With Waterlox, I recommend just getting foam brushes in bulk (you can get 48 of them for $11 from Home Depot) in whatever width you want (1'', 2'', 3'') and then toss them after you use them. You don't have to worry about lint, and no matter which one you're using, it goes on smoothly. I made a several pieces and finished them using Waterlox, and like you, it was a learning curve. I tried to apply using rags at first and it came out uneven and had some spots that didn't look quite right, so I just started using brushes and it worked out great. Also, you can sand using 400 grit (you used 600 and that's cool too) without the wet sanding, and just rub off with denatured alcohol. It will look cloudy after that, but that's okay, after the 2nd and third coat it will look smooth. For storage, I use mason jars. I put saran wrap over the top and then put on the mason jar top as well. This keeps it from oxidizing. I use a turkey baster to get out what I want to use for each coat and put it into a separate container and shut the lid as soon as I can. As the depth goes down, I put in marbles to raise the liquid and keep out oxygen. I don't even bother with the original can. If you do use the original can, shut it IMMEDIATELY after you pour out the product you want to use into another container. When you're done, if you have excess, throw it out and DON'T put it back into the can. Because that excess has become oxidized, and it will spoil the rest of the can. It's a bit of a high maintenance finish, but the results look amazing and I consider it worth it.
I just want to say thanks for posting this. Honest and straight forward, admitting mistakes most people probably do but also how you would correct it the next time. I am just a regular Joe with a medical degree that tries to do as much as I can at home for my own satisfaction. I want it to be perfect but you made me feel better that it is very difficult to do. Looks like a satisfying project. I will now press forward and make our butcher block kitchen with Waterlox. THANK YOU!
This was super helpful. I’m doing exactly this with waterlox and dye on maple.. and it’s my third time staining ever. So I need all the tips I can get! Thanks!
Thank you for sharing your honest opinion and experience. This will save me a lot of trouble to learn from the mistakes you experienced. My biggest takeaway is to use the satin finish because I can see how difficult the glossy finish is to make it perfect. Thanks again for sharing 👍
it came out BEAUTIFUL... what endurance & determination you have! .. my egregious philosophy when I do a project for myself "IT's GOOD ENOUGH FOR WHO IT's FOR!!!" I am attempting to seal/finish a newly installed butcher block counter on an island/peninsula. I am NOTORIOUS for horizontal FILING. so once again no one will see it MOST of the time. Resale value will be the HEIR's PROBLEM thank you for all your time to produce this information!
Some things I’ve found helpful: Use a foam brush to apply and use a new one for each coat. They are cheap (about $1.50 each) and don’t trap lint & debris like brushes can. You can use Waterlox that has been opened indefinitely if you displace the oxygen in the can. If you have a welding tank, you can blow in some argon/co2 to displace the oxygen. I’ve also heard regular canned dusters work just as well. Lastly, I buy the 50 packs of microfiber cloths from Costco and wash them on their own twice before using. I’ll lightly dampen the cloth with mineral spirits (paint thinner) to wipe down the surface. It’s best to let the surface dry after wiping before applying Waterlox. However, Waterlox contains mineral spirits so it is pretty forgiving. Thanks for sharing what did and didn’t work for you.
Thanks for the tip on foam brushes. I have also heard that some use the natural bristle brush for the first application then foam. Did you use foam brushes all the way through? What was your project? Did you sand between each coat as well? Thanks for your time.
Thanks for making this video dude. I'll be finishing new butcher block counter tops soon. I'm looking for the exact end-result that you have there with your desk. Well, done.
Waterlox needs to have their own applicators. I had nothing but issues with this product and lint. I tried 3 different brands of lambs wool pads. I lint rolled them, I shook them, I dried them. Still had plenty of crap on the surface. In the end I was very happy with the outcome of everything. If you run through with a light and tweezers to take all the hairs off while wet.
I am pretty certain that they do have applicators. For a surface this large I would have used a lambs wool pad applicator. Would have gone on smoother with way less hassle. Waterlox is terrific product I have done a number of pieces with it over the last 20 years. What I find especially is every can I have ever used has behaved exactly the same. One thing to watch out for. The have both a VOC complaint version of the product and non VOC compliant version. You cannot mix the two!! If you are using VOC compliant you must stay with it.
I think I will lean to a rub on general finish after listening to this. I will finish off with the sealer/finish and that will be it for waterlox for me
High gloss is more commercial looking, I finished mine in a satin finish, which is a low lustre. You want your countertop to look more natural and the satin finish achieves that, with that being said, its really what finish you prefer!
Can you explain or make a video showing what you did to combine the 2 pieces of wood to make an L shape? Did you use wood glue or pocket hole jog and screws? I am also making an L-shaped desk using butcher block and I am confused on how I should adjoin the two pieces of wood.
I didn't actually join them. Would have made it impossible to move out of my house if I did that. I simply used steel bars designed for securing two pieces of wood together from Menard's. They were in the woodworking section. The frame I used is L-shaped as well.
