Thank you for you Tech Talks! It's very interesting and useful. I'm very interesting how do you put braking hoses on the control arms. Could you show it on the video or at least explain. What brand of lines do you use? HEL Perfomance or something else? Where do you start laying the braided brake hoses? Right before the control arms or from the ABS block? Do you put rigid (metal) brake lines on the control arms? Don't it make the brakes "softer"? The raising of braking hoses instead rigid (metal) brake lines could make brakes "softer", i think. But i'm not sure. Thanks in advance!
Why don’t you mention portals to increase axle height. Is there a more effective way to raise axle height and still limit overall vehicle lift, that portals? Given they are expensive. You gain gear reduction, which should reduce stress on drive train. One could add portals on stock height suspension of a JL and run larger tires. Stock 392 XR tires are 35” with 4.56 gears in a newer style Dana 44 which is much stronger than previous Dana 44. Also can’t you re-valve or adjust valve in stock JL steering box to increase pressure/steering-strength. May need to add a cooler. Seems a lot of your advice is geared toward the hard core off-roader, not weekend warrior, which is fine if that’s how you’re wheeling.
And I’m a fan of hard core wheeling as well. I have a stretched 2006 LJ with 6.1 Hemi, Atlas 4 spd, complete 14” King coil-over Genright suspension system, properly installed, frenched in shock towers, ProRock 60’s, on 42” sticky Treps, PSC full hydrolic steering. Full Genright roll cage and hi-fenders front and rear. But driving on-road comparing to my 2023 392 XR is so night and day. I hate to change anything on the 392. May step up to 37” tires, but with full-time 4-wheel drive, you can’t lift much over 2” before front drive shaft vibration issues. Plus, factory style drive shaft joints will last much longer than current aftermarket style drive shafts. What would you do to clear 37” for offroad and maintain factory look and drivability? (Inner fender chop will gain clearance)
Missed the show and watched on Friday. I would think with showing the CAs, track bars, etc that Tony be specific to the model in comparison. JK/JL platforms are quite different in the physical aspect of the CA/track bars compared to the TJ/LJ platforms. Then the comparison between the stock application design, ie the tre shank of the TJ track bar, to GR's design for use. Explain the benefit of lengthening those track bars, as its similar to the difference of a stock CA length to a LA CA length and explain the benefit of having the track bars parallel to the axle.
I’m in college, at the moment have 2010 jku on 37s 4.5 rock krawler front and 3.5 in rear, looking at upgrading suspension but over time where should I start. Do not have money to do a full kit and it does mostly on road. What should I start with upgrading, front or rear, and with long arm 3 link upfront or with the rear.
