Walmart Bike to Project Bike - Decision Process, Reasoning and Hidden Costs 

He’s back. Man, I didn’t think you were coming back. So glad to hear you again.

I got a big box bike (A Lerun Evo Race) as a gift. It was heavy, came with Shimano Flatface and a 16 inch sizing. After some inspiration from KevCentral, now it has a 780mm Wake comp bars, a Megarange freewheel, a Shimano Alivio rear derailleur, short stem, hydraulic brake (only the rear :D) and an IXF 1 by crank set on the way. Where I live, parts are dirt cheap and I've only spent less than $80. It does trails no problem, but no jumps for sure. However, the amount of stuff learnt by working on bikes is priceless. I now know how to replace every single part on a bike and properly adjust derailleurs. A skill I probably wouldn't have learnt if i had a more expensive bike to begin with.

I say this to a lot of people i meet on the trail who look at my upgraded walmart bike funny, "I only did this because I wanted to do this and I Love the frame on this bike and I'm comfortable with this bike" If you want to upgrade a bike, do it, if you want to buy a preupgradedp remium bike do it. as long as you enjoy the ride and the work and proejct that's all that matters.

Welcome back, hope things have been going okay during the hiatus.

The big box bike king is back.

So glad you’re back!

A nice KevCentral video before I go to bed

A dumb trick I learned after taking appart a 70s bike is using the "frame" as a wrench. you put your bottom bracket removal's tool in a vice with space around it, and put the bike on top. If you slowly turn the bike it will easily come loose. Now obviously its easier if you only got a frame but its still safer than using a breaker bar imo

Steel into aluminum with out anti-seize will do it

Omg kev I missed you, glad your back bud and good luck on the trails stay safe ❤

Kev, two items: 1. Would enjoy seeing a how-to of taking off a bottom bracket and installing the IXF crankset. 2. Have you tried an oval chainring on any of your bikes, yet? It's absolutely improved my riding.

electrolysis of dissimilar metals will do that. very common in automotive applications to use a type of barrier (grease or a gasket)

Building out a big box bike (as long as it's a decent platform to start with, *looking at you Hyper* , doesn't even have to be about being budget friendly. It's just great fun and the best thing is that you learn how a bike works! And it tranfers to any other bike out there once you understand. Really can't thank you enough for what you do here, I've been enjpying the hell out of these projects and riding them! Also, if that Hydroform ends up being someones prize, they will ve very very happy with it. Still bummed they're gone 😢

Glad you're back! Cannot wait for more videos! Hope all is well!!

Really glad you are back!

Its awesome to see you back kev! Ive been bingeing a bunch of your older videos because of lockdown. Any content from you is always appreciated

I know this video is old but im so happy that i found your channel, I want to get into mountain biking and trail riding but the up front cost is so intimidating where everything on reddit and youtube is saying its a $900-$2000 cost just to see if you even like the sport/hobby. I've always been a big fan of building my own stuff (i.e. computers, cars, etc) and i like being able to find a good foundation and build off of that when i have the funds available. Thank you for taking people like me into mind!

I like the how to videos. They give me a advanced notice. What to expect while I disassemble and tools needed

Just picked up a Nishiki Pueblo to build up. First thing is a 1x conversion and dumping the twist shifter. Love the channel!

I have one of those Kobalt impact guns. Its a beast. Worth the money. Takes rusted together stuff off my jeep and old jeep parts I get.

I have always removed bottom brackets by placing the bb tool in a vice and using the frame as leverage to undo it. So far I have had 100% success rate.

Welcome back, Kevin! Good news about your dad!! If upgrading bikes is someone's thing, good for them! If buying a "super-bike" from a bike shop is someone's thing, good for them, too! Ride what you like! Love your videos! Keep up the good work! Again, glad to hear about your dad!!!!

If you got long arms, aim for wider handlebars. You can cut the bar down if it is too long, but you can't put it back on if it is too short. A shorter stem will change your body positioning, more upright. I preferred that, others might not. The cranks and bottom bracket on my Schwinn was also a real PITA to remove and I just about broke myself in two doing it...but I managed it without any powertools. Just a breaker bar + a wrench. Welcome back Kev!

Welcome back, hope you have a project 2020 Schwinn boundary coming soon

The primary issue with the bottom bracket cups is usually galvanic corrosion, not the installation torque. If the steel cup is threaded at the factory dry (no grease), then it will weld itself into the housing (only on aluminum frames).

Hello 👋🏽 KevCentral, I have never seen anyone who passionately explain in great detail upgrades values of bikes how to save money and bills such beautiful color combination bikes big box bikes ebikes you are the best at what you do, I am not discrediting any other RU-vid big bucks bike builder, thank you for such informative videos I have purchased a mongoose dolomite, I will build I watch as many videos as I can of yours I’m beginning to find a different color handle and risers, and stems different color bike pedals hydraulic brakes bolts disc thank you for your time and effort like many of your subscribers I support your community again you are the best....

Glad you're back.

Glad your dad is ok, I think maybe the dissimilar metals of the frame and that cup might cause them to get stuck together almost like they're cold welding together.

I've had good luck with threading a bolt and washer into the bottom bracket spindle to hold the tool. Then using a long wrench (or breaker bar with a crow's foot) to loosen the cups. It's a lot cheaper than using an impact wrench and is less likely to damage the splines of the tool or the cups.

I attached the final bits to my "Project Ripsaw" yesterday and I am in love with it. I have some pricey bikes in my collection, but the Ripsaw has been so much fun to upgrade and ride.. New Pedals, New Seat/Post, New Bars/Stem, New Rotors, New Hydro Brakes, and New Grips.. Still Considering a suspension Fork and Chainring upgrade, but it feels great as is..

The Box, Promax and Tektro mechanical disks work pretty ok. They come on some fairly high end dirt jumpers and some mid-level trail bikes. And, they are all less expensive then hydros.

My $ 900, 2 year bike I added a 100mm budget dropper for $ 79 . It was heavy but works flawlessly . I added a 11/46 budget cassette for $ 46 corresponding with my added 28 tooth singe chain ring for $16 downsizing from a 30 tooth . This gave me way better long duration climbing ability . I added a bike pump for $ 20 . I even got some shoes from walmart for $ 13 which had a completely flat sole on the bottom that the pedal pegs do not tear up as the rubber is hard so a good platform for flat pedals . My only expensive part that was added is the oversize platform pedals that were a $ 100 but my son bought me them for a birthday and they are nice but I would have never bought them because of cost . I have replaced a few chains . I installed one new set of brake pads that are semi metallic which seems to hold up well . My rotors dont recommend metallic but I felt semi would be fine and it appears to be .Budget tires have been a problem as they are struggling in my rocky terrain . Also going budget tubeless has been a trial and error finding an affordable way to do that which may cost a bit more upfront to experiment For me the cost has to be less than what I would pay for a tube . So I made the bike heavier but thats not a big deal as performance is improved . Upgrading as you go along is a good approach but cost of tools have to be part of the equation .To keep it worth it you have to do the work yourself but the upfront cost for tools can get pricey . You may want to do a video on a budget direction on tools , maybe tires as some other content

I just started fixing a old rusted Titan Punisher bicycle after sitting in my garage for few years. Just trying to bring it back to life for fun.

You should do a video on sizing the parts for replacement or upgrades.

Good to see you back, hope you and your family are all keeping well 👍

1/2" Breaker bar from HF and then use a tube off a HF Jack as a cheater bar and you will have all the torque you need to break the seal and get the bracket to start turning and then finish off with the impact wrench.

I think buying frames and choosing the parts you want over a while is pretty good. As long as you have a bike to ride in the mean time

I had the same issue with the bottom bracket on my wife’s Aluminum Comp. I had to have her hold the tool in place while I put my full 190 pounds on a breaker bar to get it loose. My Taff wasn’t as bad. I was able to get it loose on my own but was still overly tight.

Thanks for your fast reply and so honest, yes, you know what's going on in the bike world.

Welcome back, we all need a break but you were missed. Can’t wait to see what you have in store for your project comp! I saw that teaser of the rear gearing!!

My first consideration is weight vs suspension travel. I usually go with a used Fox air shock out back and maybe a used Manitou R-7 air fork. The big box steel spring forks are usually in excess of 15 lbs, some as much as 19 lbs. A good used air fork will bring that down to 7~8 lbs. And that is a lot on the front end. Once I have a usable/tunable suspension, I will look at other stuff. The goal on a full suspension bike, for me, is always sub-30 LBS in ready to go mode. Hard to do, and I often end up at 31 or so. But it's still a goal.

glad to see ya back. I don't think the wide bars are as critical as most think, I rode with 580mm for a long while before going a little wider, yeah I like it a bit wider but old 580 and 620s work okay.

i would love to see you getting the bb off the new schwinn, I love all your videos!

Can't wait to see the 2020 Al Comp project

Plenty of people will tell you just save and buy the bike later. However, many of us know that's not how life works plenty of times. I might only have $250 and am just unable to save more due to "life interfering" or because I can't justify the initial expense (if maybe a first bike). Channels like yours showcase those upgrade-worthy bikes and state the many reasons why. With this info, it's going to get more people into the sport when they can get in on the cheap and upgrade how their checkbook allows at a later date.

Awesome! I love the Hydroform. I'm from Guatemala and It took me 3-4 months to find the Hydroform on Facebook Marketplace. Bought it used but the Idea is using it as a project bike like you did Kev.

THE MAN from motel 6 . WE WILL keep THE LIGHTS ON for you .

The return of the king

Yeaa! Kev, great you are back! Pedaling my late model Ranger on the local bike trails for cardio. Kinda looks like an Aluminum Comp.

I love this channel man, it inspired me to start biking and even start up my own small RU-vid channel keep doing what you’re doing Kev

on bar width: what you are looking for is forming a triangulated position instead of a parallelogram position with your arms, shoulders, hands and bars.

You should use a breaker bar... for the bottom brackets... in my job we use impacf guns and have breaker bars, when the bolts dont want to loose we use the breaker bar...

Welcome back Kev, glad to hear your dad is doing well.. can't wait see the up and coming videos..

The things I always start off with our lock on grips and pedals The lock on grips make it so much easier to upgrade stuff related to the cockpit down the road. Number three is always tires for me, I just feel like it makes the biggest difference. With my al comp, I started with those three things, then I put a dropper post, hydraulic brakes, and swapped to a one by nine my grow shift advent drivetrain piece by piece. The more expensive upgrades definitely make the biggest differences. Next, and probably final thing, is switching to an air fork.

I’d love to see a big box store project bike for commuting/gravel/urban riding on streets that aren’t really smooth.

Hey brother...great stuff. (like the house) For the lower bracket - Harbor freight 'breaker bar' $20 (i think)...Superior even to the Kobalt impact - and simple. Or, a regular 1/2 ratchet with a pipe...Just my 2¢

Glad to see you're back making vids. Hope all is well.. I was just recently gifted a HYPER explorer 29 that needs alot of TLC. I figure this would be the perfect project bike. The plan is going old school mullet 26-29. Front suspension was shot so that will be the first item on the list (front end) and can we quill stem. Then BB. It too is shot.

Grease !! It’s commonly known that even expensive bikes don’t get put together with grease . That’s why all good bike shops completely disassemble every bike then rebuild before handing over to consumer . Just listening to you casually twist that BB in all dry at the end is like fingernails on chalkboard to me. Anyways for some reason I’m hooked on your channel:) thanks .

Amazing info on you channel! I know this is an older video, but I am just soaking it all in. Turned 50 last year and really started to get into biking on paved trails and dirt roads. This year looking to put something together on a budget to try the local Mountain Bike trails in my area. Did not want to spend the big dollars yet on a name brand bike till I have a chance to see if that kind of riding is for me. Thanks for a great channel with well presented info!

Sometimes, steel will bond to aluminium. It happens a lot with steel spokes and alloy nipples.

I had the same exact problem with a bottom bracket I Installed on my trek 3 years ago I didn't have a torque wrench to make sure it was good and tight so I stood on my crescent wrench and just replaced all of it a couple months back man I could not get that thing to break loose for the life of me I got the non drive side off fairly easy but the drive side just wouldn't budge luckily my landlord owns a bike shop he took it up there and fought with that thing for about 15 minutes he finally got it off and ran a tool through there to clean the threads out but it was a pain in the you know what... luckily I replaced all of it with ifx and I really love the crank set awesome for the price

The reason the bottom brackets are so tight is because aluminum to steel creates galvanic corrosion- so the aluminum is expanding onto the steel as the steel pulls electrons out of the aluminum. A coating of anti-seize or just grease will significantly reduce the chance of corrosion.

I was thinking about buying the al comp, because it looked like a rest bike to build, but the bike shortage made me look a different avenue. I was talking guy at work who has a few bikes and I asked him if he wanted to sell any of them, he told me that he had a medium 2016 Specialized Rockhopper 29 and even though I’m about 5’5” I bought it. It’s used but it has duel hydraulic brakes and some other additional stuff put on it. I really had my heart set on the Schwinn al comp, they just weren’t out there. I am however thinking about going two gears on the front, but I’ll have to research it. Thanks for all the information you put out for us, it’s really helpful.

Hey Kev, love your videos! I ride a Schwinn Bonified 29er that I have FULLY upgraded. The frame and front wheel are the only stock parts! To remove the bottom bracket pieces I turn the bike upside down on the floor and use a 1/2" braker bar with an extension of a 24" piece of aluminum pipe on it. Still an "Umpf", but, it will brake loose.

A big breaker bar and a buddy to keep the tool pressed in. Give that a shot

Great to see you back, thank you for the content!

I already did, the only original part left on my FS XC is the frame, everything else have been upgraded, i believe in the range of 1 year. Also glad that your dad have gotten better/healthy now.

Finally a new video! one of my favorite channels!

Good trick is to use a bolt to hold the tool onto bottom bracket as you use a breaker bar on it . Then you don't have to worry about the tool moving.

I changed out the crank on the aluminum comp in my hotel room. As I remember I ran into the same problem. I eventually got it but it was a biotch.

Man, I feel some pain when people tell me they've fully upgraded a Axum after only owning it for a few months. I think about all the great bikes there are out there for the same cost of the upgraded Axum. If someone has as much fun upgrading a bike as they do riding it, that's one thing. As you said though, if you have $1,000 to spend there are so many LBS bikes that will take on much more advanced trails. Side note: I wonder if it's less about the torque, but the fact the steel and alu are fusing together since they don't user grease/anti-seize on the BBs. At least, that's what I noticed on my tear-down for the Axum.

The satisfaction from upgrading and tinkering doesn’t have a price tag. And passing someone on their several thousands $ bike is priceless when yours isn’t

Glad your back, regards to your dad. Your channel has inspired my own purchase and ongoing Boundary upgrade. Any direct dissimilar metal contact will start galvanic response. Agree with FOB life on anti-seize but then use lubricated torque spec.

I had the same issue removing the bottom bracket on my GT Agressor Pro. The solution? M8 screw and a couple of washers to hold the BB removal tool flush to the BB. A very large adjustable wrench. A 5ft Pipe. And my weight at the end of it. Came right off. But it did defeat: Me standing on a 15 inch wrench. That same impact driver. Air Impact wrench from my local mechanic.

Welcome back and I would like to see how good that craftsman impact is.

I can feel all of the relentless questioning of why you don't just buy a $1000 dollar bike in your explanation hahaha. We can relate brother, and we appreciate you trying to explain this. Very happy to hear that your Dad is doing well. Thanks for the video, and be safe.

Glad to see the hydroform again! one thing I'm not sure has been mentioned though is that with a new lower headset cup, the hydroform can take a tapered steerer fork. It has a oversized straight headtube (that's why it's so much wider then the stem) with a cane creek EC-44 lower cup, a tapered fork will drop in. I don't own a hydroform, but I work at a trek shop and the marlin series of bikes has the same style headtube. Another thing I noticed, is that there is some room between the seat tube and linkage that would lead me to believe that you could mount a taller shock giving you more travel, this would make the rear taller. But I think that could be counteracted by a higher travel fork, this will make the bike taller, but I think the bike could be brought back down to it's proper height with a 27.5+ wheelset. If my hunch is correct, this could be set up as a (maybe) 140/130mm bike to rival something like a Fuel EX-7 (without the knock-block lol) Sorry for the paragraph, but I noticed this stuff with all the close up shots of it in the video, if nothing else I hope this is informitave. EDIT: cane creek ec44 link

Yay finally... I have an al comp so Im Excited

Most Definitely looking forward to seeing a video of all the nut busting torque of that new craftsman impact wrench🔧🤗

I'm glad your father is back to good health.

I use a 4-ft breaker bar from an old pipe to get seas bottom brackets out

Great new video Good to see you back! My Hyper is running awesome.

got 1 for $19 the other day and plan on getting a bunch of second hand parts such as a decent crankset, seat post, handlebars, seat and brakes, ill probably end up buying new grips and tires and by then ill deem the bike safe, the next few months or so ill just get better wheels and maybe buy a pair of 2nd hand forks. Chains, cassettes and chainrings you should replace eventually anyway so i wont include that cuz i usually buy those even when i dont need it cuz i know ill eventually need it, i dont have and dont plan on getting bikes that are more than 9 speed so its easy but im keeping that crap derailleur cuz ive got a old friction shifter thats very simple and reliable. But all that will be quite affordable so im not mad this is kinda my thing i like to be resourceful and make use of what is already there, it really breaks my heart to see people leaving bikes to just rust and die out in the garage so im happy to take it off their hands and give it new life plus if theres ever an Armageddon having a ton of bikes is a good thing to trade for food and other resources heck having a bunch of well maintained bikes period is a good investment

Im glad you're back

I have upgraded my trek marlin 5 29er. I also have the boundary and the the aluminum comp.

I suggest using a breaker bar to get the bottom brackets off the new Schwinns. You could even slide another longer bar over the breaker bar to get more leverage.

Good to see you back. :) I ride mountains with 800mm bar and light flat trauls 74.0mm

Nice to see a video again on this channel

The width of the bars also go with the stem length so both can differ for width of bars.

Hey Kev! Thinking bout you yesterday! Good to gave you back!

How about a hardtail MTB to comfort/cruiser?

how-to videos are the best!

Well when I done up my CCM mountain bike the first thing I changed out was the forks I got another set of coil Forks I got a pair of our Estes with lockout and rebound adjustment then I upgraded the shifters rear derailleur with Shimano altice went with the wider range 11:38 rear cassette when was hyper Glide front derailleur and Shimano hyperglide crank and then I put Shimano m95 hydraulic brakes on it but the wheel set that was on that bike was fine they're just cheap double-walled aluminum wheels with joyetech machined aluminum hubs with quick release and it's worked out great and even my CCM Fitness road bike I just replace the group set with an entry-level Tourney Road groupset and surprisingly Apartment Store bites can actually be kind of fun it may say happy swim or hyper or even CCM but a lot of those lower-end bikes have really good hydroform aluminum frames it's this the cheap parts they put on them that make them not that great and if you fix them up overtime well higher-end lowland bite can be as good or even better did entry-level or mid-spec tracks snorkels Giants specialized Lauren bite and making it to stop that wasn't designed for this kind of cool

I love retro full suspension mountain bikes your my second favorite channel I just got a 1300 dollar 97 Trek y 5 for a 145 dollars and I upgraded the front end you should do some retro reviews my latest example is fully capable with excellent suspension fox vanilla and Mantou black forks

Welcome back. Love the content. I purchased a 2020 Taff with the 1x system. I can’t dial in the Pro-rush derailleur and the smaller rear cogs seem to put too much stress on the rear hub. I am considering upgrading the entire drivetrain to an SLX 11-speed. Just curious to see if you had any upcoming long term update videos on the Taff or Boundary with the pro-rush in the works?

I just found your channel today. And for some reason, I am at work and have had your videos playing nonstop for over 5 hours! (It is a slow day.) I find them entertaining even though I am an avid cyclist who will be doomed to ride most of the bikes you review in Hell for eternity as punishment. I love your review style and your honesty. I even got the idea to buy the Amazon e-bike for my wife so she will at least get out and ride the neighborhood or greenway with me.

To measure handlebar with needed you can use the pushup method, do a regular pushup, not triangle pushup of course, 😁 that will give you 0 mm handlebar, measure distance from end of one hand to the other, this gives me 800mm which I use. So one did a video on it I don't remember who.

I'm not sure why but I've not had good luck with impact drivers and BBs. I've found a long cheater bar is usually better.

I just bought a cheap atb 150$ bike from Walmart. Hope I don't crash and break a leg

Missed you very much. Welcome back.