Thank you so very much for posting this video. I just moved into my house 5 months ago and I have never owned a water softener before. When the brine water would not drain out of the tank I searched RU-vid and found your video. While my water softener is a bit different than the one that you showed, I have an Eco Water Softener that came with the house, the concept was exactly the same. your video was very helpful in showing what to look for and how to remove the line clamps. like I said thank you very much for posting this video, you saved me a $100 service call.
Thanks Gary for your videos. My brine tank wasn't draining. You mentioned several possible problems. Mine was the brine float tube had salt accumulating in the bottom blocking the slots. I siphoned the water out of the tank and used a shop vac to suck the salt out of the float tube. Did a recharge and it worked properly.
Very knowledgeable. Thank you. Only one question remains. How do you empty the water overflow? Can I just suck it out with a shopvac, or as soon as the problem is fixed, the softener will empty itself?
How high should the water level be in the brine tank? My guess is that mine is set too high as I'm going through a lot of salt ( 50 lb/ week) and the tank is 3/4 full of water. Have been trying to find out what the correct level is, but the videos I've seen don't address that. Thanks, Jim
Great video. Too much water in the tank and would not drain out. I had to manually remove the extra water out of the tank. I located the plugged orifice just as shown. Cleaned it now and will see if this is it. I am confident my problem is solved. Thank You!
I had water spewing from the water softener last week, paid company to “fix” the issue, cost me over 500 bucks, 3 weeks later same thing! I got awoken at 1:30 am with noise from basement went down and water was spraying everywhere, am so furious!
Can you please explain to me what the hard water setting does? Does that determine the amount of time between regens or does it do something with the way it makes the water flow over the media? How do you determine what that setting should be?
Hey Gary, first off - THANK YOU for all of these informative videos. They’ve been such a huge help! I’m new to my softener system and wanted to know if my water level in the brine tank seems too high or if it’s fine as-is. It’s a Clack WS1 3-button valve on a tank that’s probably around 40-45 inches tall. The brine tank is about 32.5 inches from the ground to the inside lip (without the lid on top which would add some height) and it’s a square tank likely a 14x14 or even larger. I have brownish foamy water above the salt. The salt is about 9 inches from the ground and the water’s about 11 inches from the ground. I watched the entire regen cycle to see if I had air leaks in the brine line or any other issue and it operated totally normal without issue as far as I could tell. The water level drained way down so I could see the top of the air check and then the system filled to the height described during the final fill cycle. I waited over night to see if the level changed and it didn’t move at all. I also did the steps in this video to look for water movement between the drain and the brine by removing the E clips and fittings. No movement even when I turned faucets on. I’m just concerned about seeing water above my salt (11 inches) when the salt is about 9 inches high. Is that something that sounds normal or abnormal? If it’s abnormal and all of the other high water causes are eliminated, could it be the tech entered a setting that’s sending too much water to the brine tank? It’s at my first home I just bought, which had been vacant for a few months and therefore had brine tank with no salt so I had a tech come out to clean the tank, fill it, and put the system settings in to make sure I started off right. Thank you!
Thanks Gary, I found the salt had formed a dense block around the brine tube. I used a shop vac to remove the excess water and removed most of the salt. That was yesterday and the water level in the brine tank is at its normal level and all seems to be fine. Thanks for the great RU-vid video!!
Thank you for posting this video. I have little beads (?resin) clogging up my faucets, does this mean the water softener system (Kinetico K-50) has failed?
Gary thanks for your video, I have a question and hope you can answer , I have a new 64,000 G Aquasure water softener, my question is that it came programmed to use 60 minutes for the brine draw time, but it uses all the water in the brine tank way before the 60 minutes is up, is this normal? And if it is why would it need 60 minutes when it only takes about 40 minutes to use all the salt water brine ?
That is common practice with all water softeners. I tneeds the time to not only draw out the brine but to also slowly rinse the brine out of the media tank to the drain to fully regenerate the media.
I really enjoy watching your videos Gary and have learned so much! I'm hoping to get help troubleshooting a problem that I'm having with water constantly dripping out of the brine elbow into the brine tank. I have to use a pail to empty the brine tank every several hours. Everything else seems to be working properly during regeneration. Any insight as to what could be causing this problem would be greatly appreciated!
Itt sounds like water is leaking past the seals. I would replaice the pisrons and seals, we have them here waterestore.com/products/clack-ws1-softener-rebuild-kit-wrench
Hi Gary, My 2 piece water softener was installed about two years ago by the same plumbing company that did the plumbing in our new build home. During a recent water filtration maintenance appointment the technician noticed that the drain line was to small that had been installed by the original installer. He said that the drain line need to have a 😂1/2” line to drain properly. What do you think?
Our brine tank is not draining. Water flows in but not out. We check all the stuff you mentioned in the video except the float tube. The float is working fine. If there is not salt at the bottom of the tube is there anything else to check? All lines are fine, too. Thanks for your videos. Because of youtube I fixed my dishwasher and a ton of other stuff. So grateful for people like you who share your knowledge. I so don't want to call Culligan...they'll just wanna replace the whole unit.
I don't know if you're familiar with Culligan, but it's a Culligan Medallist Plus Series 45 water softner with timeclock. The water goes into the brine and sits there until it's time for the washing cycle. LOL
@@bekayezme i have a culligan no clogging and float is fine. When I start the registration barley any water is going out the tube and after an hour I check on it the thing is full of water and won't go down!!! What can I do??
I think that your video was quite informative, however I do believe that you should point out to viewers that softeners need pressure to work correctly. Too lower pressure on the incoming supply would cause a brine bin overflow. The Clack system that you are showing will need a minimum of 2 Bar pressure to function correctly. Good overview Gary.
Good point, I have never run into a situation where the home had less than 28 psi. But if that were the case yes, it would not work in that situation. Also, there may be issues if the pressure is more than 90psi.
This video was the most educational one. Thank you so much. My softener completely stopped working. I will let you know how it goes after following these steps !!!!
Hi Gary, I have some problem with clark ws1 CI head. It is working with greensand, regenerated by kmno4. Regardless of the length of backwash, regeneration and rinse, purple water appears in the system. I have test turned off the kmno4 sucking stage to make the "regeneration" consist of backwash and rinse only. Despite this, purple water still appears in the system. I noticed that probably the head is sucking the regenerate from the tank during the completion of the whole regeneration process, while going into filter mode. I think so, because during the rinse clean water comes out into the duct, and at the very end of the process, when you can hear that the mechanism in the head switches to the water filtration position, very purple water comes out into the duct for a moment. Therefore, no matter how long the rinse times are set, I always have purple water in the system and have to pour several minutes of tap water until the system clears. I checked if and when it was sucking fluid. I unplugged the hose from the brine tank and while holding my finger on it I observed the suction. It looks like when the head goes into backwash mode, meaning the piston is moved deep - to the end of the head, the hose spits out some water. But at each successive stage, as the piston is moved back to the max, and as it moves to the next stage it goes back to the front from the end, at the same time it sucks up some fluid through the hose. As a result, it actually pours fluid on my filter column at the end while moving back into the filtration position.... I checked the basket and the pistons, they look rather functional - the pistons move quite tightly inside the basket. Is this slight spitting and sucking during piston operation normal in Clack heads or is something wrong here?
It sounds like there is water leaking past the pistons and seals and the valve needs to be rebuilt. We have the parts here waterestore.com/search?type=product&q=clack*%20piston*
Thank you Gary for your info, check everything step by step, and looks clean, but inside the spacers, one of the gaskets is turndown (broken). I need to replace the espaces. Where do I get the spacers for this Valve you showed in this video ?
I liked the video you made and quit informative. I have a Whirlpool that very close to the one in your video. It is only about a year old or so. But I am having a problem with the larger "O" ring leaking and filling the outer salt tank and over flowing in to the overflow tube. I have taken it apart several times but with just a little fix of it leaking. It appears to be pretty much strait forward, but is there a secret to this.
Thank you for the good video. My problem is a high pressure leak between the resin tank and the unit that sits on top. The screws are tight on the base connection with resin tank. Any ideas what's wrong?
I am a bit confused. It seems most of the things you mentioned control restricting the water going to the brine tank which means there will be less water in the brine tank, not more than expected. In my case, my float stops flow so the max water allowed in the brine tank is always in there and not controlled by my Fleck 5600 mechanical timer water softener. Maybe I don't understand the regeneration process. Does the water softener meter how much water is put into the brine/salt tank or does it put the max into the tank and then meter how much is drawn out of the tank at regeneration time?
You may want to check out this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-udmE-hhh084.html The settings in the water softener determine how much water goes into the brine tank which determines how much salt you use. It draws all of the water out of the brine tank during regeneration.
@@water_estoreThe setting is at 10 pounds but I checked again yesterday that during refill the float stops the flow. Not sure how to know how much water is calculated to create 10 pounds of brine but nevertheless I would think if the float stops flow at 10 pounds, that means that my unit can never use more than 10 pounds and the internal control will have little effect
Water should only be going out throught the drain line during regeneration. This video should help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cFy-M6i7_Ms.html
Ok, the water line from the main resin tank discharges water and instead of going out the drain, it is going into my brine tank; it must be connected incorrectly by plumbers. @@water_estore
First, I'm SO glad that I came upon your channel; so many great videos. I'm trying to troubleshoot mine, which has water coming out and into the sump pump area, but it's still filling up. EDIT: I broke up a salt bridge, confirmed that the venturi area is fine (although, I believe that I only found 1 flow plug), and now water is flowing in but not rising. Previously, even with water flowing out and into the sump pump area, it was still rising. There's a few inches of water, about where it should be during normal operation, but I still hear water being "pulled"/allowed in. EDIT 2: now, in looking at videos/pics, I see that there's another flow plug besides the lower one: FLOW PLUG 15 GPM GEH-WS22X10036 So I took it apart to cofirm that it is not there - and it isn't - but when I re-assembled and turn things back on, just as before the water is heard flowing - and is exiting the tank - but now the level is also rising inside of the brine tank?! I didn't make a single change to anything, and yet now it's both heard pulling water (and flowing out), but also the level is increasing. ANY thoughts on what could be going on, or how I should proceed to troubleshoot?
Got flooded into a farm home and went from city to well. I knew nothing and with your videos and others I have become a well water plumber. I thank you.
I have the opposite problem Gary. I have way to little water being returned to the Brine tank.... Only a quarter of a gallon is returned to the tank.... It's a high efficiency water softener but that seems crazy low
So checking the spacer stack and pistons...the part you removed the drain line and brine line on mine both were quite filled with water which means I need to replace my spacer stack and pistons? Thanks! I’m learning lots from watching your videos
Hi Gary, I have a Excalibur Chlor A Soft water softener brand new installed. i noticed the brine tank has water in it after each regn.... each time it adds more and it doesn't drain at all. in Manual it says Improper program setting could be the cause of the too much water in brine tank... any suggestion on how I can program it?
So, I go through easy over 200lbs of salt in 60 days. For 4 years its been full of water with brown stuff floating, regardless of how much i washed it in the driveway with bleach. I thought it was bacteria and now realized it was iron. So using iron out things are better, but still over flow of water by 20 inches. I think i have to take it apart like you and check all this. The home builder made me waste so much salt, time and money on salt for 4 years by not installing it right. It was never not floating full of water even when it was a brand new house.
Have your raw water tested to find out exactly how hard your water is and how much iron you have. From there you can use the info in this video to set it up correctly ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XMY69hdhX44.html
Great advice, thanks. Also... my right speaker has an issue and doesn't play sound sometimes. I have to hit it a few times to make it work again... so, I just slapped the hell out of it, before realizing it's the video.
My brine tank is 20 years old and I think has a small leak as water builds up outside of it - though I am not sure where the leak is coming from. I just had the tank replaced thinking it may be caused by that but it is not. What should I do - as I am annoyed that the people I hired to fix the problem just wanted to sell me a new water tank for $1,300 rather than fix the real problem which I believe is the brine tank.
@@water_estore Sorry I found out the water leak was coming from the air conditioner's compensate box because it had been unplugged and was overflowing onto the floor. Bottom line though I did not need a new Pump tank for $1,300 dollars - just needed to plug the damn compensate device back in. 😠
I've got a crazy problem. My brine tube keeps popping off of the float tube. I've changed the insert, I re-tightened, several times. Each time it is "on" but by a cycle or two, it comes off. Any ideas??
Hello Gary, I let my KCL level get down to a few inches low but not empty and the brine tank was full of water when I went to add more. I drained the water and added the KCL but my EcoWater is not softening the water anymore. I have watched the way the unit works and everything seems right. It starts with a fill, then a long brine, then a backwash, then a fast rinse and then to service. the fill works, fills the brine tank with about a foot of water. Then during the brine cycle the brine tank is almost emptied. Then the slow backwash and fast rinse cycles complete and it goes into service. My kettle calcifies and the water doesn't have a salty taste like before. Any Ideas? THX
Thanks for posting these videos. I got a question, I have a 5810 valve and most of the time it is draining. I'm loosing lots of water down the drain. I believe my unit is about 48000 capacity and the hardness is 25. I also have it on softener metered. Any idea what I can do to fix this. Thank you
Your video is very helpful! I am going to go threw the process of it but I have a question I hope you can help on?!? I have a culligan water softener and I don't know where to find the little filter you pulled out to soak in CLR? Also do you put it in bye pass when the lines are unconnected to see water flow? Also any chance on knowing where the big grey filer you you pulled out would be located? 😕😢🙏 hopefully you can help me...
The injector on Culliagn is usually on the top under a steel plate. It needs to be online to see water flow. Seal pack is inside but I don't know how to access on Culligan.
Hi. I have a problem with my soft water machine. It is draining the water every 3 to 4 days and we are not using a lot of water. Can you tell me what can I do. I really appreciated your help.
How often should I have to refill my brine tank? We are using potassium, on city water and there are five people in our household. I have been having to add three 40 lb bags a month
I've checked all of these issues. I'm thinking my issue may be due to the overflow hosing being connected with the valve drain hose. It drains fine until the last cycle of the regeneration process (backwash?) then all the sudden water comes gushing in to the brine tank from the overflow hole. Any thoughts on this?
My brine tank is filling up with water too. It’s 10” from the top. Sears is scheduled to come out August 3rd. Do I need to take out some water? Will it be okay till then?
I have a Clack valve that is re branded as a Hellenbrand H-1.25. I purchased it from someone who had it installed in a larger application. It does not seem to be creating suction and drawing brine. I have attempted to clean everything and there is no active flow between brine tube and the drain tube so I don't think it's the piston assembly. It has the yellow injector installed could it be the wrong injector that is preventing the system from drawing?
Yes, it is. Page 10 of this manual tells you which injector for which size of tank cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0659/5447/files/Clack_WS1_Manual_Including_Drawings_and_Part_Numbers.pdf?11988583073503085745
@@water_estore The yellow injector matches the 13" tank I have. I took the valve assembly out and am cleaning that today hoping that will help. When the system is in brine draw it is pushing water into the brine tank and down the drain at the same time. Very low flow on both ends but it's flowing out instead of in at the brine tube.
Pete McPeters water must be leaking past the piston. You likely need to replace the seal stack and pistons. They are here waterestore.ca/search?q=clack*+pis*&type=product
my culligan softener will not finish a regeneration cycle. Could u tell what to check and how to repair it has never worked very well and it is only a little over a year old had culligan people out of dallas tx several times and still dosnt work well most of the time
Yes, whenever the water softener is not regenerating and water is running through the water softener it is in service. If you are doing maintenence you should always start a regeneration to relieve the pressure and then put the water softener into bypass that way you won't get sprayed.
i have 5 buttons across. your videos seem only to have 3 buttons on top and two on the bottom? whats the difference? is that simply a design change? What model years were the 5 button across manufactured?@@water_estore
Gary my injector does get clogged. My question is what are the steps to checking the injector when the system is hooked up..in your video you are using a softener that is not actually running. Do I just put in bypass? I put in bi pass but the cap is hard to remove to get to the injector.
Good question, you can but as long as it isn't currently in a regeneration cycle you don't need to until you get to checking the injector, then before opening it up, yes, you should bypass and start a regeneration before opening it up.
Hello, i have the same problem as this user... Please help!.Question: what would cause water to flow INTO the brine holding tank during the brine drain cycle? I removed the hose from the pickup and observed water coming out when it should have been sucking it up
Hi. My aqua science softener is 5 years old. Recently the water feels dry. Difficult to lather n shave. The service tech came. Everything tested fine. He increased the salt mix, but this did not help. My neighbors are Not having this issue. Any thoughts on what this issue is? Should it be replaced? Thank you sir.
I have a rather old system (20+ years old) which the previous owner neglected for several years. He was quite old and couldn't lift the bags to add salt to the brine tank so he just didn't at all. The resin tank looks like a big air tank (like what is used for welding gas) with a mechanical device on top that whirs like a clock when powered up. When I turn the knob on front to regeneration, It cycles and I can feel water rushing through the discharge tube to the drain. The brine tank looks like a big blue trash barrel with a single hose going into it and an overflow port on the side that drains on the cellar floor. The tube from the brine tank leads into a clear, hard plastic, bulb on the side of the mechanical device on top of the resin tank which is full of water with no air space. The base of this bulb is molded into the housing of the mechanical device and cannot be removed. The brine tank fills with water though this tube but does not draw water from the brine tank. There's a small plastic cage on the end of tube inside the brine tank but it appears to be clear of clogs. I've looked all over the mechanism to see if there is a hose missing from which brine would be drawn but there isn't any. My suspicion is that there is a clogged valve somewhere inside the mechanism allowing water to be added to the brine tank but not withdrawn.
After my Hellenbrand FM-1600 with a low water piston regenerates during our sleeping hours, the first time the water is turned on at any sink, the water is quite foamy and very white and tastes very salty. After running for a few minutes it gradually runs clear again. This began a few months ago. I have thoroughly cleaned the brine tank and all components such as float and brine well. What can cause this? Would cleaning the injector help? I have not removed the injector yet and do not have the replacement/rebuild kit and wondered about simply removing and cleaning it. A kit 3 was installed in 2010 according to the label on the back of the meter. No other work since then. The new installation was in 1998 and has only been worked on once (2010). I have not made any changes to the meter settings and they have always served us well. Revision: I removed the injector. There were two pieces, the injector nozzle first and inside was an injector throat, according to the diagram. The injector throat was broken. Could this have caused the foamy water? None of the injector pieces or the filter screen were clogged and they were very clean. How could the broken (at the threads) injector throat cause the water foaming if that is what causes it, but also what could have broken the part? I have turned the the lever to bypass for now and need to purchase the part. I hope that fixes my issue.
@@water_estore The injector did not solve the problem. Instead of investing in a rebuild kit I decided to replace the entire softener and invest in a much newer unit with digital controls. I installed it and it is working great. One change I made was to build a bypass within the piping just ahead of the bypass for the unit so that future alterations do not require shutting off the main house supply valve if the units bypass must be removed (mine required that). Three ball valves were needed, one in, one across, and one out.
Hi, thank you for the educational video but in my case the filter itself is leaking the water like if it was sweating on condensation. Any tips on a repair or do I just have to replace the unit? Thanks in advance.
+The Water Filter Estore it is the tank that's leaking but it just started recently, I never had a problem with condensation. I close de softener valve to bypass it but every time I open them the water starts to come out of the softeners walls.
+The Water Filter Estore I can provide you with a video or photos if you send me your email or cell #. Thank you for your prompt response. I really appreciate the help.
We moved into a house and the Brine Well doesn’t have any bottom to it. It’s just open. I don’t know how that is supposed to work. Maybe I just need to buy a replacement brine well. Our brine tank is just a regular tall black round tank.
Run it through a regeneration to see if the level returns to normal. If not something is causing it to be at that level, this video will help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZdA0aI1q22w.html After the problem is solved and the unit has regenerated the level will return to normal.
@@water_estore , I have the ws1 system with a black rectangular brine tank but no brine well or float. We are on well water and everything is outside. My water guy said a float and brine well wasn't needed in our situation. Do you agree and if not, would I be able to purchase the well and float and install it myself?
Hi Gary. I am experience the complete opposite of this problem. My system is drawing water but not returning it. When I go to inspect salt levels I find all the water has gone. I add water and by the next day it has all gone. How do I address this problem?
Hi. Great video. I have a Culligan which I inherited when I rented the house. The brine tank was completely empty but very clean so I filled and it worked fine for 4 months. Refilled with salt and the next regen I found thick moist saltwater around the brine tank as a small puddle but the brine tank looks just the same as before and no water visible. The salt tended to drop more closest to the tube part where the float lives. Water still soft. Any ideas why it might leak like this? I don’t see any salt tracks down the side of the tank either. After the pint or so of water dried I had around a cupful of salt. Thanks for any help you can offer!
Thanks! Will try a manual regen tonight. Is there supposed to be water at the bottom of the float tube? That is dry. I tried adding some water to the tank last night to see if there is a crack in the tank causing leaking - nothing. Will update if I find anything to help others as I haven’t found any videos etc for this problem Thanks again!
Hi again! Came home to another puddle in the floor. The control unit said Refen but not flashing. I don’t recall it saying that before. No water running. The brine tank usually has 3/4 gallons permanently in the bottom and I filled it to about 2/3 full both times. I did a manual regen. The Regen on control panel started flashing and water/pump noises started. First stage - a few mins only - all good Second stage the water started to appear around the bottom of the brine tank after a few minutes of operation and flow rate increased after that. No water or moisture down the sides - it just appeared from the base. My conclusion is that the extra weight of the salt pellets caused a small crack in the base of the tank. What do you think? I do find it strange though that I added a gallon or so of fresh water last night - no leak overnight so 12+ hours without a drop on the floor. Then come home at 7.45 pmto more salty water on the garage floor why would the water not leak immediately if there is a crack? And the leak is worse when the cycle is running. The cycle is supposed to run at 2 am and the clock is correct. Any pointers as to whether the cracked base is correct or any ideas of anything else? Wondering if I should try and empty the tank this weekend and see if I can spot a crack? Thanks again for your help!
I now empty the entire brink tank. Can I reuse the salt I took out from the tank ? About 3/4 of the tank and some of them are no longer large gravel size but like sand size. Thanks
I have a quick question....not only is the brine tank completely flooded, but my water softener won't turn on now. Would the high water in that tank have any thing to do with the loss of power? I've unplugged it and tried to plug it back in and nothing is happening. I don't think, or at least see an on/off switch... thank you in advance!
hi sir good day, i have a problem to my manual head water softener, under the brine slow it doesn't absorb water instead it refills water in the brine tank. what should i do ? thanks for accommodating my concern .
@@water_estore sir i already change a new item of head valve but still didn't function well. the same problem repeats even though i already change the head valve 4 times .
Recently have a softner issue. Guy came out and cleaned softner tank and iron tank. But softner seems to still not be working. When water is running I herd the iron tank filling with water but not the softner tank. Should I be able to hear the softner tank filling? And the salt I. The brine tank is not moving down so make me think m the water is not getting b salt, plus my husband and I are extremely itchy after taking a shower. Oh and water is slightly green, when you fill up tub only slightly looks green but if you let it set for awhile it is more noticeably green. Already had water guy come out twice, still seems to be not working? Help!!
Water softeners are silent when water passes through. They only use salt when they regenerate, this video might help you ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-udmE-hhh084.html Did they test your water to establish if the water softener and iron filter are working?
My daughter put 2 40lb. Bags of salt in the brine tank and the salt has not gone down in 2 to 3 months. What should do? Also, the surface of the salt is hardening.
Hi. My abc water softener is doing something I have BD showing on the lcd and a count down. It’s the first time I noticed this freaking out please help what it’s doing or what I need to do. Thanks.
My water seems to be constantly running and my water bill has more than doubled. What would cause the water to be running nonstop? I had to shut off the water supply.
Any idea why this thing would keep running? I just worked my butt off on this thing all night. I ran out of running water, went back down in the basement and it was running again.
Not sure what you mean by keeps running. Do you mean water keeps running to the drain? If so, it usually means you need a new seal pack and pistons. This video should help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WIa033n4OQE.html
yeah, but what to do if you've already ended up with water in the tank, *before troubleshooting* the underlying issue. i.e. how to address the symptom of the high water, after it has already happened?
Sorry not sure what you are asking. Do you mean what do you do to get rid of the excess water? If so, once the casue has been fixed, the water level will corrrect itself after a couple of regenerations. Check out this updated video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZdA0aI1q22w.html
@@water_estore perfect, thanks, that's the advice I was looking for. I regenerated it only once and the water level dropped, but not where it *used to be*. Now I understand it needs a couple more regenerations, thanks! Should I force a regeneration, or should I leave the water in there until the next "natural" regeneration occurs? Thanks!