Your an awesome dad, I wish I had a dad like you. Grew up father less since birth, every time I see you and Jordan it brings a smile to my face, happy early Father’s Day!
Hey Stud Pack! Nice to see the new drop! :) Question: how's the siding, roof, windows, and all that outside weather sealant you installed - doing against this rain and wind??
I have been an electrician for about 50 years now, and, anytime I can make a device or system safer than it was designed, I do it. The electrical code sometimes takes a little while to catch up with reality.
First video i have seen from your channel and all i have to say is RESPECT. The way you and your son carried yourself through what no doubtedly was a frustrating and stressful experience was nothing but Class. Respect to you both and i will be here as a loyal viewer and supporter of your channel from now on.
Another great video stud pack. I'm waiting every week for one to come out. I wish you could increase your productivity and get out too. Maybe but anyway great jobs men!
Must. Put blocking on bottonside each side of doors so you have something to nail to when you install baseboard. The casing will get nailed to the double studs. Drywall can not hold trim nails.
I'm so glad you all were ok. I want to commend you on your channel. Not only is it educational, but it is also family friendly. I've never heard you say a word that I wouldn't want my child to hear. Thank you for being wholesome and showcasing blue collar careers!
Another great video Studs!!! Me being the hypercritical one, a few suggestions...let's start with the SawStop...I've noticed you tend to run the saw blade dangerously high when cutting. Rule of thumb has always been 2 teeth above the board, no more. It's possible you got some sweat created an electrical short and stopped the blade. I've been cutting everything you can imagine for close to 60 years and always followed that rule, never needed a SawStopper. Second, for the joist gaps, through-bolting would have prevented that and given you exacting widths for your trim. There were gaps-a-plenty in sistering those joists. We also always through-bolted the deck joists to the wall. Some city codes require it. Sure can't hurt when you get 50 people partying hearty on that deck one day...and yes Paul...it's gonna happen...hahaha And lastly, don't think we missed your push for the new female subscribers with the hot, sweaty, Chippendale Caulking Crew...not fair for us dad bods... Keep up the good stuff brothers!!!
Stud Pack, it hurts my soul to see Ikea cabinets to go into this top tier build. Please take a serious look at Cabinotch cabinets if you want flat stacked cabinets but 1000% better.
You can use a much smaller pipe/hole saw. It does not need to be in direct contact with the PVC or even a snug fit at all. 1/2 gap all the way around will still work as long as its red hot. It will generally trash a hole saw blade (the paint coating will start to come off), but save your old crappy ones or go to harbor freight and get the cheapest thing. The metal has enough thermal mass, and being circular will eventually heat the fitting from the inside. It will not be hot enough to damage the PVC or light things on fire. After about 1-2 minutes remove the hot piece and you will have a nice gummy PVC fitting. I usually the grab edge of the old fitting/pipe with needle nose or vice grips and just twist. They old PVC glue just peels off like opening an old tin can with the key. If it starts to get too stiff, just repeat but I usually get them in 1 go. Minimal fumes, easy to adapt to many circumstances, and not too fussy with what you use. Hell I even heated them up on the stove or BBQ grill before.
I'm working on a 95 year old pier and beam home in Baton Rouge. It's my first rental property. There was some soft spots in the kitchen due to broken 1x8 subfloor. My plan is to lay 3/4 plywood subfloor on top. My question is do I need to put a vapor barrier between the layers? When I demod there was a vapor barrier between the subfloor and the wood flooring.
I’ve been. Project super and carpenter for well over 40 years now The best way to do the posts and beams is to wrap them. I had a project last year with this exact thing. We priced out the solid cedar post and they were 6 times the cost of the wrapped cedar and to be honest getting 10 foot straight 6X6 or even harder 8X8 cedar post was next to impossible We ALWAYS just wrap them
What an outstanding job you guys are doing. Wanna know, are you going to do anything with the underneath of the 2 roofs so to speak? and come on, just tell us, where is the missile silo going?
Hope you have better luck than my bro in law did with his cedar siding. The wood peckers loved making half dollar size holes in the cedar. Seemed nothing stopped them. Filling holes was a yearly chore.
Excellent description of what ive ran into on my rentals houses built in 50's took a steel chisel cut lead pipe at floor level bought flange with threads and rubber gasket put it in 4 lead pipe twist it gasket threaded up on flange sealed up tight then aligned flanged then screwed it to floor
yeah... too many issues with a self stopping saws and the cost when they randomly trip. I'll stick to playing with the old stuff that just works.. through thick and skin. lol
Now you have plenty of light & windows for all those thieves to look into your garage! You may want to change that? Comes from experience, my friend! You & the old man take care! Also, congrats on the new home!
I'd say the biggest thing this channel has taught me is how to use nails and screws to force wonky boards to be straight. You actually have a lot more room to adjust a board than I ever imagined. Of course, a little bit of sledge never hurts. Please consider painting the ceiling of the porch haint blue. Gotta have a nod to tradition.
