Water Heater Installation -Why my 3 year old water heater failed! 

Okay guys! Tell me what you think about that old tank? Also, did you come to watch the water heater installation or to watch me cut open my old tank? Leave a comment below and tell me⤵️

This is just one reason it's always a good idea to filter your tap water before you drink or cook with it.

At first I was interested in the instal, but found the condition of the old heater to be a huge bonus. The whole video was great 👍 Thanks

Recommend loosening the new anode rod (remove and reinstall with some pipe dope) so you can get it out in 2-3 years. Your water is eating those anode rods, so play to replace every 2 years or so. If you have removed it before, it is much easier to get out than one that's been rusting in place for a long time. Also recommend replacing the drain valve with a full port valve; best is a short brass nipple (3-4" long), a full port ball valve (threaded in/out), a second nipple (2"), a street 45 deg fitting, a hose adapter nipple (3/4" IPS to 3/4 GHT) and a cap. About $25 in fittings what you can use from tank to tank. This will give a much better success at annual flushing as the passages are much larger than the one supplied from the factory. If you flush every year, and change the anode rod before it's gone, you should get a lot of life out of the new heater. Actually, the old heater looks like it could have just used an anode rod, a better flush valve, and some maintenance -- but that doesnt make for good youtube videos :)... Good luck

I agree with you. The tank is ruined with a big rectangle hole in its tank. Ha ha My water heater is 27 years old with zero problems. I contribute that because it uses water form the water softener.

just passed you on trip and decatur! instant sub love supporting the locals man

I just so happened to professionally install these for a handful of years recently. Rheems for The Home Depot, primarily, but almost everything under the sun, actually. So here's my takes on things. So, the smell you had in your water was from the absence of the anode rod. I'm guessing water in Nevada ain't that great, but it seems like there could be a variety of contributing factors here. Galvanized piping. Is the whole house the stuff, or is this branch leading to the water heater the last of it? Repipers seem like they can't be arsed to move water heaters for their work. Also, though I'm sure they still sell them in big box stores I'm sure, saddle valves are a violation of code in Nevada, actually. And they really don't help galvanized nipples. I'm surprised you were able to reuse it, honestly. And frankly, I wouldn't. The seal between flex lines and the corroding edges of galvanized nipples are a routine failure point I saw. My (and others) methodology was to replace every bit of galvanized pipe leading to the water heater before a female fitting with a brass nipple. Galvanized fittings (especially the ancient made in USA one) hold up incredibly well. The pipe is nothing near. Also, gate valves are generally terrible and very rarely successfuly shut off the water heater, so we replace these all with ball valves. And no, this was not hunting for making money off the customer. I did everything in my power to skirt charging customers additional money when I was doing that job, and the way in which I was compelled to was a huge part of why I left. Other things. (I should say, I've seen plenty of other videos, including one from This Old House that were super unprofessional, this one is nowhere on that level. Our low tier installers with the company would have done worse.) The use of flex lines as drain line for temperature and pressure relief valves is unsupported by code. As chintzy as it seems, CPVC is kind of the best thing for this. I mean, copper's actually the best, but it's costly and requires knowing how to sweat. Also, I would have got a Bradford White or some other specific model of water heater that had a top mount T+P option. Furthermore, you can remove the valve and thread it back in with new tape and dope and alter which direction it is pointing so long as it is not oriented to drain upwards. Diagonally would help here. Also, a thing I would do for customers was salvage the good brass drain valves off of dead tanks (particularly Rheem Gladiator electric water heaters that had an almost 90% failure rate for their upper thermostat) and use them to replace the craptastic plastic drain valves like the one you've got here. You can buy Everbuilt ones at HD for not too much. Another small thing, the C-vent isn't seated as well on the draft diverter as it should be. :/ And another thing for the galvanized piping, the rust, and etc.: I would forego using the copper flex lines. Strictly speaking, they are considered fine and equivalent to dielectric unions and whatnot, but you are inserting a dissimilar metal between two similar metals needlessly. The stainless flex lines really can't be beat, Brasscraft especially. As for the anode rod situation, you should definitely open up your drain valve and dump some water every year or so, and get yourself a 1-1/16 6-point socket and maybe replace it in a year and a half or 2 years with an aluminum one. The magnesium ones are generally considered better, but it seems like some water is like piranha solution to magnesium but behaves normally on aluminum. Also, maybe it was intentional, but the thumbnail seems to suggest you are replacing a gas Rheem with an electric AO Smith. Lastly, if it's not too late, you could have scavenged a fairly valuable part from the Rheem that you could have held onto for someone in a pinch or sold on craigslist or something. The TRD. Or thermal release device, I think. It's in the burner section. It's a fire sprinkler head-like capsule mechanism that basically doesn't exist for sale and will "brick" a modern FVIR tank for good if you can't get one if it should break. Which happens quite often with 75s.

Can direct vent FVIR rated gas water heater be placed on the floor in a garage?

How has it worked for you sir

You have really soft water you could have just replaced the anode rod and flushed tank really well and it would have lasted you another 3 years this new water heater will do the same thing in 3 years the rod it self last 3-5 years in ur case I would change it in 2 1/2 years to 3 years or look into fixing ur soft water issue

Another reason that you have orange water and smells like metal maybe because you still have galvanize pipes in ur house

Just install a water heater, they cost less than those HOT water heaters

Definitely don't cook with the heated water. Gross lol