here's one for you to think about. if it's possible to get the valve/adj screw alignment correct with shims, then it should be possible to get the alignment right with shorter push rods. the shorter push rods will be lighter and make the valve train marginally more efficient. i thought that .090 (2.5 mm or so) was a large enough shim stack that i would have chopped the push rods and used shims for fine tuning. nothing wrong with what you've done, just throwing the idea out there. i've been kind of binge watching your video backlog over the last week. i've enjoyed following along. keep em coming.
Very astute observation, and one I agree with. All that happened is, in that moment, we did not have stuff for shortening pushrods, but we did have shims. I will have to address that with the 1800 I’m building (if the heads ever come in). I might experiment with cutting down some chromoly PR’ since I’ve never used them…not sure yet. Thanks for the support and comments!
Our default build size for customers who want a stock or near stock Type1 motor is the 1680cc with the thick wall 88's. These are a superior barrel kit to the 1641cc and more so if to be used in a bus where elevated temps are going to be a sure thing. I think you've heard it before that big valve heads are overkill for this barrel diameter if it's a street motor. A cam with stock valve sizes usually are plenty of valve for that size motor in street application. It should still be a fun motor in a light weight bug. Great explanations through out your vids and newbies will be learning a lot from these vids too :)
The aircooled art was (and still is) taught me via RU-vid (and my buddy VW Jim). I am grateful for all those who have put videos out. We feel that engine performs well in higher rpm, but needs some “massaging” to drive around town. I’m wondering if a 74 stroker crank is gonna fix that for a possible 1800 Bus engine in the future. Thanks for your confirmation on how great the 88’s are. We’re loving them!
Good info on the fan: Thought I knew it all, but you learn something new every day! If I ever convert my sp to Doghouse I'll give you a prayer of thanks (oUo)
Thick wall 88mm, were they the k case or the I believe called the m case. I built a 1680 back in the late 70's when putting myself through school and driving 100+ miles a day between work/school/home. I was able to cruise 75-80 giving it just a small amount of pedal. Before I built it I was constantly flat footing that gas pedal wherever I went. Gas mileage was even a little better and driving that bug became enjoyable.
The “M.” Yea sir 1680 is way fun and in my opinion safer in todays traffic. 1800 even better. We just got back from a good trip with that 1679 and my 1800, both good interstate runners. You’re right, makes it enjoyable 😎
@@bomberobus Exactly, I did a 1800 also that had a much milder cam in it and had better drivability. The 1680 needed its throat cleared now and then or wouldn't stay running during red lights. 1800 just had a hot street cam. Both cars would do a full 360⁰ on the speedo and stop at the stopper at 0mph LOL 😆
Hello great content man yall made it were I could under stand what yall were doing ima shade tree mechanic and I've decided I want a 70 to 74 bug was thinking 150 hp but now tht I've been watching yall I'm good for maybe 100.hp not a big build but enough to get up hills and hey every day driving wish yall was in n.c. whould love for yall to build my motor...thanks for your imfo keep doing what yall do luv it big fan now for sure..be blessed...
Thanks for the props. Yup, if you’re gonna leave the stock crank then the 1679 is fun. If you’re going to open the case then 1800 with 74 stroke is a bit more fun and you don’t have clearance issues with the crank. Of course we still want more power, but these are realistic reliable dailies. Plus if you throw in a cam and some dual 40’s it’s on! But I’d build around the 88 thick walls because we don’t have machine shops, and then stroke it as big as you feel comfortable…maybe 1849cc?
True true! They have been considered, and a set has been purchased to install on that the engine. However, I already have some on the 1800 I just built…way better peace of mind.
I feel that if the modern sealants we use today we’re available back then, the paper gasket wouldn’t have been what they used. The problem with the sealant use today seems to be OVER APPLICATION of it, allowing possible engine problems if a piece breaks off and gets inside the engine.
@@bomberobus Thanks! That makes a bunch of sense. I noticed that all the folks on YT don't use the gasket, but back in the early 70's when I was a mechanic we always used the paper gasket and no sealant. Permatex was of course around but we all hated it because it was a bitch to get off things when you took them apart and it smelled terrible. I think I am going to put a tiny bit of sealant on both sides of the gasket and use them. Thanks again for all the great RU-vids and fast responses. I subscribed.
Just experimenting. That engine belongs to my brother. At that time I had an electronic 009 on mine, so he tried the electronic SVDA. Gotta admit, my 009 went to crap, and his SVDA runs like a champ…still to this day.
@@bomberobus good video and thx for the explanation.. I did some upgrades on mine which included the 009.. I didn't have the bug long enough to see the 009 decline.. That was back in the late 70's - early 80's.. They have lots of better distributors today.. Well thx for bringing us along on your adventures.. take care my friend...
@@garyjones2582 thank you sir. VW’s in the late 70’ and early 80’s…..the good times! I was a kid then, and loved VW’s, but never got my hands on one until about 7 years ago. I have much more to learn, so thanks for the comments and checking it out.
Any time you run a higher lift cam you should use solid shafts. Eventually the clips will break under strain and the rocker will slide over and hit the keeper. Been there done that. Nice video though.
I bet that made a racket! She’ll get the rocker shafts (and more) as funds allow. Luckily I already have a nice set from CB Performance in hand for the 1800 build…but the heads are taking forever to get here.
