Today, I used your video to replace the AC compressor and drier on my 1999 E320. Your help was awesome because you covered each step perfectly by giving the exact sockets and tools needed. Using the extension with the swivel socket worked perfectly in loosing the low/high suction lines. Again, much appreciation for the video. PS I am a retired university administrator and have evaluated hundreds of students/professors in my career! Great job that was comprehensive and simply explained for those of us who had never tackled this replacement!
Hi Masood, awesome video. Have a question that you may know the answer to. My A.C. on 2004 SL55 has been blowing warm air. I added some refrigerant and can hear hissing noise coming from the vents and in engine compartment, right where the compressor is. I'm thinking of changing compressor and the hoses and of course the receiver drier as you mention in the video. Does that sound about right to you? I appreciate any advice you may have. Thanks
Hey Great video. How can I test my compressor to see if power is getting to it? Is there a relay and where is it located? I tried to turn the clutch pulley and it turns easily. The only problem is the hot air. Thank you in advance. Love these old cars!!
Thank you so much for this video! I have a 2001 cl 600, I keep hearing a low end grinding noise from the engine bay, lower right hand side. I believe it’s the AC. This is the same procedure on the CL correct? The V12 makes it super tight, I might remove the radiator to get better access.
Hi Michael, thanks. Yes, the procedure is pretty much the same, and you are right, space is quite tight. As to the noise, please ascertain first the source of it.
@@masood-tv thank you for the response! Just be to clear, it seems like C S E ML SLK CLK have the same compressor, is that correct? They range from 2000 to 2011
@@michaelbuffington4047 I believe so but to be sure you can call any MB dealer's parts department, provide your VIN#, get the part number, and then shop around. If you couldn't figure it out easily, let me know and I will look it up in the EPC catalog for you.
Hi Masood. The compressor u replaced is variable displacement compressor and i think its 7SBU16C. I would like to inform you that The oil fill and drain was wrong. You have to remove and add oil from service port (10mm bolt next to electrical connector). You can find what i said by google Denso compressor installation.
Hi Rashid, the compressor came pre-filled, I removed as much of the oil as I could and replaced it with fresh oil from the low pressure side, turning the clutch, until both ports were filled with the displacement amount. The A/C in that car has been very cold for the duration of a very hot June and July down here in the SE US.
Hello Masood. Thanks a lot for this video and the other ones in your description. I just subscribed and will check them out too. My MB is a 2000 clk 320 but I think there are some similarities with your videos.
I just removed my old compressor and found out that there is no oil at all, just a few drops. Although the new compressor "they say" comes prefilled....what do you recommend just leave it ? ( its parts geek...) let me know - great video man!!
@@masood-tv thank yo very much sir...greatly appreciated. One last question and will stop bothering you lool - do I need to apply any type of grease for the o-rings or just regular oil ( assuming regular oil would be fine) ?
I ordered an ac compressor for my w211 but something in the Manuel said something about o rings, I never received any, are they pretty installed? Do they go on the compressor or something else? Thanks
Hi Michael - yes, it is best you use new o-rings. They go at junction points of lines to and from compressor. When you remove your old compressor, pay attention and recover your old o-rings, then take them to an auto parts store and purchase identically sized AC-rated o-rings.
Hi the8418, I did it for 3 reasons, 1 to show how to, 2, did not know exactly what type of oil was used and 3, couldn't tell how long ago the compressor was filled with it. Thx.
@@masood-tv Thanks again. Also you said prior to doing this removal the system should be “vacuumed” first? Is this process sucking all the Freon out? And then I should be able to remove the high pressure/low pressure hoses? Do you have a video for that?
@@jomarugarte5006 Yes, you first responsibly dispose the Freon. Then you vacuum the the system so all air is removed. I do have a video on tha: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a8tL7fLD4cU.html. Keep in mind, any time your replace the compressor, you should also replace your receive/drier. I have a video on that as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hKi77BmUc8o.html
For this repair, you are not replacing evaporator and condenser, so you only need to add 70% of 120 = 84 cubic centimeters of oil to the compressor. Is it true?
This is so helpful. I own a 2005 Chrysler Crossfire ( Mercedes Slk 320 ) and I have tried to replace the clutch and electromagnet and pully while it is attached to the car, it has been a big pain to do , everything was easy to take apart and youtube makes everything look easy and fast I have it all apart but I cannot get the new electro magnetic snap ring back on . I cant seem to get that snap ring to stay . I hate to remove the compressor it is such a tight space there. I guess I am not as good at this type job anymore due to my fingers . Do you have a video how you may have replace the clutch and electromagnet while compressor is attached to the car ? Oh my compressor is fine its just the clutch and pully and electromagnet that went bad I bought the kit off ebay for this model car which is the same set up as your Mercedes . Thanks for the video
Hi Ryan, unfortunately I don't. Do you have any snap ring pliers? If you don't, get one and you should be able to install the ring very easily. Do a search in Google and see which kind best suits your application: internal, external, straight, bent, etc...
@@masood-tv Hi Masood yes I have the snap ring pliers but I cant seem to get them in there just right with compressor on car but I hate to remove the compressor because that seems harder. I think I got into something a little out of my range of expertise ughhh . I don't have a garage so every time I have to do any project I must take all my tools out then put them away because I am out side and now it is getting colder . Thanks so much for your help
Hi Ryan, you can certainly remove the 3 bolts and the electric connector to gain some maneuver room. Of course, you will need some platform to rest the compressor on while trying to install the ring. But, if you have to disconnect any of the two pressure lines, you will have to evacuate the system first, replace the Receiver Drier and recharge the system. I hope you won't have to go that far.
@@masood-tv Really !! I would love to drop the compressor to get better access I took radiator fan out to get in better. Hopefully tomorrow is sunny and warmer . I live in USA. Your a good man . Because I wish it could be easy never is lolol I will have to buy the York ends. Wish you were my neighbor we could fix this right away. Thanks again Masood : )
How do I know thats its my compressor that needs replacing...got nothing but warm air coming out and it won't recharge at the low fitting. Like it's full or not moving through the system
Very nice and easy to follow video! I was going to replace my AC, but then I saw the outer wheel was at the bottom of my engine bay, just lying there. I would like to give that a shot before replacing the whole thing. I am however missing the screw holding it in place. You can see it very briefly where he holds his thumb at 4:10.. Does anyone know the part number, or the size (width/depth) or care to take measurements? I would be truly grateful!
Same thing happened to me haha, started my car up and it made a nice clunking sound and I looked under the hood and the belt pulley was just at the bottom of the bay staring at me
Hi Masood, thank you for your video, I have a question if you don't mind, I just bought a new A/C Compressor its HELLA 351175511 compatible with my car E240 , 2000 model I wanted DENSO compressor but unfortunately it was not available, I was surprised when I found out that its made in China, I don't recall Ii bought a mechanical part for my car or previous Mercedes that was made in China, do you recommend it? Thanks a lot..
Hi Mohmuns - Hella is ok. Denso and Nissens are much better. I recommend these at 0:22 seconds into the video. What did you pay for it? If you can return free of charge, do it.
@@masood-tv Thanks for the advice, I managed to find a Denso for $272 and waiting to get it, bought a drier and a condenser, I hope I'll get good results!
@@mohmuns - you are very welcome. If you decide to charge it yourself, be sure to rent a vacuum pump and ac manifold. Otherwise, have a shop do it. You will do just fine. Let me know if you run into issues.
@@masood-tv When the shop tried to recharge the compressor they couldn't, they said that there was a problem with power not coming to the compressor or something (not really clear what the problem exactly is). I d'ont want to replace the whole A/C system components especially if that's not necessary.
@@masood-tv I'm not sure if the person was right about the power issue as he said that without testing anything. Do you know how I can see/test if I have an open system or how can I test if my compressor is working?
J'ai un problème pour quantifier le poids d'huile à mettre dans mon compresseur NRF 32053 monté sur un véhicule Mrcedes WDB2100611A930829. Sur votre site, vous préconisez 120 ml. Le fabricant NRF me conseille 250 ml. Avec 250 ml, le compresseur est plein à ras. L'orifice BP et HP sont pleins. N' y a t-il pas de risque ?? Mrci pour votre aide. Salutations. Smail B.
@@masood-tv Hello. Bonjour. Merci pour la réponse. J'ai reçu l'information des 250 ml du fabricant NRF. Fabricant du compresseur NRF 32053 compatible avec mon véhicule. Ce qui m'inquiète est que les 250 ml recommandées remplissent complètement le compresseur. l'huile est visible sur les deux orifices BP et HP. Lors du démarrage du compresseur, celui-ci va comprimer de l'huile et non du gaz ! N'y a t-il pas de risque pour le compresseur (clapets ??). Merci sincèrement. Salutations.
video is excellent without dropping any point. but I m facing an issue like AC is through a worm air when it is in an idle state.when it comes to highway its throughs chill air. I don't why I am facing this issue. can anyone help with this issue? My car details: Mercedes e-class 350 2009 w212 Thanks in advance..
Thx Nazeer. Warm at idle condition may be caused by a number of reasons such as a low freon level, a bad fan, a clogged condenser or even a bad radiator. If your freon is low, you will need to figure out why.
@@baitse7676 but that requires a good motor mount. If your motor mount is good it’s easy peasy, if you got bad motor mount, you still can get it out from above without remove radiator, just need to remove the viscous fan and upper coolant hose and it’s all good. There is another video about remove the compressor from 4matic v8 210 from above. There is no such room to slip it out from below for that awd v8 210
When a compressor fails it blows pieces all into the lines of the system and the evaporator and condenser. If you don't flush all the metal and contaminstes out of each component the new compressor will fail very quickly! Also some condenser are dual pass and you can never get all the pieces of the old compressor out of it so just buy a brand new one and always replace all the little o rings and the expansion valve too on the firewall. Its not easy to get to as its under the plastic cowl that all the rain water drains into . You will have to remove all the plastic pieces from the base of the windshield even the mono windshield wiper assembly. Flush the system components with ac flush fluid or brake clean or something that doesn't leave a residue behind. There are no short cuts with Air Conditioning systems. They have to be hospital clean inside and 100% free from water and moisture because components will corrode when you mix water and refrigerant.
It's really not as easy as it looks o, firstly taking out the belt and fixing it back needs experience, secondly you don't just remove a faulty compressor and just replace it without finding the cause of the damage, thirdly i think putting of R134 compressor oils in Benz compressors is more appropriate from the (12 or 14) bolt on top of the compressor and not from the Highside and low side channels. Quite straightforward video tho 👍
Thank you, Christus. Totally agree on replacing compressor only if it really needs replacing. As to which port, another viewer made the same comment. Folks should consider that. To be sure, the method in this video works just as well. Thx again.
Sorry your experience was so different. As I suggest in the video, it really helps to tackle the job with a helper. One in bottom of car and another on top.
@@masood-tv thanks. maybe you can answer: at MB dealership i was changing oil and battery. after that visit my ac compressor stopped working. they said: dumb luck and they break after 8-10 years anyway. my car is a sunday driver and only has 32k miles on it. so what are the odds? thanks
