Tips and tricks workshop guide to help change rear brake shoes on VAG group cars Smaller models on Volkswagen, Seat, Skoda cars Find the items that are used on the Dave Sterl channel in the Amazon shop. www.amazon.co....
Thanks for your time, this video saved me a small fortune and taught me a lot, greatly appreciated and did wonders for my confidence in tackling jobs like this for myself.
thank you for the knowledge fella,, it helped me fix a polo last night , the thing was jammed and very dusty inside, I was lucky as the shoes were new, looked like a garage had done a bodge, I cleaned it all out and managed to get it functioning , I would of been happier changing the piston as well but i was doing it 7pm fri night
Drum brakes are the devil's work. Had them on a Audi A2 TDI at 150k miles and a Skoda Fabia TDI over 100k miles. They run fine in decent weather, first sign of dampness or the cylinder leaks and goodnight Vienna. Good to see you grease the nylon rubbing pads on the hub backing plate during reassembly. Lucas and Bigg Red sell spring kits too.
Great video and helped me understand the issue I had which was exactly this! I didn’t want to undertake the job myself so needed to get the car to my local garage - had a top tip from the RAC who I’d logged a call out with - couple of buckets of hot water over the drums and the handbrake released for me to be able to take the car to my preferred mechanic!
Great tutorial,thanks for the clear instructions, just got my daughter a vw up with 72k miles on and will be checking out the rear drums soon this could save my sanity !!
Cheers for uploading this Dave, it has been very helpful 👍🏽 I have a Skoda Citigo, got a similar issue, a very common issue amongst VW design by the sound of it.
Thanks for that Dave, I actually had a seized lever on my father-in-law's polo a few weeks ago, I removed just the one shoe and had to heat it to get the lever moving, I got it back on fine but only then to find that the cable is also sticking a little 🙈😂. The joys😂 Good tip to remove the wheel cylinder 👍😉
Just wanted to add a tip after replacing everything and bleeding - Pump the brakes and start the car. Drive around and brake. Try also braking and pulling the handbrake together to make the automatic adjustment do its thing. Then you can start addressing the (probably) loose handbrake. At least for me in the e-UP it was seized on both sized before replacing it all. The wires were probably slightly stretched after staying in that position way too long. So you'll need to have at least one of the wheels in the air so it can spin freely. Remove the trim around the handbrake lever (only one screw in the rear cupholder on UP, then push the trim towards the front of the car). Lift the handle until it engages in the first click, then release. The handbrake should go all the way down. Also try lifting until just before it engages and release, it should go fully down. Otherwise, tighten the adjustment nut (10mm) for the two wires until it does. Next, pull the handbrake lever until the fourth click. Further tighten the adjustment nut until you can't manually rotate the wheel(s). Disengage handbrake and make sure the wheel spins freely. Some slight rubbing sound is OK, it'll wear off the first drive. If you were only able to jack up one wheel at a time, jack up the other and confirm that it responds in the same way as the first one, without further adjustment. You're now done, you've removed any slack in those two wires. Auto-adjustment will carry on working for both handbrake and brakes from now on.
Jeezes mate, i had thé car jacked up, my handbrake was on Fourth click 0 left and fully engaged right....thé handbrake was not adjustung at all....i thén used yr tip: betaling with pedal, at same time thé handbrake, and i got stiff pedal and thé 0 left side Came adjusted....why is that, great tip brother, Bob Belgium
I’m in the middle of the same job on a Polo 9N and I wish I’d seen this video first. I had exactly the same trouble as you getting one of the drums off and used the same methods. Ive got new brake shoes but surprisingly they don’t come with the spreader bar/yoke or wedge adjuster, wonder why they don’t supply everything as a kit? Same with the wheel cylinders, no new bolts. Well anyway now I’ve got the method to reassemble the springs thanks to yourself, wish me luck!
@@TheGibby3340 oh ok, wondering what you saw in the 'trick'. It's just an image saved as a sticker put over a still from the video. Similar to the manufacturers logos on other thumbnails
Cream job Dave 👍👍, they as you say all the same , like they have been dropped in a bucket of rusty water for about 15 yrs before fitting to car from new 👍👍👍👍
I have been doing these since the 90ts probably like yourself fucxxking still hate doing them.. Usually do them with everything still in place. Nice tip taking the slave cylinder off. Always fearful I will give myself more hassle by doing something like that. Think I'll try it next time.
It seems some new brake shoes are a bit too thick even for an old drum with some wear. I thought it was the lip on the drum, so was beavering away with a dremel grinding bit. However, I then realised that once the lip preventing actually getting the drum on and off is away, it is simply a case of the shoes being too thick. After lots of annoying wasted time, I think I will have to try to contour the shoes. This is all after spending hours on the back plates which were caked with stone like deposit (I am talking welded on, not loose). Edit: Or possibly just accept a bit of rubbing that will eventually stop through driving?
I usually just remove the bearing as the usually comes off no bother makes it a bit easier and use a long pick through the wheel hole to pull that adjuster down a bit but good job none the less
'none the less', you don't seem to be that impressed. I mentioned the alternative of pulling the hub and also mentioned no need to pull the adjuster down
Lovely job. The key for me was how to get the bloody thing back on - you must remove the brake cylinder to do it! IMO that is a shite design compared with the old system without the separate hub as you could change the shoes and drum without the mess of brake fluid getting everywhere - obviously VW wants you to replace the brake cylinder whether it needs it or not!
