Water Pump and Housing Refresh| Triumph Spitfire Restoration - Part 103 

Flying Dutchman in Oregon, if you want to upgrade. 6 vane prop.

You got the water-pump fixings figured out, which is good. However, based on my experiences from about a decade ago, I would try to source good used water-pump studs. The originals are shorter on the housing end and longer on the pump side. The replacements I got from several vendors (again, about a decade ago) are of equal length on each side. This is a bit of a problem in all circumstances; however, the thickness of the bases on replacement water pumps varies quite a bit, and for the thicker ones the shorter studs are a serious problem--you'll never get a nut on them, especially with a lock washer. (I discuss this in a little bit of detail [with photos] in a segment of Episdoe 8 on my channel.) Anyway, I've been doing the exact same cleanup work on my GT6 water-pump housing, so your video is quite timely!

I'm curious how you treated the main body between evaporust and paint - did you remove all the surface rust/flash rust? Primer?

Check where the weep hole is, bottom of the pump, for leaking after startup cause it's about 50/50 chance to leak from corrosion working its way into the seal faces while its been sitting. If it's leaking, just let it run, with the cap off so there's no pressure pushing coolant through the seal, for 5-15 minutes to let the seal faces cut through any corrosion and start doing their job of sealing again. If 15 minutes doesn't do it, then it's time for another one. The studs should be available at any good(not a chain) auto parts place, seen those big orange Dorman cabinets with all the drawers of different stuff, or just cut up a bolt, or get a long bolt from a starter, generator or those wooden spools that electrical supply houses throw out and cut your own threads on it!. Just crazy to order stuff like that unless you're in the middle of the desert & all ya got is camel dung..