Air jacks are no joke and if the body kit didn’t make it a racecar the air jacks for sure do. Dylan’s excitement to let the air out of the Jacks says it all.
Looks epic. My only advice is just make sure they your air release on the jacks aren’t pointing at any weak points in the kit. If you dump 600psi into a fender you’ll eventually crack it. Might be worth fabricating a deflection plate. Can’t wait to see the end result!
You should use distribution blocks at the fill point and run all lines directly from that to each jack. This will keep all lines parallel which would make all jacks raise equally. Because they are in series the back will always raise first.
On a lambo gt3 or even the Supertrofeo that has the same airjack sistem (as all the other GT cars do) because the engine being in the back the front raises first and the airjack goes in the rear bumper
At first I didn’t think I’d like this build , but man is it turning out sick . The air jacks are super smart to put on if you were to track the car more then street driving . But still dope .
Race truck = easy 300k+ project(and i doubt tj will ever offroad race). Kyle could build a nasty fully caged/linked prerunner but thatd still end up 120k+
The front goes up last and goes down first because you have the lines hooked up in a series circuit, if you were to hook them up in a parallel circuit they should all go up at the same time and down at the same time 👌👍
Couldn't it be because the front is a lot heavier and needs to build more pressure inside the cilinders to be able to lift the engine, where the rear is an empty shell?
the length the air traveled to the rear jacks was probably shorter, so he could also make the pipe lead initially to the Center beneath the door, then connect them to the jacks at equal distances
This is so dope. Tj is building a race for the street. Kyle has been a great addition to the team. Listening to him talk about fabrication is so entertaining.
Teeg, as for the speed of rising and lowering in our gt3 car we added 2 manual valves. One right before the airjack handle (we keep the air that comes out at 33 ish bar and after we insert the handle we slowly open the valve) and the other one is in a hidden but reachable place on the plumbed air system so there as well you can slowly open the valve to release as much air as you like with the speed that you want. Pressures wise as said in another comment the air tank to last a couple of time up and down we, with the sisters we have (we got Paoli tanks), we put around 200\210 bar of pressure and with the regulator we set the exit pressure between 30 and 35 bar. This way it has the strength to raise it and you have the possibility to control the speed of arise and descend
The yaw rate sensor is what sets of the air bags in the event of a collision, it will set off a vehicles air bag if it detects a sudden change in g force or excessive change in angles
One of the best tricks I've seen for doing lines like these is to take a 2X6 board and drill a hole through the 6" section that matches the diameter of the tubing. Thread your tubing through the hole in the board. When you pull the tubing through, it is now straight and easy to use.
The amount of workmanship and skills going into this build is INSANE. You guys are making next level shiz look like water off a duck's back. Can't wait to see this one complete.
Quick tip if you’ve never used air jacks before TJ, when using the car the collar always need to be pulled out , if not the air inside can expand with temperature, causing the jacks to go down when you don’t think they are down. They can touch the floor and ruin them. Also to set the pressure you need to run them at, wind the reg right off and turn the bottle on. Wind the reg in until the car goes up at and holds it
If your doing Airjacks you might aswell go full send. - Centre Lock wheels (BBS E88’s) but I know your going HRE - Nitron x Team Schirmer R3 Coilovers - Ceramic Brakes - Weld In Half Cage as full cage with overhead bars are not safe on road without a helmet - Full Carbon Recaros (Pole Positions 7kg each) - Full SPL adjustable arms
I use those air lines for plumbing sometimes and if you can’t get it to seat right, we use pipe dope (tru blue) and it usually works. You’re running a high pressure but it might work or at least temporarily till the new lines come in. Love the videos! And Dylan and Kyle have been an awesome addition!
When the thread itself is the seal you want some kind of thread sealant, like Teflon tape. These type of fitting do not use the threads as a seal so you do not want to use Teflon tape on them. You want “metal to metal” contact on the threads so that you get the tightest fit possible at the ferrule (where the seal actually occurs on these connectors).
Kyle is genuinely amazing. At first, I was like it's just a body kit. cool build but that's it. But Airjack Idea is Dope. Kudos to Dylan and Kyle! Definitely step in the right direction. Subscribed.
Yeahhhh buddy. I used to experience these on some track cars back in the day. Once the leaks are sorted out it’ll feel much more natural and it’ll hold its position without the bottle staying attached. You can use a proportioning valve to make the front and rear rise at the same rate btw
Great video TJ. As per crash sensors you should be fine, think of the car getting air over a small bridge etc, crash sensors, potentiometers and yaw sensors all take into effect the G, air jacks wont triggers the airbags and iirc the anti-theft via towing is still higher than a foot so should be fine.
For straight brake lines from a roll like that, get a 2x4 and drill through the 2 inch part across through the other side, and run the line through and it'll pull it all perfectly straight like a dispenser
The reason why the kit comes with that kind of piping is because there is more pressure going through it so if you use normal lines for air bag, it will just rip open from the pressure
I've never done air jacks but I have done hard lines for airbag suspension. Rubber can expand under higher psi and also crimps shut easier but it bounces back, also easier to rub holes in and dry rot. Hard line, either copper or aluminum, doesn't expand or implode with the psi this system should see, doesn't rot or get holes but once crimped it stays that way and the system is very prone to leaking. Which is why most fancy airbag systems only use hard lines from the tank to the valves and then soft line the rest of the way. Plastic line is the best of both worlds but you can't bend it around tight corners and if it goes through metal without a gromit it'll rub a hole eventually. Also kinda prone to leaking also. Which is why most kits have valve blocks, compressor inside an air tank and you just run a line to each corner, a lot more simple. Air jacks should be the same. But way cooler. Get Kyle to figure out how to turn another set of air jacks in to crazy travel air suspension for a project. No other systems using bags will have that travel besides triple bellow semi truck bags which won't fit into any normal sized vehicle
I’d keep in mind the serviceability of the system once everything is all together, can almost guarantee this will leak at some point so you’d want to be able to access the fittings. But I trust you guys and love the build
Love the air jacks. I think it's an awesome addition. In regards to the airbags vs air jacks and vibration. I remember a video that viral of guy who cammed his ZL1 (I believe was the car) and he got on it and the car shook so bad that the airbags deployed and the car called OnStar. I've also seen guys jump their pick up trucks and land with enough force to deploy the airbags.
You’re right and I remember this and instantly thought of it when TJ mentioned the airbags. It was guitarmegeddonZL1 and he had a exhaust dump with a valve right behind the headers. They faced directly at the rear quarter panel crash sensor which was triggered by the vibration from the exhaust. Car thought it was t boned 😂
TJ Hunt Awesome Video I think it's awesome that you guys installed that awesome Air Jack System on your M4 GT3 and I think it's absolutey incredible and I can't wait to see the Build fully completed
This is so sick. I think to solve the problem youre gonna have to run individual lines to each air jack. As they raise and drop separately from front to back its likely the lateral pressure on them could cause them to bend or deform over time. Only a slight deformation will cause them to seize
The reason why the lines are metal and not rubber or plastic is because of the pressure that you use to raise the car from your air tank. Us in the team I work for we keep the tanks at 210 bar and we set the airjack at 30\33 bar. Rubber or plastic are not made to hold those pressures
I believe the reason you can't use plastic on this system would be because it's not like on an air suspension where it pumps up gradually using a lower continuous pressure, where as these jacks are more of an impact higher pressure so plastic would likely blow, if that makes sense 😅 it did to me 😂
I work w/ aircraft hydraulics and pneumatics, non rigid lines can have sidewall flex which can lead to both you not getting desired pressure and frequent blowouts aluminum is always 100% the way to go for systems that “instantly” pressurize
Airbag sensors will activate with a sudden change in y-axis movement just like on the x-axis. For example if you were to crash and fall off a bridge the airbags will go off because the sensors have noticed a sudden change in position even before you hit the water/ground
@@xsspeed419 agreed, just letting teej/comment section know how airbag sensors work in a crash environment. I don’t think the airbag sensors will activate with a small elevation change.
The aluminum lines will be for the higher pressure required for the air jacks because shop air will be 90psi of constant pressure and I think most pit crew air is set to 120psi nice work though boys
In motorsport you normally only drop the car in race conditions, you let down slow to preserve the jacks, also make sure to turn the gas bottle off when the car is up👍
Your airbags is not the problem. If you use te oem fuelpump that could stop working when the shock is to big. Because the pump also has a crash/flipover safety on it to prevent fuel leaks when in a crash or flip over. This safety can even be activated when hitting a curb to hard.
Yooooooo! F$#king fire bro. You guys just did what a ton of people wish they could do to their street cars. If I could ever do that narley of a build, the air jacks will be on the build. Huge flex and F the haters.
GM master tech here, that small of a drop will be perfectly fine for the airbag sensors. Your car faces far more significant impacts when driving down the interstate than that.
Teeej…. FANTASTIC …yes I’m full on biased.. no not because of BMW, I’m and Audi guy a Cadillac guy, because I live in the US of A lol. Your content rocks, because your team rocks…. Got the news that my retro Hunt & Co order is on its way…. This is my 4th order… keep ‘em coming for me the TRUE story of a young gun going out in to the world to conquer it! You know what made me do a victory dance?, when I got your Valvoline “keep moving forward” suit…..
SRS systems use a G force sensor. and its set with manufacturer perimeters. so yes some impacts can set off an air back if it activates a G force sensor.
If you drill a hole in a 2x4 width wise and run the brake line or fuel lines through it, it’ll run the line perfectly straight for ya so you can bend em fresh
I work at a shop called ace performance that sells Ginetta race cars and so I work on them for a living and they have a very similar system. Except they only weigh 2,400 pounds and they only have 3 jacks out takes are set up around 450 psi. I’m sure your going to do this but fix all of your leaks then retest before sending it up to 600-800 psi because those cars are pretty violent when they go up and down and I just don’t want you to blow up a line and possibly putting a hole though the car. Also seems like your having a problem with the quick release to fill the car up. They are typically pretty hard to pull it’s normal just sand out of the way when it releases you don’t want to get hit by the quick release, but when you do that the car should stay up that’s how you change the tires. I’m sure you’ll figure it out but if not I can help you out.
@tjhunt the ACSM witch is the crash safty moudal read vehicle speed also monitors G forces. its a very smart modual it needs to see a reall big amount of Gs and impact from various sensors inorder to trigger bags to deploy ... im a bmw tech for over 12 years GL man im really looking foward to seeing this build complete
It should not be any problem at all with the airbags, if it is I would be so surprised that I don’t know. Have jumped higher then that with cars and it haven’t been any problem. Also I have Ben working with Porsche race cars for years and the air jack are one of the best and practical things I know in the car world. You are not gonna regret putting them on :)
Try twisting as you pull the wand off. You can also add a quick connect fitting at the wand side. Release pressure with the quick connect and the wand pulls out easy
But also remember you can actually set off an airbag from a big enough drop or if you hit front bumper hard enough in right spot. But you should be fine because the jacks won’t let it drop through the pressure being released
Dropping the car wont set the airbags off cuz depending on vehicles they impact sensors are usually somewhere on the front/rear bumpers and cars with curtain airbags will have them down the side of the car as well and to set them off takes a significant impact. My friends and i tried to set off the airbags in a junk car we had by hitting it with baseball bats, a metal pipe and throwing large rocks at it and nothing worked. We finally drove the bucket from the tractor into the front doing about 30km/hr and it finally set them off so youll be fine dropping the car 5-6 inches.
