WATCH THIS BEFORE INSTALLING OPG's IN A COYOTE... COULD SAVE YOUR ENGINE!!! 

Thank you!!

Yes I would definitely install new housing if you are installing opg

It’s very good information to have. If I would have known this previously I would have been using new pumps all along. Always learning when it comes to stuff like this.

@@SpeedAddict731 yes learning is a constant battle this is the good side of the internet.funny how things play out but when I was doing my analysis the old pump had that play and I just got a new pump and put it out of my mind not sure why I didn't finish the thought. Those gears run a close tolerance I did sort of nose about why their were no alignment dowels or shouldered bolts which is when I realized the housing centered it the crank must flex a bit and wear those tabs over time I only had 20k miles on mine

Thank you!!

Thanks!! I wouldn’t mind doing that in the future to be honest.

You’re welcome. Make sure you use new housing with new opg.

Thank you and welcome to the channel!!

Thank you.

Yes sir!

Ya rather than them saying, you’re the first person that’s had this problem and sorry bout your luck. Thanks for the heads up

Thank you!! Just trying to share any info I get with you guys.

@@SpeedAddict731Thank you so much. Subscribed.👍🏽👍🏽

This is very true! I will only use new housings for now on.

Thank you!! I’ll share their video as soon as they get it out. I’m sure it will have a lot of good info in it.

You could measure the crank and the pads on the housing and use shims to center the old housing.

This is a learning experience for sure. Only new housings for now on.

@@SpeedAddict731 What if the car only has 7,000 miles? Would you still replace the housing? I'm getting ready to do this on my 22 GT

You have to keep an open mind and be willing to learn new stuff.

Were you able to reuse the oem housing?

@KeltonScott well I DID reuse the housing, but I wish I didn't! Honestly in hindsight I wish I would've just bought the boundary complete OPG housing and gotten the billet back plate as well. My stock gears had some wear in them that I could catch my finger nails on while dragging across. That 'normal' wear was also in my housing, but engine builders and parts guys I talked to all told me I was over thinking it. I knew better so it's no one's fault but mine if I have to take it apart again, but still.... I'll have videos of every single step for OPG/CS and a Roush 2.3 kit install on my car coming soon. Anyone reading this interested can give my channel a sub. I'll have an update video really soon when the motor is sealed up. Otherwise I'm sure the algorithm will bring you there when you search. Doesn't really matter to me, I'm not in the youtube for money. If I can get to a point I can make a little bit, enough to have parts as business expense then it's worth it for me 🤣

I reused housing a ton before this happened. I was just sharing what I found so it may help someone catch it if they reuse their housing and have this noise. I do install new housings now in all my customers cars to avoid this. There is a way to do it as well with the old housing by measuring and using shims to center the pump on the crank. How is the car doing?

@SpeedAddict731 it came out just fine and I think I definitely over thought it 😅 it's making FANTASTIC oil pressure, I just stated it up for the first time the other day. I've got that video/short up on my channel, check it out! I did alot of custom blue/black PET insulation everywhere and redid the wiring harness with new split tubing, harness tape, and heat shielding everywhere. Finishing up the remote tuning this weekend and she should be ready to roll out

@@SpeedAddict731do you think the supercharger caused crank distortion and wore the tabs down on the oil pump housing ? Have you seen the tabs worn with a n/a build? Good video a lot to think about thanks.

Yea I’ve gotten lucky many many times. Their video will be more in depth with all the testing they have done!

Yes sir!!!

Yes sir!!

Whipple FTW. Yes I’ve installed a lot of gears with no issues. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you sir!!

Thanks!!

Thank you !!

Thank you!!

You’re welcome

You’re welcome. A sleeve couldn’t be used as there is not enough room to fit one in between the oil pump and crank on a new oil pump and clearances may be different from one used pump to another.

@@SpeedAddict731 I wonder if you tightened the housing bolts finger tight, reassemble all the timing gear then turn the crank two or three times before tightening the housing down if it would self centre??

Yes sir

You’re welcome

You’re welcome and Yes I can get you one. I know boundary sells an assembly with new housing and their gears! www.boundarypumps.com/ford-v8-cayote-1/stage-1-coyote-pump

Yes it is aluminum.

Yes install new housing if installing opg. Little bit of insurance that is not expensive at all.

@@SpeedAddict731 Ken you and Zander are 2 Very Cool 😎 Fellows . Thanks for yet another reply . I did watch your live cast last night , I was the first to hit the like button too. Looking forward to seeing you at Beech Bend this year . Ex BULLITT 40 . New car , Rapid Red 21

Ken I’m assuming the supercharged Coyote engines might wear out the oil pump and oil pump housing a little quicker than a natural aspirated engine ? I’m wondering cause I recently bought a Roush stage 3 and I’m wondering about how long or about how many miles till I’ll be having to plan on replacing the oil pump and housing. I think it’s a good question. Thanks J

Yes sir!!

Yes sir!!

@@SpeedAddict731 got free time this weekend?

Thank you and not sure. Mine didn’t sound like a bbq tick like I hear from coyotes.

Thank you. Just trying to help someone not Have my issue!

Yes sir!!

What noise?

You’re welcome!

Yes sir!

I changed boost directions. My kit did great on my car.

You’re welcome

Fill the oil filter and then turn the engine over with pedal on the floor so the engine won’t start for 10 seconds 4 times with around 45 seconds between. It will build oil pressure. Then we start it. This is how rpg and other engine builders tell you to do it as well when they send out an engine.

If you are going to be using a two step, hitting the rev limiter a lot or running high hp and spinning the engine up. For a manual boosted car it is good insurance because if you miss a shift and hit that rev limiter, sometimes that is all it takes.

@@SpeedAddict731 👍Good info thanks.. so if I run an auto and don't race at the strip or have my rpm turned up above 6500 No need to run them? Hey got to ask..

To answer your question and I have had this conversation with boundary and others. You could measure the outside of the crank shaft and measure between the pads on the pump. Subtract the difference and divide by 2 and use the correct size feeler gauges on the sides and same for top and bottom and you would be able to center the pump. But the Pump housings don’t cost a lot and it’s peace of mind. Not only for the centering of the pump but also all pumps have slight wear in them if you look closely now I’ve installed several gears into pumps before this as long as I didn’t see any wear that concerned me and as long as all the measurements between the housing and the gears were in spec. But you are talking about an extra $80-$120 for a new pump housing that has no wear on the inside and will center correctly. For most doing this job at home it’s better for this rather than the other method that they could still get wrong if all their measurements were off a tad. With Boundary’s test on their setup if it is off by .003 it can cause this to happen. So for most installing a new pump that will center itself is the best route to take.

@@SpeedAddict731 I had apart a stock oil pump with 275k miles on it and no noticeable wear on the housing what soever. it seems buying a new ford oil pump to get a new housing is simply a simple method for someone not bright enough to use a feeler gauge to center the housing after gears are installed. it would take an extra 300 seconds to do this but alas a lot of non mechanics might take 5 hours to locate their feeler gauge where a mechanic knowes where all his tools are and where in the tool box to find them without even looking. Still seems like horseshit that boundary did not add in the directions to check these things and should warranty the items because of neglect of R&D on their part.

@@mathewhoffer4541 I agree that most good techs can do this. But most that do this in their garage can easily get it wrong and still have issues. This is why I put the info out there. For all of those guys. Plus if you use a new oil pump then no one can come back and use this as a reason for the issue.

Haha!

It no noise or issues it will be ok. I replaced several opg’s before this with no issues.

You can buy a Boundary or Ford performance oil pump that come with upgraded gears already in a new housing.

@@SpeedAddict731 is it cheaper or worth less hassle? Or once you have it off is it not much more work

I questioned this also. I was told that the crank will ever so slightly machine the housing when running because it fits tight on the crank with the new housing. That’s the reason you seen me measuring the old housing vs the new housing. I was able to verify the difference in size, confirming what I was told. The housing was new when it was installed with the stock gears. Once bolted down the housing can’t move but once you unbolt the housing and reinstall it, there is a chance you can have it off just a little.

@@SpeedAddict731 I'm still processing the specifics of that but basically are you saying that the OPG's and oil pump housing "wear" in together in relation to the crankshaft position and if you dont align the original oil pump housing back in the exact location it was in, it "offsets" the OPG...?? If I understand that correctly, I dont understand why we dont see this problem more often.

@@jpalmer3089 the housing themselves appears to be the issue here. To be honest I’m not sure this isn’t happening more often. In my case it was enough to make a noise that wasn’t horribly loud but caught my attention enough to to go in and inspect. I still had oil pressure so some people would probably overlook the noise and keep driving. But I have seen online where people have taken gears out and had that wear on them also. When I was told they had duplicated my noise and wear due to this. I had to go and check a used housing and a new housing to see for myself. When I measured and it was off, then I test fit an old housing and a brand new one I could see how you can get it off centered due to this. I couldn’t move the new housing side to side at all but could the old housing. Once I seen this I decided to put the info out there. It’s too easy to install a new housing with new gears. Not very expensive at all and if it could keep someone from having this issue, then it’s worth it. Trust me when I was told this I had the same skepticism, that’s the reason I had to go and check for myself and this is what I found. I do know you can’t be off centered when it comes to gerotor pumps.

@@SpeedAddict731 Thank you for taking the time to explain that. And thank you for sharing this. Your exactly right, it only makes sense then to just purchase a new oil pump when installing the gears. I come from the LS3/LT1 side and there is a tool from GM that is supposed to be used to align the oil pump to the crankshaft. Admittedly, I haven't gotten as far into the weeds on this as I should have. The interesting part is the "crankshaft will ever so slightly machine the housing".

@@jpalmer3089 you’re welcome, I just try to share any info I can that may help someone. Yes there is a tool that is used in the LS world to center the oil pump on the crank shaft. I’m looking forward to the boundary video showing everything in detail.

From what I have seen myself and boundary has told me. Looks like it.

Wouldn’t be the bbq tick.

I agree completely!!

Why would Ford upgrade? I've never heard of an OPG breaking on a factory engine.

No

No because the bolt holes in the housing are loose on the bolts. I had the bolts almost down all the way and was able to move the pump still.

No I have not.

@HPR now I'm hearing what I would say is piston slap between 2000-2500rpm . I now have 600 miles on the car and I have never reved above 5500rpm yet. As a mechanic myself and having 2 new 2 coyotes and 1 new gen 3 , I have never heard this in my gen 2 motors. I've been doing some research and it doesn't sound good. Should I be concerned ?