Check out my other videos on my channel page: ru-vid.com Welding equipment borrowed from Spetselektroodi AS, Estonia: Fronius TransSteel 2700 welder Optrel Crystal 2.0 Welding Helmet Hypertherm Powermax 45 XP plasma cutter
@@TomsBackyardWorkshop Those standoffs will be fine. It's only a plasma so there aren't particularly heavy loads on the motors. I've run much bigger motors on standoffs without problems.
You started out with a freezing dilapidated stable and look where you are now: a fully equipped machine shop where you can work in all seasons. Well done, Donn! And thank you for sharing your talents with the world.
This was my dream to get out of the cold barn. But it's the first step. I'd like to expand though. Weird to think you've been around so long on this channel to know this. Most people unfortunately usually think tools and workshop just happened to fall on my lap. Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
Donn DIY No doubt you will succeed. A man of your talents and entrepreneurial skills will achieve anything he can dream of. And I for one will be watching how you do that!
I am salivating at the thought of what you make with this machine. It will open up another universe of capabilities. With your skill, knowledge, and imagination, I'm sure our minds will be officially blown!
Anyone who has some doubts or questions about that CNC not running well or making weird noises, no worries. Everything will be sorted out. As this is early stage still. I am just using Blackbox controller at the moment to test out the movements and how my basement made parts fit together. There is some mechanical issues that I need to iron out. And this design is overkill for plasma actually(double linears on all axis), because it mostly 'cuts' air, there is no spindle or endmills involved, thus no load at the axes besides the gantry. But with this overkill Donn has an option to slam a spindle there and BANG, watch out you nasty plywood:)
G day it's the digital/electrical side that interests me with this build I'd like to see a video just on that alone software and hardware required to function with a plasma cutter
I am currently working on my side of videos. Unfortunately full time job and family leave just a tiny bit of time to make, film and edit. But hopefully can get a video out in couple of days.
@@kurtwerner4258 True, though he may need a deeper pan so as to not damage the current one if he does that. There's a significant loss of PSI over distance of course, but I'm not sure on the depth needed exactly.
One thing to note, if you make your slats thinner and with points going to the top you will cut down on slag and buildup on them. That stuff can be a beast to remove. That said I use a Trumpf laser setup with two cutting setups in a high volume environment. We usually clean a table a day at least to remove buildup and depending on what we are cutting it sometimes isn't enough. Being your setup though I see no major problems just be aware of slag and general crap buildup on the slats. If the workpiece doesn't lay level getting a good cut will be a pain in the ass to say the least. Good video and build. Looking forward to the next one!
Once the plasma table is working properly I can modify or cut out the slats I like. I've seen those pointy ones, you're right they look the best and probably work the best.
Good evening Donn, you’re doing a great job on the CNC Plasma Cutting Table. Always enjoy the way you fabricate things. Thanks for sharing with your videos with us. Fred.
Welding Buddy I have back in the States tought me a trick when welding sheet metal and you don't want it to warp. Use 6013 welding rod and a vertical down passes and it will round over the edge and give a perfect weld every time, with little to no shrinkage. Works great when building boxes.
You will definitely appreciate the lack of fumes with the water table. I used to program for a 12' x 40' table, without water, and it would fill the shop with oxide smoke. You couldn't even suck the fumes out. Once they installed the water table, 95% less fumes, and the slats lasted 4-5 times longer. Great job. Watch your torch in and torch out lengths and you'll have a blast. The things I could do with the table were awesome.
I'm glad to hear that - I was hoping for reduced fumes with water table usage. I've used the plasma cutter free hand in the shop and yeah, the gas and dust it produces is tremendous.
@@DonnDIY it makes a huge difference in lower quality steel and even galvanized, which I won't cut without water. Awesome work you're doing, keep it up.
Nice looking water pan 👍 I can’t wait to see the stuff you will cut with this! Owning a CNC plasma table is a complete game changer, you will use your drill press less along with a lot of other tools, they really are awesome 🙂
Excellent job and video. Thank you! A question please, am I missing something here? Why would anyone ever give this person a thumbs down? I don’t get it.
When you replace your slats, you might consider what we did. Our slats are about 3"x 1/8". We took three pieces of 1 1/2" x1/8" angle iron and laid two in the bottom of the pan near the edges and cut slots in the vertical part of the angle where the slats would go. The third piece was laid in the center and slots were cut in it to hold the curve in the slats. The angles only put force on the end of the pan and the slats do not put force on the edge of the pan. Slats can be replaced or flipped over without any cutting or welding and the angle iron keeps the slats off of the bottom of the pan so that water can flow to level.
Wow, you weld so well, it looks like when I draw with a marker (on something I don’t care about or have practice with) the movement is so carefree and fluid yet the welds come out professional
Love the build but in my experience and knowledge (im a professional metal worker i build tanks for breweries) i can tell you that cooling down welds fast usually just puts more stress faster into the material and making it bend more but you had 2 big backside supports do it didnt warp
Iv found cooling the weld stops the heat spreading and hear soaking the whole work peice Prob just a work around not doing it properly How do you keep warping down on the big tanks?
@@fowletm1992 Just weld a small bit like 10 cm and then slowly let it cool down or weld on the other side, also on some pieces you have aspecial really complicated sequence to make it warp it against it self aka cancelling the warp pretty much out
Another great series. Bloody enjoying this lot. Would love to do this my self but time money and swmbo says no, i live vicariously through you. Thanks mate from Brisbane Australia
Cheers man. I'm planning many more projects using parts that come from this plasma table. I'm eagerly waiting it's completion so I can already start on other projects. Thanks for watching! 😉
Dang I went to watch the next part and then I saw that you just posted this today.. I’m excited to see how it turns out! Looks like a fun and challenging project. Also I really like your cold cut saw!
You could replace the short nipple you used for the nozzle with a nipple having threads on both ends. Then install an Iron Pipe Thread to Garden Hose thread adapter. You'd be able to quickly connect a necessary length of garden hose to the drain and run that outside or to a drain. A small screen on the drain bung would prevent dross from draining out into the hose.
I love everything pf your videos, the quality, the explanations, the techniques, the tools that you use, the proyects, all! I hope you never get tired of doing this kind of videos and projects :P good work, congratulations!
You could have completely avoided welding the slat holders to the bottom. You could have cut them half height and then place two perpendicular "ribs" on top using matching half-height cuts. Perpendicular slats would hold to each other. After a year all of them would be severely bruised, so you could simply replace them without touching the pan and draining the water.
The stepper motor can be placed above the axis via a set of pulleys and HDT 3 belt system(bigger teeth), and it just needs to be reversed. That way, you won't have to fear bumping into it by mistake. That's how my CNC router was initially setup, and one day i came in to see that a length of pipe had fallen smack on to my stepper, mangling the axis support as well. Just my 2 cents.
Suggestion: put a garden hose adapter on the drain valve; then you can easily drain the tank without making a big mess in the shop. Also, are you going to paint the tank so it doesn’t rust?
Painted the water pan from the outside already yesterday. Not gonna paint the inside since it has to conduct electricity. Some rust preventing agent in the water will be in order.
The way I see it, you already have a machine to draw sheet metal patterns and if you change the marker for a high speed tool, you would have a wood engraver
It’s looking Pret-ty Good. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 This will be such a game changer for all of your future projects. The sound seemed “off” when the X and Y axis were both running at about equal strength at the mid point between each compass point. Was that just the sound of the 2 stepper motors running at maximum together?
The z axis should be floating with a limit switch to measure the position of the sheet and of course THC. It will significantly improve the quality of the cut and there will be no collision of the torch with the sheet.
Those are some nice linear rails... I would suggest seeing about some sort of covers for them to keep any grit or dirt that happens to be floating around the shop from getting on them. You’ll probably also want to cook up a spatter shield for the plasma torch (I’m thinking some sort of sheet metal ring that wraps around it and just kinda floats?) 🤔
Yup. Although I'm planning an addition to my workshop - a separate room for the plasma table so it is away from the cutting and grinding dust. But yeah, there's still the plasma dust.
Instead of welding each individual slat support I would have sliced halfway through when they were longer pieces and slipped them together. At that point I would have tacked then together
instead of welding in your dividers you could of cut slots into 2-3 pieces of angle with the vertices pointing up and dropped your slats across those so they can be removed and replaced anytime.
I have to voice a concern about you welds! They are all so thin and straight, with no big lumps or excess spatter and no holes burned thru on the thin stuff! how in the world are those welds going to hold up in the long run?.... ehh on second thought I might be a tad bit jealous too!
