Your video gave me an idea. I'll use the L bracket that came with DRO, and attach reading head to the longer wall 80mm, and shorter wall 40mm attach to 40mmx40mm 80mm long L bracket, which would be bolted to moving column. The scale just bolted to fixed column, with opening facing away from the flying chips.
Hi,Ade. I somehow missed this DTI holder and box build. I have to say yours is the best version of Stefan's low profile holder I've ever seen. Five star job on this build 👌
Thanks for your helpfull S50 build videos!! I only have a lathe with a milling attachment, to tackle the S50, so wish me luck! Looking fwd to the rest of your S50 greatness!
I rubbed my oil pourer and a Tormach CNC mill appeared so can vouch that there is a workshop genie all be it he only makes an appearance once in a while. However, the workshop gremlins are always waiting to pounce😂
I’ve always been fascinated by the inner workings of clocks and the high degree of workmanship required to build and repair them, These videos are providing a great insight into how intricate these mechanisms really are. All credit to you Ade as you learn and develop news skills and methods to master your new hobby. Well done 👍👍
Hi Ade, 13:00. I like a lot of people love watching Steve on the repair shop and I often wondered how he picks up the centre on worn holes, perhaps he uses this method.
Very interesting video Ade. The fixture plate is a great idea. Enjoyed all the machining on the bearing. Great price on the arbour press. I sent you an email a little while ago. Hope it arrived? Cheers Nobby
Hi Ade, I always enjoy you vidios, the varied content is always interesting. Just a thought on your bushes, the usual practice is to use the pentagonal shaped reamers on the bore of the bushes until the pivot bearing just goes in then use a tapered burnisher to polish and work harden the bearing bore. Yes this does produce a tapered bore but reduces the bearing area to help reduce drag when the clock is operational. It also helps to retain a little oul in the bearing, a plain drilled hole in the bush will work but a polished bore helps to slow wear down on the pivot. I'm not telling you what to do just thought the thought might be of help. P.S where do you get the special oil can from, tried rubbing the one in my shed absolutly nothing, spose I'll have to get the credit card out. Thanks again for you great vidiods
Hi Ade, I want to do a similar project both on my lathe and my mill. I’ve watched all your videos on the subject and you mention links to the necessary parts. Please can you point me in the right direction to find the parts list. Also have you ever done a video on obtaining materials for hobby machining? Love your work and the relaxed style of presentation.
That I enjoyed. Only one bit of advice for your future reference, C Bennis Supplies & Services are worth your looking up, because they supply very good quality oils. I know there is also a clockmaker's supplier who services you are doubtless using. So there will be nothing wrong with the oil you have used. Just that, I use an ISO 22 needle oil with an additive to aid its being cleaned from clothing in washing machines. This is a synthetic oil & is obviously longer lasting than a non-synthetic one. This used on my collection of micrometers. Please do not ask me how I got into having around 40 mics & all the standards to keep them accurate!! I also use their ISO 32 Sewing machine oil as a slide oil because it has fabulous rust prevention properties & I find my Super seven saddle floats on it. Clearly these two oils have got to be kept well away from roller bearings, because they will break them.
OI Sunshine, Everyone knows the proper way to wind a spring is to run the chuck in reverse at 500rpm for 3.257 seconds with rubber gloves on and wearing a condom for safety. ARMCHAIR WARRIORS RULE !!!!!!. Best wishes Ade, Mal.
Nice to watch another video from You. Here drone flying is the major interest but making a chain tension part for the chain saw is waiting. Interesting and entertaining video. Being a child, several clocks were disassembled but never tampered with their springs. Some kind of instinct told it could be dangerous... About the chuck key. The teacher in metal works had a reputation of being hard. (On guy got thrown up on a 2 meter high cupboard when running the lathe backwards and not reacting on the noise.) The first lesson was just: "Don't ever leave the chuck key in the chuck. Then he pointed out a hole in the opposite wall several meters away, and told it was made by a flying chuck key. For newbies, it was the necessary "order". Maybe I fell back and pointed that out but hopefully in a respectful way. Still try to keep that in mind even as the lathe usually, not always, has a chuck protection not going down, prohibiting starting the lathe.
The Aussie 'Artisan Makes' did this as well and seemed to think it made a difference. I haven't used my 180 yet (because I have not been able to sort out my workshop). Plan to replace compound slide as per one of your videos, but does the 180 suffer from this issue as well?
Sunshine it is only a matter of time before you take a chunk out the back of your left hand AND never leavr the chuck jey in the chuck even for a moment. You need some serious machine shop practices training
Fantastic work as always! Thanks for posting! On a separate note, do you remember the series of vids you made building your z Axis on your mill....I can only find one. Have the others become lost please?
"Waving a sausage in the Albert Hall" lol that was very diplomatic Ade! Think you were thinking of something rather more earthy! Max Grant's of the Swan Valley Machine Works Australian saying is a " C** k in a shirtsleeve" lol
Yes .thanks for noticing . First to spot it. I do like to throw one in to the mix now and again but they usually go un noticed . I was doing a corporate video once and managed to throw the words "But plug " in and it was signed off and never noticed . Small wins can be fun . Cheers as always and thanks for your support . Ade.
Hi Ade, Just bought a Warco 180 and a WM14b to start machining. Trying to avoid obvious mistakes and intend to bolt it down to a sturdy bench through a heavy steel plate (to add mass), was wondering if the single hole at each end of lathe bed on the 180 is sufficient, or should I be thinking about drilling extra holes so there are 4, not 2?
Great stuff Ade. By coincidence I’ve been given an nearly identical clock that doesn’t work and this making me think perhaps I should have a go at fixing it!
I did stretch it out and that did work . new ones a tenner each . and oiled ready to go . I am going to keep the clock for myself so I went for it . Cheers Ade
Very late to the party, but that comment "Take the backlash out or else it will pull down" is the kind of throwaway comment that's *absolute* gold! That's such a good tip. I've watched a load of your videos and most of them have these little gems in them. 😍 I'm currently in the process of fettling, improving and upgrading a little Chinese 7x14. It's been fairly demanding work given my lack of even benchwork experience, let alone with machine tools but I have learned an awful lot, and your videos have helped tremendously (along with others like Steve Jordan, Artisan Makes and We Can Do That Better), so thank you. 👍👍👍😊 To be fair, the 7x14 I have, seems to have been QC'd during a visit by the local Communist Party chairman 😆and it wasn't too bad out of the box (although obviously all the gibs needed adjusting and the plates holding the saddle to the underside of the bed were badly adjusted and rough as old Harry into the bargain). I've been mostly focusing on getting everything as tight as it can be whilst still having good free movement. It came with a 1HP motor (750W, supposedly) and so if the motor is actually 1 HP, I figure the lathe needs all the rigidity help it can get! 😄 I've had it to pieces three times so far over the course of a year, and this last time should be the second to last (I've one more batch of upgrades to make but they're things like a 2 HP three phase motor with a VFD and an electronic lead screw Honestly, given I do have the space for a Myford ML7/Super 7 or even a Boxford AUD/BUD/CUD, and now I know the prices these actually go for, rather than what they're priced at, I sort of regret not getting 'old iron' a bit, but even if I didn't have the space, I think a WM180 like yours would have been a better choice. Like I said though, I've learned a lot, though all the adjusting fettling and improvements so spilt milk and all that. 😉
Wow Steve . That is by far the largest comment I have had . Thanks so much for finding the time to talk . I don't deliberately set out to teach but sometimes my little observations can help. I have been upgrading a mini lathe for some time and I hope it will end up being the machine ideal for clockmaking which was the plan at the outset. There may be some useful stuff for you there with the motor conversion . Thanks again and Cheers Ade
The beating refers to the beating of the clock and I made a bush . Why is that funny .? Yeah I know . LOL . got away with it though . Thanks for watching mate . Cheers Ade.
