check the drip rails and holes in the roof. The cab leaks are most likely coming from the drip rails, or a crack on the cab thats under the cowl. Charging issues with the 91.5-93 can be a bad crank positions sensor blown fusible link or its in the ECM. Cracked frames behind the steering gear is another thing to look for.
I love my 1989 1st gen, granted I restored it and swapped from a 3 speed auto to a nv4500 with the 3:07 gearing still and that truck gets ridiculously awesome fuel mileage. Drove 9 hours picking up a car and I was averaging around 23-25mpg. A positive about the non intercooled is the injection pump can be turn up much higher before it runs away, something with the casting in the intercooled pump heads catching the fulcrum lever causing it to stick. My only real gripe about the 89 w250 is how rough the ride is and I kinda want to see if I have stronger softer leaf springs with air over ride so get it to ride smooth when it's empty but still be able to hull my car trailer and my formula boat.
Throttle postion sensor can be an issue with automatic trans models. I suggest a delete kit. Cab roof rot is very very common especially on marker light cabs. Frame cracks around steer gear or steer gear mount plate cracks ( 4x4) can happen. They make a reinforcement bracket i suggest and also try to not turn the wheels to lock position sitting still which puts pressure on the steer gear mounting area. Steering shafts suck! Aftermarket steering shaft is a must. I also suggest after going through countless steering gears to upgrade to a Red Top steer gear. Best thing i ever did. Upgrade rear drums to 1 ton version ( 250 models) or go to disk brake conversion. Plus eliminate the RWAL valve to rear brakes.. I could go on but even with all the issues these trucks are awesome!!
I’m 17 and have had my first gen with the 360 for maybe 4 months now and I can’t even count on my fingers how many times an old guy has came up to me and said “yea my dad used to have one of them old dodges” or something along those lines. Sometimes it’s nice to here a story but damn do I get tired of the hour long monologue of people grandpas and dads old trucks
This happened to me a couple weeks ago. AutoZone has the bushings but you should remove the windshield wiper transmissions (yes that is what they are called) and grease them. They should move with zero resistance.
1 check the frame around the steering gear box for the frame being cracked . 2. check the rubber line's not all rubber line rated for tran's oil or engine oil . cause them to crack an dry rot alot faster also trans cooler line for the auto make sure there no using reg fuel line for cooler line's cause the fuel line will swell an close off a goo way to burn a auto trans . buy the lines there cheap . 3. 1 gen check front a rear brake calbers for leaks 4. master cylinder love to blow out the back seals alot of the time . if it rusty mean it has a leak some where an not sealing right . 5. if yours have the tear drop cabin lights replace the gasket around the lights or just by new one's 6. when buying a 1 gen the first thing i would do check an replace wheel bearing's front an rear hub bearing . an do a fluid change . 100% it never been changed . 7. if you get a crusty 12 valve . do a full on engine clean . an find out where the oil leaks coming from . make sure it not a main leaking oil ole saying if there no oil under them no oil in them . 8. the 2 valve's a shut diesel off . go out an starve your truck for fuel . they also leak diesel replace them. or just pull the valve out an put a pull cord shut off line on it so you can shut the engine off manual 9. 250 an 350 have a abs system the ground wire like to rust off is the reason why you might have a brake light an abs light on
My truck pulled the front steering gear bolts right thru the frame. 1 " holes! . Shitty feeling when you r going into a corner and the truck wants to keep going straight when u turn the wheel. I have a 5/16 steel plate on the inside of the frame there now but it was a fabricators nightmare to size it and make the bolt holes line up.
Leaking Bosch VE injector pump… Preparing to remove & attempt to rebuild it myself. $45 for the gasket and o-rings. And maybe about $350-$400 in timing upgrade plate, fuel pin, governor spring and a few other upgrades. Will be cheaper still then having someone else rebuild for $900+ or a new one @$1100-1500 😂
So I have a 1990 dodge ram d150 and it’s a 5.2L and I found out it has 3.9L throttle body and injectors in it if I just change the fuel injectors should that fix the issues or would I have to change whole throttle body. Because it will struggle to stay on and acts like it’s not getting enough gas and I’ve replaced just about everything.
We also happen to have a video on the 7.3 IDI I will admit it seems to have less problems. besides the air intrusion issues. but our trucks have had very different lifes so its tough to make a direct comparison.
My 92 has a factory tack on the dash left side. I've owned it 20 years and haven't had one fusible link go out. Initially it are up u joints like 3 a year until I put in Spicer brand. Rear main bearings go out on these things so check the back of the engine for signs of leakage. Last but not least is the way they join the steering column to the steering box. Absolutely crappy design. If you have a sheet of 3/8 steel put it in the box . It will improve the ride. Put liquid beeline on it or everything will slide.
Don't forget persistent OD issues and delayed shifts with the autos and PCM failures... Buy manual and hardwire everything. Also aix super cooler seems worthless unless hardwired too since it doesn't come on until trans temp is 270
@@andrewbrown2956 yeah I personally think it’s the best looking of all the Dodge grills. I did have to slightly modify the headlight area for it to fit.
