Diamond stone I recommend► Trend 300/1000 grit stone: amzn.to/2nBdaq5 Trend lapping fluid: amzn.to/2nknjF8 Trend Tool & Bit cleaner: amzn.to/2dZkJl3 Trend Kit/C (for router bits, forstner bits, etc.): amzn.to/2nhNLi7 Video about sharpening router bits: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o4AtrNXR5Iw.html Video about sharpening forstner bits: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rLoEulA4mM8.html (We may benefit financially if you use the above affiliate links.) HELP KEEP OUR VIDEOS FREE! Please support those who support us by visiting their websites and having a quick look around- Trend: www.trend-uk.com/en/US/
I just looked at the stone on Amazon. It has a lot of bad reviews. People are saying that it is not flat, has bubbles under the glued-on diamond sheet, sections of diamond sheet peeling off, etc.
@@LucidDreamer54321 And the vast majority of others (94%) are saying the opposite. That's how Amazon reviews work. Everyone that has an issue leaves a poor review, but only a small percentage of those with positive experiences leave one because most people have better things to do than write reviews on Amazon. It skews reality, but it is what it is... All I can tell you is my personal experience and let you make your own decision :)
I use specially prepared water as a sharpening stone lubricant including for Diamond Stones. I add HoneRite Gold anti-corrosion (makes the water rust-proof) additive, added to distilled water, resulting in a suitable sharpening lubricant that prevents rust on both the Diamond Stone and the tool being sharpened.
What a pleasure to watch/listen to a knowledgeable professional, who has prepared an excellent script, and presents it so clearly - with NO distracting background music, no "hey Yo - whats up RU-vid". This is as good as teaching gets. Not just an advertisement to entice clicking of affiliate links - just good, solid, dependable information. Well done!
This is the common sense channel. Quite simply the best I've seen so far. There's no superfluous rubbish- it's straight to the point. Excellent advice. You're well up on every subject you advise on. I was brought up on oilstones, but am considering the diamond stone option. Thank you for your sharing your knowledge. Greetings from France.
I love to sharpen and have used most types of stones and brands over the past 50 years. I have been using the "cheap" yellow DMT product(s) shown in your video since the early 80's and have never had a problem with ANY of them!
Dex Peavy ; Agreed. I don`t do that much sharpening. However I have been using the same DMT "stone" for the last 20 years. Has not changed at all, works the same as the day I bought it. Mine is still red.
Same here. I bought mine as a set a while back. A base and two dbl sided mesh stones. They have served me well and no more trying to keep all my traditional stones the same flatness. I actually use one of diamond stones to flatten the only traditional stone I still use. Very happy with the set.
Thanks James. I have been struggling with all the "expert" advice that is out there. This was clear and easy to understand. You have answered more than one of my questions on this topic. The UP thanks you, eh.
Thank you so much for making this video. I tried the cheap diamond stones and thought I just sucked at sharpening because of how difficult it was to get the chisels razor sharp on diamond stones. I saw this and bought ones which had the electro process described, now I'm a weirdo who enjoys sharpening and I'm gonna get near all the sharp objects!
I have had 3 diamond stones (400, 800, 1200) similar to the yellow plastic one that was shown in the video for almost 20 years. I epoxied each of them to a flat smooth piece of 3/4" granite that were off-cuts from a kitchen renovation I did. I cut each piece of granite the size of the diamond plates (about 2 1/4" x 6") & then epoxied them to the top. The result is a very flat solid set of diamond sharpening stones that have lasted for a couple decades so far. I also applied grip tape, used on stair treads or skateboards, to the bottom of each stone so they stay in place while using them. I have used them often over the years & still use them regularly for almost all my sharpening tasks (depending on the tool, axe, knife or chisel etc) & I have always used a solution of windex & water or simple green. I rinse them in hot water after each use, occasionally I'll use a brush as well (finger nail brush or vegetable brush) while rinsing & then let them air dry on their sides. I have never had a problem with them rusting or delaminating & they still cut just fine.
I have a set of ceramic stones made with man-made sapphires ..I bought them 33 years ago back in 1985 when I bought my registered Trapline ..Now I'm 64 and its time to hang up my snowshoes and sell the line ... Then stones were in my log cabin when she burnt to the ground .. They survived it just fine ..the intense heat didn't seem to bother them .. And yes I've always used vim to clean them and wash them off ..no problem what so ever ...
Good advice on stopping at 1k then stropping. I go to 200k (Yes, really), but I essentially only do that as a ritual at this point - the process is relaxing to me. It's cool to see how sharp you can really get something, and the mirror edges are really nice as well. But, I'll be the first to confirm... I've taken a knife to that level of sharpness, cut up all the cardboard boxes for my weekly trash haul, and already been back to a point where even shaving is a struggle. It's cool, but it doesn't last.
Atoma is the best and lasts the longest, tried all of them, at least for all kind of knives. For polish Ing i use higher grit japanese Water stones, suehiro, shapton and my favourite: naniwa chosera. Depending on the usecase of the knife, i go up to 3k-8k and strop them a few times on the rough leather side up after that. If i want to get a toothy edge, i strop one side of the edge a few times over a 3k stone or a leather with a 4k diamond compound. I fixed and regrinded a ton of knives on my 400 grit atoma, after wearing in, it doesnt seem to be as aggressive to the touch of my finger as new, as soon as i put a blade on it, it still cuts a lot faster than any other stone. I like diamond plates only, if it has to be fast, i need to fix something deep, reprofiling or i need a very toothy edge, otherwise i prefer proper whetstones. The edge of a diamond sharpened tool isnt the same as sharpend on a whetstone.
Cheers for sharing your knowledge in such a straight forward and easy to get the gist of life lessons you have learned. Thanks from an Australian Shed Dweller.
It's such an informative and interesting video that I watched all of it, when in fact I don't have any sharpening to do except my kitchen knives from time to time on an old fashioned two-grit sharpening stone.
I'm a hobbyist knife maker, I have set of DMT brand stones with the yellow plastic backing like you show. You call them cheap and sub par, (they cost around $75 per stone) but I've used them for a decade now. Sharpened many hundreds of knives using water... with no problems. 🤷♂️ But if/when they ever wear out, I might try a "Trend" brand. Looks like they cost around $20 more. Not sure I'd bother with fancy fluids though. That seems like a real pain, IMO.
I've had a good experience with my DMT "duosharp" plates as well... I keep thinking the fine/extra fine must be "done for" but I'll give it one last try.... and it just keeps on cutting. Really good experience with them so far.
He is correct in describing " serviceable sharpness" I however am one of those who find joy in the art of creating an edge worthy of superlatives. Learning everything I can in the pursuit of the perfect edge... Necessary? Probably not. But there's nothing wrong with the pursuit of perfection.
I'm with you on this. I enjoy sharpening, but I don't love it. I DO love the satisfaction of getting a great edge, and then using it. I work a lot in white pine which I find requires steeper bevel angles, and faultless edges, as sharp as I can get them. So: "Serviceable sharpness" is relative to what you are doing.
I've watched three very different views on this: Stumpy, Paul Sellars, and Rob Cosman, and I somehow agree with them all. As a carpenter, I was quite content with a sort and hard Arkansas, which got my chisels sharp enough to shave with (but the ones I have are a bit small for a plane iron). A Trend diamond plate has been really good, and easy to use. But I did ultimately spring for a Shapton 16000 grit, as well. It's probably overkill for most jobs, but for the final finish with a smoothing plane, I think it's worth the expense and effort. So, 1000 for dimensioning, 16000 (and resharpen frequently ) for finish. A similar thought process has me starting to think my Lie-Nielsen #4 1/2 might have been a reasonable expense, but maybe I don't need to go quite so deluxe for a #7...
Thanks again for your great explaination of using the diamond stone and undertanding the details.. I really enjoyed meeting you and talking to you at the TREND booth at the NOVI, MI WOODWORKING SHOW. As always, great information....
After viewing this video sometime ago, I purchased a Trend Diamond stone. I use it all the time and it is everything that you said about it. Thank you and best wishes.
Wuauuu! You have managed in a single video to clarify all doubts regarding the diamond stones. Thanks so much, your channel is really useful and full of knowledge.
Hi Thank you for posting this video. Got my Trend from Amazon and today was my first chance to try diamond stone on some hand planes and I was very impressed with the results. The process of sharpening took less than all the things I tried in the past and I don't have to worry about need to flatining me stone etc. So thank you again and will keep watching your videos.
Thanks! I'm completely new to this because sharpening is actually pretty relaxing and helps me sort my thoughts. I already used water on my diamond plates but they were cheaper ones so I'm fine for the next single double sided one I'll get. Gonna get that Trend Fluid, wanna keep doing it and I intend to do it right
I have a very good EZE Lap diamond plate embedded on a wood base. I sharpen by hand and I hold the stone and knife in my hands when I sharpen. (It's how I learned) The wood base is helpful to keep me from slipping and scratching the blades. It started as a medium grit, but is now medium fine, but then again it is 16 years old. I use water on it as its a stainless metal. I use my diamond first and then finish with a hard Arkansas stone just to polish the edge up. Most of my cutting tools get a working edge or a butcher's edge. A polished edge so sharp you can shave your face with is too sharp for many applications, although I do polish the edges on my leather tools. I make knives for a profitable hobby and have done so for 25 years now. A diamond stone is a necessity for some of the high vanadium steels as they are very wear resistant. I made a knife from D2 tool steel and found sharpening it with a regular stone took way too long and then I found out about diamond stones.
Something more important to protecting your diamond stones than oil and water: Avoid high pressure on the stone. If you bear down too hard, say 20 pounds on something like a narrow chisel, you could get 1000 PSI at the point of contact, causing damage to the stone. Remember, when the contact area goes down, the PSI goes up!
I am genuinely astounded at the quantity of idiotic and spiteful comments. Personally I really enjoy your videos mate, I always learn some useful tidbits and your style of presentation is concise, clear and light hearted. Keep up the awesome work Mr Nubs! PS, please do more videos where you discuss the construction and style of period furniture, they are fascinating and your passion for woodworking really shines in those videos.
Love this video. A comment, recent reviews of cheap double-sided diamond plates show that the coarse sides are contaminated with larger diamond particles, which make them coarse at the end of the day
I use an ammonia free glass cleaner on my diamond plates and wet or dry sandpaper as recommended by Paul Sellers. I get it at Dollar General for $1.00 a bottle. Works great, doesn't cause rust and is cheap.
Hey, I'm one of those that enjoy my Zen moment sharpening blunt blades, and the five cuts on my hand prove that sometimes I "Zen" out a little too much! But that workshop of yours with all those tools in the background. There is no such thing as too many blades.
I too admit to being a sharpening weirdo/geek but if it’s only as sharp as a scalpel, it’s just not sharp enough! And yes I did eat paste in kindergarten.
Joe Smith yeah plus I feel its kinda nice knowing that your tools are like an extension of who you are and the more time and dedication you put towards them the better results you'll get. I don't know though, could be just me haha
gape Coca: I live by the adage: a sharp tool is a safe tool. Good steel + good sharpening setup = scary sharp blades. My setup uses 2 DMT diamond stones (XX coarse and X coarse) and 1000, 3000, 10K, and 13K grit ceramic stones (Sigma Power Select II). I finish with a leather strop with the green honing compound. That mirror finish makes me happy. I agree with the Samurai Carpenter: learn to free hand sharpen and save the money you would have spent on honing jigs on better equipment. My blades cut through red oak and leave a beautiful smooth finish.
Brian M. That's one hell of a setup you got there, I eventually want to have similar stones. And I bet they would leave a beautiful finish. Keep working hard! And stay safe my friend
The setup is worth it though. It leaves a mirror finish and a very, very sharp blade. If you use O1 or PMV-11's it creates an incredibly sharp edge. I don't recommend creating a micro bevel either since it changes the geometry of the cutting edge. I have zero problems planing red oak and cherry and it leaves a smooth finish.
Been using an Atoma japanese diamond lapping plate for 4 years now. It has an aluminum base with a replaceable pad. Held on by adhesive. Still within 1/10k of an inch. I know your against them but I would give it a try. Best tolerances on the market imo.
I love my mind to be numbed. I love sharpening knives. My favorite is stropping, lol. 😀 So I started stropping while watching your video. A Mora this time
Sonny I do like this and am so glad I have learned from it! I keep on buying stuff and regret it but now I have learned the sharpening I did not always do often well enough. I have learned and the tools are treasured and will not go anywhere while I am able to look after it. Later, God knows! The Young Ones will not have learned unless they learn NOW! Thank You Sir, You are much younger than me but your tool shed is impressive as the SHOW!
No, I don’t think he was referring to himself at all. He said he believes people like that should be kept away from sharp objects, calls them lunatics, and refers to the practice of sharpening as mind numbing. 0:22
For lubricant on my diamond stones I use 1 cap full of Honeright Gold w/ distilled water in a 250ml spray bottle. Plate doesn't rust, it's reasonably priced, thin enough film thickness for 400 and 1200 grit Atoma plate and 250ml is enought for a year of home sharpening and cleaning the stones after use. BTW the 300/400 grit stones also can be used to flatten water stones.
I also cut gem stones and use numerous diamond laps. A well made lap should be fine with water based lubricants. If a lap rusts it was not plated very well. The nickel plating should be bonded to the steel plate affording protection from rust. Believe me, the volume of lubricant needed for cutting gems, you are not going to be buying tiny bottles of expensive honing fluid. A little liquid dish soap or Simple Green in water is fine. Paul Sellers has been using the same laps for years with nothing more than glass cleaner. I do concur on not needing more than 1000 mesh. My finest mesh is 1200 for cutting gems. I go straight from that to a Lucite lap charged with aluminum oxide for mirror polishing on gem stones a lot harder than any steel. Charge your strop with white diamond (aluminum oxide ) compound or green compound (chromium oxide). These both come in hard blocks you can rub on your leather for charging.
David Johnston Yes sir, you are correct. I've worked a lot in gem stones also and it really can be helpful in putting an edge on metal, even had a bit of a side business sharpening knives.
I also agree, but the Trend Diamond stones rust so easily it kind of is disturbing. I have the trend stone but will be switching to the same stones paul sellers uses due to not wanting to spend a few hundred dollars a year on lapping fluid.
You could sub regular car antifreeze for the overly expensive lapping fluid. It provides excellent lubrication and contains corrosion inhibitors. I've used a 50/50 mix in my diamond gem saws for years now. The metal in those saw blades will rust just from looking at them while thinking about water.
Me to, I started with it and never found a reason to change. I contemplated trying Fantastic spray cleaner, bur I worry it could leave a deposit that might get gummy. I've read several times that if you add a couple drops of dish soap to water that works quite well.
Based on this recommendation, I just bought the Trend 300/1000 plate. I’ve only sharpened one chisel so far, but it is wicked sharp! I was astonished at how much more sharp it was. I can’t wait to see what it does with my plane irons… Thanks!
Dear Stumpy, I am so sad to hear you are not experiencing the fantastic feeling of Zen tranquility that comes from becoming one with your sharpest edge!
Guess I'm one of those weirdos who enjoys sharpening. Great video, really helpful discussion about lubricants and why the price difference in diamond stones.
I find myself sharpening my tools even when they are razor sharp, it is very satisfying and relaxing. I'm certainly one of the "weirdos" that find it enjoyable
Sounds like you could be spending time sharpening the tools of others in that time when yours are already sharp. I heard it's like 2X up to 8X more satisfying and enjoyable
Great information, thanks for sharing! I think some are giving you a hard time about the lunatic joke because your delivery was flatter than those monocrystaline stones you are raving about!
I love keeping my tools sharp and in good condition. With diamond it's very quick. I've been using water for years with no problems. I rinse with the hottest water I can get out of my sink, dry with a paper towel and the heat drys any water I've missed. I also do my kitchen knives. I used to do my ceramic knives but I gave them away. I can actually get a better edge on steel. I think the ceramic edge crumbles microscopically even if you sharpen to a relatively coarse angle. Concerning steel tools, you get to know which ones take a really good edge and which are so, so. Even the same brand of high quality tools aren't always uniform in their ability to take and hold a sharp edge. I make pretty good violins and truly sharp tools make a big difference.
I get the feeling the honing fluid is just to make money, been using water in mine and it's fine. Just drying off well and leave it in the open to dry.
You are absolutely correct about the ceramic kitchen knife blades "crumbling". It's why they keep cutting, not because of the hardnessnof the ceramic- The edges on these constantly crumble, giving a ragged saw like edge. See the microphotographs of this here: scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2018/02/24/ceramic-blades/
The reviews on Tend diamond stones indicate issues with raised edges, that they are not flat, inconsistent diamond coverage and last but not least they wear too fast. If these issues do not present themselves to a percentage of buyers that just means the quality control and consistency of manufacture is less than what it should be for the price.
Pete Kelly I dropped my money on Sigma Power Select II ceramic stones. They wear fast but evenly and cuts well. I also have a Norton truing stone and a nagura stone. I use diamond stones (DMT) for fixing edges. Diamond stones are awesome, abraded stupid fast (on O1 or PMV-11 it performs brilliantly), and is durable.
I purchased three diamond sharpening plates and did not use any lubricant. I cleaned the plates after each use but, will buy the Trend oil product that you recommended. I purchased Atoma diamond plates from Japan and they work great. I also purchased arkansas stones, 3M polishing film and water stones because I want to compare each one.
Great clarity! Loved that your videos contain no long pauses and backtracks and ums , and ahhhh etc that so many videos contain today. Those types of videos are painful yo watch.Great job! Thanks!
I've been using my plastic base dmt plates with water for over 10 years, no issues at all. The only one that actually isn't holding up is the 120 mesh stone which is the only one on a solid metal plate.
Yeah, I think the guy is trying to sell the Trend product. The plastic on DMTs and Eze-Laps doesn`t really effect anything, flatness comes from the metal plates glued to the plastic, and if you dry em nothing should rust.
I've used the plastic DuoSharp diamond sharpening stone professionally for over 25yrs with water, it's still going strong with no prob, my mistake was buying the fine/extra fine when i should have bought the middle one, coarse/fine. The extra fine on is too fine for general use.
I have been using the DMT plates for around 7 years now. I have to agree. If anyone follows the link he posted read the reviews, not impressed compared to my DMT set that works fine with water.
There is nothing wrong wit those stones! Stumpy doesn't know what he's talking about, he's just trying to promote the lapping fluid which you dont need!
Here in the future, I'm looking between Trend and DMT, and I'm finding lots of quality issues with the Trend diamond blocks. DMT still seems to have a huge fanbase, along with Atoma. I like Stumpy, but this recommendation is a miss. I'm hopping on the DMT train!
I think Paul Sellers uses windex with his stones. It's in the same category as water, though -- accidentally got a few drops on my band saw table and ended up with a bit of annoying rust to clean off.
All of the, ahem, solutions, used as alternatives to water are still water based. The reason they will work better, although I'm not sure how much better, is that they all have surfactants (think detergent) that lowers the surface tension. And when you're trying to keep intimate contact between the tool and stone that will matter. Like I said, I don't know if you can perceive it but it will have some impact. That said, I've been using water forever. Maybe I'll try it. And if you want to just a few drops of dishwashing soap per liter should be fine.
When he says he buys 500 ml of glass cleaner he is not talking about windshield washer solvent. 500 ml is about 17 ounces as you would buy in a spray bottle.
Paul Sellers does use window cleaner, but I don't think he uses plates I am pretty sure he uses stones, although I think with the ammonia in glass cleaner it takes the water with it when it flashes off (dries) so no worries of rust, think about when you clean a window and you watch the streaks of moister evaporate in front of your eyes. But this is all guessing, I uses plates and glass cleaner and it works well, no rust in almost 2 years.
you're all wrong. it's not Windex or automotive windshield washer fluid. He uses glass cleaner. not to be confused with window cleaner. And yes he uses diamond plates. Eze Lap plates to be specific
I always enjoy your Vid's and this one is no exception. As a matter of fact it was rather timely so I'm off to spend my and with your help I will spend much less (in the long run) Mr. Nubbs I hope you have a grand day
I bought the Trend 300 / 1000 diamond stone. However, the $5 an ounce Trend honing fluid is off the table for me. My favorite British woodworker considers the value proposition akin to a snake oil selling. He still uses automotive glass cleaner. I hope the two sided Trend stone I just bought lasts. I am still in the breaking in mode. Amazon reviews are mostly good but the negative reviews are flatness issues and diamonds falling off. I hope the Trend warranty is not contingent upon buying and using the Chanel no. 5 priced honing fluid.
Prof10000 A mix of Simple Green and water (50/50 mix) also works well since it provides lubrication but prevents rust. Also works for drilling steel too. Got that one from AskWoodman.
If you are sharpening by hand and not in a jig, the flatness of the stone is negligible. I doubt any of the viewers out there could even measure the difference. I have used the multi layered stones (DMT) for many many years and checked my work on an optical comparator, its nice having a full machine shop at your disposal. The price difference between them (multilayered) and a single piece unit is just not worth it considering the results.
Flatness my be less important with knives, but this video is about woodworking tools. And flatness does make a BIG difference when you are sharpening a hand plane.
Stumpy Nubs then you should be sharpening with a jig. Or having them precision ground by a qualified grind shop. If you are sharpening it by hand you are going to be at a minimum of 5 tenthousandths out, just from going between grits. I doubt you have the set up and proper equipment to even measure that, so it's a moot point.
And for industrial applications, they’re better due to having fewer imperfections. The only reason “real” diamonds fetch a premium is b/c of debeers marketing around their mystique.
Concise and useful information. I use Arkansas, ceramic, water, and diamond. All of them will sharpen, but diamond stones will do it quicker. I generally use diamonds just for my harder-to-sharpen steel: M390, CPM-S90V, and Elmax. I use Trend stones and lapping fluid for 1000 grit and under and mineral oil for my DMT higher grit diamond stones. Since I am sharpening knives, not chisels, I care about the smooth, polished bevel; therefore, I use Arkansas, water, ceramic, and diamond stones in that order, depending upon the metal. There is a correlation between the more aggressive stones and the rougher edges.
Of course it's a joke. Why, did some people not get it? I LOL! Awesome video. I loved it. Many thanks for sharpening the knowledge, I mean, SHARING the knowledge!
Thanks, I have watched lots of sharpening videos and tried all types of sharpeners. Your video has reassured me that one stone can do it all. Marvellous!
“Diamonds are the hardest material on Earth.” Pffftt..... whatever. You should meet my ex. I guarantee her shriveled, black, hardened heart would slice through a diamond like butter.
Fascinating! I love your channel for the different take and technical bent. I sharpen knives, not tools, but most of this still applies although some things are a bit different.
7:16 "...but wood is an abrasive material and after a couple of stroke your 20000 grit edge is gonna be worn down to that 1000 grit anyway..." ......5 MINUTES STANDING OVATION.
I concur wholeheartedly. I've stumbled across some videos where the great zen honing master is getting all masturbatory over his near mythical Japanese natural waterstones and the magical properties they impart to his steel. Now... every man needs a hobby, and I can see the appeal that sharpening steel to a ludicrous degree might have to the obsessively inclined. I really do. But I work wood for a living. I havn't got the time. Sharp enough will have to do. Been using a set of 3 plastic-based DMT diamond stones with water the last 4 - 5 years. Very pleased with them.
@Dick Fageroni sorry to say this i agree that stropping is the method that is used for ages and it is one of the most effective older techniques out there. But a razor is not to be compared with a chisel or any other woodworking edge. Because of the complete different metal composition...
All edges look like a saw under a microscope, and how coarse the saw teeth are dictates how fast the edge turns dull. So, a finer edge will remain sharp longer. This is also why wood, a material softer than metal, works as an abrasive - because the blade has tiny teeth that gets stuck and bent on the wood. That said, depending on what you’re doing should dictate how you’re honing. A chef has better use of a 6k stone than a bushcrafter or carpenter
@@AndreasNkleby Most of the times, indeed, a carpenter doesn't need to go above 3000 or 4000. But that's for planing, not finishing surfaces. You can never get a surface as smooth with abrasives as you get with a plane. Some Japanese guys (obviously!) made a video with microscope photos of planed and sanded surfaces. No matter how fine, sandpaper always leaves fibers that are torn but still attached to the surface, and decrease the smoothness. A plane cuts all fibers at the same length (provided it's sharpened by a maniac) and leaves a significantly smoother surface behind. True, the cutting edge won't hold for long - that's why, when you go to such grit, you need to resharpen often.
There are applications where having an extremely sharp steel using a much higher grit than 1k is desired. Not really needed when you are just hacking away.
I use your expertise quite a bit. I got an old Stanley (rather long, I’ve forgotten the name) plane last year off of EBAY. Flattened the sole starting yesterday using sand paper. OMG. Anyway it’s smooth has a mirror shine. Flattened using a sheet of glass. That said I do know there’s more to be done and the iron needs sharpening too. So I RU-vidd Stumpy - ordering the Trend lube and stone in a few… Thanks again for well presented, no bs videos.👊
Al Dever In my local church in Northern England the men of the village used to sharpen thier swords and arrows on the stone pillar just inside the church, the idea being you might also get some divine protection that way! The grooves can be seen to this day in the stone.
This was so helpful. I have just bought brand new chisels and did not want them anywhere near my oil stone which has more peaks and valleys than something with a lot of peaks and valleys!
