We visited Le Mans (Pays de la Loire, France) in March 2023. We have used Le mans as a stop over place many times and used the excellent tram system to go into the centre but never visited the old town before. On this trip we discovered the medieval heart of Le Mans, a stunningly beautiful French city, from its huge historic cathedral to ancient cobbled streets lined with 15th century half-timbered houses and charming historic architecture. We have visited many beautiful French towns and cities but rarely do you find so many gems in one area. A visit is highly recommended and if you can stay near a tram station on the outskirts it's very easy to park and travel in by the excellent trams. We stayed in a cheap chain (Premiere Classe Hotel) near the University just off the motorway which is about £40 a night for a double ensuite room with a continental breakfast for an addition £5.00. Clean, functional and a perfect stop over.
Le Mans is found about 80 kilometres north of Tours, and south of Alencon. Known as the Cité Plantagenet, it is here in Le Mans that in 1129 Geoffrey Plantagenet married Matilda, daughter of Henry I of England and gave birth to Henry II. To many of course, Le Mans means nothing apart from a 24 hour racing spectacle once a year (if you are not interested in cars and car racing, it is best to avoid visiting Le Mans in the middle of June) however Le Mans also has a fantastic old town and is well worth a visit.
Unlike the medieval quarters of most towns and cities in France, that of Le Mans is completely separate to the modern day town. It lies high above the town and is almost spookily quiet after the noise of the thriving city below. The magnificent St Julien Cathedral can be seen from below and can be reached by walking up the steps from the car park in the Place des Jacobins. St Julien cathedral was built between the 11th and 15th centuries. It is a mixture of styles because of the long time taken to build it and is one of the largest cathedrals in France. At the main entrance of the Le Mans cathedral you can see a stone menhir which was raised by the prehistoric people who lived here in 4000-5000 BC. The menhir which became a pagan symbol for fertility was saved from destruction by Saint-Julien who came to Le Mans in the 4th century. Opposite Le Mans cathedral on the Place du Cardinal Grente is the Bishop’s house, a lovely 16th century building and next to it the Pilgrim’s house, also 16th century.
The old town has lovely narrow streets, stone houses, many with intricate details, colombage (timbered buildings) and the lovely slate rooves common to this area of France. There are numerous half-timbered medieval houses in Le Mans dating from the 14th to 16th centuries: the best known is the 'Maison du Pilier rouge', from the 16th century and on Grand Rue, with its easily recognisable red-painted wooden structure. Interestingly you can tell which houses are the oldest by the design. The houses that have upper floors that protrude forwards of the lower stories are the oldest (typically 15th century), with the extended upper floors serving to increase floor space upstairs, and to protect the entrance from rain. The best place to see this is the group of houses along Rue de la Rene-Berengere, where the Maison du Drapier and Maison de la Reine-Berengere stand either side of the slightly more recent Maison de l'Ave-Maria.
Within the old town you can visit the museum of Reine Berengere where you can see pictures and maps of the old Le Mans as well as popular art of the region.
Much remains of the Roman wall around the old town which is one of the best preserved in Europe. Four of its original five towers still remain. At one of these a lovely little medieval style garden has been created and within it are some of the stone balls hurled against the town by the Count of Salisbury during his assault of 1425.
Robert Doisneau the famous photographer captured its vintage beauty in an iconic image of an ancient house with a child in front holding a teddy bear. That was in 1962 but little has changed. Go there today and you’ll spot a teddy waving from the window of that house, an homage to the photographer! Successive owners have kept the spirit of Doisneau alive. Each has placed a teddy in the window, making this what has to be one of the best selfie spots in town! Wander the winding, narrow cobble stoned alleys and explore quirky shops and boutiques, wine bars and restaurants. It’s a great way to while away the day.
Every night in July and August Le Mans features an incredible light show put on in the streets of the old town. Various facades of the Plantaganet City are lit up with scenes created by Skertzo. A free spectacle not to be missed.
Film enthusiasts will recognise parts of the old city as many films include scenes of Le Mans. The most famous is ’Cyrano de Bergerac’ with Gerard Depardieu, and others include ‘Man in the Iron Mask’ and ’The 3 Musketeers‘.
6 сен 2024
