Thank you so much tomorrow morning Im going to re do it I was turning the tensioner roller clock wise and try to align the arrows it's CCW - hopefully tomorrow maybe I can even start the car to see if I successfully install the steam seal and re put everything back correctly and that link was AWSOME i got all my questions and more ! once again Thanks a LOT
Cool man thanks for putting the vids online have recently done timing belt on my 2.4d and they were a great help. What I'd give for an air ratchet though!
The cooling system began to boil over after a year in storage. replacing Thermostat didn't help, reservoir tank just floods over, after just 3 minutes of idling and cooling fans don't keep up. So I'm guessing its next stop water pump surgery and may as well replace the 280K Km Timing Belt while Im in there. Looks daunting, but appreciate your videos. My 94 T4 2.4D seems to break off studs on the engine block so Im not looking forward to it. Just replacing starter broke off 2 studs I had to drill out! Oh well!
I believe I watched almost all of your timming and valve related videos and thank you for taking your time to put sucha great information out there . after 3weeks of trial and error and lack of proper tool(s) i'm almost at the end with my valve steam seal replacement on late - 95 Eurovan /T4 gasoline 2,5L with 205.000 miles Vin # _____7070SH083____ As I'm putting back everything after 3 weeks my memory fails to remember everything if you kindly advise me with the followings greatly appreciated . 1- I replace the timing belt tensioner with Canadian Litens and unfortunately did not marked or pat attention when i was taking it out i place the new one from the passenger side wheel opening and there is a little pin sticking out at the 2 o'clock position on the engine side so i put the elongated loop next to dial arrow and put the lightning screw and turn it down for few turn after placed the belt then hand turn the black pentagon around the bolt then with a ranch turn the black pentagon as much as it went and thighten the bolt. I can turn the belt 90 degree with my hand with a medium resistance Question is that dial arrow does NOT meets the small flat screwdriver looking tap. I turn the belt around 4-5 times in clockwise direction but when I turn it CCW that dial arrow moves any advise and also what is the torque on that tensioner bolt? 2- speaking of tensioner bolt what is the torque on the crane pulley large middle one and the 4 small ones 3- I also put a new set of spark plugs but can find the gap opening for the spark plugs 4- I also run a cylinder leak down test with a harbor freight tool i set each cylinder before the test on TDC and i got Cyl 1 Moderate- 18% slight hissing coming from oil cap Cyl 2 8% Slight hissing from oil cap Cyl3 20% slight hissing from oil cap Cyl4 20% very faint hissing coming from the device top of the intake valve unit hose end Cyl5 10% and no hissing anywhere . I have not start the car other then hand crank the engine so not sure Cyl 4 is or all the other risers has collapse yet or Should I take the head out and replace all the valve and the cylinder head rings since i got a 200K or better yet Should I find a Disel engine and replace it . I heard in Mexico they still produce 1.9 diesel engine ? Best wishes. A. Belgin
Hi Tomas how I find the TDC? By accident I jump a teeth or to turning around the motor wile timing the motor and the freeweel dont have any mark signaling where is the TDC. so I dont know how to syncronice the cranshaft with the camshaft. Any tips please how to do?
Is it ok to change the cam belt without removing the fuel timing belt? I've just done my cam belt but didn't want to mess with the fuel timing as I don't have the correct gauge to set the belt tension. I marked the teeth on the crank and cam pulley and made sure they aligned when the new cam belt was fitted and tensioned along with the timing mark on the fuel pump and tdc mark on the flywheel? I've turned it over by hand a few times and all seams ok. Also how did you lock the crank to remove and replace the main crank bolt from vibration dampener pulley. I can't find a way to lock the crank other than put it in 4th and have someone stand on the brake?
The fuel pump belt needs to be removed to do a proper timing belt change... after timing belt change, the fuel pump timing needs to be checked / adjusted. The vibration damper is held with a counter hold tool, when loosening or tightening the crankshaft bolt.
@@EXOVCDS thanks for the reply and appreciate you sharing your skills. I will see if I can get hold the tool to set the pump timing or take it to be checked. Is this ok post cam belt change or would the whole cam belt process need to be repeated? I'm tinking I can fabricate something to suit the counter hold tool. Dose the counter hold tool fit to the rear of the vibration dampener? Thanks again Al
@@uvs707 if the fuel pump belt was not off... to fit cam lock tool at rear of camshaft, then odds are that cam / crank alignment is not fully correct (even if marks were made on the cam belt), because the cam gear needs to be loose on the camshaft during tensioning of the cam belt. The counter hold tool sits inside the front of the pulley... it grabs ahold of the cast lug on the inside of the pulley. The vw tool part number is listed in the service manual. People have found ways around it... such as this. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714687
@@EXOVCDS thanks again for the info, it is appreciated. I'm struggling to find a proper service manual for it. I've found a near mint 1998 syncro with 28k on the clock and I want to look after it. I can't find any information regarding the rear diff. Your video is the most detailed information I've been able to find on the 2.4 cam belt.
First, tighten the belt to make sure it does not jump more. The injection pump has a hole for the #1 TDC locking pin. Turn the engine slowly, until the pin fits into place, then you can remove the valve cover and the injection pump belt & cam gear... so that you can insert the camshaft locking plate. ***If you feel resistance / crankshaft stops turning when trying to turn the crankshaft, then timing is off too much, causing valves to touch the puston***. All flywheels have tdc marks, you just need to look in the correct place. Once the camshaft is locked, you need to loosen the camshaft gear bolt at the timing belt and tap the gear loose with a punch & hammer. Once loose, you can turn the crankshaft 1 or 2 teeth until it is at tdc. Then, tighten the camshaft gear again... remove the camshaft lock, install the cam gear & belt for the injection pump. Adjust injection pump timing with a dial gauge... turn the engine 2 turns to make sure it turns freely and that the pump timing is ok.
www.bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen/repair-information/vw-eurovan-92-99-repair-manual.html The books (3 of them) are $219.95 You can download all the Eurovan Service Manuals for $35 here: erwin.vw.com/erwin/showHome.do
***** In Germany we have the "Reparaturleitfaden" for mechanics (garage), but your book looks more detailed and with more text. I am private person. Will try to get a download from erWin
Frederick Lasch Erwin is the same information as the book... Bentley publishers gets the information from VW and adds some DIY information (to make the "service manual / book" easier to read. The German Erwin website is not as easy to use as the USA site.
roma dape Because not everyone can do it in 40 min.... my videos do not show actual time, since I edit my videos. The labor guide that repair shops use suggests the average amount of time that it takes for the average mechanic. If a mechanic has never done a job (no matter how simple) he / she will take longer than a person who has done the same repair 100 times. Someone who can do it fast, should not get less $... that is why there are labor standards, so that no matter where you go, the labor time will be similar (the labor rate / $ can be different though from shop to shop).
