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I think you should really title the video as gasless flux cored as MIG is different. You'd never get me crawling under a car/trailer without a better support and chocking the wheels. Wood could be an option but not a rough pile of fire wood. Glad you survived and it's your life so good luck to you. Points for keeping the guards on the grinders!
Thanks for watching! Yeah a jack stand would be much better but I gotta work with what I have. The wood is supporting only one corner so if it did fail the trailer would rest on the hub where I was which would leave enough clearance that I wouldn’t get squished.
@@donsmith9081 I have one.... it's a black plastic cone which is fucking useless. The contact tip sticks out past it and arcs out if you touch the material. I run the regular nozzle because you can drag it and not arc out.
@@JTwelder. It takes a little to get used to but is well worth it. You can get in close on a fillet weld and see where you are going, that’s why they make them. Consider it like stick welding but ten times easier. Also the closer you are the hotter the weld and that can be important when using a 110V machine. I have been using one for years. Try it again, I think you might like it.
@@donsmith9081 yes...that ease of visualization and heat manipulation is the big benefit. dragging the weld without seeing the puddle is definitely not a pro move.
you should only ever weld with a chassis, not accross it as when it fails, you end up with a 'plug' which comes out, exactly like what happened here. the whole square welded area came out
Yeah man your 100% right also the same applies even more to boom sections on heavy equipment. In this scenario the trailer just needed a quick fix to be on the road the next day and neither me or the owner had the proper size material to brace the frame length wise. They also got the trailer for free and doing a proper frame brace would cost over $500 so it's not practical. The original repair was done with cold hard wire mig that was barely fused and it lasted 2 years so I'm sure my repair will outlast the life of the trailer.
Hi there, i really needs some advise from you. I have a caravan and the weekend the chassis broke right through. On the nose side just in front of the shock,spring or what ever you cal it. Can it be repaired. I was told it cannot be repaired. I must get rid of my van. Some how im not believing him. Please advise me if this is true. Can it be repaired.
I would recommend bringing it to a welder and seeing if they'll do it. It's doable Depending on how bad it's corroded. If the chassis is completely rotten then it can't be fixed but if it's just broken and not rotten it definitely can be repaired. Good luck
[Amps * Volts = Watts] You'll need to locate the input power specs for your machine (owners manual or sticker on back with duty cycle) as each can vary widely between MFGs and by welding type. You're looking specifically for the max input amp draw for the machine at the given voltage. For example, the Lincoln Easy-MIG 140 is {generically} rated for 20A@ 120V and 20% duty cycle on their site. I'd still check the sticker to be 100% sure since they're not as specific as some other MFGs. That said, 20a * 120v = 2400W. Add a 25% margin just to be safe (2400 * 1.25 = 3000w). The "continuous/running watts' of your generator should then meet or exceed that number (3000w). I grabbed a cheap multi-process Amico Mig140GS to keep handy on off-road trips. Amico's specs are a bit more specific. At 115v it's rated 27.1a (MIG) | 19.9 (TIG) | 34.2 (MMA). At 230v it's rated 20.9 (MIG) | 15.6 (TIG) | 25.5 (MMA). So for mine to run fully on 110/120 Mig I'd need [27.1a * 115v = 3117w * 1.25 = ~3896w] a 4K generator (also what Amico recommends in the owner manual). For 230, I'd need a 6K generator [20.9a * 230v = 4807w * 1.25 = ~6008w].
Short answer why its not a full frame brace is pretty obvious (money). Your 100% right about the frame needing to properly be braced to have it repaired properly. Here's why I didn't do that. 1. Neither me or the customer had the proper material on hand to do a full frame brace and they needed the trailer back asap to do a delivery. 2. It wouldn't be financially viable to do a frame brace. Steel is way up in price, closest steel supplier is almost a hour away and gas is at $2 per litre, the job would of taken much more time which obviously raises the cost. Also they were given the trailer for free so they really weren't looking to spend money on it. 3. The entire frame of the trailer is rotten so why spend a fuck ton of money fixing just one spot to have it break on another area a few months later 4. The same spring bracket broke out of the frame in the exact same spot two years before and the owner welded it back in himself in the rain with a mig welder set way too cold leaving a poorly fused weld......and it lasted another 2 YEARS before braking again. 5. The repair I did will easily outlast the life of the trailer. 6. They bought a brand new bigger enclosed trailer about 2 months after this repair so the one in this video is currently a spare. So overall if this was a heavy duty trailer that hauls large loads I would refuse the job unless the customer agreed to doing a proper brace. Obviously in this scenario This repair was perfectly fine. If your doing jobs for customers you have to cater to their needs not your own or else you'll never have any customers. You start refusing work once the customer refuses to spend money to do a repair that is adequate in your mind.
@@JTwelder. Dont take jobs that you can't do properly. Your liability insurance (if you have it) isn't any good if you let a trailer go knowing that you didn't fix it right. If it's "not financially viable to do a frame brace", then you're not charging enough. A couple pieces of 3/16 plate aren't that expensive, I have tons of that laying around that's already been paid for by other jobs.
