VW TDI ALH Injection Pump Quantity Adjuster Bad?

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From what research I have done and found on the internet, the quantity adjuster in my injection pump is bad. I'm thinking due to trash/metal particles under what is seen in the video. To my understanding, when the ignition switch is switched on, the QA needle should do a full sweep and return, this one sticks and then eventually returns. This is what I believe is causing a hard code of "17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached - Intermittent" This causes the car to surge at idle. If I am wrong or correct, post and let me know! :-)

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28 апр 2017

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Комментарии : 35

@mjt-ew8rs 6 лет назад

just a guess- cold start advance holding that?

@anthonybarger 4 года назад

so if the pump is bad, are you better off swapping another pump or rebuilding it? Like you said solder?

@EXOVCDS 7 лет назад

Yeah... it seemed like that it was able to go full travel after you moved it manually. Dirt / contamination possibly, but I think you said you already ran diesel purge through the system. Sorry, I can't be of more help / have info on taking things apart for checking & repairing.

@cotjocky466 7 лет назад

No problem. Just glad for your input. ;-)

@RobertRoussel 6 лет назад

I know I'm seeing this a bit late, but I believe I had a similar issue on my 2002 Golf. I was getting the same code and it was idling bad. I tried everything before I was brace enough to open up the quantity adjuster, but that's were the problem was. The problem was two fold: (1) nasty build up of some kind of gunk on everything under the board (as you already believed) and (2) the N146 sensor needed to be recalibrated. With VCDS or OBDELEVEN, access channel 19 and you'll see two voltage readout from the QA. Those will need to be aligned properly in order for the ECM to not throw a code when it does the initial sweep. Let me know if you still need assistance with it, I should be able to dig up some old links that helped me out.

@JoRioux 6 лет назад

Hi Robert, i'm having the same issue with my IP, how did you cleaned the gunk? Do you have to disassemble the QA needle or anything? Also do I only need to clean the gunk in the upper cover or also in the lower part of the IP?

@RobertRoussel 6 лет назад

Jonathan Rioux I recently made a video showing how to open up the QA. If you can solder then it's very easy. I also show what caused the build up of metal particles in mine. Funk from oxidation of the fuel is very easy to remove and so are the extremely small metal fragments that build up on the coil and iron core - just be sure you pay attention on how you reassemble it or you'll have build up again very soon. Parts of the QA will come in contact with each other when it's in operation and cause the metallic build up, I'll show you how in the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nd50iJIlvkI.html

@JoRioux 6 лет назад

I was just watching your video when you replied to me! I have a question for you though. When you had this issue, does the car idled roughly like mine and the Injection Quantity and RPM bouncing all over the place? Mine does that for more than a year now, I just learned to live with it. But recently I got really bad mileage and those codes appeared (P1562 and P1563) for a few days and disappeared. I opened a thread a year ago explaining all my symtoms and the troubleshooting I did: forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=458133 Do you think my issue lies into the QA needle being gunked up?

@RobertRoussel 6 лет назад

Jonathan Rioux possibly. Certainly worth exploring. The previous owner of my car did the same as you, until he lost hope and let the car sit up for over a year. Luckily for me, his discouragement led him to believe it was the pump itself. If it's the pump, change it... but be sure it's the pump! Most people on the forums and Facebook groups immediately jump to the pump as an issue and treat it like its unserviceable. It may be complicated and yes sometimes (thanks to ULSD fuel) it wears down internally, but if you do the research and are patient enough you can diagnose the actual issue. Getting a new pump will fix any issue with the pump for sure, that's obvious. But if you are willing to try and push through by doing the research and being inquisitive, you may fix the issue with literally a few cents worth of solder - such as in my case. Best of luck to you with your pump! Also you can contact me on the TDIclub forum - my username is RobRou. Likewise this thread shows my journey with the issue: forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=476927

@Vo0d0o2009 6 лет назад

i have suceffuly unlocked my pump then recalibrated the piston modulation sensor at group 019 , theres is now 100km over since this that my car run like a charm , before reclosing my fuel pump , ive dropped 2 can of break cleaner inside to clean the max of this gunk like you talk , look like these IP , need some love after some 100k thanks

@TheAbrunqaj 3 года назад

Will diesel purge clean the IP without having to open it up?

@cotjocky466 3 года назад

Yes, you can run diesel purge without opening the pump. You can just pour it in the tank of the vehicle. If you are having these type problems, diesel purge probably isn't going to fix your issue, but you can give it a try and see. Good luck.

@cdilshan9138 4 года назад

What is this replace in diode

@eezerdude1 5 лет назад

Did you ever fix this? Was the QA fault cleared? I have the same issue but no fault code.

@cotjocky466 5 лет назад

No, it would require desoldering parts of the pump that I am not willing to tear into. The pump can't be set correctly so even if you clear the code, it just comes back instantly. My dad drives this back and forth to work 90 miles every day. He retires in less than a year and is unwilling to spend $1,500 on a new pump. He just drives it as is. It has continued to work for over 50K miles like this. It sucks when stopped, but effects nothing while driving which is the high majority of his trip on the interstate.

@eezerdude1 5 лет назад

cotjocky466 fair enough... mine too she runs fine, but idling is smokey as hell unburnt diesel like it’s overfuelling...

@cotjocky466 5 лет назад

@@eezerdude1 My father's does not have that problem. It does not smoke and it does not smell like raw fuel. The RPM's are up and down and the car "surges" when in drive with the brake pressed. The RPM's are constantly up and down, up and down, up and down at idle. Very annoying. You may have different issues.

@DanielBilan 4 года назад

@@cotjocky466 I did desolder it on mine, it is not such a big deal. Cleaned the metal and it worked like a dream for 680 000 and more with the next owner...

@dixionyurmouf1868 Год назад

@@DanielBilan can you tell me how you did it ?

@RichardsWorld 6 лет назад

I'm curious if you did what I did, and what some other people have done that I seen in some forums. When changing the seals I didn't get the I think it is called pushrod part back in the hole. I think this caused it to get bent when I was trying to start the car. After fixing this and alighting the pushrod that car ran fine but I started to get the 17970 code. I can adjust the fuel quantity correctly and the Voltages seem to be OK for now, but I get the code once in awhile.

@johnteegen3434 5 лет назад

How were you able to get it sat back down in there? I've been trying and it seems like a get it but then I got to tighten it down and I don't even get it hand tight and it wont even move at all.

@frankirving1800 10 месяцев назад

If you take a good look at that QA, I think it's Chinese CRAP. The color of the body should be beige and the temperature sensor is NOTHING like the real one. It's not what I'd want on my car. The business with it sticking open some 20% is not WRONG. It's a setting for some cars that have hard start issues. The assembly has an advance solenoid that could be contaminated, and that's where you usually find trash showing up...on the screen for the advance solenoid.