This is one if not the most informative videos on classic car frames, components, and most importantly the “why”. Really nice job fellas and thank you on behalf of everyone that learns from your shared experience.
I'm an engineer working on trying to get into the hot-rod chassis industry and I gott say, this was very informative. Love this type of content! Thanks a bunch for sharing!
Just a 48 year old enthusiast here that loves to see how it all goes together. What I really enjoyed on this video was some of the theory behind why you set it up the way you do. Makes sense to me. Other guys are just slapping parts together without that engineering mind. It’s the why that makes the what work. Great job. Algorithm directed me here. I had the opportunity several years ago to have a private Saturday tour of the Detroit Speed Shop and was amazed at the engineering that goes into their stuff. I’m happy to see you incorporate the same if not more degree of engineering in your entire build.
He really doesn't. He talks confidently and seems like he knows what he's talking about, but he is clearly full of crap if you actually know about suspension. His explanation of caster is laughable.
Intro is trash. They cut before they say the important part. They are purposefully wasting your time. DONT PUT PARTS INTO THE VIDEO DESIGNED TO BE SKIPPED
See so many hot rod chassis built with a panhard bar placed wherever it 'looks good', or watts linkage used 'cause its better' with no mention of roll center! Great to see some sound theory going into a quality build!
Regarding the caster angle - the primary reason that engineers reduced the caster angle in pre-70s cars was because it reduced steering effort when you had a manual steering box. It also caused the cars to become unstable at higher speeds creating a condition that slowed the cars down, but the primary reason for it was steering effort. Parallel parking a manual steering car was difficult, so reducing the return-to-center tendency made them easier to steer by reducing the caster to almost zero. Once power steering came into common use the steering caster was increased, but not by much initially. It took them a while to discover that increasing the caster also greatly increased the stability at high speed (even with worn out components), and in addition it helped anti-dive under hard braking. The anti-dive started to be important because disk brakes came into common use at the same time, which created far more braking force in the front end. The anti-dive was more important in the motorcycle world because heavy brake force really caused much more "dive" at the front wheel. This caused strange handling characteristics, especially when racing - so anti-dive started showing up on production bikes in the early 70s. Anti-dive then started showing up in production cars (like the Mustang II suspension) a little bit later.
@wackowacko8931 You are absolutely spot on. One other thing about positive caster that I like is how it promotes negative camber on the outside tire so that the tread stays flatter on the ground during hard cornering. They mentioned how a low panhard bar mount keeps roll centers low but its not the only thing that dictates rear roll center height, all of the rear suspension mounting points factor into roll center height. I was always concerned for guys that ran the wishbone on drag cars above the rear end housing vs below the housing. There are enough door cars out there going 230mph plus to prove that altering the height of the wishbone alone by 13"-14" is not as big of an issue as what I initially thought it was.
This is one of the most informative explanations on steering geometry I've heard. I took Auto Mechanics in high school, which seems like 100 years ago now, and I've read and thought about, as well as noticed, SOME of that over the years. This was definitely more informed and concise than all I had come up with. And you guys are actually doing it. Hats off to y'all, keep this stuff up and I'll definitely be watching more.
Although, I may never be privileged to use any of the info I’ve learned here today it does in fact give me a proper perspective. This is like watching the process of a painter. True artisans. Thank you for the privilege.
I love the engineering and quality of the fabrication on this. Also the most concise and accurate description of how to engineer bump steer out of your suspension.
I’m an old man I have reversed engineered many things to mechanically and electrically due to problematic systems anything from the Chrysler leanburg system back in the late 70s to caterpillar diesel 120 pin ECM‘s. I won’t even get into the mechanical aspects of other things. I absolutely love your thought process on your frame. I’m assuming you’re probably going to Powdercoat the frame. I just watched a video where the powder coated a 59 El Camino from the firewall back and honestly, it looked fantastic. I believe that was also in California. I think a company called Primo did it? I just subscribed to your page because of walking this video. Fantastic work guys. I applaud you.
I really enjoyed your video. This is the first one of yours I ran across. Well done. Back in the 1980's, me and a friend ran a couple of Opel GT's on the autocross circuit. We made all our suspension bushings out of delrin. A great material. Thank you for the great information.
You should consider the Terry Satchell designed Truck Arm Satchell Link. Specifically designed for NASCAR Winston Cup Road Course/Road Race use. Fully triangulated it has no need for Panhard or Watts link. It also is very stable at high speed and nimble at low speeds. Generally the Truck arms are self explanatory and the upper arms are shorter, above the axle and parallel and connected directly above the axle mounts for truck arms. He also designed a very similar system for use in Desert Racing particularly the Baja 500 and 1000.
Awesome video - I really like the explanation of how things work, and why you are doing it the way you are. Your design, fabrication, and assembly all look to be top notch, as is your attention to detail. Edit to add - If I win the lottery, I'm bringing you my '64 Riveria.
I've always wanted to try my hand at building my own tube frame chassis. Some of the sheet metal fabrication and shaping for hotrods that I watch on the youpoop seems like magic. Thanks fro sharing.
Great video. I love suspension geometry… I built a frame for my Coyote swapped 1950 Ford Sedan. 4Link with Mustang II front suspension. I reinforced the rockers and kinda did the unibody style. I’m using coilovers and running 4” of ground clearance.
I enjoyed and did learn more as i am doing a bit of research for a possible build. Paul you seem to be a chill genuine guy and for that I thank you. Brandon your craft shows to be above standard. hope to and looking to speak with you soon.
Great video, great build, great suspension design. FYI from an old timer, 55mph didn't come around until the '70s, before that most highways were 70mph. And States like Nevada and Montana didn't even care how fast you went on the open roads!
It’s kinda funny how long it took the custom car builders to really start paying attention to standard concepts like setting bump steer, anti dive, roll centers, proper caster / camber settings. Still fairly primitive in understanding and implementation. I mean farmers have learned to grasp it in dirt racing. I see a lot of builders failing to understand dynamic caster camber curves, pin inclination, motion arm ratios, dynamic roll corners and weight transfer. Nascar and racers use panhard bars because we leverage the dynamic roll center changes as well as the loading and unloading of the RR. Something critical on circle track racing. 1/8 lateral movement is actually a lot on a street car going straight as well as the four bar locations. Also there’s nearly no/ zero net gain with bump steer. Adding scrub for stability isn’t really a logical or factual concept and is just an old fairy tail. The issue is that it’s nearly impossible to have a zero bump on both rebound and compression which is especially true for any offset style chassis. The chassis shown in the video has very little caster gain but this is something 99% of chassis experts fail to understand. I’m betting these guys never bumped that wheel and plotted the caster camber curves.
So, I’ve got a 64 with full Ride Tech front, I’m having some issues and this is fantastic to watch and reinforce what I’m saying to my fab guy, I’d love to Unibody mine… Thank you for sharing your knowledge Good luck
Awesome vid, great info, always hard to find info on how to design your own front end with things like where to start, where everything should be mounted and setup, roll centers, etc so much appreciated for the info you's have shared in the vid 👍
I didn’t even realize that it was a convertible impala. Looked like a K5 with a trunk. But that is a very nice detailed vehicle. Can’t wait to see more videos of it during the build process.
Man! I really appreciate this video! I have been so set on RS for my next build. But I really like the genuine spirit and openness these guys have. I just have to figure out what I want to build. My ‘37 GMC COE OR….❤❤❤❤
Very informative video, and it highlights your attention to detail. I'm pretty sure I'll never be able to afford one of your builds, but this info helps us guys that will end up building our own.
Wow Thank You for this video!!! This Really reinforces my ideas behind the chassis I'm building for a friends S-10, Although I used the original front suspension from the firewall back is fabricated. It will also be unibody in the cab. It will have a full air ride suspension and a 4 link rear suspension. Again Thankyou for this. !!!!!!!!
This kind of information is out there but most people don’t understand it anyway . Have built several chassis since 70’s , the first book I read on suspension was Herb Adam’s , what a great place to start. ❤❤ I subscribed to watch future information ❤❤
Fantastic video. I love seeing these techniques. I've always been curious to see how these methods can be applied in other applications like imports or hell even an EV since the box frame looks like it could hold a battery pack like a skateboard platform on a production EV does.
Love all the work and agree with everything you covered…one problem stood out lol… next time hide the seam of the frame tubing to the inside, it doesn’t cover with paint or powder! 😜😊
As a you g filipino who plans to build his own owners type jeep some day, this video is very important specially for the type of application I want to place my jeep in.
I love suspension and chassis stuff, great video! I do question the slots and holes you put in the K-member though. If that car gets driven much, those are just begging to pick up all sorts of dirt, sludge, debris, etc from the road and in turn holding moisture in those spots down the line.
Interesting to see technology on frame, chassis, and body pan…. That you are using….. and is still proving itself from many years ago…….and started with a man named Dr. Fergon Porsche and how his floor pan frame rail, incorporated design, and a few years later independent suspension travel,and linked bars are still important today….
I'm very interested to see an NVH evaluation of this when it's complete. These old cars rely on a lot of frame twist, soft bushings, and tire sidewall to keep them comfortable. That's all gone now. I hope it works!
Amazing! Thank you "Old Anvil TV" for sharing this very informative video. What you are saying makes a lot sense & brilliant in chasis square & alignments. Do you do body strengthening, framing, air shocks of Classic Japanese cars like Datsun 240 K GL models, Classic Jagua and Classic Range Rovers? I would like to one day have my Classic cars upgraded to muscle cars with ice and one of each Classic models be upgraded and converted into battery electric or hydrogen ice. May I know where your workshop is located? Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
@@oldanvilspeedshopBadass man! I’m currently getting my Gbody chassis done and it is not cheap getting it done by a shop lol… I want to learn how to do this type of work because I have lots of interest in this type of work and also so I can fab up some frames myself lol…Hopefully I can learn it one day!
We use 1.25" od x .120 wall on the lower and 1.0" x .120 on the upper. Only down side is the inside tire moves out more at the top with added caster. This could cause interference with the fender.
Great info! not enough people out there talking about how to properly build suspension. Too many universal kits and wherever it fits type of recommendations 🍻
Spent 50 years in the automotive/heavy truck industry, mostly on the manufacturing side. I am still waiting to hear about any engineering. Saw some fabricating, got a sales talk, saw some creative use of existing technology that others engineered, a clumsy and sophomoric description of caster, but nothing an engineer would be saying. I am not an engineer but at least I would want to know the section modulus and RBM of the frame (especially in the cross-sectional area you welded in the exhaust pass-through) as well as how you determined the final Ackerman Angle. Did you at least do a non-destructive stress coat test series? Again, I saw no engineering.
Great video! Just wondering what kind of off-set of front rims do you run? Actually better question is What kind of "Scrub Radius" is calculated with all the modifications?
We are sure there could be some discussion over this one! We single bevel and butt weld our joints using GTAW (Tig). We make sure that our joints are mitered so that the weld is actually much larger than the cross sectional area of the tube itself. A full penetration weld is always stronger than the base material. Our guys are make certifiable welds per AWS so we feel very confident about them. However, if you do not feel confident about your weld quality a backing plate or an additional plate is not a bad idea.
@@oldanvilspeedshop Awesome, thanks for the reply! I'm going to be extra cautious and add some inner plates to my frame build. My welding is just ok so I'll spend a little extra time smoothing some plug welds just for peace of mind.
Appreciate the info. I'm gonna build a mandrel bend 2x4 frame for my 67 c10. Thought about making the whole thing uni body. I dont see a purpose of making the cab and bed removable.
I learned that tou guys are basically making unibody conversions, awesome! My only question is why not go around to you instead of what seems to be the aftermarket industry standard square tube?
I have a 60 Ford Ranch Wagon , I am going to Air bag it can you suggest a supplier for the air sleeves for the rear and air bags for the front . Very informative video, I loved all the information coming through I found myself flat out with a pen writing things down
I notice a lot of bad customization chop companies on RU-vid that run into problems from poor planning and create dangerous cars. You guys planned it out m, engineering the ease of assembly and designed detail clean.
Great video, about those spindles: how much pin inclination / KPI are those built with? And what will Your scrub radius bee with the rims/tires You choos?
Have you guys considered parametric design and simulation in CAD? I use Fusion 360 to model things out like this after doing my 3D scans of the existing space and then use movement simulation to check clearance and see if it binds up at all... super handy and saves a lot of time and reduces the amount of work I have to do later.
