Ahh the fun eccentricities of assembling ikea cabinets. I do appreciate how Studpack shows mistakes, changes, or unknowns and what they did to remedy the situation. The Garondo is looking fantastic!
i like that you are honest about forgetting a step/running into an issue (the side panels). Something everyone has done (more than once) but so many YT's just gloss over.
Won’t help for this build, but for those liking to do their own ikea projects 1. Swap the adjustable feet from ikea for Hafele Axilo feet. They come with an adjustment tool that makes leveling after install a snap 2. Swap the included 4mm MDF split backer for your own solid sheet of 4mm mdf. Can get it laminate faced from the store. 3. Those LED instructions to punch through the backer are only for the pax wardrobes as they don’t have the hanging rails. For others you need to go through the top or route the wiring to a corner.
I’m partway through my own IKEA build. Here’s my extra tips to add to these ones: 1. If you’re using the original plastic feet and find the plate isn’t fitting into the predrilled holes between 2 cabinets. You need to remove the whole plate and insert the side with the shorter…tenons(?) first and really push the other side second. Using the leg as a jack works as well. 2. If you’re installing powerpoints to the back of the cabinet, you need to reinforce the back piece. Otherwise when you pull a plug out in the future, you’ll rip the whole back out with it. I wish I tried the MDF solution, but what I did was use leftover skirting timber as a support between the wall and the cabinet back. Some professionals remove the entire back panel, but it leaves a hole at the back of the cabinet for things to fall through so I don’t encourage it. 3. If you’re using a non-integrated IKEA fridge, install your hanging rail a little higher than needed. The fridge is 188cm, overhead cabinet 40cm (total 228cm). The tall cabinet is 220 with a kick board of 8cm (total 228cm). Unless you’re sitting your overhead cabinet on your fridge, there is literally no room to slide the fridge in. This is pretty specific advice, but I hope it helps even 1 person avoid the stress. 😊
@@fatlittleseal #2 I dont think you are supposed to attach the plug to the back of the cabinet. Just cut a hole see 27:33 thats what they did. The plug itself is still attached to the wall.
I love how Paul explains everything for the novice viewer like me. He's enthusiastic and interesting. Thanks Paul. You'll probably never read my comment but I had to say it.
Paul is a proper craftsman. No doubt. And if I know Jordan, he'll see your comment, But if he doesn't respond, it's cool. Imagine getting notifications from 600K + subscribers! I know he appreciates the comments big time. However, to reply is a little overwhelming. But always comment! I know they truly appreciate it and it really helps their channel!! 👍
That's what got me hooked on the channel. I already knew how to do some things, hell I even taught woodworking at a summer camp one year and helped my dad build a storage shed. (Which we screwed up the foundation on, so it eventually settled and the door can't be opened.) But there's so, _sooo_ much stuff I don't know about building and remodeling and Paul explains it all so well. The channel's entertaining _and_ educational thanks to that. They really deserve more followers than they have.
I changed my mind on ikea kitchens after living with one in a house i renovated. (Because my original custom kitchen order from somewhere else during the lockdowns was backordered)...I use my M12 Fuel impact for all the parts and put it on setting 1. Its perfect for not stripping anything but faster then doing it by hand. Their design for space savings is unreal. You can have drawers in drawers and basically any Customization you could ever think of. Plus the door faces are cheap and easily replaced if they get damaged for so rental properties thats a huge bonus.
@@ithinkdoyou no big surprises thankfully. I hit a lot of the same pain points, like those little bumpers caused me grief and I had to take them off and go with shims instead. Shout out to the Kitchens by Rannes channel, his step by step videos should be mandatory watching linked in the IKEA manuals!
Paul, I have to say you won the lottery when it comes to son-in-laws. Rad seems like such a chill dude, always smiling, and willing to do the "dangerous" jobs! You're a blessed man with such quality kids.
What i learned doing my sektion install was to put any drawer slides and door hardware while the base cabinets were still in pieces. Youre just lining them up with the correct holes on each side. Easier than crouching down and screwing them together once the cabinet is built. Kudos to the comment about the filler pieces for the holes I'm going to purchase those now. As always stud pack is inspiring, informative and entertaining! Keep up the good work guys !
To keep the adjustability of the adjustable boxes when using spray foam. Put a barrier on fiberglass insulation around the boxes. Then mask off the fiberglass insulation and boxes. The spray foam will make contact with the fiberglass insulation, not the box. Leaving a pliable cushion between the spray foam and boxes.
Paul, I love how you always think 3 steps ahead and back! You never rush through and are a master at your craft! Great job with getting those panels in before rushing to get those doors on. 💪🏽🔨
I really appreciate Stud Pack’s commitment to getting the details right, even when that requires making some changes on the fly. I’ve deal with some contractors that didn’t listen or take any notes during the pre-project walk through that I always insist on doing. It’s usually “no problem” that I hear from them, but then as with virtually all projects (especially remodel projects) there are surprises that crop up during the actual work that require some changes. It is very frustrating when a contractor doesn’t ask before implementing a change that is something easy for them to do, but adversely affects the look of the finished job. In some cases the contractor has agreed to fix it right after I pointed out my issues; other times I’ve either had to pay them T&M to fix it, used a different contractor to fix it, or fixed it myself once they were done. Now that I’m retired, I’m trying to do more of the work on remodel projects myself. It’s slower, but I get what I want. I will say that when I can find a good contractor I stick with them for future projects.
FYI, Roo Glue is made especially for melamine. I built a built-in entertainment center in my previous house out of white melamine, and it worked great.
I did mine in 07. Been through 4 kids looking like it now. I assembled and hung them myself. It was really easy for both. I did glue any dowels. I have the tall uppers with glass fronts and maybe 20'of lowers and 16' of uppers and it was around 4K for the white foil finish at the time with all the accessories.
For the adjustable boxes: Wrap the box during installation with a bit of fiberglass insulation. This prevents the foam from adhering to the box but still gives you insulation value and allows the box to move in the wall. Quick, easy, and the foam holds the fiberglass from moving after curing. As a custom cabinet and furniture maker, I absolutely HATE IKEA (and most RTA cabinets), but I get why people use them. Inexpensive, good features, easy to assemble, and somewhat strong enough after they are installed. Maybe it's the maker in me, but I prefer to build my own and get the look and value of a solidly built cabinet that I know is going to last. Even so, you should know that Titebond makes a glue specifically for Melamine that works really well to add a ton of strength to the boxes. (It's even called a melamine adhesive.)
I worked at a custom cabinet manufacturer that did high end custom work. on the assembly line, I was a base assembler.... I would be able to assemble each box in about 15 seconds.... I'd fly a bunch out as it went down the line for doors, and then guids and drawers (each dept built their parts, drawers, doors, etc...), I would be stacked with a pile of sheet goods and face frames already gone thru build/paint etc... so I would glue the rabbits and then hold up the parts and nail down the back, left/right/bottom, then put in the toe kick and the face frame and send down the line... I could fill the entire line up and have a break waiting for other depts to catch up in about 45 min putting together jobs very quickly.
Dang guys, I think I was number 91 for likes when I started the video, 38 minutes later and you're turning close to 1200! love watching you grow, you deserve it!
I did my IKEA kitchen seven years ago and it has held up perfectly. It still looks awesome and I particularly like how the drawers open out completely/the soft close hinges/and their organizer pieces that customize the space. It was many trips to the store getting it dialed by it happens to be local to me here in Denver. When you go back to the store make sure and get the white plugs that cover the unused holes on the interiors of the cabinets. You will need a freakin' boatload with all of those cabinets. The finished look is much much better but your thumb will hate you for making it push them all it.
Hey Electrician here, Love the videos! ... also for fishing a wire you're spot on! If you want to go a step further tape the wire first so the tape edges wont rub on anything at all when fishing in tight spots.
One of the things I like about the channel, Paul owns his mistakes and always has a solution. Little things like the spacing of the cabinets so doors will open. It’s something IKEA doesn’t explain. But Paul has it covered. Well done Stud Pack. 👍
what you do for the adjustable box is? before sprayfoam put a block of wood wrapped in grease paper then you can pull the blocks out after sprayfoam and that will leave you room for adjustable box!
my guess was make a cardboard box around the box and leave it in, wouldn't loose any r value, got lots of cardboard laying around and it's easy to form and shape
There's a company that makes a fire resistant cardboard enclosure for electric boxes that provides the recommended air space when using spray foam insulation. A tradesman or supplier might be able to tell you the name and/or buy them.
I was thinking just wrap the existing plastic box in parchment paper or saran wrap or whatever. The foam will stick to the wrap and not the box and should be able to adjust in and out but still be snug enough with the foam to stop any air flow around the box. The plastic wrap should also serve the purpose of keeping foam out of the electrical box.
Surprised we've never actually run into this issue, but @chriscroz's solution sounds like the best low-cost, low-labor solution to me. Super excited to see your low-voltage lighting go live!
I watch a concrete guy on youtube regularly, and he is always wrapping patio cover posts with Foam Expansion Joint. It allows the for safe separation between the 2 materials. So if you wrap the box with it and spray foam around that it would give you the freedom to move the box in and out.
This is the earliest I’ve been to a video but I just wanted to say this whole Garage/ Studio Apartment has turned out so freaking awesome love the work keep it up been here since almost the beginning.
I have assembled quite a few of these. I have found that long-term, the studs that the cams lock into like to work their way out. The best solution to this is to use wood glue on the dowels and CA glue on all of the stud and screw threads.
Couldn’t agree more. Unless the plan is to disassemble them back to flat in the future, CA & wood glue really helps. Something about the built-up wood for the cabinet carcasses doesn’t lend itself to getting enough friction from the assembly hardware to hold over time, especially if you aren’t going to screw then into the wall somehow.
adjusting boxes w/ spray foam: wrap the boxes in typical fire-rated soft insulation (rockwool) before you spray the foam... then you have a loose margin around the box so it can still move a little, but you don't miss out on insulating that gap.
I still believe in wood glue between the dowel and the interior of the particle board hole. Doesn’t need to grab the melamine if it grabs the particle board and the dowel. Definitely adds strength.
I’ve said it before I know and you’ll probably not see this comment, but Paul, you are an excellent craftsman. So detailed and very good explanations. Jordan, your place is coming along nicely. All the people complaining and saying it looks cheap, I disagree. I think it looks great and also shows what normal people like me could also afford to do. I’m sure the main house will be super custom one off cabinet job!
How could _anyone_ say those garage doors from last week's video look cheap? Those things are the nicest looking garage doors I've ever seen! They've got to be just trolling.
I did a full ikea kitchen using their software to plan out the build, even did their butcherblock countertops. Measurements all worked out perfectly, it looked absolutely amazing and lasted for how long I stayed in the house. The biggest problem I had was I made at least 5 trips back to exchange incorrect pieces or get pieces that were missed. It's understandable because of the amount of pieces needed. I like your approach and those should last you a long time. Can't wait to see the finished product!
We just finished our Ikea kitchen, so I was really excited to watch what you guys thought of them. The designer printed off the parts list along with the 2D layout for each set of cabinets with exact dimensions...VERY helpful! We had 288 boxes in our living room and totally gutted kitchen. It took us a little bit to fully grasp the construction/feet/rails/etc., but, once we got it we got it! We also added cabinet lights in each drawer (luxury but LOVE them), but our type of kitchen is a bit different than yours and puck lights didn't work with our design. The puck lights in your cabinets look great though! LOVE your videos!!! We love how your attention to detail trumps out getting the job done quickly. It's nice to see when something went wrong or wasn't planned for, we ALL have had it happen. Your honesty and sincerity is refreshing in this "I am perfect on YT and never do anything wrong" age we live in today.
For your house build you should use Barker Cabinets. They are the best quality RTA cabinets I have seen. I have used them in a couple homes I’ve owned as have my brother and sister. They are legit custom cabinet quality at RTA prices.
I’ve been a cabinet / furniture maker for 40+ years. Now retired. All the trim and finish details for installing cabinets is what makes the difference between a mediocre install and a pro install. Great work guys!!!!
When doing spray foam at our place, we did a secondary 2x4 inner non bearing wall, and we used wider 2' spacing for our 2x6 outer studs. The foam makes the exterior wall stronger so you don't need 16" OC, and the interior 2x4 wall makes it easy to run plumbing and electrical and to make changes in future. It also means you don't necessity have to scrape foam to put drywall on, you can spray right over the studs, and even to the floor if you want. Just allow for that with a couple inches gap to your interior wall.
I always dislike putting refrigerators next to walls because the door usually needs to open more than 90 degrees to have full access to the inside due to the storage in the door blocking the interior. I would switch the refrigerator and the pantry.
Good point - and if you have a French door refrigerator, you would be screwed. As it is, the slide out drawers next to the open door will not come all the way out easily to clean.
I usually don't care much about design of a home until it comes to the kitchen. For instance, when cooking, most people need access to their fridge and water in a convenient way. I would have put the stove next to the fridge. See, with an oven, you simply "set it and forget it" so you don't need to be next to anything. An oven can be anywhere. Same as a microwave. Arguably, they really just want a flat surface to set something down on immediately when you pull the items out. I see so many of these half-million and million dollar homes with a terrible kitchen designs. The kitchen should be designed to cook in.
@@donhartfieldthe trick to good kitchen design is nothing is more than 3 steps away from the cooking/prep area. I am running through various scenarios for my kitchen. Currently it is essentially a blank slate. I have a stove, a sink and a fridge, and 1 18" drawer pack with counter top, and 1 4' base cabinet. Everything is negotiable because I have access to electric, plumbing, and gas. So I keep playing with designs trying to get the most bang for the buck out of a room that is 11 by 15, but has 2 windows, and 3 doorways. The struggle is real, 😂 keeping it a simple u or l shaped kitchen may be the best layout for it.
I put up a pretty big Ikea kitchen in a church I converted to a house. It went very well and being flat packed was crucial because I was hauling it from Ikea into a small town in the middle of nowhere. The adjustable legs were great because the slab was not flat, and I really like the upper cabinet hanging rail. When we had a sewage disaster, the lower cabinets were fine because they were sitting up on plastic legs with access underneath, and we were able to get a replacement cabinet to replace the bottom panel in the sink base when the disposal rusted through the bottom and leaked everywhere. When I build them from scratch I make the cabinets out of good 3/4 plywood but for some jobs it is great to have access to the Ikea system, accessories, and replacement parts. They do a good job with helping with planning and parts lists in the store as well. Too bad about the down draft. I have had a couple and if I moved into another place that had one it would be one of the first things I ripped out and put a proper hood.
you might want to install vents on the side of the ikea cabinet that will house the refrigerator. depending on tight the fit is, the refrigerator requires some airflow to prevent overheating.. thats what happened to my refrigerator, as the fit was tight and not enough airflow, the frig died in about a year.
This is exactly what I’d put in my garage apartment kitchen. I spent all weekend assembling the closet version of these cabinets and they’re a good value. I also used glue in the dowels- wasn’t worth it, especially when disassembly due to error.
Little Studpack detail: Much of Ikea's hardware uses what LOOKS LIKE #2 Phillips ; But it's ACTUALLY Pozi-Drive. Get yourself a Pozi-Drive #2 for that perfect fit. Love the channel ! If you need hinges, let me know (I'm in Aerospace Manufacturing).
@@AidanSkoyles It may have worked "fine", but it'll work better with the correct bit. Philips bits tend to cam out in PoziDriv screws, PoziDriv bits won't. I have a few European cars and the best thing I did for working on them was picking up a set of PoziDriv drivers.
We did an Ikea kitchen last summer. Paid a little extra to have a rep come in from a company that works strictly with Ikea products. Within 2 hrs completely laid out cabinet design, etc. and placed the order. Could have installed it myself but had so much going on. Same company also has installers as well. Fairly large kitchen and 3 guys put everything together and installed all the cabinets and detail work within 9 hrs. Included clean up and removing all the card board, etc. Ran like a military operation and worth every penny.. As far as the spray foam and boxes go, use 1/4 inch plywood, etc. Put plastic on the side of the wood that will contact the foam and use 2 sided tape to attach to the adjustable box. Once cured, just pull the plywood out. Its a little tricky where the box is attached to the stud. I helped a buddy of mine and this is what we ended up doing. Worked great.
I love how we are now at a point in this project that we are putting in cabinets! Still sureal to think that this was a muddy, crazy situation, and now, a beautiful well thought out structure is there, that will LAST! I cant wait to see the rest of the details and how the start of the main house will start. Always checkin youtube to see if studpack uploaded!
12:37 a little trick/tip that can be handy for anyone in this situation is taking the back “cardboard” type panel and using a router ¹ you’ll create a groove closer to door (meaning 2-4 inches from back if needed, and can be adjusted for needs) to create a false back so when looking in you see regular wood back or whatever color backing wall is since can paint, vinyl wrap, etc….the false piece to match needs. Only downside is lose some depth of cabinet, but usually not that noticeable ¹ if no router, a table saw, track saw, circular saw works just as well, and table saw might be easiest imo, but most might not have on site, but a track or circular saw is easier to have with you…..
Dear Stud Pack: I wholeheartedly congratulate you guys in not only finishing but dealing with that whole process without destroying a few cabinets. At least as far as we know. LOL....Cheers and congrats on the house!
Regarding your adjustable electrical boxes , I would build a "C" box enclosing that electrical box with a 1x4 or 1x6 whichever size studs you used for that wall and then insulate around it. It would be alot more work due to the wiring.
All said and done, I’ve seen 15 year old IKEA kitchens that are holding up better than customs. Lots of quirks and returns at times, but they’re great.
The only "problem" is that then you have a cheap Ikea kitchen that everyone else has. Nothing unique or inspiring. Probably not important if you don't plan to sell your house at some point. But for resale value, it might be a factor in anything above average.
Done this a few times with the older Ikea cabinets. Glue on the dowels, pozidrive bit not Phillips for everything, glue the pack panel and use a pneumatic stapler 1/4” crown instead of those tiny nails.
Overkill. I’ve done about 11 ikea kitchens so far, and a few other non-ikea ones. They hold up just fine when you assemble them as per the instructions.
I use roo glue (melamine glue ) as I assemble, the particle board will break before the glue joint fails. Also a bead of silicone on the interior seams will prevent water damage.
Hi stud pack, I’m glad I found your channel, I’m in the process of building a 1200 square foot adu. I’m finding your channel super helpful. I’m also going with an ikea kitchen, anyways keep up the great work !
On your base cabinet with the sink: once it’s put together, caulk the inside of all the seams with a white silicone. Seals it up so when there’s a water leak the panels of your cabinet won’t “balloon” & need to be replaced. (I live in Florida… bugs everywhere… so I caulk the inside seams of every box to keep the critters out.)
15:44 the clear vapor barrier boxes in different sizes, should be able to go behind the adjustable gang box to allow some room for adjustments but depending on location and foam using, movement will vary so ya know, PLUS, need to now allow for the extra depth in cavity etc…..
Paul, you are the most understanding dad to all of Jordan's endless demands, such as special lighting in obscure cracks, crevices, corners, nooks and high in the ceilings. New toilet designs that require extensive installation. Showers that require massive slabs of porcelain and heated floors (really), and so much more. I would have reached my limit with my son by now with all the new gadgets and design preferences Jordan must find on the internet and becomes convinced he must have. Maybe that's why I find your videos so compelling. I l also love the way Paul has an answer or workaround for everything.
I have an idea for the adjustable electrical boxes. Might not work but what if you put air filled shipping pillows around them before insulation. They will either pop or can be popped after insulation. This may give you adjustment room. IDK just thought it when you asked.
I don't see why people are saying it looks bad or cheap. First, it's not completely finished. Once drawers, doors, and appliances are added it will look better. Second, it's for the garage. Save money there and upgrade for the main home. Lastly, our opinions are our own. The only thing that matters is that Jordan is happy with it. Looking forward to the next one!
For the spray foam and adjustable boxes, couldn't you put 2 scrap 2x4's together and put those where the box would go (with the wire maybe coming through the middle so the "service loop" would be outside the area of spray foam? That way then you can go back after the foam is finished expanding, pull out the scrap 2x4's and put in the adjustable boxes and run the wires through the holes in the back.
Before going into business for myself I worked at a cabinet shop in Ohio. Those 1/4 turn cam locks are junk. They break and fall apart all the time. But if you want a cheap decent looking kitchen they work
I’ve put a few different prefab kitchens together before including from IKEA and Bunnings. Generally pretty straight forward to put together but like you guys, you will run into some hurdles. Honestly I like them even if you only go for the shells and get the doors/covers later you can save a lot of money.
my uncle installed hundreds of kitchens in his career. he helped his son assemble his ikea kitchen when he was older and he was blown away by the design, quality and easyness of construction. it was more than 15 years ago.
about the adjustable boxes, put them with a plastic bag. Make a little hole with a pen or so for the cables go through(tight fit) and you should be good to go
Most likely when we wrap up the kitchen here pretty soon. Can already tell you it's been a nightmare to get the pieces that weren't here during the initial delivery. Massive downside.
@@StudPack Suggestion for all the cabinets that’ll have any kind of water connection inside: put a bead of silicone caulk on all the seams inside the box (can do it as it’s put together or after it’s installed). Keeps future water damage to a minimum. Been doing this for years… also, whenever possible, like to put a very tiny pitch toward the front of the cabinet(s)… so when there’s a leak, the water (or whatever was stored) will run out the front & I find the leak ASAP. Lastly, been living in Florida for 35+ years… bugs everywhere, all year… I actually caulk every interior seam of every cabinet box… kitchen, bathroom, utility room, etc… so no critters can get inside my stuff (well, unless they use the doors). 😂🤣 Loving your GarageMahal videos! Keep up the great work! 🎉🎉 PS - may’ve made a similar comment waaaay back in your “total kitchen remodel” video series… been subscribed for a long time & still the first channel I check every time I open RU-vid. 👍🏼
This was very helpful. Mistakes make us see some things much better and take notes for the next time. Thank you, gentlemen for filming and sharing this video.
3:43 - put the dowels in the horizontal piece first instead, because this way if they are really tight, when you push it in, it might push the dowel through the hole and you will have some damage on the side of your cabinets
I would Fram around the box with some 1/2 plywood, Make U that first around with whole to let the wire run thought it. Foam should go right around the plywood and keep the adjustable box adjustable!
I looked into the ikea system, but ended up going a local place for a flatpack setup, glad I did, not only was it about half the price, looking at this, it was a lot better quality. none of those stupid stud/twist things, just glue and screw. also every cabinet had a solid back. all the hardware provided was also blum, some of the best hinges and drawers I have ever used and for a very cheap price.
@@r7boatguy i'm pretty sure the melamine is shipped, as I don't think that is made here, at least not in my state, the hardware is from blum which is Austrian so probably came from Austria, the USA, Brazil or Poland depending on which factory it came from.
Back in 2015 I built my entire kitchen with IKEA cabinets and countertops, and sink. I had no experience and it didn’t stop me. I loved the anti slam doors and everything fit like glove and was easy to install.
IKEA sells plugs for the unused shelf support holes. They cost little and make a surprising difference in cleaning up the look with glass fronted cabinets especially.
I put those in my personal kitchen and have been impressed so far. Two years later. I also used my micro pin nailer to secure back panel after squaring up. Good job guys
careful with clear glass doors. No one's cabinets ever look like what you see in magazines. Better off with obscure class, like frosted, fluted, etc. I'd also do your counter up more than 36". 39" is a good #, I'm tall, I'd do 40". Lastly, you may be bothered by having the oven and micro, next to a wall. Usually there's space around these appliances for "working room". Trust me on this.
Adjustable depth box tip...spary the outside of the box with PVA and you can move it once the foam sets. It takes three coats of PVA, but it does allow you to pull the boxes out to the right depth.
I installed an Ikea kitchen about 10 years ago and it was totally worth it for a sub-$200k house. I think I paid around $12k total and installed it myself. I did have a snag or two when I forgot to buy some trim or whatever. The other advice that EVERYONE needs to know with Ikea is to immediately go through each and every box ON DELIVERY and make sure all the parts and hardware are there and undamaged. They will not help you if you come back weeks later and tell them you're missing something.
@@3nertia the average US kitchen is replaced every 10 years, no matter who makes it. Why would you want to waste large amounts of better quality materials when it's all going to end up in a landfill anyway? Yes, there are some exceptions, but they are just that ... exceptions. Ikea's approach is to use cheaper, lower resource materials for the invisible parts of their cabinets, and then clad the visible/touchable parts in smaller amounts of quality materials. The one I built in 2003 lasted 15 years and was still in excellent condition after that time. Maybe it's not to your tastes, but it's also not junk.
@@marksmith4645 I'm quoting you statistics, not guesswork. Alas, right now I can't find a citation for number. Most of what is online these days comes from kitchen remodellers and cabinet makers, and they say you "should" change it up every 10-15 years, which is clearly in their interest, not ours. However, I did get this number from a government statistics site some years back, and I believe it is still approximately correct.
Matt Risinger years ago did a sound "proofing" product highlight video. There is a clay pad that can be formed around the electrical box, I would think that would give a good solid release from the foam.
I stopped buying IKEA ready to assemble furniture and cabinets when I watched a documentary on TV showing how all the particleboard forests in Sweden have been decimated. There’s almost no old growth particleboard anymore in Sweden! 🤪
Not only that but after visiting an IKEA store I lost all faith and Swedish engineering. How could they not have figured out to not have all four wheels swivel on the shopping carts? I think the superiority of fixed rear wheels/swiveling front wheels design was proven before the Roman Empire. Even Fred Flintstones‘s car didn’t have swiveling rear wheels.
I’m a lil late, but 16:09 the adjustable depth boxes… I don’t know how you feel about using metal boxes, but you could have used 4square deep boxes and they make (they meaning steel city etc.) a single gang mud ring where the inner part of the opening as a screw for adjusting, but instead of the whole box moving it’s just the central part of the opening, so all the movements comes from the central part of the box, they come in in single gang and double gang styles. Don’t know if this helps. I’m a comm/industrial electrician in Florida.
I live on the gulf in Florida. Former resident of Houston. I would be very wary of installing MDF cabs because of the humidity. Unless I was doing a flip. My cabs are void free plywood. Not warped after 30 years
You guys in the South have it SO easy! I can't use Romex where I live. Lots of conduit bending and armored cable. I'm jealous watching how easy all your changes were.
Why? It’s the best material for it. Most custom cabinets here in Australia feature mdf or particle board substrates and then veneered with timber or using thermolaminates. Plywood is the old technology now.
@@Mr.Saltwater Australian cities suffer high humidity too. Right now it’s 90% in Sydney and it’s the start of winter here. But that doesn’t limit material choice. MR MDF and HDF products have better moisture resistance capabilities, you can use thermolaminates to completely encase the substrate, 2k or CV finishes also work well. And failing that, PVC based substrates like corelite will work too. I mean plywood is not any better at resisting environmental factors, and is more likely to warp or expand/contract under environmental load than MDF is. Again, how it’s finished will be a leading indicator on how durable the material is.
Built a previous IKEA kitchen. The cabinets are fine. Each leg can hold 300lbs. The most recent kitchen is from Mendard's.(Wisconsin Home Depot) The cabinets are exactly like IKEA cabinets. Most manufacturers have decided to copy IKEA because they work and are inexpensive. You can still buy wood cabinets, but even the big box stores are mostly switching over.
IKEA is most commonly spelled: S-U-C-K-S What were you guys thinking seriously?. You get better quality at Builders-Surplus or even Seconds & Surplus. Hell even RTA Mail-order is better than IKEA. Did I mention how to spell IKEA properly?. 🤦♂️
15:15 Taking a wild shot at it. Wrap the box in cling wrap after the wire is run and before the spray foam is applied. Maybe put a single layer of bubble wrap behind the box inside the cling wrap to give you some adjustment slack.
You obviously have not priced cabinets lately!!!! Also going with Ikea you can get kits that you can adjust to fit what sapce you have. Otherwise you are talking about 20-30k for custom cabinets to do the entire kitchen. Also why would they waste $20-30k for cabinets , for that temporary space , because they are likely going to put the custom cabinets in the main house and save that money!
I used IKEA Pax cabinets when we built out the closet. great platrofm and super customizable. After they're trimmed out, they can look like super highend built-ins.
I bet wrapping the outlet box in wax paper would work. Use some tape to secure it. Parchment paper is even more sturdy. Just a thought to keep spray foam off the outlet box.
Why I will not shop Ikea -- they do not pay income taxes anywhere in the world... further, they burden cities when they build there by requiring expensive infrastructure while not contributing to income tax and taking a huge discount on property taxes. I vote with my pocketbook. Not a dime of mine into their pocket!
Yes, IKEA does pay taxes. According to IKEA's tax principles, they are committed to complying with all tax legislation and paying taxes in accordance with the rules and regulations in the jurisdictions where they operate. They have a tax policy in place based on their tax principles that has been approved by the Finance Committee of their Management Board. IKEA pays taxes on its sales and profits in the countries where it operates. For example, in the United States, IKEA pays sales tax on its sales and corporate income tax on its profits. In other countries, the specific taxes IKEA pays may vary depending on the local tax laws. It's worth noting that IKEA's tax practices have been scrutinized in the past. In 2017, it was reported that IKEA had not paid any corporate income tax in Australia despite making significant sales in the country. However, IKEA stated that it complies with all tax laws and regulations in the countries where it operates.
@@CUBuffnSD Not true! I worked with a city that Ikea came to... it cost taxpayers a lot and Ikea didn't pay a dime... continues to not pay income taxes.
adjustable depth boxes and spray foam, i wrap the box in 4mil dropcloth, and set it fully back. after foam bonds to plastic and dries, you can still pull the box forward as needed
I'm disappointed with the decision to use these cabinets. You could have simply saved all of your cardboard and made your own. In my opinion IKEA is not cool at all... pure junk, but I also realize I'm not the one paying for them. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Love everything else you've done so far, but not the cabinets.
