@@ThatFixItGuy Yes I did brother. I am so glad it’s all working out for you because you truly are helping so many people do small jobs themselves and save money. You definitely deserve to be at the top
Twice a year, when we change our clocks to and from daylight savings time, I go around the house and open and close all the toilet and vanity ball valves several times. So far I have not found one that was malfunctioning, but if I do I can change it at my leisure instead of when the water is leaking all over the place.
I cringed watching you take a knife to that copper pipe. I think I would have put the old pipe cover back on backwards to protect the drywall and then used a micro torch to burn off the old paint and crud from the copper pipe. All you’re left with is easily removable char residue. But you’ve shown me two cool tools to add to my plumbing box.
You know, I've replaced a lot of those valves myself and I didn't actually need to watch you show how to do this. But I was eating my chicken quesadillas and pizza pops, and thought, "Hey why not?" Thanks for the visuals. I also watched the whole video. Good job.
I would not tighten the top this way because then tightening the bottom afterwards puts extra twists and stress on the hose. Bottom first and then top. It looks nice if the flexible hose goes vertical from the valve but depending on the length of the hose and distance it may be better to angle the small end at the valve towards the large end at the tank to avoid some of the bends. Nice tip about the white rubber. The only compression ring removal tool available at my store was horrendous to use. It also doubled as a removal tool for the handles on the sink faucet but it is just not worth it. This tool is perfect. The shut off valves I purchased have a spot for two wrenches so no need to use the top connector to hold while tightening and the extra distance allows the compression ring to go further down the pipe so not so much copper is exposed.
I have to say this. 1 i hate plumbing. 2 I hate paying plumbers more. So that out of the way... I am of the opinion these valves are designed to fail. I have never went under any sink or toilet where i didn't have to replace one of these bastards... NEVER. ya here comes the hard water people... its water, plumbing should be able to handle water. cant always control what the water is... plumbing engineers should handle it.
Losen the nut just behind the handle. The handle will turn more freely. I suggest rebuilding the valve with RTV or any small rubber washer. Upon completion, re-tighten nut behind handle. I've rebuilt a valve in 1974-75 and recently needed rebuilding again. 50 years of service, by using a rubber gasket/washer made from a bike inner tube.
If the are all brass shut off valves then I would happily try this. I love something that you can get 50 years of service out of. Thank you for your comments.
I have the same compression ring puller, although I have yet to use it yet. Does it leave a ring type groove, or score the pipe when removing? Does a new ferrule always seal without too much tightening?
This puller is awesome. A ring type groove depends on the person that installed the last angle stop. It really seems to vary at times with the tightness. Once I feel it getting tight the I go another full turn of the nut or a little more and that is usually good for me. I think it will vary for everyone depending on your position and strength.
Great video. This year I've replaced two of these. I was able to get away with not replacing the compression rings, but I just ordered the tool you linked to. On toilet #1, the rubber washer inside the old valve came apart and parts of it ended up in the toilet tank flush valve, which would then not shut off. On toilet #2 the same valve rubber washer failed and parts got hung up in a valve I added for one of those cheap bidets. Toilet fill time became extremely long. I have 8 more of the old valves in my house installed at the same time, so I assume the rubber washers will fail in those soon. I'll be better prepared the next time.
Not really a fan of sharkbite for this. Compression is easy to do and rarely has an issue. Also the ferrule on the compression fitting indents the copper and may not allow the sharkbite to have a good seal.
I always see plumbers using compression fit valves on the supply lines - any reason you pros don't solder on a copper screw-on coupling (usually a male) then use a threaded valve with pipe dope or teflon tape? I've changed all the shut-off valves in my house to the threaded ones and it makes it easier to change them out when the local hard water scale causes them to stick open (no matter how often you 'exercise' them).
I would not do it. Gently saw the brass ring till almost through then pry apart with a screwdriver. Or keep the same nut and ferrule just change the valve. You may have to cut a little pipe off the tip if it’s too long, but that works too. My favorite if there is enough pipe it cut off behind the ferrule and glue on a male adapter then you just have to add a female threaded angle stop. This video will give you the part for reinstalling after you cut. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HrUMVMhZdh4.html
The old shut off valve in my bathroom was soldered. It took me sometime to take the valve off. And I damages my drywall which is now i need to replace that. I like soldering because it is superior but it is tricky and you working with high heat and i don’t wanna damage the drywall and since I am not a plumber i like to use compression ring shut off valve.
@@ThatFixItGuy I was a repair plumber so I had to make old thing work, especially antiques. Back to this handle: you could remove handle and reposition it to get half a turn. Repeat. Sometimes replace is not something you want to chance and just get out of there asap!
This is great if you have a compression fit type toilet supply/shut off valve, which fits onto a straight pipe. Mine was an FIP valve, which fits onto a threaded pipe. Far simpler to get off and on fortunately.
SO HAPPY YOU POSTED THIS VIDEO!!!!! You saved me with the Ridgid One Stop wrench - I'd been wrestling with a stuck Angle stop for 30 minutes when I decided to see what RU-vid had for me. Quick trip to Home Depot and it was off in 2 minutes!! Liked and Subscribed and will be back to your channel!
Thank you for this informative video. I know you know your stuff, but no thread tape on the compression fitting threads? Also once the ferrell is squeezed on with the compression fitting, isn't the 1/2" copper pipe distorted slightly so that pulling it off with that tool going to change the dimension of that copper pipe?
I like how that wrench works. Excellent. I've changed at least a couple dozen of those valves on toilets, even more under sinks. I will not install a gate valve anywhere anymore. I appreciate the information on the 12" supply line. Nice. You are a handyman after my own heart. Thank you.
This was a great video. I have replace too many toilets in my life and that compression ferrule tool would have been so handy. Need to search the interweb for something like it. 😁✌
You couldn't do what you did to remove it with cpvc pipe though. Especially old cpvc, its brital and would have cracked the pipe or broke the elbow inside the wall clean off. Best solution is to replace the gasket in the shutoff valve with cpvc piping then to try to remove the entire valve itself.
The few times I came across a compression stop on cpvc, I did whatever was necessary to remove it and replace it with a threaded adaptor and stop. Afterwards I tell the owner that cpvc is a flooded house just waiting to happen.
I have a question, I think the video answers it but just incase pls let me know. So my question is I had my upstairs bathroom renovated which included a new toilet and plumbing was replaced which includes the old water line to the toilet but it’s loose in the wall. I found out because I was vacuuming, barely nudged the plate and it moved so I investigated and I can carefully and easily pull out this plate off the wall and see the waterline from the inside. Is that normal or should it be somehow affixed in a more secure way? Another toilet downstairs is much more secure (I’m wondering because this video shows a copper waterline that mine downstairs is too hence why it’d seem more secure) so I don’t get it and want advice because maybe that’s normal but I’ve never experienced a loose toilet water line as in I can easily see the pex tubing inside the wall and if I needed to shut off the valve I’d have to be careful when doing so not to mess something up
Never been keen on attaching a flexi to a compression fitting, they are similar but the flexi relies on a rubber washer to make the seal and needs a flat surface where a compression fitting is sharp and cuts into the aforementioned washer 'usually' not a problem but not ideal.
I can look for one for ya. You just need to unsweat the old valve and solder on a male adapter. The you can screw on a valve. If you have enough pipe behind you can just cut the valve off and put a compression one on.
He did not repair the stop valve, instead he went out and bought a new replacement. He said larger hose instead of Longer hose. He still left the stop valve against the toilet causing the same trouble in the future.
I make all kinds of mistakes all the time and own that. But this will not be an issue now because there is a 1/4 valve on there. The problem was that it would not shut off. Now it shuts off easy.
Great video, with a bit of humour thrown in too 👍😊 Could you do a video on how to undo a stuck water valve on the main water supply - the old type not the quarter turn ball valve. Thanks.
very good vid, thank you for your time for making this video, and share your skill with us, 🙏 the best instructions step by step, save my money $150 for plumber, Gbu🙏
Pro tip - you shouldn't turn it on all the way. Turn them on slightly so they'll fill over a minute to two minutes or so. Then if someone flushes a toilet when someone is taking a shower it won't take all the cold water away. Minute is plenty fast for most applications. No need for an expensive manifold or other crazy ideas. Simple, effective, cheap, slow fill.
At 1:20, where did the water drain to? Usually flushing the tank leaves a sponge full there, then the old line holds more that needs to be caught with a small bucket or bowl as its lower nut is loosened.
If you're not going to use a bathroom for a long time, are we supposed to put something down the drain to protect the pipes from rusting ? If a bathroom hasn't been used for over a year or two, is there something we're supposed to do before using it again ?
No money. Even when I had my business if I found something like this I charged an extra 35.00 dollars. They go pretty fast. Pretty rare that it ever went beyond that.
@@ThatFixItGuy thank you very much for responding the water shut off valve doesn’t turn off at all even when closing the valve water still runs through to toilet I was wondering can that cause a leak in the wall ? Since valve is defective ?
I've been a residential/commercial plumber for over 30 years and I honestly think you made me stupider by watching this video as almost everything you did was wrong including naming things. It's called an excursion not a cover and there was no need to put on a split version, also you twisted the supply line when installing it, you always install the supply line on the angle stop first
That procedure will work only ONLY in houses/apartments with individual shut off valve, In my case, no, I do have an apartment, and we have to go to the basement, with permition from association and business bond to shut whole building out, That (my) angle valve is so close to the wall, so, freezing is not an option... 300 bucks > service plumber. and 10$ valve at homedepot/menards/lowes/ace
