I have a similar lock box just to start...but I bolted it down on both the bottom and the back (Wall and metal shelf, (plus it’s installed high up about 7’ above the floor)) so there’s no mounting holes exposed. Thanks for the warning. It’s a place to start for me. 👍
THIS IS AMAZING! It is the same combination King Roland had for the airlock in planet Druidia! and the same combination on President Skroob's luggage, lol
this is why I have trigger locks on all of my firearms!!! I have a safe similar to this and I welded uo the holes with a mig welder. problem solved! great vid!
Thanks Gear Obsession, you make a great point ... I also think its worth pointing that many of these "so called safes" are just tin boxes with a low grade digital lock, these safes are no match for a pinch bar or a cordless angle grinder
Hey Fred! Thanks for the shout-out! You just made my year!! And thanks for the warning! I had to run and check my safe, but it's good. Great video, helpful and informative as always!!
As you said,anyone can look on RU-vid and learn how to get into a simple safe.One guy opened a safe with a potato.It seems that not only is the easily reached reset button a weak spot,but the other weak spot on these safes is the solenoid spring which is a part of the switch(door lever).When a person slams on the top of the opening lever,the pressure from the hit makes the solenoid spring bounce.If you play wih the door lever while hitting the top of the safe,or the top of the lever,it will open.I learned that by watching about 8 RU-vid videos showing just how unsafe these safes are.
Even though you mount it it's still most likely made of pretty mild steel. Bring a battery powered hand drill and a rod and drill your own hole to push the button and you're in in less than 30 seconds. You can get decent safes that size (still requires mounting though because of size) but you're not getting them for pennies. They make use of hardened steel inserts to prevent drilling especially the vulnerable places and they use a much better locking mechanism. Typically the best of them use either a double bit lever key locking system or a mechanical or electronic combo just like the ones used in large "real" safes and bank vaults. The locks themselves are not cheap so even there we have a price point much higher.
It's a vetting process when you apply for FAC. Have to have a rated and secure safe before you can even buy a gun. There's also unannounced visits by them at any time to inspect your firearms and storage. The one thing we have over the US is you can add a calibre variation to your FAC and once approved at the local police station on application, you can go out and buy another gun straightaway, no waiting period.
we have that ammo and gun stored separately law here to, but there is a subsection in the firearms act that no one seems to bother to read that says you can keep them together if there in a safe or vault.
Besides if you have any uncovered holes just put in a bolt and on the inside put a new locking nut or just two nuts counter tightened so that when the outside of the bolt if turned the bolt just turns. But hey if you're that aware you're most likely not going to use that safe anyway. Or hey perhaps you are. If you're smart you have a real safe hidden and a cheap one like that less hidden. So if a burglar stumbles on it first he use his time on that first or if home robber comes by and demanding you to give him all your valuables then you show him this safe - containing a few bucks, some silver jewelry and perhaps a few silver coins or whatever you can come up with seems plausible to be all there is to get here.
Great video, but the problem is only when you don't have that much items on the Security Safe, if you are like me I have it filled with a lot of things so it would be basically impossible to get to the button. Anyway great video like always.
In the middle of the night last night my safe randomly started beeping repeatedly on the proceed button. Unfortunately I don’t know the code. Could anyone tell me why this is? Unfortunately my landlord has the key for the safe which I am yet to get. The beeping has continued hours later …
I got this safe and was very disappointed by the LOUD BEEPING THAT LETS EVERY ROBBER KNOW EXACTLY WHERE YOU ARE, BANG BANG! I was also disappointed by how easy it is to hack the safe with the holes in the back. However, there are fixes for at least 2 things wrong with this product! So, if you have bought this and now are thinking of taking it back, there are a couple of things you can do to make this safe BETTER, or should I say suck less? First, you can disable the red button inside the safe. Second, you can disable the beeping so that you can use your safe discreetly! To disable the red button, open the safe, unscrew the back plate to the locking mechanism. Once open, look for a small circuit board sitting on two rubber pins. Gently take it off the rubber mounts and flip it over. Disconnect the cord going from the red button to the circuit board. That will disable the red button, shutting down that hack! Turning off the beeping is a little trickier and you have to be VERY careful or you could brick the safe and make the key pad unusable. Pay close attention to how the various wires are connected to the circuit board, especially the strip of wires in the plastic strip. There is a right way and a wrong way to insert this, so save yourself some headache later and note how each of the wires plugs into the circuit board (there are only 3 and 2 of them you can only screw in one way, so this should be easy. Once you have the circuit board disconnected, look for the small round black thing with a hole in the top. THAT is the ANNOYINGLY LOUD SPEAKER. To disable it is simply a matter of cutting off the power circuit to that device. If you flip the board over, you will see two printed wires on the board that go directly to that device. What you want to do is break the circuit by cutting one of those "wires". The "wires" are actually printed circuits on a board, so the way to cut it is to scrape ONLY one of those two wires off the board with a sharp knife or a razor blade. If you are looking at the board and the speaker is at the top of the board, I chose the circuit on the right to disable. You don't need to scratch off the entire circuit, just cut it enough to break the connection. Very gently and carefully scratch a gap in that connection until no metal remains in the gap on the board. Be SURE not to muck with any of the other connections on the board or you will brick your safe. (Well, it can still be opened with a key....). Once that is done, reconnect the 3 other wires back to the board and place it back on the rubber mounts. BEFORE you put the back plate on, reconnect the red button, set a NEW combination (because your old one got wiped when you disconnected the battery!) and test it to make sure it works and THEN disconnect the red button wire. That red button will no longer work, so make sure you DO NOT put your keys in the safe or you may get locked out and have to get a crow bar to break back in! Once the red button is disconnected and you have verified the NEW code you just put in, you can then replace the back panel and screw it in with the 4 screws. Congrats! You now have a SILENT safe that can't be hacked with the red button. Hope this helps!
As with many things, you get what you pay for. It all depends what you are trying to protect from whom. This is definitely not a gun safe. Maybe a cookie safe... ;-) Great review, Fred, as always!!
I'll add another minus, Fred. There are dozens of videos on RU-vid about opening these keypad locks by prying off the plastic keypad, exposing the wire harness. You simply cut the battery leads and connect them directly to the solenoid that closes the bolt(s), bypassing the keypad. You know enough about electronics to understand how simple it is to do that. No more force is required than opening a can of house paint.
Which of course doesn't reset the code, so (hypothetically, if one were to do this) if the safe wasn't yours it could be opened with no one left wondering why their code no longer works. But don't bypass any code for any safe that isn't yours.
Some safes have a black cover. I bought one and it came with a cover. Unfortunately, the circuit died so I had it replaced. The problem with that safe is not the reset button being easily accessible but its reliability. I highly discourage this safe. I will dispose mine.
If that doesn't work, the old paper clip in the manual lock will work. These are not keyed well at all - I had to open one due to a keypad issue that was mounted well and the paperclip did the trick.
This only works if 1) You have a metal rod like that and 2 ) if the person doesn't have it mounted. If the guy robbing you doesn't have one of those magically on him...he won't get in, and if it's bolted to the wall he won't be able to do that. Throw that rod out the window, and then try to do it. You have way too much time on your hands.
Easy fix if you dont want to mount it you can put bolts in the holes tightened with a nut from the inside so that when someone tries to undo the bolt to get to that button the nut on the inside will just spin without undoing the bolt. so no one will be able to reach that button unless the door is open. =)
I go out of my way trying to not support China’s economy. I rather support my country’s economy. Having said that, imho this safe is still decent if you follow manufacturers recommendation. Thank you for pointing out that security flaw. If I can not find a screw on cap that fits the threads, I will be trying to open the safe door and see if I can swap out that switch for something better. If possible a momentary switch with comes with a hard cover. I do not see this to be a bad enough reason to not buy it, especially if you cant afford a better designed safe. None the less that was an important flaw you pointes out. Thanks!
theres a lot easier access which is guaranteed. All you have to do is hit the top in the middle with a fist while turning the black knob simultaneously. keep hitting while turning nob and it will just pop open. Works better if u hit top of safe while on carpet.
+Michael Dilorenzo Just tried this. Literally didn't give this comment any merit. My girlfriend walks over to the safe. smacks it and it opens... roflmfao. this works.
+Gear Obsession your fat dumb and this works. make a longer useless video next time. PS if you hit the red button you reset the code which im guess people don't want, as most are trying to get into a safe that's not theirs. Otherwise... they would have the code? lol
+Gear Obsession you think your ways does work?(it does only if u forgot YOUR combo) i just tried his and yes it does work. with your way, you have to know they combo to begin with which most people wouldnt. hence trying to get into a safe without the code. ive seen alot of dumb youtube videos and this is in my top 10. waaay to slow and over repetitive. doesnt make sence. id say get a new hobby (:
I have this same safe. I removed the button, simple solution. I removed the button and its just 2 wires now that i soldered the ends and wrapped them in electric tape so to change the code u have to open it, remove the tape and touch the wires together so no chance of getting into it that way
David Wilson I all depends what is in the safe. I guess one idea is to purposely block the reset button with an item or just tape a little cup over the button.
Uhhh...That hole isn't available to anyone, because it is a bolt hole that will be against a stud or cement floor or wall, and mounted correctly with the correct mounting hardware. Any moron that doesn't mount a safe is...well, a moron, because you simply walk off with it. What's the point of buying any safe if it isn't secured properly. So this video is impertinent.
Thanks for the warning, but honestly something that small should be bolted down. Once something is portable it's as good as open / stolen anyhow. Good find though.
so now that I've been educated and I see just how thin the side walls of that thing are, I need to bring a drill so that IF it's mounted I can make a new hole to slip the rod into ;)
I had a similar safe designed for storing a hand gun. The locking latch is spring loaded so if it wasn't mounted, all you had to do was tip it on its side and bump it against the floor. Inertia would "bounce" the latch and the spring-loaded door would fly open. I think it was an ADG Sports safe from Gander Mountain. Thanks for the warning. :)
Dude, you need to move along a bit faster. There's waaay too much filler and repetitive comments in this video. Just get to the point. This video could could have been 1 minute long. and BTW, even if it was properly mounted (bolted), you can use a hand-bent slim-jim and reach the reset button from the front side (theres a youtube video on it).
Been told so many times i'm better off moving to the States, it's not that simple. I love my island, even if i hate the way it's run, but if every shooter here moved to places it was easier to shoot, then there's no way we can keep shooting alive here. It's hanging on a thread as it is.
You know that the holes are supposed for screwing it to the flor? Anyways the design was poor, because there is still a gap in the front wich allows for a shim to be inserted....
The amount of stupidity in these comments saying I'm not going to keep anything valuable in this safe. Well this only applies if you DO NOT mount the safe. You're basically screwed if the batteries die and don't have the keys. LOL. But good tip on the video.
Me and a buddy of mine hade of honeywell safes that were the same not this model but his key fit my safe and mine fit his and opened them honeywell is no good
