I add a few things to 95 as I have one a very clean truck that has no rust at all and it has 210 k miles on it The automatic is pretty weak but can be up graded . 4 pinion planets and a aluminum carrier ect ect . if its stock automatic I recommend not idling very long in park and go to neutral after staring to charge the convertor , Check the cooling lines as at one point they can rub together and cause leaks and the connection on the lines can come apart and loose the fluid . I appreciate your videos . I rather have a second gen for my use as I can work on it . Now my truck has a g56 rebuilt. A Val Air twin disc with the bm shifter . Rebuilt TC . One piece aluminum drive shaft. I got the hydrobooster setting on the work table ready to install . I like the second gen because it's been a dependable truck and gets decent mileage ..the steering is also being upgraded as soon a I get some direction lol . New dash also on the work bench lol.. look forward to more videos
The same here goes for a 1st gen. I have a 91 Non/IC 2wd 3speed. It was a local truck from the state and was a single owner. The bones and engine/ tranny were un touched and in good shape which is what matters the most when putting on upgraded parts and going through components/ electrical. 5000-10000 is a good general baseline for a 1st gen. If your mechanically inclined you'll save a load of cash, and if you understand electronics a bit you'll save more there too. Just don't be afraid to phone a friend, use an online resource and do lots of research.
And in snow/salt country, rocker panels, cab corners, cab mounts and wheel wells. You could spend a ton of money on replacement body parts, unless you're doing the cutting welding and blend work. But if you do buy a truck which needs that work, as soon as it's done paint, undercoat, bed liner, whatever cover it up to make it last...like Rob did.
Hey brother I’m getting a deal on a 97 cummins regular cab with a manual transmission, it was used for work but the clutch was changed it has about 230k miles for 6000$ what do you think
I would LOVE to find a decent/clean 98.5 12v quad cab long bed 2G. I would even consider trading my ccsb 4x4 rust free Florida GMC Sierra SLT3 LLY sunroof truck for it.
You didn't go over the interior enough.. The upper dash when broken costs a few hundred dollars for a replacement, but that's the easy part. To replace that upper dash is a royal pain in the ass & on top of that you'll probably need a new bezel. But, wait.. THERE IS MORE!! The connection points along the lower dash will probably fragment and crack when you uninstall the upper if they haven't already.. & best part, nobody makes a replacement oem lower dash. Nothing like pop sickle sticks and glue holding 25+ yr old failed plastic in place, I'm sure it will hold up typical road driving and the vibration a 12valve cummins produces, the dash is a ticking time bomb..
Hey Dude! Nice truck I recently brought a 2000 Dodge Ram cummins cash only with 68k miles now at 71k Brought before inflation happened. It’s been a good truck to me I have a couple questions. I have a 24v vp44 I know I need to get a lift pump but I have a automatic transmission what things can I do to make it reliable so I can hold some power like 300-400 nothing crazy. And I have this little problem that plagues these autos is sometimes it gets stuck in first and was told it was that wire that goes thru the alternator I rewire that so it isn’t near it. Kinda fixed it a bit but was still doing Then I brought the db apps noise isolater and doesn’t do it all the time anymore but here and there. It’s kinda annoying do you know how to fix it completely?
Had my 95 2WD sense 2001 and I wouldn’t trade it for a new one and got 306,000 reliable miles on it but had 130,000 when I bought it and think I gave like 8,000 for it then I do believe I got my money’s worth out of it. Rebuilt the trans oh 10 years ago but the right way and a DPC converter triple disc. Them trucks are great trucks like you said. It just maintaining them is key and that my friend isn’t rocket science. Lol
I have 4 2nd gens right now 01, 98, 97, 96 all are good shape, I'm in Arizona so no rust here. Spent a lot of money rebuilding all the front ends tho lol
@@acescape88 Depends on what u want to spend lol I went with cpp 3rd gen track bar and the conversion bracket, synergy steering upgrade, thuren shocks and soft ride springs. Do that and it will feel like a new truck. Could try a redhead steering box, in my experience I'm not sure they are worth the money. That's how my 97 is setup
I dont care about how much it costs. Just want the best option for a reliable truck. Can u give a link to the track bar and conversion bracket? Thanks man
In the dry climate areas, look for cracks in the body. Look under the cab where the seats are bolted, Look around the hood hinges. Also look at the rear of the cab right above the rockers, These cabs have a tendencies to crack with miles.
I’d also add if you’re buying a truck that’s not from an area that doesn’t snow inspect the very front of the frame where they dip down In the front. In my experience 2nd gens have been pretty notorious for rotting right there. Might not be a problem if the truck is a good deal or you’re handy with a welder.
@@chrisnielsen3562 yes if it’s a 02 2500 and up. If it’s half ton then well that’s the new generation. Which third gen’s I’d say if the truck is a rust belt truck there’s a lot more to Look for since the frame is completely boxed. I’ve seen them rot from the Inside out everywhere but most commonly by the front shackles on the leaf springs. But yea overall 2nd gen’s are great trucks. I myself prefer 12valves but when it comes to the trucks themselves I’d say 00-02 being my favorite with the brake and axle updates. With 01.5-02 being maybe the best from 00-02 as they have rear disc brakes. Late 02 also had no front axle vacuum actuator.
My young cousin bought a clean 95 .... he's in the process of building the engine with " higher hp" in mind... Have recommended and shared your your channel more than once...hope hes been checking your channel out...but anyway, good stuff man as always 👍👍
Hey Rob, thanks for the detailed video. Can you recommend a shop in Calgary that specializes in the second gen platform? I know you are the man with cummins. Im meaning more about the entire truck. Replacing front end etc, doors, alighnment etc. I am looking for a shop, or, a person, who will work on these trucks (entire truck not only the engine). Cheers.
It will take a year of truck ownership before your words stop bouncing off deaf ears and ring true. Then you will forever be known as “ Mr.Rob Nostrodomis”
Water pump, power steering pump, front rotors and calipers, differential, all front end steering linking, catalytic converter, but so far not the starter.
Hey idk if you seen my comment on your rod video but I have this engine that has Been rebuild a few Times and was wondering what the right rod organization is 2005 cummins 5.9 4943977. Sorry and thanks in advance
Replace everything, you can get all 2016 Moog stuff but the adjusters, cheap from Walmart online! All the gens fit each other, and each gen the stuff gets thicker!
Great Video Rob!! I have a question for, that would be of a great help to me to say the least, I have a First Gen Cummins that has 2 bolts missing from my Intake Manifold, that hold down the Injector Bracket's, do you know the size of those bolts and what would you use to replace them? Thank You Very Much!!