VW T3: Rough Running / Low Power 2.1L Vanagon / Transporter 

Time to do some checking.

What's the "current" issue? I don't see any other posts from you. Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

Just in case: fkh161.ca/VW/VanagonDistributor.jpg

Thanks , Yes that Definitely is helpful!

Thank you for watching!

@@EXOVCDS actually, thanks for posting your videos. I enjoy watching them and learn a lot.

forgot to add, timing is on...

Drive with the O2 sensor disconnected... to see if things are different. With the wire disconnected, the green O2 wire should have 0.45Vdc on it (with the ignition on engine off or on). Yes / no?

Thank you for watching!

Dianne Keast Thanks... I don't have time to develop the channel into something that is trendy (for now at least). That's why the intro says "watch me work". If I were to post actual DIY videos, the view count might be higher. Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!

Ignition coil? I usually current ramp them to see if the coil looks shorted... can be fine cold, but once it warms up can cause issues. Don't buy & replace, since I don't know if that is the case, but if it's an old coil, might want to check that as well. Did you watch the thermostat video?

Mark Ferraro They allow the fuel to expand out of the tank when the tank is full, but mainly serve as a vapor transfer station, before going to the charcoal canister at the back.

Had I put it on my hoist at the beginning, I would have taken a fuel sample first* and not spent the time to check all of what I did... but then again that only took 15min. My Snap-On Smoke Machine? It's very quiet. Did I use it in this video? I already forgot.

I just watched the video again... I forgot that I smoked the tank in this video. Anyways, it's very quiet. It only pushes 1/2 of a psi.

73psi minimum maximum difference between cylinders 44psi From the Bentley manual (I think you have it).

@@EXOVCDS whats the Bentley manual? Do you have any links? Thanks!

@@jestruck www.bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen/repair-information/vw-vanagon-80-91-repair-manual.html

Monitor fuel pressure & O2 sensor signal.

No.. that's ok. Also make sure that the gas pedal is to the floor (throttle plate fully open).

Thomas EXOVCDS I do it ,i have on the third cylinder 135 (the dead one )will it be higher when the cylinder works again ?

+Κώστας Λεούσης maybe.

Thomas EXOVCDS maybe the firing make the oil reach the pistons rings better

I'll get back to you later tonight.

Craig Ross Have you bypassed the idle stabilizer box (between the coil & the ignition module) to see if it makes a difference? Have you tried a different ignition coil (could be shorted). When was the last time that the hydraulic lifter adjustment was checked)? What is the reference voltage going to the O2 sensor (Ignition on, O2 disconnected, voltmeter attached to green reference wire). Has the distributor hall sensor been checked (with a scope) or tried a different distributor? Not gonna be easy finding the problem over the internet. Look for a reputable shop (VW Specialty) in your area by using this link: autorepair.iatn.net/

***** I havent checked the lifters. Engine runs good until the o2 sensor comes online. Then shakes. Like a misfire. The exhaust is puffing (no smoke) like one cylinder isn't firing. when I rev it, it's smooth from 1500rpm up. Not as much power as I used to have. No bottom end at all. I have to rev it to 2500-3500 off the line and let the clutch out slow. Once i get to 3500rpm it will pull from there. The 02 sensor is creating from .2 to 5V and switching when hot. I have not checked the voltage off the harness. I was under the impression you don't connect anything to that. I will bypass the idle box. However, I have 3 of them and they all do the same thing. Engine idle is steady but like mentioned, misses when warmed up and no power. Like a fuel starvation issue however I have good fuel pressure (about 38 at the T fitting at idle and 45-48 with the vacuum line removed form the regulator). Harness checks out on the ohm meter just about every pin. One thing I noticed is that the idle switches seem to do nothing to the engine but are good. Checked at the ECU connector with an continuity tester and ohm meter. I have a spare coil and will test with that when it stops raining. I dont think it's a mechanical problem ads the engine is quiet there no not much lifter noise. It's been my experience that when the lifters are out enough to mess the engine up this much, you hear it from 20 feet away. There could still be a fuel clog somewhere in the line as when I got the whole thing changed it ran amazingly well to the point of not wanting a subaru engine then gradually the power fell off over the course of 3 days.

Craig Ross If it shakes & sputters, then you have a cylinder that's misfiring. You can have random misfires or a single cylinder. A power balance test can pinpoint a bad cylinder. At idle, briefly remove a spark plug wire from the distributor cap. Note the rpm change... reattach the wire and pull the next wire. Do the same for all. The wire that causes "the least" rpm change, is the cylinder to focus on. I'm more concerned about valves that are adjusted too tight, than valves that are too loose. I posted a video a while back of a vanagon engine that ran rough due to tight valves (which burnt the valve seats & valves). At the end of the video there's a shot of the engine running with new heads... smooth as butter. A leak down test (air forced into the cylinder through the spark plug hole) can confirm a valve problem, even if compression checks out OK.

***** I can't get to that this weekend but I'll try early next week. I have noticed that it's temperature dependent. When the van is cold it runs ok but gets worse until it's about 1/2 warmed up. When the temp needle is in the middle it runs much much better. I also notice it sometimes starves for gas. Like a sudden loss of power. When I step on the gas off a red light it's super duper hesitant. When I floor it I get the deep throaty sound but very little pickup. A few moments later it's better. Like fuel starvation. I'm also getting 9mpg in town.

I know shops that won't touch cars older than year 2000. Aftermarket / parts are harder to find... quality is no good. The vehicle itself is difficult to work on (rust / age)... even if the vehicle is in great shape... back to point 1 (part availability).

You are a 100 percent correct, nobody wants to even touch them. And it seems to me it hurts their pride, not wanting to tell you they don't know.

I know... people hate what they don't understand. You can always watch netflix instead!

Ah but I do understand. I had an 84 with the 1.9 and the Wasserboxer is best described as a boat anchor that is good at turning gasoline into heat, noise, and exhaust, but very bad at making the damn car actually go. The Wasserboxer is a hateful lump of worthless shit I hope VW gets skullfucked by the EPA so hard that they leave the US and never return.

John Dagastino We still have several customers with 1.9's... think of it as a pet. Look after the pet and it will live a long happy life. Neglect it and it will find another owner or die.

John fuck you, 2.1 are good

..except for the stretching rod bolts.