I've been watching your videos for some time now but coming back to this one, I realized I have not yet subscribed to this highly underrated, awesomely helpful channel. My apologies! I will rectify this problem pronto...and subscribed. Thanks for helping us smaller, low budget folk.
I feel kinda smart now, I came up with that idea of the board with two dowels to span across two dogholes independently from this. Obviously not saying I know as much as you, but it's good to know my brain is kind of in the right place.
I made my own bench dogs from 3/4" dowels. Instead of using a spring or other mechanism to keep them from falling through the holes I drilled in my bench, I cut squares of wood of various thicknesses, bored a 3/4" hole in the center of each one, and glued the dowels into the holes. I would echo your comments about the cast iron hold fasts. I bought two that came in a set of other stuff from a well-known woodworking store. I was ready to throw them out until I read a suggestion that they hold much better if you sanded the shaft to rough it up a bit. The paint made it too slick to hold in the dog holes. I did that and it improved their performance to the point that they are functional now.
If you are going to make your own bench dogs from wood I recommend making one for every hole in your bench. That way you don't have to move them from hole to hole. It's a luxury but dowels for round dogs or scraps of wood for rectangular dogs are cheap. Thanks for your video.
I think I would just prefer to have a few dogs rather than dozens of them built in. That might be an interesting add on portable bench top style to make with a series of built in dogs that are spring loaded.
Joshua, a really nifty bench hook system approach, thanks for sharing it. No cross grain binding, and the slice off the edge is elegant. Kinda like what sliding saw table manufacturers do for their crosscut fence extensions. ‘Bout the bench dogs, agreed the bullet catches are a top notch solution. If you’re of a mind for square dog holes, and happen to be cutting those mortises before the last timber is glued up to the top front edge, then that is the ideal time to pop a catch into every dog hole. This allows the dogs to be replaced without fuss, restricts the bunging inflicted at the strike area to the buried part of the dog and not the highly visible dog holes, and weakens the dog itself not a jot. Well OK, that last is hardly a real consideration.
Unfortunately 2023 wood is still super expensive so i have become a bit of an expert using mdf and particle board from IKEA furniture. Get this its also only with joinery to toughen joint areas use CA glue as it soaks in and becomes strong as nails.
That's another great Video You're experience and confidence are impressive Here's a tip for the benchdogs: its cheaper and easyer to cut half way diagonally into the dowel and stick in a popsicle stick, instead of using this brass springs
I might refer you to the very excellent serious of Fine Woodworking magazine. The original 1st ten years was available as a hardbound edition minus some of the advertising. It covered a virtual plethora of things from the Tage Frid workbench plans and also making wooden taps and dies very simplistically for making virtually anything requiring large screws including bench vise screws mad from wood and wooden clamps made with wooden screws. Absolutely the very best reference material that I have ever seen. Bar none.
Joshua I’m worried about the window sash seen at 0:42. The right hand corner shows signs of water damage (the gray wood on the bottom few inches of the sash stile). This is usually indicative of moisture wicking up into inadequately sealed end grain (in this case it appears to be migrating into the end grain of the rail as well). I just retired from 17 years as a service tech for Marvin windows and saw a lot of this issue. The moisture more often than not comes from excessive indoor relative humidity condensing on the glass, running down and collecting on the sill. If a room is unheated in the winter that condensation often freezes into an actual ice dam. Mold, mildew and finish degradation can result and I’ve seen many a sash left long enough that was destroyed by rot in this manner.
Joshua, I throughly enjoyed your video! I am a lover of woodworking and clearly so are you! Your tutorial style of delivery on your video is awesome! I am a fan! I shared your channel with a few Woodmeisters!
Here's a couple of quick comments on shooting boards. Since the plane rides along its side, make that part of the board with a low-friction surface such as polyethylene or hardwood finished with beeswax. Also give some thought to your assortment of planes and how much of a shoulder there is between the edge of the blade and the edge of the plane. The narrowest of these shoulders is all that will be riding along the reference edge of the shooting board. The rest will either be removed by the blade, or can be cut back on the table saw before the board is assembled. What remains will be pretty thin, and consequently subject to increased wear, so some thought for the material will be repaid in a longer and more accurate life for the board.
I prefer the older, more traditional bench hooks to the ones you showed. These are shorter and much smaller, and always used in pairs. They keep the work much closer to the edge of the bench, allowing the heel of the saw to be dropped to follow the front line down. This is better sawing technique than trying to keep the saw level, and isn't possible with the bench hooks you showed.
Thanks a lot for all the tips, Joshua! I'm making notes here! 😃 My only issue here is to find dowels made of good wood, hardwood. But... Well, maybe it's not that difficult, the health issue has been making everything more difficult. 😕 Anyway, stay safe there! Take care! 🖖😊
I'd love to see a video by you on hand planing tips. For instance, one problem I have is I can get the thin shavings like you do on a board edge but whenever I try to face plane I seem to get way more resistance. As far as I know I'm setting up the plane and everything correctly
Wood and Shop I wanted to try a Hovarter face vise as the mounting instructions make it seem like the best way to do they would be to have an apron on this bench. I was thinking maybe I could laminate an extra 2x4 to the outside of the leg and have the apron laminated to the top with a notch cut in the bottom of the apron to sit on that extra laminated 2x4 on the leg?
Sorry, but l can't find the link that you mentioned about the cabinet latches used on your bench dogs. Why couldn't you have just add it in this videos comment section ?
I usually find the faster videos are used for repetitive tasks that don't add a lot by showing it three times in a row. It would seem odd to make a demonstration video and then be "afraid of showing" what they are doing.
@@PeteTevonian Yes, I agree with you. But if a single thing is shown like the construction of one bench dog (starting at 4:02) it is hardly repetitive.
