Just wanted to say thanks for this. My kids just got the same one from marketplace a month ago and 1st and reverse were not working. Came across this video. Replaced the motor. The long way lol. Took awhile but it's working again.
I'm using the BNR (badnewsracing.net) wastegate actuator. It's the best one on the market by a long shot. It's a genuine Forge wastegate actuator made to BNR's specs.
I just ordered the cruzekit v3.4 + GM 1.4L turbo pcv fix/ upgrade kit and as im following directions to the video i noticed that my purge valve is not a quick release. Can you please direct me to a video or detailed instructions as to how I go about this issue. Thank you
Great information. Thank you so much. I’ve watched many of your videos. I have a few questions. 1. If the manifold pcv valve is missing, and I pressure test the system like this, what symptoms will I see to indicate the intake manifold check valve is problematic? 2. My car had two significant leaks- one at the throttle body and the other at the bypass valve. The car now gets to 20psi when before it didn’t. I am sadly still throwing p0299 code. I have repeated the boost leak test numerous times, the only thing I hear is a hiss from inside the valve cover, when I pull the dipstic, pressure is released and I can hear the hiss louder from the dipstick hole. Is it safe to assume at this point the turbo charger isn’t pressurizing the system as it should? What else should I check?
I saw your comment to someone else about the bypass solenoid valve. I will pick one up tomorrow hoping for the best. I really can’t thank you enough for all the videos and information.
@@roywalker270 pressure testing won’t reveal a manifold check valve failure unless you remove the pcv pipe prior to the test and spray soapy water down there. If you haven’t installed the cruzekits pcv fix kit yet, I’d start there. Your symptoms are pretty common for that type of issue.
@@AndreiDPop thank you for the reply, I’m looking at the different variations of the kit now. If I remove the corrugated pcv hose from the intake manifold, and apply pressure to the system, should there be any air coming out of that hole on the manifold?
@@roywalker270 there can be hole coming out of the manifold yes. But it shouldn’t be coming through the check valve at the bottom toward the firewall. You’ll need to spray that with soapy water to check for leaks.
@@AndreiDPop hey! I recently purchased kit v3.4. It had come in the mail today and installed it after removing the whole intake manifold. I have high hopes! The manifold is not stock “mitzone” brand. You cannot see the orange nipple from the pcv hole. I decided to remove the whole manifold to look and be sure. I was hoping to see it missing; however it is still there. This manifold looks like it was recently installed. I removed the nipple and installed anyway, hoping it is a faulty aftermarket. While putting the car back together, I thought about the other side of that orange nipple? Could it fall down inside the intake and be sucked into the cylinders? Have you seen this check valve be present and not be functional? Thank you for the kit!
@@quietpianist doesn’t say anywhere that it won’t. It will work just fine, but this is the old video. Theres a newer and better kit. You can find it on cruzekits.com.
@@AndreiDPopthank you. I pulled up the website link to the kit from the description. When I look at compatibility it only listed 2015 Buick Encore and newer.
@@timothyeads7083 yes. That’s how the system is supposed to work. This is an old video though. I recommend using the newest v3.4 pcv fix kit install video.
Had a question not sure if you heard of this before or not. I have a 2011 Chevy Cruze and if I drive it let's say 20 minutes Non-Stop. And then come to idol somewhere Chick-fil-A drive-thru. My car will drop idle I have no throttle and the engine starts shaking back and forth the idol kind of bounces up and down. Could last 2 minutes could last 5 minutes and then all of a sudden it pops back up to idol like everything is fine. I've changed mass flow, map sensor, PCV valve hose, battery
Had a question not sure if you heard of this before or not. I have a 2011 Chevy Cruze and if I drive it let's say 20 minutes Non-Stop. And then come to idol somewhere Chick-fil-A drive-thru. My car will drop idle I have no throttle and the engine starts shaking back and forth the idol kind of bounces up and down. Could last 2 minutes could last 5 minutes and then all of a sudden it pops back up to idol like everything is fine. I've changed mass flow, map sensor, PCV valve hose, battery
I just put this kit onto my 2012 Cruze Eco... Everything went 'okay', but - on that other check-valve (the smaller system you pull apart and install the small Y-pipe into... The connection on the left side of that was just a shrunk-wrap between the 2 nipples. This means I needed to install another small piece of the smallest hose (with 2 more little clamps) to join them together. The other thing this does is put you in the position where you are holding onto the naked little check-valve from the middle of this, and it would be very easy to put it together the wrong way around. I am fairly certain that the airflow through this is supposed to be from right to left - but if you simply cut the ends off (which I had no choice but to do) there is no way through this video or any other resource to tell which way it originally went. No chance yet to test things out. I am doing my valve cover, coil (with boots), and spark-plugs at the same time.
I’m not familiar with these motors and there issue but narrowed rough idle down to pcv issue, my car has this fix on it, is it supposed to be sucking air through the diagram port on top of valve cover at idle?
@@seannorris8893 not supposed to be happening. The valve cover can still fail, but it will typically last longer with this kit on. You’ll need to replace the valve cover. I strongly recommend only OEM valve covers. I have them available on the cruzekits site as well if you need one quickly or can’t find one locally. Price is about the same after shipping as you’d pay at a dealer.
@@AndreiDPop yep right after I messaged this I learned what it should and shouldn’t do lol, I work on every make and model basically, I doubt this will be the last I come across glad it wasn’t a hard diag
@@seannorris8893 yeah these engines have a lot of garbage bolted to them but fortunately most issues are cheap to fix. I’m glad it’s a simple solution. They run really nicely when they run well.
@@AndreiDPop most definitely, this owner had ls7 coils and upgraded injectors, and a tune, also intake and turbo bolt ons, he removed everything trying to figure it out😂 he’s also the one that installed this pcv kit
I can see on the cruze and buick u got more space to set up the plug and see how is going but on sonic the area is a little bit tight But ill try . Thanks for the video already ordered the kit
So im curious Andrei as you stated early in the video...the factory pcv system will cause the oil pan to leak as well? Ive only ever heard of the valve cover and possibly the crank seal due to the faulty pcv. Also, i have a dorman manifold on my car that has about 6k miles on it. Im thinking of ordering the kit because my oil pan is always covered in oil but the cooler seals and turbo lines and valve cover are all oem and new. And if the kit fixes the oil pan leaks too I'll get it ordered, but what needs to be done differently on the dorman manifold? I have the old manifold off my wife's 12 Eco, but if i can prevent removing the manifold i will
@@thagerdorn2009 technically when you pressurize the crankcase, anything with a seal or gasket can leak that wasn’t intended to. Dorman manifold has to be removed since the check valve is further back, and a screw and washer plug has to be used, which I can include free of charge if you can leave a note in the cart before checkout.
@@AndreiDPop how does the screw and washer plug work? Does it make sense to install the fix kit on my newer dorman manifold or just take my wife's old one and do it on that? And it would have been nice for someone on the forum to tell me that all the crankcase pressure could cause my pan to leak too. Nobody was helpful and everyone said my oil cooler was leaking when it wasn't. So thank you for sharing that info and I bet you that's the issue. While the valve cover is OEM and has 16k miles on it, and the manifold around the same and is a Dorman, it could still be pushing oil out
@@thagerdorn2009 honestly I’d just do it on the old manifold then. I don’t know what the cause of your issue is for sure but you could check this article also: cruzekits.com/blogs/technical-articles/root-causes-of-high-crankcase-pressure
@@AndreiDPop the main issue that drives me nuts is it leaks from somewhere onto the manifold on the far left side of the exhaust manifold looking at the car from the front and then the smell gets inside the car. I never have to add oil between my 3k mile oil changes but the smell is what bothers me and the fact it's only in a little spot on the exhaust manifold. And of course my oil pan is covered. And from what I've noticed it's only under load while driving. I don't beat on the car though.
Worst engine Chevy every made I have so many codes non stop oil leaks it’s sitting not running right now don’t know if this is the fix , or needs a new turbo or sensors this car was good for a year then none stop issues
Why should I break the orange nipple if its still intact? Wouldn't it be better than the nipple that comes with the kit? And don't tell me to refer to the faq because it isn't answered there. Thanks.
@@ahmedlo1 If it’s intact, you would be breaking it to install the kit as preventive maintenance. If you don’t install the plug, the nipple will eventually fail on its own and then you’ll have to plug it up anyway. Can’t put a plug there if a nipple exists.
@@ahmedlo1 regarding differences between the kits, have you read this page? cruzekits.com/pages/compare-pcv-fix-kit-versions The v1 and v2.1 require removal and drilling of the intake manifold. 95% of people order the v3.4 kit.
Only the reverse works on mine. Regardless what gear i put it in. Why is that? Also i totally disconnected the shifter, and when i got the gas it still only runs in reverse.
He’s 100% right though, you are defeating a safety feature. I have identical surgical scars on my left forearm from defeating a tractor safety mechanism and in the process, got my arm broken in four places…. And was extremely lucky that was the extent of my injuries.
@@CP-ux9zd yes, I used this as a temporary measure to get my mower off the lawn so extreme caution should be used and the mower should be repaired ASAP.
Howdy! I ordered this kit last year and have yet to install it. Would it be smart to install the kit even though I still have the orange nub, and is it easy to pry out?
Hi Dre Dan. I just bought a sonic with 1.4l turbo. The vacuum regulator is leaking oil from there. Do you think it has to do with the pcv valves? Any help, I'll priciate.
@@aldonoviaviles6250 you’ll need a new OEM valve cover. You can get those from the dealer but I also offer them on the cruzekits.com site. Have you checked the intake manifold yet?
@AndreiDPop so I have replaced all ready the valve cover with zzperformence. The old one was bad due to an air leak at the regulator. After a put the new one 2 weeks later, I noticed that it is leaking oil. I call the zzperfomence for the warranty and they are tell me that it couldn't be the the regulator. And I haven't check the intake manifold yet. Can you send a link to the repair kit?
I had the same code on my 2014 LTZ RS. The issue turned out to be caused by broken catalyst from the forward catalytic converter. This catalyst material broke up and clogged the rear catalytic converter restricting exhaust gas flow. Without flow, the turbo cannot spool up and the performance is greatly reduced. I could not clean out the rear converter so i had to preplace both of them. At $2000 for the set, I would have rather had a bad turbo. If you remove the turbo and the exhaust pipe from the forward converter, you should be able to inspect the catalyst. If any is missing, you may have a clogged rear converter. To prove the rear converter was clogged, I test drove the car without the exhaust pipe. A bit noisy but the boost pressure popped right back up and performance returned. I bet there is a better way to test the flow of the rear converter; my way was free.
@@AndreiDPop Yeah... Its a long story so I shortened it to remind folks to check their exhaust systems before they start buying expensive turbos and such. The rear converter did not fail but got clogged up by debris from the forward converter. In short, it all stared with an overheat caused by a cracked coolant tank. Once fixed there was a small leak of coolant that took a while to find. It was a cracked cylinder head. Coolant was leaking into the #2 and #3 cylinders but was not causing a reduction in performance, so I allowed the car to be driven. I think this was a mistake. I replaced the head and all was well for awhile, but soon, the performance started to decline and I started getting a low boost code. I changed the turbo and it did not fix it. While changing the turbo, I noticed a missing piece of catalyst in the converter and concluded it can only be in the exhaust pipe. That is when I drove the car without the exhaust pipe and the boost and performance returned. This is a guess but I believe the coolant in the exhaust damaged the catalyst in the converter and caused it to break. The debris broke up into powder and clogged up the rear converter. Before you replace the turbo, check your exhaust system.
Dan, did one of these. Now they're flooding in. Just had a Buick enclave come in, I'm getting oil dipstick whistling like the Cruze just did. 60k miles. Cars running fine. Valve covers still fine. But check engine light is coming on randomly the code was for catalytic converter. Do you think this PCV is linked to this code?
@@dlmgtar it may be related. P0420 usually comes on when the catalytic converter is on its way out which will happen when the intake manifold check valve failure causes elevated oil consumption.
I installed a kit with one check valve instead of two 8-10 years back on my wife’s Cruze. Been good since, the check valve was brass instead of plastic. Was that an early kit you made? I can’t remember who I bought it from. Been wondering if I need to service the valve etc. I also used a BNR spacer on that kit. It looks like the V1 kit on the website.
I watched your original video on the boost testing kit that said it could be used up to the 2016 limited cruze, would I still be able to use this for the newer 2016 cruze? Are there any big differences to look for on how to find the boost leaks?
This kit has not gone through any application process to receive approval from any governing bodies. It's a kit of parts, and it's up to each owner to determine its suitability for their purposes and use it in a manner consistent with state and federal regulations. If you have additional questions on this topic, please reach out to me directly via the chat function on the cruzekits site.
Mine does not have a harness that the brake module. Just about a dozen of wires that go into the module. Had to take all kinds of stuff off just just to get the brake module out. I hate engineers! They don't give a damn about how they design the product to make it so you can work on them ! All they want to do is sell the product and make money off of you. I won't be buying another Toro ever again.
My bad. The harness is located under the cover of the brake module. You have to take the cover off of the brake module to get to where you can unplug the harness.
Good resource and prompt chat answers on the CruzeKits website. A+ service. Easy installed this kit onto a new Dorman intake manifold. Because the Dorman is an "improved" design, the diaphragm plug seal process on the PCV port is a bit different because the diaphragm sits at an angle and farther back in the intake housing. Was told to use a #10 sheet metal screw and 7/16 nylon washer. After pushing out the center button on the diaphragm I used the recommended 3/4" #10 self tapping pointed sheet metal screw (actually used a pan head screw which has a wider head that will cover the parameter port holes without a nylon washer as there was not sufficient space to fit a 7/16" nylon washer). I just used extra JB weld on the screw threads, under the pan head and on top of the screw, after insertion, to seal the diaphragm port holes. Worked like a charm. Can't wait to test it out as the old system had obviously failed.
You’re literally in your garage making car parts because the manufacturer couldn’t be bothered to make actual functioning ones in the first place 😅 the fact that we’ve come to this point is crazy lol. That being said, I’m so thankful you did all this. I went down this same rabbit hole as everyone else and it started with a crack in the turbo body and a low boost code. I don’t let anyone do work on my cars, so I swapped that out myself and everything seemed fine. After about 6 months, the car started running shitty again and here comes a new code for loss of vacuum. Excellent! Lol. That thankfully lead me to you and checking for that rubber nipple, and sure enough the next thing I’m doing is ordering your kit lol. Can’t thank you enough! At out here doing the lords work 😂 cheers!!!
just did this and luckily I had already ordered a new PCV Hose for this car months earlier. Lucky I did because the valve in the bottom part.( near the turbo) eas completely gone. When you take that hose off if you can blow air from that bottom part then the valve is missing. On the new one when you look in that bottom part of that hose connector, you can clearly see the orange valve. You can actually suck through but you shouldn’t be able to blow through it. I simply took the new PCV hose. I got and cut the ends of it off to use instead of the old one. Not expensive at all on eBay or wherever anyways, I think this is something important people should know. If you did it without replacing the bottom part of that hose then you are probably missing that valve also. Should be easily remedied and replaced.
The bottom part of the valve should indeed be checked, but it fails far less often than the manifold does, and it will trip a p1101 when it does. Glad you got that done proactively though!
just did this and luckily I had already ordered a new PCV Hose for this car months earlier. Lucky I did because the valve in the bottom part.( near the turbo) eas completely gone. When you take that hose off if you can blow air from that bottom part then the valve is missing. On the new one when you look in that bottom part of that hose connector, you can clearly see the orange valve. You can actually suck through but you shouldn’t be able to blow through it. I simply took the new PCV hose. I got and cut the ends of it off to use instead of the old one. Not expensive at all on eBay or wherever anyways, I think this is something important people should know. If you did it without replacing the bottom part of that hose then you are probably missing that valve also. Should be easily remedied and replaced.
Installed the kit the other day drove today 15mins went back into vacuum. The valve cover didn't bust but it's through the dipstick. Any idea where to start, things to check. Was so hoping this kit had it whooped
@@dlmgtar valve cover is defective and front main seal is probably bad. To be sure, remove dipstick at idle and place finger on top of the dipstick hole. That’s how you check if you have strong or mild vacuum.
