Thanks for the great job of explaining this process. I have a new CX 701 (Canadian eh) where the various gear positions are Z1, Z2, Z3, andZ4 with blank and H positions like yours. I was unable to find any other uTube site that did as good a job as you’ve done laying this out to new owners of the mini lathe. I think I can now transpose your positions to mine and get it to cut proper threads. 👍👍
The clearest, most understandable, most useful explanation of this subject I've ever seen! I love your style, Adrian. The precision of your explanations and clarity of your thought are most welcome. I feel like I'm right there in the workshop with you.
Man I needed this!! Thanks! Does anyone know what those little key bushing are called that join the gears? We need spares and can’t find them anywhere!!
This video is priceless for the new Warco owner. I had terrible trouble setting the gears up but now have the knowledge to set up for any thread. Thanks Ade
To make a check you can use the DRO. I always let the gears be engaged, I have no indikator. Fine information about setting the banjo up, when you have done it 20 times you can do it but first time I think it was difficult
I've just bought a Chester DB10, & their documentation is terrible. I'm pretty sure they don't know how to, either! Many thanks, now with your help, I know what I'm doing... makes a change... 🤣
Nice tip about using a piece of paper to set clearance on the gear drive faces. Just a little side question, you said 'loosen', would you ever use the term 'unloosen'?
@@ade63dug No, you didn't say it, I wanted an [English] second opinion Joe Pi keeps saying 'Unloosen' I asked him about it, he just said "Look in the dictionary" Which I did, and 'unloosen' is actually a valid word, and there, my friend, we have the difference between American English and British English. Give him his due, [as an American] he was right, but it grates on me a bit. Ha Ha. Cheers Buddy :-)
very good and helpful for me as a hobist, in a mini lathe I got shows set of gears W, Z1, Z2,Z3 fitted with top Z1=72t middleZ2= 76t bottom Z3= pom, in table for 0,05mm/r shows W =36 Z1 = 24-72, Z2= 76-19, Z3= -90 what could be the pitch for this setting ? 0,05
I enjoy your films , thanks very much.........my gear changing is a pain in the backside because the banjo does not have the shafts you have and it is really fiddly.....my 'c ' washers fall out all the time...I shall ' convert ' the banjo to shaft like yours , asap. Have you ever adjusted the headstock bearings...mine came loose within a month of me receiving the lathe new....??? ...Any advice regarding torque setting/ preload...? All the best
Thanks for this great video! 4 days ago I recieved my Warco Super Mini Lathe and have been cleaníng it up, removing that pooh from flies, baths or what is is. The mounted gears were cleaned and lubricated using Warco gear grease. The 9 loose gears arrived clean and not rosty, just to oil them. Hum.. Changing gears? Not for some time… There are other projects to go for before that. The link to Your video is now put into my library of utmost valuable videos.
That blood H forced me because I couldn't understand what the hell it was when there were spacers as WELL on the chart. CONSISTENCY would have been nice!! Cheers Ade
Hi ADES how would i use table indicator for imperial i am very new to lathe work, i have warco 918, i am trying to put a 14g thread onto a tube bar. John
just did a vid on my milling set up . shed talk 11 . you were one of many who wanted to know more , been a while since but hope it helps Cheers rob , Ade.
Nice video Ade, your showing the things that other youtube content providers tend to take for granted, but a lot of new people to maching find this invaluable, excellent keep them coming.
Thank you so much. I am finding that beginners really find it good.I spent many years training apprentices in a large toolroom and found that everyone has to start at the basics . I am getting a good response from many people doing basic things. As you say , there are many people showing what wonderful skills they have that beginners can aspire to , however, video's like this may help set them on their way , Cheers for your support , Ade.
Hello Ade I just made this channel so I can thankyou personally for making this video. ZooKeeper is an old work mate who I asked to help me out. I worked out how to create my own channel and her I am. I can't thank you enough as this vedio helped me out a lot. I am a carpenter by trade and have made you a nice handle for screw turning. Have you a P.O. box I can send it to?
Harry , firstly may i say hello, i am so glad that it helped , and purely that is the reason for me doing this channel . I would love to have the handle that you have made and it would be the first thing i have received .send me an email on "adrian.duggan@hotmail.co.uk" and give my regards to your mate zookeeper. May i also say that i do like to hear from other craftsmen, the art of working with our hands and eyes is sadly being lost on the youth of today . My trade as a toolmaker is sadly being watered down by the cnc and computer generation and it is great to see people picking it up at grass roots . you as a carpenter will know that it is about the feel for the material you are working with and metalworking is the same, i wish you luck with your endeavours mate , cheers Ade.
Cheers zookeeper, great to see you helped out yr mate , glad i was able to help in some way. i need a lot more subscribers before i need an account but my viewtime is looking dandy , pleased i am, pleased i will be , yoda again , lol cheers Ade.
I'm trying to setup my lathe for 1.5 mm threads but with the gear configuration listed on my machine the top gear doesn't reach the drive gear... am I missing something?
Thanks so much. Finally plucked up the courage to change the gears and have my first go at screw cutting today. Gear changing went OK thanks to your great video and my carriage does move the expected pitch per revolution, but my cutting is still all over the place. Do you show any actual cutting in any of your other videos. The instruction manual seems very odd to me. It makes no reference to the dial indicator!, telling you to stop the motor at the end of each cut then reverse it to return the carriage for the next cut with the lead screw still engaged. Is that how you'd do it?
My first two lathes also didn’t have a quick change gearbox. The first, a brand new EMCO Unimat 3, had the type of gear cutting using a hob, master thread piece, etc. I never bought that part. It was pretty expensive, clumsy, and you had to buy a master thread for every thread. I did but the headstock for drilling and milling. The problem with that lathe wax that with a .1 horsepower motor, you could get much done. It’s built like a jewel, and I still have it. My second is a 6” swing (3” radius for you British types) Atlas. That has change gears. Some company everntally made a quick change gearbox after I stopped using the lathe for much, but I never found it. I still have this one two. My third is a South Bend 10L Heavy w/2 1/4x8 headstock. That has a quick change. I bought that used in 1983. Great lathe. I bought some new parts from SB back then. Used it every day at my company. In 2002 I bought a SB FOURTEEN off eBay. Another great lathe with gearbox. My main lather. The truth is that while change gears can teach someone some about gear cutting, I wouldn’t ever recommend one. The problem is that realistically, most people just set the lathe to one average feed speed and never change it, because it’s too much work. They also almost never, or just never cut threads, for the same reason. I’ve known guys to cut a thread and just use that speed for everything else. Ades, and people like him are pros. They may mind, but they’ll do things properly. Most amateurs will start out enthusiastically, but over time become frustrated, and lose interest in changing gears. Think about it. You have gears for roughing. Then you have to change for finish. Then you have to change for roughing again. Over and over. Different speeds for different metals in the same project. Save up and get one with a gearbox. You’ll be happy you did.
Hey Ade, I realise this is an old video for you but just wanted to say it's still a great resource. I just got my wm180 this weekend, after some time watching your videos. So I'm embarking on the wonderful journey of learning how to use it. I was immediately confused by those gear charts and what H meant etc. But I knew you'd have a video to explain it all :-) Thanks again for sharing your knowledge
First of all, a FANTASTIC video !!! Everyone submitting a video on any subject should watch this to understand how it should be presented to the public. I took a machining course many years ago but never really followed up so I am still new to this. Now my question, I just purchased a bench top mini lathe and not quite sure what to do for imperial threading. The chart shows the gear set up for 19 TPI, but I want to thread some 5/16 x 18, how would I make that happen? Thanks again for your video and for any help you can provide.
Excellent i couln't find anything about that H anywhere else. So glad i found this video now i might have a chance at screw cutting. Your lathe looks very similar to my MX210 mini lathe except my spindle has 56 tooth
Using a hammer head to tap gear pairs on to their collars would have got me into trouble as an apprentice. You will rarely see a toolmaker using a hammer but they will have a well used lump of copper to hand for gently persuading parts to go together or part. Then you see people on here making tapping sticks out of brass which isn’t the right material either as tiny shards of sharp metal break away once it starts to burr over.
Hi Ade, loving the videos as I'm a warco large owner too. Thanks for sharing you knowledge and experience. Couldn't help notice the flags, are you in Pemb's?
@@ade63dug we're practically neighbours ☺ I'm up near Woodstock. Great work Ade! I'm Really enjoying catching up on your back catalogue and it's inspired me to get my Warco WM 240 up to shape as I like yourself wasn't entirely happy with the factory set up. I think we may have peered into the same box of tools at a car boot or auto jumble once or twice as I recognise you... Carew or Scolton Manor perhaps.
I love screwcutting, the Warco Supermini lathe is sometimes a little bit fiddly setting and adjusting the change wheels compared with some other lathes but ok if you're not in a hurry. With your experience of Warco lathes has anyone else experienced the problem I have with trying to get a chatter free facing cut. I have worked with many lathes, both in good condition and almost worn out, all with plain bearings and never failed to get a nice clean smooth facing cut. The Warco machine uses ball bearing head bearings and I can only think that these may be the cause of chatter unless I take great pains with speed, tool shape, and advancing speed.
Hi Ade, I've just noticed at 26:20 video time. you show the thread dial label. The information is on the label, that I needed . P=2mm (lead screw pitch) Mn0.6 ( thread gear pitch 0.6 Module) cheers Adam
Ade, firstly I would like to thank you for the time and effort you put into your videos and how you make them so easy to understand. I am looking at purchasing a Warco WM16 belt driven milling machine and wanted your opinion. Whilst looking at your videos, I got hooked on your lathe videos as well. This made me also look at purchasing a Warco lathe. I have owned a Hobbynat MD65 for years and although it works perfect, the toolpost is its weak point in as far as little is available in for QCT holders. The WM180 has the same centers as the MD65 but only has a tool height of 65mm. The footprint is roughly the same. I was comparing the spec of the WM180 and the WM240 and was thinking that if I am going to buy a new lathe, I might as well get one bigger than already have, however you seem to do all sorts of turning and milling jobs on your 180. Is there a reason you purchased the 180? If you changed would you go for a larger one or do you stick to the 180 for its compact footprint?
Hi Ade, great video as usual. How do you set the indicator dial for imperial threads? Or, do you just pick any number and stick to it? Have you though of using chainsaw bar oil to lubricate the change wheels. It has a "non fling" additive to help keep it on the chain.
Evening Ade not sure what you are doing for work but a college should snap you up.Your tutorial skills are the best i have seen and knowledge is fantastic.Keep up the good work.You have inspired an old tool maker to go and get a lathe and a miller.Keep up the good work Legend.
Just want to say many thanks for a great video - I don’t usually leave comments much, but after having my lathe for 6 months, I now know feel good about using the gear feature for thread cutting and that’s down to your video - again - brilliant 👍
Great video. I just got my lathe shipped from China and it turns out to be exactly the same as yours, only it's not a Warco but a WM210v, with a 38mm spindle bore, MT5 in the back plate and 850w motor. Very pleased so far with accuracy, but after roughly three to four hours of duty, one of the belts snapped. I did think they were a bit tight, but did not adjust them. I have ordered a couple from the UK and they should be here on thursday. Could you please do a video on belt tensioning? This I have heard is a science on its own, but since you have changed your motor once, i´ll accept any advice coming from you. Thanks :-)
Thanks for your support. i will touch on this subject soon . the basic idea is to tension until you get no belt slip under heaviest cut you would normally do and then leave it at that. keep the belts clean and free from oil to avoid contamination helps . unless your belts were stupidly tight i think you may have had a duff belt. use a quality belt like a Gates will help. Cheers Ade.
Thanks. I did see today when I took it apart that the belt pulleys were out of alignment. The motor pulley was 2mm off. That can probably not be good, so i adjusted them to the same plane.
That would definatley explain premature failure . mine was a bit out when it was new and i sorted it , i am still going on my original belts after many hours of abusive use,
My question Ade is how did you know that one gear or the other was on the outside because the manual is as clear as mud. But as always very informative video.keep em coming
Thank you, after two months that I have the lathe, thanks to your video I understood how to make the threads. I subscribed to your channel waiting for new videos. Thanks from Italy ;)
Dear Ade,another good well presented video,just what I needed as the manual kept me guessing about the gear confuguration.Always a pleasure to see a man who knows what he is doing a shed, some think it's boys and toys, little do they know.
Very informative. I have a Chester MB8VS which is much the same as yours. I am going to try and fit DRO to mine, could you let me know how the cross slide slide is fitted to yours. Cheers.
The DRO on mine is a magnetic strip and pick up head very similar to the operation of a digital caliper and is not the most accurate . the fixed rail is purely an angled bracket running the length of the cross slide side with the pickup mounted to the bed . this is very simple compared to the optical type of DRO scale. i will get some shots of it in future video's , Cheers Ade.
If you were buying the WM180 again would you go with it with the factory fitted DRO on already fitted. Would it be better in your opinion to go with the lathe with no DRO fitted & save £255 & put that saving towards a better quality & more accurate DRO that you would fit yourself. Thanks.
Hello Ade, another great learning video, Im a lot older than you and a complete novice at using the lathe, but hopefully, if I can take it in over time, this will help me alot. thanks Ade. regards Colin.
I see the gears running here true. In my lathe, the joiner sleeve is out of center, by more than 0.2mm. Does anybody have an idea, where to puchase better ones?
Veoma dobar video majstore...uskoro kupujem Holcmann strug mali i ovaj tvoj video mi je pomogao da razumem odmos i prenos za rezanje navoja.,hvala mnogo ...cheers mate
Hi Ade, Any chance you can tell me the diameters of the two gears that are used for the threading dial. I need to make the gears for my self, knowing the outside diameter would help me determine the pitch of the gears. 42t & 40t Cheers Adam
Apologies for keeping you waiting Adam , 42 tooth gear is 27.7mm diameter 40 tooth is 26.6mm diameter both are 12.88 overall thickness with a gear width of 11.88 the bore is reading 8.04mm with a 3mm keyway . Cheers Ade.
Great video. I have a weiss 10x22 feed speed chart at the end of the video confused me. What relevance does it have to thread cutting? I think on my machine it has to be on a designated letter. The instructions are terrible. Another thing I dont understand are those little vertical black lines seemingly randomly placed on the chart
Thanks to RC Model Geeks, I found your channel. Very informative. I am in the US and just got one of these type of Lathes and as we have to beat our own drum in the US and can't seem to join the rest of the intelligent world in the metric system, we are stuck using the imperial system often (Though I seem to get more chances to go metric these days) but in those imperial instances, there are two common TPI units we use which are 18 and 24 are not on the chart. 19 I personally have never seen. as well as a couple of others. Do you know a way to get a thread which is close to these imperial TPI's? Thank you for your very informative videos.
This particular lathe can be bought in an imperial version in the uk . I think it just uses an imperial lead screw and probably a different thread dial and gear for the longditudinal axis . It may be possible to get these parts to convert . My manual does give the set up charts for the imperial version that does cover the TPI you need . It may also be possible using some custom gearing on the geartrain . Cheers Ade.
Thanks Keith, this was a request from a subscriber who was struggling , I spent many years training apprentices and i am finding that i am getting a good viewer response by showing basic things . onwards and upwards , cheers Ade.
