I will probably pick some of your stiching chisels up soon, I just bought a brass handle blade holder and your corter pounder. Ive been watching your videos for a few months now and I have to say you sparked quite the fire in me. Thank you
It’s funny how the names change in different parts of the world. Where I’m from we call them European style or Japanese style (for the diamond style). They’re nicely done once again, I love the packaging design!
Great work! I love to see you designing quality tools with Buckleguy. What tools are next? Do you have any thoughts on something like a wing divider, skiver, or mallet?
Hi Eric! I’m interested in your Japanese style diamond chisels. I already have a French style set from KS Blade. You showed that the stitching of the French style has a more aggressive slant. But wouldn’t that be because you used a tighter spacing for the French stitching (3.38 mm) than for the diamond stitching (3.85 mm) in your example? If you used the same spacing for each style, would the slant of the stitching be more similar? Thanks for the content as always, I enjoy your videos.
When do the 1mm x 5mm hole punches come out. So far, the only version worth anything is the Sinabroks hole punches. 1.0 mm x 5mm and 1.2mm x 6 mm. I use these this 1mm Ritza 25 thread. Easy to stitch and look really great when hammered down. (they are really good for large, long seams)
French style user here. Glad you made that variation though I have so many different sets I'm not your target audience at the moment. P.S. I can tell you are losing weight. great job, I'm on the same journey myself.
@@jamesa8225 "4z" set w/ the replaceable times in french style. Never had a better experience laying. a stitch line in my life. The heft and thickness are actually a bonus and help you line up 90 degrees through the material. I would purchase from aliexpress, not ebay (they inflate price)
In descriptions, they usually also describe irons as number of stiches per inch, so 3.38 is 7 SPI, 3.00m is 9 SPI. So maybe just to give a nice round number on the SPI?
This is my big gripe with these too. Really useless in terms of pattern making. If you’re someone who likes to make patterns you’ll know how much better a whole number, or something easily divisible by 2 is. 3, 4, and 5 would’ve been much better spacing choices…
@@ffotograffydd yeah, but who uses that? Even the traditional “pricking irons” are obsolete now. Everything is a hybrid iron nowadays, and SPI is not very useful. When designing patterns for small goods inches is not a good unit of measure. Card wallet pockets for instance are usually 100-105mm wide. Having an easily divisible tooth spacing would help you tweak patterns to easily accommodate different spacings. For example, if you do your stitching 3mm from the edge, 3mm on either side is 6mm allocated for the distance from the edge until the stitching starts. If you’re using 3mm irons you can easily take away 6mm from 100mm and then divide that by 3. 100-6= 94. 94/3= 31.33333. Therefore you can round up to 32 and multiply that by 3. That’s 96, and now add the extra 6mm for your wing diver distance. That equals 102mm. So you can make your card pockets 102mm wide in order to perfectly accommodate your irons and not get an ugly long stitch because you didn’t calculate properly. When you try doing that with crappy spacings like 3.38 and 3.85 you end up with a mess of decimals and that becomes hard to juggle even if you’re using CAD. I tried doing that recently with 2.7 and it was tedious to design an entire bifold with curves and angles. Not only that, but most people using French irons are likely interested in making finer leather goods, so the 5mm spacing is an odd choice even though it’s the only whole number.
France had a different system of measures before the revolution and french inch was equal to 27mm. So dividing 27mm by the required value of SPI (Stitches per inch) we get these weird numbers
French iron geometry is most apparent on Hermes leather products--notably 10K to 500K handbags-- angularity of leather penetration is accentuated by thread angularity conforming harmoniously to prick slant
is there really a big difference between the cheep $10-15 diamond chisels and the more expensive? I've been hesitant to pull the trigger and spend the $$ if there isn't much difference.
Yes there really is a difference - save up and do it, you won’t be sorry. And these are very good value for money in comparison to many sourced abroad.
In a word, yes. I wouldn’t say that a $300 iron is 10x better than a $30 iron necessarily, but there is a big difference. These are pretty well priced at under $200 for a set, and you can expect a few felt improvements over a cheap set - Cleaner holes: teeth will be sharper and machined more precisely Better release: the well made, polished teeth are going to slide right back out with a pull, whereas a rough finish/coated iron takes more time and effort. The polished surface means less energy is required on entry and exit. Better performance long-term: the quality tool steel is going to mean sharper teeth for a longer time - you’ll still get good results waaaay down the line where a cheap iron turns into a blunt fork relatively quickly. The “intangibles”: a well made tool just feels better, tolerances are better, balance/weight is better, fit/finish is better. One should use the best tools one can afford! There’s a pleasure in using a quality tool that makes for a better work experience, which translates to better work. If you aspire to professional results, professional tools are a component.
