well your definatly patient .. I usually scrap boats like that for future repairs . let me tell you finally you're building these boats rite, congrats 🎊
Good video you really did a lot work to have to repair the last owners very crappy fi it projects on the boat however you have finally gotten past the hardest work and now you’re on your way to customizing your 16ft boat. Great job
Have you heard of, or tried, muggy weld's super alloy 5. You said with the aluminum brazing rod you used, that you shouldnt grind or sand it down. I have some of the super alloy 5 myself but havent been able to use it, due to lack of a hot enough torch. They say that super alloy 5 can be grinded, sanded, polished or have anything else done to it that you'd do to the base metal. Anyway something worth checking out, keep up the great videos!
I had a friend Brave some holes on the bottom of his boat 2 years ago and he runs the hell out of it uses it for Hunting Fishing and pleasure pulling tubes he uses at least 50 times a year and it's still holding up great and it was a 20 + inch crack that you can stick your fingers in still good to this day
Michael Lopez - try asking a sign company where they get their building materials from, or a fiberglass shop. it's called expandable foam boards or just PVC boards. It comes in different thickness half inch three-quarter excetera. I'm sure you could order it from Lowe's or Home Depot or whatever it's not necessarily something they would have in stock at most stores, it's a specialty item and 4' by 8' sheet is quite costly but it's a hundred percent waterproof and just as durable and easy to work with as plywood. I have some extra sheets of lexan laying in my garage I plan on using in a similar way a fire ant fishing built his boat for the front deck. I like the Lexon because it's clear and I could install an LED light on the front and it'll illuminate the entire Cabinetry. I'm also Rhino linering inside the hall a couple inches above the waterline, I would love to Rhino line the entire boat but to do so is above by economical means at this point. But it would be dope.
yo im in arizona too. I just traded my kayak for a 12 ft v hull jon boat. it seems il have to re-rivet the whole thing. The side of the boat.. edges, where the water line is there are cracks, what if i put a piece of aluminum sheet to the shape of the edge on the inside of the boat and sealed it with 5200 marine seal, then jb welded the out side... do you this that would suffice.?
I appreciate your candor 1/2 way through when reflected on the experience. I would recommend moving clips like that to the front of videos. Because to be honest, had I been closer to my computer I would've stopped the video when you were insulting the previous owner. We've all been novices at one point and I remember a year or so ago I saw your first build (which you admit was full of mistakes). I hope this doesn't across judgmental. You made right with it and voiced frustrations constructively. I am planning my first build and I appreciate your content a lot. I know I'll make mistakes but I'm sure I'd would make more mistakes had I not found your content. Great lessons.
Michael Lopez I see, that makes sense. I'm not a subscriber and haven't seen the other vids on it, so I appreciate the context. Either way your frustration is justified dealing with massive repairs. As an outsider I was a initially put off, but I see your point. thanks for responding, and again thanks for the content.
Bro, you should look into/consider putting Steel Flex original or steelflex super slick on the bottom of your jon. It's a two part epoxy paint that makes loading/unloading much easier, and it also will seal up any tiny slow leaks. on my personal jon I'm putting it on the bottom and coat it on the internal seams.
This is my first resto/build I will side with dislike of J/B Weld/Filler when map gas& brazing rods are readily available, J/B Weld & Fillers are band-aids at the very best.
