I started this channel so that my nephews could see what their Uncle does for a living... I quickly realized that it provides a couple of other benefits. It allows people to see what is involved in repairing a car and it shows the different types of tools that a Technician is required to have, in order for him or her to repair those cars.
As this channel grows, I'm hoping that it might help me with future tool purchases or help me catch up with my RRSP contributions.
If you have any VW / Audi technical questions you'd like an answer to, login to my Forum and post the question there:
exovcds.freeforums.org/
I don't know everything about VW / Audi (never worked at a dealership) and all their different Models & Engines etc., but I'll do my best to help you with your question.
@harbinn111 PDF files / documents. Factory information from VW & Audi... "erWin". Depending on your location, there are different official websites to download from. In North America, it costs $35 USD for 24hrs of access. You can download as much as you want for as many vehicles as you want. Different prices when downloading from the European website and other countries.
The Emperor's new groove. Oops I mean the EXOVCDS's new groove. You threw off my groove. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tePa0CI478k.html Happy Motoring.
Hi Thomas! Sorry for the stupid question… Did you jump the control pressure regulator with a + on the light green wire and touched the other end to the brown wire (ground)? THANK YOU for all the endless help you’ve provided to the old vdubberz community, you’re a legend. :D Salute from Vancouver Canada.
The control pressure regulator plug has 2 wires. One is a ground wire (brown) and the other is the power wire for the heating element. The fuel pump relay is what supplies power to that power wire. By applying power to that wire, power is fed to all the components that would normally receive power from the fuel pump relay. The bent / stiff wire that I connected the jumper wire to... only touched the power wire of the warm up regulator plug.
@sebastianlorenzo4935 For Q5 (that I'm working on), service info says to move the sway bar, move the oil cooler and remove mounting bolt for ATF lines from oil pan... then remove oil pan. Drain oil first.
Hi, I am not sure if this is the right place for my question. I have a 95 eurovan. The temp gauge works and the fan comes on while driving. However, on a hot day and I am driving slowly to find a parking spot in the mall, after I turn the engine off it will not start again. It will crank. I lift the hood and notice the engine bay is extremely hot. After 5 minutes of cooling, the engine starts again. I notice there are fine cracks in each resistor. The ignition coil specs are good. Any ideas?
Rad fan resistor packs will not cause a no-start. Fuel pressure in the fuel rail is either dropping (over time) causing "vapor lock" or the hall sensor in the distributor is faulty (when hot). If you do not have "spark" from the ignition coil when the engine is hot and you are cranking the engine (takes 2 people to check for spark)... then I would suspect the hall sensor inside the distributor.
Hey Thomas, i missed that you started uploading again! A few years ago I saw you commenting and we "talked" under a "NIO" video somewhere. Do you still got the nio? I have them all and im like 80% down. I really hope that you sold it all. Best of luck and be safe, take care!
When I start recording, I never know if I'm going to talk or not. In part 2 you'll hear me swear. LOL Voice over when editing is not my thing (tried it a while back). Text overlay for all the different tools is time consuming. It's been 5 years since I was consistently posting... just need to find my groove again. Thank you for watching!
My PC has 2 monitors... the video can look darker / brighter depending on monitor settings. Before you complain that the video is too dark or too bright, try adjusting your monitor settings. When editing the video(s), I compromised between the two monitors that I have and felt that this video quality was acceptable for upload. Thank you for watching!
I don't miss that at all. It was like that every day for five years when I was the only mechanic for a fleet of 20 taxis and 10 school buses. I used to dread going to work when I had ten things on the go at once. Hopefully you're making good money for all the work
Watching other youtube channels is what helps calm me. Dan is one of them. If you see a Euro plate (Diag Dan) in the background of his videos... I sent him that.
Just had my T4's gearbox rebuilt with new bearings and had the reverse gear idler lockout spring replaced. Remember not to park with the box in reverse gear as that causes that pressure spring to fail early in the 02 vw gearboxes
@@EXOVCDS no probs. When that reverse idler spring fails, the idler floats back and forth on the shaft and collides with first gear when in first gear. The rattling sound is quite distinctive.
Who else finds themselves having 2 engines apart and working on other stuff till the parts come back from the machine shop? Spoiler, both engines were done & picked up a couple months ago. Currently waiting for V6 parts to arrive.
30+ years old... vehicle is stressed / not babied. Retaining ring might have been reused the last time the transmission was apart... assuming it was apart once. If not, then, due to old age & being stressed? Our best guess. Tranny guru might have more insight on this. Will post update if that's the case.
I am dealing with this issue now on a 2015 Golf 1.8 TDI vehicle is over heating and there is no heat in the cabin at all at idle. I have replaced the water pump and the secondary pump and still getting the same issue. Top hose very hot and bottom hose very cool. Same issue before that made me think it was for sure a thermostat so went ahead and did water pump/thermostat assembly together but didnt work. I will check with your diagnosis tomorrow and report back with findings. Thank you for posting this I pray it works lol
@@EXOVCDS will check hopefully tomorrow and get back to you. BTW I tried the diag steps on your video, blew through the hose and the coolant reservoir bubbles but when idling no coolant is actually moving through the hose. I'm going to look into getting proper equipment to perform a vacuum bleed of cooling system and also check live data if water pump is spinning if possible. Vehicle has me stumped so far
T3 Syncro (4WD) with noisy transmission. Sorry, still working on engine teardown video. The headlamp I used during filming was too bright for the Video Glasses... need to play with / figure out correct video settings to get acceptable viewing quality. This transmission was removed and sent out for overhauling.
Tervehdys! Rakensin samanlaiset suoja silmälasit kuin sinä. Lukulasit on pakko olla... Vapaasukellan paljon, joten tein myös sukellus maskin joissa on lukulasi linssit... Toimii! Vietä hyvä kesä! "" I built similar protective glasses as you. Reading glasses are a must... I freedive a lot, so I also made a diving mask with reading glass lenses... It works! Have a great summer!
Great video. Question: can this seal be installed too deeply? It looked like you installed the new one flush, and I think the one I removed was flush as well, but when I installed the new one I put the old seal on top of the new one and tapped it with the hammer, and it sunk the new seal in 5 whole millimeters 😮
@ARfourbanger2000 It might be ok, but I would reposition it. Remove the flange with the seal. Place the flange face down on a flat surface and then tap the seal back out from the rear. Re-install the flange with the seal using a seal installer tool to position the sealing lip over the crankshaft.
