guess. BTW my problem was almost the same but the power would choke at about 2800 rpms no matter how fast you were going. Also it did not happen all the time. But now seems to be fixed. Thanks for the video.

For anyone that has had to replace this piece more than twice I’d suggest to clean the male and female ends with electronic spray. One of my female ends has a broken latch which prevents it from clicking closed. I’ve replaced the solenoid 4 times with this previous time being the genuine Honda part. I just couldn’t believe that the Honda part broke so I searched high and low and found this solution.

Well I went ahead and gave her the good ol love tap with a wrench and she loved that, engine light hasn't came on yet and runs perfect now, thank you sir

This is an awesome video, very well documented and explained for the DIYer. Thanks Jimmy

more often than not, it's moisture in the connectors. when you open the hood wet on the element, water runs right into them.

Hey Mr. Jim watched your video, on vtec solenoid it was a little bit of a bear because you can't see it well. But got it done. That part is on nationwide back order. No dealer in my area had the part. I called the dealer in Atlanta where i bought the car 16 years ago and they had it.I also replaced my valve cover gasket and plug flute grommets. Thanks for all you do.

If you’re working on a Honda Element, you can also use the opening in the wheel well to reach the bolts.

It's not always the VTEC Solenoid assembly. Sometimes it's the connector TO the assembly. The rubber grommet on the connection can get aged and susceptible to moisture, creating the very same scenario - especially and almost exclusively in wet weather.

I only get the bucking in 55-60mph...... I'm wondering if any noise would be associated with this issue....... I'm having this p2647 issue and I'm also hearing this weird humming noise almost like a metallic kazoo, never heard anything like it. Again at the 55-60 mph. Thanks for this video I really appreciate the detail!!

What about the oil screen under the tensioner? If you don't do them both, the problem will likely repeat itself in a couple months.

you’re a freaking lifesaver jim thank you so much!!

I enjoyed the story behind this event during the live stream and now to see the fix made my day. And yours too I'm sure. :)

IMPORTANT! Don't buy Aftermarket VTEC Solenoid they are made in China with inferior parts. The Aftermarket Solenoid weights 400grams and the Honda original part Made in Japan weights 520grams. I have found the oil pressure switch in the Aftermarket part leaks oil and shorts out the wiring. The Aftermarket is cheap but won't last. Better off buying Honda OEM.

Thanks so much for this video. Just finished installing the new vvt spool valve assembly in my 2009 CRV. I used a mirror to see what I was doing.

Jim you're an Excellent mechanic! Great videos.

9 out of ten I fixed at dealership only needed vtec screens replaced, caused they were clogged, due to oil not being changed on time, so recap replace vtec screens then change oil and filter first, 9 times out of 10 that fixed rocker arm code p2646 that caused the bucking. Also, vtec, will not engage with low oil pressure, or if your speedometer isn't working. Good luck... always check easiest cheapest stuff first unless you got money to waste, and the original honda solenoids are built well unlike the aftermarket stuff.

Very informative, thorough explanation of each step. Much appreciated.

Im not sure what happened but I changed the Main Relay in my 2008 Honda Accord and the 2647 trouble code went away.

On my 07 TSX these bolts were the toughest things to get loose. I only had to replace my gasket because it was leaking. One of the screws actually had some white residue on it when I took it out. I hope it wasn't threadlocker. I was able to best come in from the bottom of the car. Also not sure on this CRV is the oil pressure switch is located below the solenoid but need to be careful. I initially came at it the way you did and the wire came loose off of the pressure switch below the solenoid. Had to fix that after the repair.

My code is a P2647 a rocker arm actuator stuck on bank 1. The did do the repair unfortunately due to the cold I have no place to do the repair it was fine for five days then it did it again tonight. The car would jerk on acceleration. The mechanic replace the oil sending unit I am just wondering if he replaced the entire Vtec solenoid assembly. I think he tried to just replace the switch that's why it was as cheap as it was. I would have rather him replace the entire unit for a little bit more. The oil level is perfect.The oil was changed less than 300 miles ago. Thanks for the info.👍

Great video Did they ever finish cutting down that tree

Thank you! This video helped me figure out what was wrong with my son's 2007 Honda Pilot

@jimthecarguy thanks for both of these videos on this topic. I recently replaced my solenoid due to an oil leak that I couldn't track down. I did find it after I had replaced the solenoid. I drove the vehicle about 10miles at speed and had no issues. I went to work today and got about 15 miles out from home, then I have all the lights come on and experienced the same symptoms at about 2600rpm. What else should I be checking? Where did I go wrong? I have not had a chance to check the check engine code yet, but I can only assume that it's similar to these codes. Thanks again for the great video.

I flushed mine good with the Valvoline engine flush, replaced oil with full synthetic and the problem is gone. This is a good reason to keep your oil changed. Also there is an oiler for the timing chain that clogs if you don't keep it changed.

I have a 2006 Pilot 3.47L V6 which also has the P1647 code, as you are working on a 2.5L (I didn't realise until I almost pulled out a "coil". Where is the Valve Assembly on my vehicle and do I only have one or is there another? I also have ECU failures: 83 - PGM-FI Relation Failure, 86 - Global CAN Comm failure and 112-1 - Internal power source of ECU failure. I thought I was getting a great deal on this used Pilot ($ 1K.) but it seems to be adding up quickly. Thank you, Your videos were recommended to me by a friend at work who stated "the man knows what he is doing"

Another great video! I’ve seen the screen filter of VTEC solenoids with lots of debris/dirt. If the oil and filter are regularly changed every 5000 miles, what else could causing the dirt/debris?

Other videos exist that explain the diag, actually cleaning the strainer and unit and testing before purchasing a replacement and show the actual removal and installation much better. In this one the camera angles are such that you can’t really see what’s happening.

Thank you for sharing Mr. masters Mech...very informative Sir. I'm having the same problem with a used car I recently purchased for my son, it's a standard gearbox but same issue when I bring it up to 3 to 4 thousand RPM it struggles hope this will fixed my problem...

Thanks for the instructions, Jim. I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX, K24A4... Car seems to move fine but has a slight noticeable lag before VTEC kicks in. There is no check engine light, but there is significant oil leak that increases as the RPM increases. The oil seems to be seeping out from underneath the oil pressure switch and solenoid. Typically, oil soils the oil filter and the steering rack all the way beneath the assembly. I usually have to add up to one quart of oil per week in order to keep oil level within recommended limits. I recently changed the gasket between the assembly and the engine block. There is presently no leak at that point. Should I replace the oil pressure sensor and the solenoid? OR I should replace the entire assembly?

I have been getting the 2646 error code and went thru two VTEC solenoids made by Dorman. It works fine for a few miles then all of a sudden I get the bucking bronco at 2800 rpms. Any suggestions?

Tight fit but excellent work and you know going over the speed limit is mandatory.

You make the best Mechanic videos thank you so much

I change this part on my 2002 honda crv but it did not fix it. Can I do anything else.

What is the name for the valvule ?

i have changed the solenoid(original honda patrts) and the p2646 come out again very soon....my car is odyssey rb1 (japan) with k24A engine, any idea?

You literally perfectly described my problem

I replaced mine and a week later the same code popped up any suggestions?

This was very good. Not to much talking.. Got right into it..

I just switched out a new vtec solenoid in my 05 Honda Element and I still have the p2627 code and still jerks..I replaced it with OEM parts..not sure what to do next

Thank you for the video. This exactly describes what's going on with my 2007 Honda Element. I'm ordering a new Valve Spool Assembly replacement. Hopefully, it runs effeciently after the check list

I have had this problem with my Element for 3 years, I have changed that valve 2 times sensor 2 times, I didn't know you would get that code with low oil. Thanks for that. But now I'm wondering will you get that code when you have a bad oil leak, even if you fill the oil up to to the right level???? With that in mind should all oil leaks be fixed first. I have spent so much money and still have the same problem. 😢

So, we have this problem on our 2005 crv. We’ve done all these steps, replaced the assembly, oil changes, check levels. But it is still throwing this code when the car gets hot. We have exhausted our knowledge which was limited based off of what we could find out youtube. What should our next step be if after doing all this, the car continues to throw the code and shudder around 3,000 rpms after the car has warmed up. Also this car was a recent purchase and at the time didn’t have any lights on. Thanks in advance

Usually the screen is just clogged. Save your money clean the screen or buy a new one. New screen includes gasket so that's the best option. 8 dollar part from Honda dealer. Don't waste your time and money on aftermarket!

Thank you Should many consider an oil flush pre or post this replacement if so details???

Great video but the ACTUAL fix to the p02646 and p2647 is to flush the engine multiple times because these 2.4 motors get the oil passages clogged up and that is what causes oil to push through the oil pressure switch causing the codes. Replacing the solenoid will only temporarily fix the problem but light WILL come back on. Flush the motor atleast twice and problem is fixed

I would be muchly appreciated if someone could explain to me what to do next if you've already done everything in this video I get approximately 45 minutes of driving before my oil switch or oil transducer that's on this piece is always on the on position even when VTEC kicks in the oil switch still says on I have a Snap-On $2,000 reader that I've used that's my friends so I can monitor both in real time

Jim, a great video BUT if you remove the manifold heatshield you would have a lot of space to work with.....

Jim, I just bought an Element about a month ago. Im having some random bucking or kind of. I just removed the spool valve look to be an original one and look relative new. The gasket was perfect with no leaks and the filter was 100% clean. Maybe is the Transmission selenoids?

SO I did all of that Works great until the engine gets good and warm. (About 15-20min of driving) the Vtec shuts down and 2646 pops up. Engine has high mileage (298K mi) well taken care of. very clean inside. Good compression. Doesn't burn any oil to speak of. any suggestions? My guess is that the oil pump may be worn enough that when the oil thins out ant operating temp there is just not quite enough pressure to trip the switch. The one thing I have not replaced is the Vtec oil valve below the cams. I did clean that as well as the front screen when I did the head gasket a while back.

Put second solenoid, cleaned the screen. Still have the problem. None mention about VSA light. Was reading about oil change. Didn't have the problem before it. I put castrol magnatec 5w20. Is it oil, or just bad luck on eBay solenoid? What should I do next. Help pls.

GREAT VIDEO YOU NEED THAT 76 DEGREES TO BE 100 PLUS WITH 92% HUMIDITY

I know this is an older video. Maybe you can help. I just replaced this and the screen up front. Changed oil and it’s still in limp mode plus a double thunk sound then shuts off. Thoughts?

I have the same code but my car hasn’t buckled in the highway but I do have a rattle noise. List of codes P0497, P0496, P0456, P2647, P0455, P0497. Should I just get rid of the car? It’s a 2006 Honda accord V6.

Hello, I have a 2012 MDX that does not pass smog! No check engine light but the guy at the shop said it have permanent code p2646 and it won't pass until that's gone! I have then replaced the oil and filter and I've also taken the VVT solenoid off and replace the oil pressure switch and the gasket! I have an obd scanner and the code still comes on after I did all that but the check engine light has never came on! Any idea what's going on? Car runs perfectly fine!

Where do you recommend to get replacement part from

How do you fit the camera back there? It's a tight space and I didn't even have a camera. I got the job done though. You always make quality videos.

my problem is, I will clean the screen then after driving it for several days it gets clogged again. My car will tell me this by losing rpms and chugging along the road. Can you help me with this? any thoughts as to why

I meant no codes for the vtec or transmission should I still check vtec solenoid?

I have the same problem with a 6 cylinder 2008 Honda accord, I have no problem with the oil, I change it every three thousand miles. I only changed the gaskets due to leakage and now I have the code p3497, which I cannot remove even with my scanner when it removed it comes back again; the problem is intermittent, could there be some way to be able to check the wiring before changing the whole part?So the low and high voltage problem are related with all the mechanical part of the valve spool? Would you have an explanation for the voltage problem please? Please, I would appreciate some help on this matter. Thanks for your time. Best regards. When this began to happen, I removed the entire piece, I did an almost surgical cleaning of everything thinking that it could be dirty or with something stuck but even so the problem persists. Thank you again.

Hey Jim, so I actually had the entire solenoid replaced, brand new, less than a month ago. But they didn't replace the oil pressure switch, now I have P2647, but you say not to replace just the switch. Any advice? There's no way that screen in the solenoid could be clogged I think, it's brand new...

Initial problem as leaving gas station red oil can came on. Oil pressure light. Upon getting it home I put my scanner on it and up came this P2649, but that is not my issue anymore it still throws code, vut I have the sounds of non engaging vtec etc. Everything is new on car as far as all that goes. I am doing everything I can to not have to drop pan and oil out again 09 accord 2.4L K24z3 motor i-vtec. Still oil pressure light and sounds like no oil as the usual meta on metal sounds so I adverted immediately. I have done everything possible and I mean all necessarry tests to troubleshoot any and all connections, switches, selenoids, etc. Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Our 2006 Honda Element jerks in 1st or 2nd gear then fine in higher gears . Doesn’t do it all the time mostly when turning or quick take off ? But no codes or lights are on ?

Would the screen cause the vehicle to go into limp mode?

I have these exact symptoms. 2004 MDX. Checked resistance of the pressure switch and solenoid, both good with low non-zero resistance (indicating the coil is probably good). Removed the VTEC valve assembly and found the gasket screen strainer to be 90% clogged with crud. Installed new one, same symptoms. Perhaps oil-related?... This didn't start until after I changed the oil (but not immediately after)... While I did just change the oil recently, I used 10W-30 which is heavier than the recommended 5w-20 (with the thought that at 260K miles it could benefit from slightly heavier), perhaps the system doesn't function well with heavier oil? I'm going to poke around some other ideas, but I might end up changing the oil again, back to 5W-30. (I've used Amsoil since I got the vehicle, at 124K miles.)

I had an oil leak after replacement and also getting a buck and code. Do you know the torque specs? Thanks

I’m getting a p2647 code on my 04 Honda Civic but my engine is not equipped with a vtec solenoid. The code is reading a stick rocker arm. Any ideas on this?

i changed my solenoid to a brand new part, 1 week later the check engine light at P2647 code came back.. oil and oil filter already changed and brand new.. any advice??

Hey. Great instructional video. I’ve don’t many of these on accords. But your video is very nice. Do you need a stepson? Lol

I have a toyota avensis 1.8 vvti 2015, sometimes I get error P2647 A Rocker Arm Actuator System - Stuck On (Bank 1). it only appears shortly after I leave with her

Same code but my car doesn’t stay idling it just dies out after about 15 seconds of struggling to idle but when gas is added it revs up just fine but below a certain rpm it won’t idle and die

Just change my vtech in my 2001 Honda Accord my pressure solenoid won’t click for some reason but it’s on just not hearing the click Also once I haven’t put oil even tho I change it I’ll still get that bucking feeling?

What do I order to get the whole assembly with switch and solenoid? I’ve got an ‘07 odyssey doing this but on RockAuto, I can only find the switch, screen, or solenoid all separately. Not sure what to look for to get the complete kit. Any help, internet?

gonna try this right now on my element. Thanks a ton.

I got this code on my 2006 civic lx, and my oil light came on, then engine started ticking. Checked oil before my trip and right as I saw my engine light come on. Sounded fine at idle so I thought the oil pressure light might have been faulty because it wasn’t solid or consistent, just random for different lengths of time. But now I have that knock. Any idea if I’m swapping an engine? Lol

I had the whole VVT assembly replaced on my 2006 Element. I drove 530 miles and it needed replaced again. Then, it just started bucking again at 3k RPMs today after putting 860 miles on the second VVT assembly. I'm not sure what needs to be done? But, it's now been in the shop 5 times and isn't fixed. It's very frustrating to say the least. Any suggestions from your experience? (UPDATE ON MY COMMENT) We are pretty certain that the plug that attaches to the censor had bad seals. We put together that the problem started happening on or after rainy days. The plug has been replaced. So, we shall see.

any advice for doing this on a K20 instead of a K24 with a way smaller engine bay?

Any experience with P2649 on the same engine? If so do you recall if a new spool valve fixed the issue?

Man I really need to talk to you, I replaced the whole thing, still not fixed. Before replacing code 2646 stuck open after replacing code2647 stuck closed I need help

For some reason I unplugged the rock arm oil pressure sensor and I star the car the engine light is on.....and I stop the engine,, plug the rock arm oil pressure sensor back ....I star the car again the engine light is off but code p2646 still at scan tool everytime when I scan the vehicle,,,,please teach me if you know ,,,,,what should I do for next step....thank you....

Could the oil pump being pushed to oil cavitation cause this issue? i have my car tuned to a higher RPM than factory (8900 over 8300) and suspect so.

Very good video. Good explanation and visual presentation

Hi Jim! What's the part number of the entire assembly? I have the pressure switch but I minus well replace the entire thing!

Awesome Job on this part replacement.

My 2010 Honda Odyssey ex l start up run for 10 seconds and cuts off, I wash the motor with it running and started miss after that and stop, #7 fuse which is a 11am- fuse keep blowing

I have a p2646 but I have no bucking? Would it just be replacing the oil filter?

Worked like a charm. Thanks

What hapen if you change all that stil get check engine

Nice video .good commentary. When you can afford more lighting that would help your videos.

Not yet... Do you have a solution for me?

I have an oil leak on passenger side rear of my 2005 Honda Accord 2.4 do you think it can be my vtec?