VW A4: ALH TDI Brake booster removal 

Thank you for sharing your DIY experience and thank you for watching!

Thank you and thank you for watching!

Should not go to the floor when running... anything more than 1/2 to 3/4, I would suspect that something is not right. I'm talking regular / moderate pressure applied. I'll check the next one I have my hands on... just to be sure I'm mistaken.

@@EXOVCDS That would be greatly appreciated thnx

Where there's a will... there's a way. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you for your continued support! =)

Garth Goldberg I tend to remove more than I need to... I don't always consult the service manual. All the valving should be / stay closed / no air gets into the ABS (IIRC)... just a bleeding of the lines should be enough.

*****

Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!

Thank you and thank you for watching!

Thank you for sharing and thank you for watching!

@@EXOVCDS refreshing to find a fix thats for sure, He brings rust free stuff up from the southern US like the power steering hoses Rack lines for Mk4 and mentioned A4' rack lines and Routans are non procurable so gets those too

Good tip. I have had good luck with the tool, but will keep your suggestion in mind! Thanks!

Yes, counterclockwise to remove as can be seen in the video at 5:35 A more professional DIY switch replacement video can be seen here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xCLh3Jccaao.html

There are many ways to tackle automotive repairs... I only have time to show things the way that I do them. Thanks for the info... I'm sure that viewers will find it handy!

I didn't have the release tool for the first mk4 / A4 booster that I had to remove... I knew from the service info that it spreads the plastic retainer. Managed to use a screwdriver to spread the piece... but I remember fighting with it for quite some time. Ordered the tool that same day! All the other tool stickers you see there... were all bought because I needed them / the shop does not have them. Some were shipped over night... others I ordered because I will eventually need the tool.

Haha yeah I already tried with a screwdriver before I watched this video

I would have to check the service manual... but probably the same way with a special tool (to make it easy). You can use a screwdriver, but it is more difficult.

Pretty much the same, just less room on the Beetles.

lolus pololus Let me know how it went.

it took me two hours with brake bleeding , very easy job , one more time thank for video very help full.

Engine off... also spongy?

It can be done with a mirror and a couple of flat head screwdrivers... but yes, the tool is money well spent!

Run the engine for 30 seconds... shut it off. Pop the vacuum check valve out of the booster... do you hear a loud sucking sound as it pops out? The plastic vacuum hose could have a small crack or the booster is not allowing atmospheric air into the booster on the pedal end of the booster (difference in vacuum & atmospheric pressure is what provides assist). Could also be a bad booster.

@@EXOVCDS thanks for the info. i replaced the booster the other day. what a bitch it was putting it back in. lol.

Time to go make another "custom vw tool" goddammit...

The service manual lists all tools required... $35USD will get you as many service manuals as you need (that you can download in a 24hr period) in pdf form. erwin.vw.com/erwin/

The only two tools I need are my two bare hands to rip shitty volkswagens apart

Someday... I hope to be as good as you. You should post some videos on your channel, so that I can send everyone to your channel!

@@EXOVCDS I don't want to make videos about removing brake boosters in VW/Audi, it's mostly a huge pain in the ass, therefore I watched your video so that we suffer together ;)

Just yank that shit really quick

Whatever works.

Gracias por ver

Follow it from the booster to the vacuum pump. It either popped out of the booster or the plastic pipe separated somewhere.

@@EXOVCDS Ok, thank you! I did lower the engine quite a lot and thinking it may have popped off…

@@EXOVCDS found it it was popped out by the brake booster. Do I just pop it back in or how does it lock in place?

@@EXOVCDS Sure enough. It popped out from the booster. Thank you! Having breaks is a beautiful thing..

The Audi tool might be different than the one for the VW A4 (4th generation of the A platform... Golf & Jetta). I'd have to check the service manual to see what tool is used / listed.

Whatever works.

Thank you for watching.

Check the booster hose, they like to crack. Also, don't delete your egr, it actually cools your combustion temps!!! O.O

Is the vacuum pump OK? Is the vacuum check valve in the vacuum tube going to the booster OK?

Engine running, stiff pedal & hissing = bad booster... most likely.

HumbleMechanic is was a Professional VW mechanic... check with him. I work at a specialty shop like your mechanic. Odds are that he knows more than I do. I'm still at work... I'll get back to you once I am at home later tonight. Post a video on your channel of the plastic piece you are talking about and what was done.... so I can see / understand better.

Thomas EXOVCDS thank you very much I'm happy you replied so soon, my car has been at a stand still for more then a month now. My parents get upset because I have to drive my brothers car all the time, and so far nothing has solved my problems, yet I still love my Vw tho.

Thank you.

We've seen two issues with boosters in the past... noisy (hissing sound) and dragging brakes (not allowing the master to return fully).

Thank you for watching!

You can do that if you want to.

I'm just wondering if that would save you from having to remove the brake sensor

@@thomaslehnart1374 I don't know what you mean.

The higher the vacuum the better... if there is sign of oil in the fitting that the vacuum hose is attached to, the pump is not sealing correctly internally and is probably the reason for not being able to supply enough vacuum at lower rpms. If the pump checks out fine, then yes, it could be a booster issue. After engine shut off, the booster should hold vacuum for several hours. If it does not, then the check valve or the booster is faulty.

@@EXOVCDS I cannot believe it has taken me 6 months to do this. I resealed the inside of the vacuum pump with a o-Ring from a brm oil filter last night. And voila brakes return instantly. Thank you for suggesting this.

+john davis Thank you for watching!

+Qaib_back_yard I think the only thing I needed to adjust was the brake light switch position.

+Thomas EXOVCDS Ok thanks!

Same Coast HL7 headlamp... a new one. The old one lasted a bit over a year. I still have to return it to see if it qualifies for warranty repair / replacement.

I NEARLY sent you my last H602W when I got the new H603W, but the wife gave to a neighbor. In any case, they are on sale right now if you get sick of dealing with alkalines, and want many more lumens with longer runtimes. www.zebralight.com/H602w-18650-XM-L2-Flood-Headlamp-Neutral-White_p_115.html

***** Cool headlamp / flashlight combination!

vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042

Post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear what is happening.

@@EXOVCDS it's now posted

Used booster? All I can suggest is to recheck your work. If the pedal didn't go to the floor before the replacement, then it shouldn't now.

@@EXOVCDS yeah used booster , I noticed the master cylinder does not seem snug against the booster and when I move it around the air leak gets louder. All nuts are secured so I’m not sure what’s going on

Also didn’t bleed the brakes yet I just wanted to test my work quick and noticed this hissing sound from pedal , would not bleeding them cause this ? I will bleed them but want to figure out the issue first

If the pushrod inside the booster is not sitting correctly inside / against the master cylinder, it will create a low brake pedal as well as possibly not allow the booster to sit flat against the master cylinder. You should only have to bleed at the master cylinder where the lines attach... but bleeding at all the wheels will insure that other trapped air can also come out. If everything is sitting correctly and all the air is out... but the hissing continues, then the used booster is faulty ( my guess).

@@EXOVCDS Commenting from my other account, actually was wrong about the hissing from the pedal, its just a loud vacuum hissing coming from the master cylinder which changes tone when i push on the cylinder. I believe i had it sitting right as I just had pushed it in with the bolts aligning but i'll try it again when i'm home from work.

I'm not sure, sorry. Is it just the pedal or are the brakes also applied / not releasing right away? Could be a problem with the brake booster or stiff brake pedal linkage.

@@EXOVCDS brakes also applied / not releasing right away i install a spring in the pedal for temporary and work but not perfect the booster has spring inside to return the pedal ? thanks for the reply

@@johntopline Is there any change if you disconnect vacuum from the booster?

Thank you for watching!

I don't know... I haven't had to replace one before. The 1.8T does have less room around the booster, so it could be true. I would have to check a service manual to find out.

'99 to mid 2003 (North America)... might have run longer in other countries.

Could not tell you... I have come across many stripped samples of each over the years. Although, usually due to the previous person working on it. With the right fitting bits they usually don't put up a fight.

Seeing a lot of newer Ford products lately that have E-Torx head and regular Torx bolts as well. Techs are getting pissy because they have to buy new tools.

StopDropandLOL It's because they use power tools for assembly at the factory. The Torx bits especially fit into the bolt heads quicker with less attention on the part of the workers. They won't strip if the right sized bit is used.

Who cares about the techs/consumer!!! What about the robots!!! #RobotLivesMatter

@@EXOVCDS Torx and Allen are a far cry better than heads like Phillip's which, by design, force the tool out of the head while applying pressure. A well fitting torx or allen tool will take a lot of torque and they stay put in the head.

The tool makes it easier... less chance of breaking something.

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Yes, it can also affect egr performance... I have a video about that.

You only need to bleed the abs unit if air got into the valve & pump circuits. Think of it like this. A long hall way with a door at the front and a door at the back... and a bunch of doors on either side of the hallway. The front door is the hydraulic line going to the abs unit. The rear door is the line going to whichever wheel. Any air that goes in the front door, will come out the back door... not affecting the abs, because those doors are closed.

Edward Sessum Stubborn one... I've seen the heat shields on some, can't recall specific year & model.

Thomas EXOVCDS but do you know what too much heat in a booster could cause for symptoms. I would assume hot enough can melt things but wouldn't heat cause expansion somewhere even though part of it is in a vacuum?

Sorry, I don't know the reason for it... could very well be because of heat. As for symptoms due to heat... I don't have an engineering degree to be able to explain what could happen, sorry.

Yes.

Justin Vancouver Most new cars no-longer come with manual transmission... I like stick shift transmissions.

oh :(

+Thomas EXOVCDS You're mean ;)

Which engine?

@@EXOVCDS it’s a 2.5 !

Is the hose going to the booster ok?

@@EXOVCDS when I change the part I was really careful! But I will double check cause honestly I didn’t use a torque wrench! They tight but not like it would with a torque wrench! But the hose seems fine ! It would be obvious if it’s damage?

Could have a small crack?

Reposition the brake light switch so that the lights go off when the pedal is not pressed. As long as the brake pedal feel firm (when pushed) and there is no "excessive" pedal free play... it should be ok. To adjust the brake pedal switch. Press the brake pedal with one hand as far as it will go. With your other hand, pull the tip of the brake light switch out as far as it will go (and let go of the brake light switch tip). Slowly release the brake pedal and let it come to rest against the brake light switch. Do not pull up on the pedal, just let it go. The stop lights should now work correctly again.

Thank you, that solved the issue!

You need a new a new brake light switch if your brake lights are always on. I had that issue on my touareg and it's easy to change

Thank you for watching!

Power steering fluid & drive belt.

Okay, but when open the hydraulic fluid tank was boiling

If you have air in the system, it will look like it is boiling. Check the level when the engine & power steering fluid are cold (the next morning). If the fluid level is LOW, add fluid. If the fluid level is OK, you might have a problem with the feed line to the pump. Is the pump making noise?

Yesterday I have little leakin on the little hose to the pump and I change the hose after that the steering wheel is hard to turn

What is the line that feeds

In the pedal? No... it should just pop out & in (probably easier with the pedal out of the cluster), I could be wrong.

Alright, just was wondering if someone trying to do it without the tool for a while with screwdrivers and all could possibly mess it up. Went to my local european specialist which was my last shot at finding out my brake dragging when its hot under the hood and they couldnt figure it out neither. :\

It's impossible for oil fumes to go / get into the booster... most likely your brake master cylinder is leaking brake fluid into the booster.

@@EXOVCDS mmm then could have been the previous master cylinder that was leaking, and the brake fluid remained there. Good thing i alaready replace the master cylinder.

Different years / generations / models may very well need a different tool. The A4 / mk4 in this video uses the tool as shown in this video. I'm not sure about your Audi A3... I'd have to see what the manual says.

@@EXOVCDS Okay, I'll take a deeper look into it. I'm have trouble finding information on doing this particular repair. Thank you very much for the quick reply!

This is the tool in this video: vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042 Service info lists this tool for your car: vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=26450042

I think is was a soft / low pedal.

At what point in the video? 2:26? That's the vacuum hose that feeds vacuum to the turbo actuator solenoid, the shut off solenoid and vacuum reservoir.

@@EXOVCDS Yeah. around 2:21 you start removing it from that plastic piece I'm attempting to describe. I recently purchased and replaced the whole vacuum tube which came with an attached check valve, but I never reattached what you are removing at 2:21

@@markwitmer5498 year, make, model, engine? This video is of a VW TDI engine... 4th generation of the A platform (A4). Audi A4 is completely different... if that what you have.

@@EXOVCDS I have a 2001 Jetta TDI (1.9)

@@markwitmer5498 ok... just wanted to be sure. Lots of people see A4 in my titles and think it's Audi related. If that small vacuum hose is not connected... I would expect turbo fault code (under boost) and engine shake when turning the engine off.

Since it is just a vacuum hose... simply remove it and install the new one. Pump the pedal before removing the hose... to vent the vacuum in the booster for easier removal (might still need a bit of effort).

Thomas EXOVCDS Thank you. My pedal always goes hard soon after I turn the engine off. Even without pumping it. My mechanic insists that it's normal but I find it really odd

No... should hold vacuum. Could be due to a crack in the plastic vacuum hose. If it's a diesel engine, make sure that the vacuum pump is producing good vacuum.

Thomas EXOVCDS Thank you, the vacuum hose has been ordered and will be replaced tomorrow. I'm hoping it'll fix it

Thomas EXOVCDS I just replaced my vacuum pump and broke the plastic nipple on the vacuum to brake booster line (that’s where I tested the vacuum on the new pump). I ordered a new line that includes the part for the broken nipple. Do I need to also order a new brake booster grommet (grommet where the line plugs into)?

Pull the wheels and have a look at the brakes.

Thomas EXOVCDS thanks for the reply, i already looked at the pads and rotors and they look good, also it seems like the noise is coming from the brake booster or master cylinder. once the car comes to a complete stop, brakes are normal again

Cesar N Weird.

Thomas EXOVCDS yea its really weird i might have to take it to a mechanic 😕 oh well thanks for the replies ☺

Yes, probably a booster issue if pedal is firm / no air is in the system.

@@EXOVCDS do u suggest oem or aftermarket? Lol. I still dont know why i keep putting money into this thing. I love driving when it wants too work properly. After i replaced my combi valve no more check engine light. Anyways appreciate the help sir.

@@DIAMONDISKEY whichever (cost) makes sense to you (how long you will keep the car). Worst case, you install a genuine part and you still have the same problem. Sometimes the only way to know that something is bad, is to replace the part.

@@EXOVCDS yeah. Well theres not much else it could be. A bled the car even the master cylinder. Only thing i didn't do was a abs bleed. But i might just order a booster from rock auto.

@@EXOVCDS thx for your help. I ordered one today. Does the mk4 gls 2.0 need the special tool?

Year, make, model, engine?

I can't help if you don't reply. =(

I am sorry, for the late answer. The car is a golf 4, 1.9 tdi ALH, year 2001. The engine is running good with power until I am reaching 120 km per h and then gets limp mode.

@@r-y-k8350 you need to check the adjustment of the turbo vane actuator rod & stop screw. Also check for excessive carbon in the intake manifold.

Thank you for the advice! But do you think that the rod should be adjusted, considering that until now there where no problems with the boost? I think that maybe the vanes are not moving correctly inside the turbo, and I can not clearly see it, only if the turbo will be cleaned manually after dissasembly. Another question from my first post regarding loosing air on brake booster , do you thing that this can have an influence for the vacuum system? There is valve with one way for the hose going into the booster. Many thanks!

Should not need adjusting, if I remember correctly.

Cool thanks men!! I checked like 10 times and there is no way how to adjust anyways , thanks a lot

On the mk4 / A4? The tip of the pushrod in the booster (master cylinder side) might have a threaded adjustment tip. You might be able to pull the master cylinder away from the booster with the lines attached to have a look.

Nothing was adjustable. Ended up replacing the master AGAIN and it solved it. So it was a defective master. Go figure :\

Edward Sessum Thanks for the update!

If you have a question... ask. I'm not a mind reader. 🙂

ESP / Electronic Stability Program is part of the ABS system (where applicable)... there's an ESP button that can be pushed to turn the system off (when it is not wanted). If you do not have an ESP button then you do not have ESP.

@@EXOVCDS I looked and I have a ESP button but I press it and nothing happens. If I install a booster without the electronic stability control feature will everything work normally accept when the press the button nothing will happen? Would the booster still fit in normally?

@@BlackDomeJerome To be honest, I don't know what the actual difference between the boosters is... aside from part number. You can compare the boosters before you remove yours. Compare the engine side of the boosters and the pedal / attachment side of the boosters. Pushing ESP should turn on a light in the dash... indicating that ESP has been turned off.

@@EXOVCDS I went ahead and just got the one with the electronic stability just to be safe. Thanks for your help, appreciate it 👍

@@EXOVCDS another question I have is, what about that tube that goes into fluid reservoir for the clutch. Does the clutch have to be bled?

+Justin Ormsby I'm not sure what they mean... the brake booster needs vacuum lines to operate.

Ok I was curious because people do this thing called the "break booster mod" and maybe i'm confused but the diy posts include removing the whole system it seems.

Justin Ormsby Have you got a link to a forum post?

jettajunkie.com/vw-jetta/showthread.php?14741-DIY-MKIV-GTI-GLI-1.8T-PCV-Delete-Catch-Can-Install-amp-Brake-Booster-Mod I think they're just changing the hose to direct it or something.

Justin Ormsby Posting your initial question under one of my "TDI" videos didn't help me with what you were asking. Now that I see the forum post about "PCV delete", it makes a little more sense. No, the booster vacuum source is NOT eliminated. It is just rerouted directly from the intake manifold to the booster. If the line / vacuum source were completely eliminated, you would have a HARD brake pedal and you would not be able to stop the car quickly. Not all state laws allow for a PCV delete / catch can installation / emission tampering... it can actually cause you to get a fine at your next inspection. Oil vapor / smell will still be present under the hood (will come out of the little air filter that can be seen above the booster), so installing this to get away from an oil smell, is just a cheaper way to try and fix the actual issue. If it's something you wish to do, sure, go ahead... if done correctly, it will not interfere with engine performance, won't set a check engine light and might not cause any oil smell to get into the car.

I bought it direct from the dealer website: vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042

Was that helpful?

@@EXOVCDS it was for me, thanks!

You're welcome! Thank you for watching my videos & reading my comment replies!

I don't think it is as easy as just a gasket / seal... I have not yet come across a hissing MkV booster, so I can not comment on what the fix is, sorry.

T10006A vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042

Thomas EXOVCDS 👍

Thomas EXOVCDS thank you

Gemelo Ruiz r

vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042

So was that what you needed?

Thomas EXOVCDS, thank you, keep it up this really helped me

I think the check valve(s) might not be able to handle the boost... if the booster were bad, I would suspect a hard pedal even when not under boost. You might have to find a beefy / performance check valve. Some booster vacuum pipes (on some cars) have small nipples that feed other vacuum operated components. If your vehicle has a small nipple that you can attach a vacuum hose to, check for positive pressure "after" the check valve... it sounds like that is what is happening (as you already suspect), but it would confirm things 100%. If you have pressure there, then the check valve is no good. If the booster were leaking, you would usually hear that inside the car.

Thomas EXOVCDS I was thinking the same, Thanks for confirmation pal! :-)

I have attached a boost gauge to that nipple and noticed that it shows nice stable vacumm when turbo is under boost but brake pedal still hard so I am thinking about brake booster replacement just a bit scared that it won't help 😁

Vaidotas Vilutis Is the nipple before or after the check valve? Engine off, does it still show vacuum? If it shows vacuum, the pedal should be easy to press. Hmmm

Yeah misterious... nipple is on the brake booster side of valve and air flow is from booster to engine, backwards is totaly closed. I will check after work what it shows when engine is off. I think that brakes suppossed to be even better when idle because I drove a van yesterday which had a very sensitive brakes to compare with my Audi's, but my colleague said that van's brakes are just normal and not impressive at all.. for me it was like sport brakes after my Audi :(

Mine is a snap-on set... this is similar: www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Notch-Chrome-Prying/dp/B00FGER9FO/

Thomas EXOVCDS Thanks! I was searching all over, but I didn't think it was a trim removal tool.

Thanks for posting this video. It was priceless when I removed the booster in my car. That little vacuum hose took me 10 minutes to pry off with a screwdriver, so those pry bars are high up on my wishlist.

They are worth having.. . I use them for a whole bunch of stuff! =)

You can reuse it yes. It usually just pulls off as is.... don't pull too hard.

And to release this clamp you need to squeeze it ? My vacuum pump is leaking air from the "pipe" it wiggle around causing my vacuum to be lower as it should. I ordered new pump and gathering info before the job. Couple months ago I replaced vacuum pump in other car it was easy here looks also but only this clamp. I thought I need to cut it to release. First will try to pull it of without doing anything to it.

Yes, it should have a clamp that you can "squeeze to open"... squeeze the clamp to lock it again. If it is NOT a reusable clamp, just cut it and install a worm gear clamp.

Will do thanks. Just from curiosity you probably noticed/fixed it not once. Vacuum pump "pipe" don't know how to properly name it, but the part of the pump where you connect the hose is loose and vacuum is escaping :(. I saw people glued it and changed the whole hose to more flexible. But I decided to buy new pump and leave oem hose. It's sad that they didn't fix it and new pump looks exactly the same and after some time it will also get loose because of engine vibration. I think my turbo isn't working properly also because of vacuum pump, lately I noticed engine shake when I turn it off. And after checking everything I found that there is vacuum leak and this part which shuts air (don't know name) doesn't work. When I wiggle the hose from the vacuum pump it works.

I have seen JB Weld used to secure a loose fitting. You should have minimum 17" HG of vacuum at components that need vacuum... the pump should easily produce 20"+HG