I'll agree with that. Not often you see people who have a genuine interest in a craft after decades of toil. I say that as a Qualified chippy of some 40yrs nearly.
Top upload by Andy giving his adviceon starter kits and how he thinks it should be done no cutting weakening the wall ! The weather struck pointing is amazing workmanship by Andy always good helpful tips when watching cheers for the upload 🍻
Our gaffer used to make us cut the cavity out and tooth everything in as if the extension was a continuation of the original house, which is the only proper way of doing it. If you built a house you wouldn't build a flank straight through then just stick the offshot on it. It takes time but if is the correct way.
Exactly ,but generally toothing isnt allowed anymore because of differential movement especially if clay is involved but yes it was the norm in the 70s and 80s 👍
Andy, With reference to that `wall starter` detail. We always used to cut out the wall, and expose the cavity and tooth - in the new work to the existing. ( I appreciate you know this - you probably done a few...!!! ) Then along comes the issue of different sizing, metric to imperial bricks, and different rates of ground movement & settlement between old and new work - so wall - starter systems come along to overcome that particular issue. This idea of cutting a vertical slot to a depth of 50mm (and in some cases, 100mm) and inserting a vertical D.P.C seems a tad overkill. I suspect this has come about from areas of the country with a high driving rain index (coastal areas as you mentioned) but is there really that much moisture penetrating the cavity walling - and migrating across the juncture between old and new...?? I had a similar discussion recently about opening up the cavity in a similar scenario to achieve continuity of the cavity insulation (between old and new) and to prevent cold bridging...! When I queried this - I never got a satisfactory reply. Ideas, concepts and details evolve and change I suppose - trouble is we have been around too long and tend to get cynical about some of the new thinking on these matters. Tell Damon, to wear a mask when using a "spinner" as Silicosis is a slow and horrid death. The pointing looks "Pukka" mate... P-U-B...?
Hi Andy, as a Time served Carpenter & Joiner the straight edge with the magnet for the 2 knives for pointing is genius............ Something relaxing/Therapeutic about watching a quality tradesman creating something that will still be around long after we have moved on. You deserve far more subscriptions matey. All the best Adrian.
I was always thought if you are building of an existing house/ building it should be a movement joint so instead of a wall starter to use Lshaped tie with plastic sleeve. Then the joint is masticed . I've also just stuck up a wall starter and built away with know one saying a thing as its what they wanted. What I've noticed in the last say 10 years is a massive array of changes and so many different ways to do a simple thing. Great work by the way i love your content.
@@DylanGSXR Depends what's on the drawing I suppose and local BC. 90% of the time we do it with a wall starter but I agree it should be a mastic joint but builders just can't be bothered so we do it like this and no one ever questions it.
Ive just built a small single story extension and first thing i asked was cutting in a vertical damp as i too dont agree with it and never have...I tell them you are effectively weakening the strongest part of the house (The corner) just to slot a bit of damp in ..Anyway wouldnt have it so i just cut around 50mm just enough to slot it in and gob it up..Took pictures and thats it....Were up in west yorkshire and every extension ive done the inspectors pretty much insist on it...
I see the dpc behind the wall starters on the corner at 1:09 ...I was told to cut a channel in the cavity and put dpc in the cut rather than behind the starter kit but there you'd have to cut into both sides of a corner which isn't good practice .
Properly done , the times I’ve seen people do that freehand without a Frenchman and rail 🙄 when I got my kit out they wondered what I was at 😂 people just haven’t got the level of skill anymore 🙄
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 thing is Andy ,when I was at college which is 22 years ago. They taught you to do it freehand but because I worked with my dad I’d already done that kind of thing with him, so I kinda knew most of the pointing finishes but everyone passed no matter what, which is one of the problems o think 🤔
Lovely Andy, I am having Friday off too, just got to pick up some cash, that's not work. It was worth the video just to see the Mark ll derby board. I was going to have a day off but now I have got to build a derby with a magnet on it, genius. I love the straight Frenchman. I was only ever shown the hooked type, I still have the one I made as a kid. I always thought the hook teared at the pointing. Now I will make a straight one. Is that your idea or was it passed down via and old boy. One more thing, consistent 10mm perps, what a novel idea in this modern slashing world. Just a joy for this grumpy old trowel to see.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 Thanks for sharing Andy. Maybe when you do the tuck pointing video you can show us. Looking forward to that, a friend of mine has some tuck pointing to do and he has a guy coming to do it. I will have a day off and go and have a look. Nearly pub time so I will let you go!
I suppose most tradesmen could recreate that sort of pointing over a small area, but to keep the precision and quality on every joint is no easy task. Looks pin point everywhere.
Hey Andy recently been asked to lap a gas membrane on an extension I’m building onto the house DPM taped and sealed…I phoned the architect and asked how I was supposed to do that without undermining the house he said do it in hit and miss sections all the way along the back of the build…found out the original house doesn’t even have a gas membrane…seems they don’t care about weakening buildings anymore as long as there is not a chance of radon gas in your new extension 🤷🏼♂️
@bigmobsy2104 Were you building in Aberdeen or Cornwall...? That Architect certainly did not do his "due-diligence" checks on that property before asking you to do that. The last radon barrier I did we turned it up the existing wall face and finished it with a termination bar detail. All a pointless detail really unless your building new. That detail your Architect gave you is ridiculous, lots of unnecessary work - and the cost to the client...F.F.S
@@martin2466 was a job in Scotland and to be fair there was a few pits in the area at one time but the house not having one and then asking for one in the extension to me was completely bewildering….in theory the architects design is relying on the original house having DPM/radon barrier hanging out enough to get it taped onto which as you know isn’t always going to be the case
@@bigmobsy2104 Thank you for the Clarification, I guessed that you may have been working in Scotland. It just seems to get harder and more complicated to build anything these days, especially with all the `Net Zero` & "Future Homes" legislation about to come into force....! I appreciate your reply. Keep grinding mate - and stay safe. 😁👍👍
Tell you what Andy! You’re rather good at that bricklaying stuff! You should make a career out of it and even make some videos and stick them on the ol’ RU-vid!! 😂
Hello andy mate that struck pointing looks awesome mate love that ❤💯👌👊 someone may have alsked already but what ratio are you useing for that pointing mate ? And do you think this kind of pointing would work with a pointing gun ? Kind regards rob 👊
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 ahh right i see. Say If you didnt have silver sand and still wanted a wight joint and added hydrated lime to it. Would it become to stong a mix? So you'd have a 5:1:1 ? "Just to get the couler i mean" Do you know a good substitute mixes 🤔 Sorry mate im being specific 🙈🤣
Great video, I’ve done a bit of weather struck but didn’t come out as well as this. Hadn’t thought of using silver sand though. Would you say 6:1:1 would work as a pointing mix with silver sand ? Also makes all the difference having nice tight joints to do it on. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
I don't use Hydrated Lime in cement mixes as I have had problems with hairline cracking with it, 5 and1 is best with an enhanced cement like Mastercrete, you only need Silver sand if you want a white mix.
No, I've had problems with crazing using Hydrated Lime to cement mixes for pointing, a good enhanced cement like Mastercrete works well for me. Using silver sand and white cement I add a small amount of SBR.
I'm on a site just started showhouse had a little disagreement about what minimum a 3 quarter should be the showhome is timber frame and I'm restricted to what I can do I have put 150mm against the window never had a problem before what's your opinion?
hi andy, i see you are wearing the copper bracelet, they really do work" a master job as normal, young brickies take note, its not just crash bang wallop
Ive used NHL 3.5, 3 and one mix with building sand for 25 years with no problems or comebacks though this could be altered in extremely exposed areas or walls with very soft bricks.Thats for lime mortar for sand and cement 5 and 1 with an enhanced cement, some use hydrated lime in the mix but ive always had problems with cracking using it never a problem with Mastercrete or similar.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 sound got an extremely old old outbuilding 1800’s . Just need the correct shade to match. That result for ol Mahoney brickwork of 187 out of 440 is tight as fuck.
