I'll say it again... A headband mounted GoPro ("Other small branded recordage cameras available at retail places" lol) would help ya, and, I guess it'd be morerer 'VR' like for us haha 🤔👍 😎🇬🇧
As an Oreilly’s employee, it makes me happy that you actually get the quality stuff and that you’re using our products! I work commercial and there is so many shops that just buy the cheapest stuff around the area or ask for a even lower price for the parts but they won’t pass the discount to the customer lol. Also! Yes that orange part on the pad is the extra break in that import direct adds!
i had a starter put on the silverado that went a year before being dead and probably needing to be rapped on- sign of a cheap rebuild i probably paid top dollar for
@@santatigerclaus I had them test a starter it passed. When I took it apart the gear box was completely smooth. Nothing like having to prove that their parts are crap when under warranty. At least when they were Checkers you knew what you were getting.
I've had a lot of problems with O'Reilly parts not so much import direct although I have had problems with them as well primarily boots for CV axles breaking prematurely The pads and rotors from import direct are fine Also the optima rebuilt alternators are just basically boat anchors they are a complete garbage
Hi Ray, I had an issue with a leak in my Honda Civic 2002 that would slowly empty the system after one week of filling it up. I replaced the condenser, receiver dryer and all o-rings several times. Multiple repair shops filled it up six or more times with refrigerant but the leak was still there. The last repair shop even tried leak detection with nitrogen. After almost one year I finally found the leak in the pressure switch which was leaking through the electronics part (plug). I have put a video with images on youtube where the dye is clearly visible inside the pressure sensor plug. The accord has the same pressure switch, might be a similar issue.
Up north we eventually have to drill the heads off those rotor screws so they usually are not put back on. The joys of winter road salt, it gets everywhere
Another excellent, informative, and fun video! The pace is DEFINITELY faster in your own shop, I think you're happier being your own boss, and it shows. Looking forward to part 3 of the Honda!
Just for sake of spillage, ive cut the bottom of an oil bottle off to use it as a funnel hey its free and comes in handy. If your putting in 5 quarts of oil 1 bottle at a time and dont or cant find a funnel it works pretty good.
Old school trick : Put on first a piece of rubber hose on the tip of the spark plug when inserting it in the head and screw it a few turns in and then pull off the hose. Do not use any power tools when installing spark plug. You can easily cross tread the tread in the cylinder head.
Nothing against Ray or any other tech on RU-vid but doing brakes in southern states compared to northern Ontario Canada is dra sticky different . The amount of prevention against rust and salt intrusion is way higher . Lots more cleaning and way more attention to anti-sieze so the brakes work free and properly .
I use brake cleaner in the valve to look for bubbles and then use the air hose to clear it. That way it doesn't leave any residue. The penetrating oil may be tricking your A/C sniffer. You could test the penetrating oil away from the car with the sniffer to see if it activates.
Have not done brake pads on the rear of these newer cars on the rear . Just got the tools to do it . 2016 Kia Soul . Thanks for showing how the tool works . Next the sparks plugs . 34,000 miles .
Thank you Ray for another great video. I just wanted to contrast you with other mechanics I've dealt with in my long life. My brother recommended a mechanic he liked, "Because he saves you money." I needed an inspection and brakes on my 99 Mazda and had dropped it off there while I visited my brother. Hours later when I picked it up, out comes this old guy smelling like liquor and mint telling me the car was done. After I paid and was getting my keys he said," Your right front caliper leaks a little so you might want to keep an eye on it." What? How? Are you kidding me? Anyway, thanks again
I worked with a mechanic who was notorious for not cleaning the oil off new rotors. I honestly think he did it on purpose. He’d come back from a test drive after a break job. The wheels would look like they were on fire and just out. 💨 💨💨
Ray really needs something that can hold his camera so he can operate with two hands. Perhaps a body cam? Or maybe something that goes up on his head so we can get a view as he sees things. I don't know what it would be so that he doesn't feel dumb when wearing it, but it should be something so he perform his duties without needing to hold the camera. Thoughts everyone?
I thought it also, but he does very well one handed and he does set up the camera in a good position when he needs two hands. So I would say the more options the better, but he's doing better than many others on RU-vid with filming
Honda motorcycles started using that pattern way back in the dawn of time. Stripped out a few screws before figuring out to grind off about 1/16 of an inch so the flutes seated all the way down.
I'm a bit of a n00b at this stuff. At 10:00, you use an impact screwdriver on those slotted screws. Is there any reason one should use that specifically as opposed to an impact-rated slotted bit driver for a socket and impact gun?
At his last shop the first thing Ray would have done is connect the A/C machine and do a vacuum check. Now all he can say is "I replaced that valve last time, it can't be the valve". 🤣🤣 The trouble with these successful YT channels is they have lost sight of the reason why they started the channel in the first place: to make money. Rays primary source of income is YT, not his mechanics business.
I just seen a youtuber with 3 million subscribers and he made 2 million in one year, That would put Ray at about 300,000 per year , not bad for a mechanic. How do you think Eric O ran out and bought a 50,000dollar alignment rack?
hvac tec here: dont measure with the fan on. keep it off and measure at the lowest point. the gas will go down naturally and concentrate so you get a better trigger. the device also triggers off the oil, remove the oil before measuring. easy test is always to stick it into the drain under the car. for annoying leaks you can backfill with nitrogen to increase leakage. but you have to do a REAL good vacuum and refill before starting the compressor again or you will destroy it.
Ray, also an AC tech here (retired) as has been said by others the leak detector can be triggered to alarm by the penetrating oil you used in the valve, the same goes for many soaps and cleaners. To prove the point use the detector to sniff the oil can nozzle. For very small hard to find leaks using hi pressure nitrogen inside the ac system can greatly help . Also do not test with the fan running at any speed the leak you are looking for is very small fan air disturbs or dilutes the concentration of the refrigerant.
Tightening the disc retaining screws with an impact drive is a mistake, they only need to be hand tight. Putting anti-seize on the threads is also a good idea.
Hey Ray, great to see your new path working out, a seriously talented guy like you and your family deserve every success. Just make sure to take time for yourself and family too. Don't burn yourself out. Have yourself a great day
It's just so strange with the silence... No obnoxious music, people talking or that annoying phone ringing. I got so used to the distractions it feels weird not hearing them now.
Ray I work at a Honda dealership we had a customer with that body style accord couldn’t find the leak. Dyed the system and of all things finally the tech put the black light on the puddle of water out of the drain and saw dye from the evaporator . We have done our share of evaporators on that generation of accord.
You're quite engaging in your presence And presentation Ray, never boring. Your channel is now in our top ten. Glad to see your shop progress thru these past weeks.
That was a really good video, Ray. I know that to you, its probably pretty basic bread-and-butter stuff, but you never fail to make it entertaining. Thanks for turning my dark grey day a few shades lighter.
I liked your vids before and would skim through and watch on occasion but since you moved into your own shop, I find I enjoy them more and watch all the new ones. Maybe its because you are less restricted or the vids have more of a "vlog" type vibe? I enjoy the personal aspect and going about your everyday life activities. Whatever it is, keep doing it.
Yeah me too, I used to watch some of his videos but now I watch every second of every video. I also like that he has more time to explain how things work now (no angry boss that want him to work faster and talk less). I hope that with his youtube revenue he will be able to continue to do this.
I think it's the change from "customer states...some bs" to "doing good work for customers who appreciate it" content. The shock effect from those junkers he got to diagnose and barely fix at his last job wears off and gets old quickly.
33:25 Maybe my imagination but I dont see Ray taking all the nice little extra steps that he used to do such as cleaning and de-rusting the hub before mounting the new rotor. Other little nice things also seem to be missing. Might just be my imagination. Still good work,
The way Ray bring break clean onto the screen plus the sound effect is my second favorite part of these vids. Second only to "Doodle Doo" from the phone. If it's at all possible, please make your new phone ring the same way so we can get back the beloved sound effects.
Great Vlog as always, the 11 in the spark plug number denotes the pre-set gap as 1.1mm, most pre-set plugs have a plastic or cardboard sleeve covering the nose of the plug in the box, but still best to check the gap before fitting it. Best wishes for the future
Thank you very much for sharing Sir. Your comment is one of the primary reasons why I enjoy reading through the comments in these AutoTube videos. I'm a Shadetree mechanic and had never heard of the 11=1.1mm. That's brilliantly simplistic. Now all I gotta do is try to remember that.😄
Over the years I've found that the cheapest customers complain the loudest if there is a problem because they wouldn't pay for quality parts.....so when I have a customer that wants to cut every corner to just get by on a job I say no and decline the job..cuts the headaches by 90%
The SAAB 900 had actuated front calipers with the handbrake, and they were a pain with the road salt and associated rust in the UK! P. S Great to see plenty of the 'nice and shiny' action!
@@FenrisianAle but they are at least a separate brake with separate pads. Having been a Citroën mechanic I really appreciate the amazing engineering. They are also on the heavy end of the car unlike Saabs where they were on the rear and Saabs would just take off down a slippery hill with the parking brake locked up🤣 Oh and btw it's Citroën not citreon🤔🤣 Oh and the front brakes are inboard and protected from road salts. Amazing car. I miss the heck out of them here in the US. I used to ice race my Citroëns, convertable and all and generally came in first place against 100 other cars and drivers. Still have a trove of trophies to prove it. 😎
I did a lot of brake jobs on 79-87 900s. I wore out 2 of the factory piston turning tools. I finally made my own tool out of some flat stock and 3/16" drill bit shanks. The actuator levers for the E-brake would always get sticky here in New England and the E-brakes would drag. SAAB had a seal kit for the levers. The shafts would get rusty. Eventually the secondary piston for the E-brake would get sticky. The caliper slides would wear and you'd get a shudder from the front brakes when you stopped after backing up. It was difficult to get the Gleitmo lube in those channels. 88-93 and 94 convertible 900 had the 9000 style brakes with the rear E-brake system. I hated the damn wheel bolts. I miss my 900s.
@@mlieser1230 heck I'm talking the late 2-stroke era🤣 Late 60s I guess. The good old days. The only advantage of the rear ebrakes was when ice racing the Saabs could lock up the rear tires in tight turns. Unless there was water on the ice and it was below freezing because then the cable would lock up permanently and that was not good. End of race for them. I finally put a high pressure valve on the rear Citroën brakes that would tap into the rear suspension pressure at the tap of a button on my dash. Wow was that a game changer because now I could lock them up in a tight turn water or not. Never lost a race again. Fun times.
@@fiskfarm I used to autocross a SAAB 99. The 2-stroke era was before my time. I read where the 93s that Erik Carlsson rallied had the e-brake handle modified to pivot left or right. He could lock up one or the other and/or both rear wheels for tight maneuvers. The free wheel on the transmission allowed for clutch less shifting. The Citroens were something. A SAAB friend who was into the 2-strokes and later 96s and Sonnetts had a Citroen DM.
Talk to Eric O before you offer any invitations to call you. It will surprise you how much of your day will be taken up offering free advice to people who don't have the skill set to accomplish a task safely. Not good for you, or them! They'll call back after your advice leads them into another complication they aren't able to cope with. The people you might like to help would never be asinine enough to call.
For sure, you're not scared to potentially cross thread the spark plug putting them in that way! Personally I would take an additional 0.03 second to start them by hand before diving in with a ratchet.
What I was taught by my father and still do today is simply use a piece of rubber tubing that fits onto the terminal (porcelain portion) well and use that to lower the plug into the hole. Another thing I have learned throughout the years with all fasteners and especially do with Spark Plugs, I turn them in reverse until I feel the threads "click" and index properly and then gently thread it in. The rubber tubing gives plenty of grip to hold the plug and if the threads are binding for some reason it'll allow the plug to stop turning before a 15minute job turns into an all day, or multiple day project.
Use about a 9-in piece of rubber hose it slides down over the spark plug porcelain and put it in start the treads and then run it down with the ratchet this way you guaranteed not to cross thread especially in aluminum heads you don't want the treads get messed up then you've got a problem have a good day
Hey Ray, don't forget to replace that relay for the horn. Great seeing you starting doing work in the new shop. I would bring my vehicle to you but Australia is a wee bit far. Keep up the great work & best wishes, prayers, thoughts for outstanding success as your new employee to the wife unit.
When I'm bored, I don't leave the videos, I come to relieve my boredom. Your videos are not boring at all, even if they are long. they are very informative. I have learned so much from the videos you make. I've had some of the same issues you have fixed, and I've gone through my car using your diagnostics and diagnosis steps, and 99.9% of the time your fix worked on my issue. even though I have a '00 Ford Explorer, and you work on different cars every day, it still helps and works a lot of the time. Thanks for all the hard work you do for the customers every day Ray, keep up the good work. and Be Blessed.
The more links you put in your chain the bigger the possibility of something going wrong he's eliminated at least one link but on the other end if there's a link somewhere providing the parts maybe they might have looked at the computer wrong have a good day
Here's what an impact your videos make. I was watching this video this morning and although I have worked on cars since I was a teenager, I don't do it for a career and I don't know everything. So after I started restoring a 77 corvette for my wife (was her dad's car), my son took to wanting to be a mechanic. He's 18. Thinks he knows everything but he's got a ways to go. Of course he has never helped me with the corvette in almost 2 years, but he wants to work on his car himself. 2011 Mazdaspeed 3. Today he was replacing his rear brake pads and rotors. As well as other stuff. I'm looking the calipers and recognize them as actuated calipers. Now I've never worked on these before and he tries to spread the piston with a spreader until I said he probably needed a windback tool for those because of the two holes in the piston that line up with the dimples on the back of the inside brake pad. Low and behold I learned something today and he learned something today after I just happened to watch your video this morning. Thank you Ray for everything you do. My Channel is starting soon too. Stay tuned.
another great job ray you deserve your own shop its about time i know its a huge financial headache but your work will fly through the door with your skill and thoroughness well done on your success
Mmm, maintenance! Sparkle plugs, stoppy-puffs, air consniffling, and a spinny-glide for next time! Been using that particular blue-goo brake lube on personal and customer vehicles for 15+ years now, never had an issue with it eating the rubber. I HAVE had NGLI #2 wheel bearing grease eat brake rubber, though! Good job on the order of operations on the brakes! It's super-important in bilateral service procedures to always work on the passenger side first, just in case you need to experience on-the-job learning, the apprentice evidence is further from the driver. :D "Where's the hole" and "inverted rawr." Yup, it's a Saturday! Or at least it was when I started writing this... Onward to the sleeping pod!
I like your longer videos. I get to learn better and easier ways to do mechanic work on my vehicles when watching you, since i have 11 vehicles already. Lots of maintenance.
Hey, Ray, good to have you back on RU-vid... in your auto shop. You have a unique ability to inform, instruct & entertain the viewer! May your business continue to prosper far into the future!
I never used one but they have kits to change the service valves without discharging the A/C systems. Also if there is any 134 residue in the valve port it can set off your detector after you tried tightening it.
Ray how come not torquing the carrier?? I guess torque specs not needed on cars 😞 it'snot for mechanics,it's for other people working on cars . 😞 Safety,🍺
Hi Ray, us European folks back in the day had to contend with some Citroen cars with actuated front Calipers and SAAB cars. Living in the UK the added challenge of winter Salt and massive corrosion issues made for some wonderfully challenging jobs. Never a dull moment in this industry. Wishing you a long and prosperous new venture in your shop. Loving all your videos watch you everyday and it’s nice to see how the US does things.Keep strong dude.
Ray i used to rebuild calipers and i have also never seen that slide grease deteriorate the rubber bushings :) i was actually thinking he seems to be doing this very fast LOL
SIL-GLYDE doesn't make them swell. Petro based grease will. Never used the Permatex stuff. The grease included in some brake kits will definitely make them swell.
@@raymondrobbins9495 My "education" in caliper brake greases involved at least 5 teardown. Even after using the SIL-GLYDE, the offending, bushes pin, was still dragging. Ordering new rubber bushings solved.
There are like 5 or 6 chain repair places in the city and this one lone guy who's PACKED at all times. He uses really good parts, never screws you, and the word of mouth for him had him grow during lock down instead of close shop. This is your future. He's living the life and you will be too.
Hello Ray. On some systems with handbrake in brake caliper like on this accord you need to make handbrake calibration procedure after compressing caliper piston to be sure that right and left handbrake are equal on nm braking force when car is mot tested. So press the foot brake ah hard(after initial pumping) as you can and pull the handbrake lever few times at max. You can check this thing at parking brake equalizer and check if equalizer is lined. Sure you know about that but just a little thing that can fail on mot.
I think brakes are the most important part of a car, especially if u drive it hard like I drive mine. Every time I watch u do brakes it makes me happy on the inside that you did mine so I can have 100% confidence in them. (And also cuz I saw it get done on video so I can have 110% confidence in them lol 😉). I really look forward to the next time I need something done on my car to have u do it and see ur new place!!! Congrats again!
Always a challenge to get setup when starting a new business. I did on site repairs for trash compactors and rolloff boxes. Took months to get accounts for parts and supplies. Working 80 plus hours a week, building a costumer base. And alot of tools from pawn shops. When I retired I had 3 people working for me, 4 service trucks all bought new. Oldest one was a 2016 F550 witch I still have.
Two things, first of all there is not an accumulator on that Honda second of all rotors do not work do your research please other than that you’re doing fine
As usual there's no substitute for good training and experience which you make quite obvious in your well executed content. That was a mouthful wasn't it! Great video as usual. PS in reference to your ratchet going the wrong way on the last break reminds me of the tape going the wrong way on your threads, can you say wrong way Ray three times real fast, LOL. Just having fun keep up the great videos. Mile marker Mikey Trenton Michigan. 🇺🇸👍❤️
What is the brand of your small torque wrench? I got a small one from Harbor Freight...and it doesn't "click" until twice the torque set. I already snapped a bolt because of the POS.
I had a complete set from Harbor freight and from 1/4" to 1/2" they all were suspect. I ordered another whole set from Amazon, different brand and don't believe their torque settings either. I needed only 20lbs for a spark plug and I stopped using it because it wouldn't click. I even tightened it down in a vise and couldn't get a click at 20lbs. I never used them before, but have many times since I got them for brakes, tire lugs and steering components. I am not positive any of the low range are accurate.
Ray, glad to see you being your own boss! Hope it works out for you. I should have left the dealers 30 yrs ago, too late for me now at my age. Hey, one suggestion for your new oil drain is an anti-splash pad. These work great, we have them in all the drains here. Lisle 38750 15" Round No-Splatter Pad at Amazon.
Funny thing is right as he said he didn't see any bubbles you could see a tiny little bubble rise up, to the human eye you might not be able to see it but with the camera zoomed in so much it was there.
I've never seen brake pads come in such fancy packing. Here in UK there just shoved into the smallest box possible and sometimes shrink-wrapped in plastic.
Great advice for just about anywhere. No cars will last forever and the longer any fastener sits, the more married it'll become with the component it's threaded into.
i noticed you left off the metal shims on the brake pads which is also a noise reducer and still used ontop of new pads so will always be there in the next pad change. Ray you need a rubber plug inserter to lower down and screw in by hand and can also remove plugs if magnet is of no use or rubber in socket is worn. The orange colour on the pads is usually an abrasive to clean surface of discs and no heavy braking for so many miles as they are cleaning the disc.
Thank You Ray! Your videos are never boring, and I always learn something I didn’t know. Your Videos make my day!!!! You’re Awesome! Take care and May God Continue to Bless You and Your Family.
Great video Ray, Just watched Ford Boss Me video on your history. Oldie but a goodie. Side note: I hear some of the best music in the background of your video's. Hoobastank the reason while working on your breaks. You stay safe out there young man ;-)
if the evaporator is leaking, you can take a UV light to the water that drains out of the evaporator drain tube and if the water turns green you'll know for sure its the evaporator.
16:30 I don't know about the purple stuff "Breaking down" rubber, but it does cause the rubber anti-rattle bushing to swell up and seize, freezing up the caliper. Permatex silicone ceramic extreme (red/orange bottle), crc silaramic, or sil-glyde only for me on guide pins
I glad you got your shop up and running Ray. I’m celebrating my 24th year in January. 47 years of being a Tech. I’m on the SE Texas gulf coast and good thing we don’t have to deal with is the rusted out autos. Most techs up north don’t get the luxury of working on clean autos. I specialize in Ford power stroke trucks. I just have to deal with mud and red sand. You are a good tech and yes always use top quality parts. Or factory OEM. Less problems, happier customers. Good luck to you.
Canadian here, my brother lives in Corpus Christi and get jealous of you guys every time I see your 10-15 year old cars looking like 2-3 year old Canadian cars
The only time I encountered road salt with my car was in Texas lol, it was during Feb 2022 when you guys had that damn freak snow storm, I got caught up in the middle of it on Interstate 10 and was in Kerrville and bailed off the road just before it jammed up overnight and missed it by just minutes it was nasty cold, nasty icy and a truck jacknifed and blocked half the road and i was sliding around on the ice with all season tires and noped off that highway lol.
@@pilsplease7561 Well welcome to the Big state of Texas. So much highway to cover. And the wide open spaces of I10. Storms happen like this every 10 years or so. The people that experienced the old storms retired and the new ones that replaced them don’t have a clue. It is not an every year occurrence. So many forget average annual temp in Texas is 69°. So when we have flooding nobody makes a big deal except the ones that get their cars flooded. Best remedy for that is sit your but down and wait a hour after it stops raining to drive.
@@edwardkveton3410 Yeah, I was staying with my parents in the houston area and it was averaging in the 40's or 50's during the day when I was visiting had one day spike into like 71 but was mostly cold with a lot of moisture in the air. It also rained a ton while I was staying with my parents.
I recently did a full brake job on my 07 Fusion, and I did not have a press for the rear calipers. I DID have a cheap "works with all models" set of index tools that just went on a 3/8" drive, my body weight, and got er done. I like your way much better though!
Miss the doodly-do, though in retrospect, it was a distraction. A great instruction on the maladies of a 2010 Honda given by a man who really enjoys what he does. You’re a good instructor, an inspiration and you encourage the necessity to explore and to strive for excellence. I hope younger people, who are considering an automotive career, are watching and are inspired by what you do. 👍🏻
One of the good things about you working for yourself now, is that you seem to have a lot more sensible music in the background, unaffected by whatever other mechanics think is good music. Thank you for this video, it feels almost like you are back to normal working schedule. Nice going. Thanks again for all the good effort.
I've not opened the bleeders for compressing the caliper pistons, but I do loosen or remove the master cylinder cap so as to eliminate back pressure during the piston being compressed. I haven't seen you do that so it must not be necessary, but I've done it since forever.
I found some fluid leaked from the master when I left the lid on. I realized what it was, but later a puddle had found its way to the cement under the card and had me worried there was some sort of leak. After a good wipe down and moving it from that spot, I am glad to say it was just the spillage.
So true ! It’s called,,,, deglazing. When you remove older pads to replace a bearing,,, it removes the,,,never had a squeal before you replaced the bearing ! You would “ disturb” it’s position when removed to replace the bearing,,,, removes the “ comeback” theory ! Good point ! I still do it today !
