I am from germany and painted my car my self after looking your Chanel for month...it was long and hard work for me but came out great!Tanks for all your helpfull videos!!👍👍
Ohhh God! I have always seen big amount of pads and step polish in many other videos. It'a pleasure to see your video with only one polish and one pad. Great! I loved it
you are definitely DA MAN!!!! im a wrench ,, but im currently hooking up ride for my daughter and im learning so much from you vids my man.. thank you sir!
Great vid Brian I hate buffing too thank god for 2000/3000/8000 soft pads makes life so much easier :) we can all learn from these keep them coming buddy :)
Years ago I bought the Super Buff System that was very popular. Sad to say, I had one of the defective ones that blew up will I was using it. 30 plus years later, some schrapnell still pops up in my face, arms and chest. Ill never forget that day
Great video as always! Huge fan of your work. Particularly this video really helps. As a self employed guy that thrives for quality work but also needs to get cars out the quickest way possible, this will definitely do the trick. As you said, I hate buffing lol very time consuming to say the least. 1 point I want to cover though, whenever I do use 2000 or anything below that I does create a lot of “pigtails” which in return makes it very difficult to buff & get rid of. Is this because Im using it wet cause I noticed you sanding it dry. I also don’t have that purple pad at the beginning of your DA, only the interface pad. I personally think the interface bad causes those pigtails since the 2000 grit sandpaper is so thin the aggressiveness of the sticking portion of the pad actually makes contact with the paint. Hope im making sense here & sorry for the long comment but if you or anyone could help me with this I will surely appreciate it. Thank you!
Love the videos.Little tip, if you sand with 2000 grit you can flip the paper on the back and sand.What that does is tales 70 percent of the marring out.Then easier to polish out.
I would use 5000 on darker colors. For lighter colors this process works just fine but you’re right. Those extra steps will make buffing easier. Without the interface pad it does have more of a cut, but the cut is more aggressive. Good tip!
Another great video THANKYOU Those compound specks are a nightmare to remove-masking is a must ! I used same system on stainless mirrors -came out nice
i just learned some more,,until this video i use to wet sand,,1000,,,then 3000,,than buff,,,,,and i worked long and hard to get a good finish,,,im going to get some 5000 and 8000 and try it,,,,if i can save time thats money saveing,,,,,like you say,,,donnt over think it ,its only paint,,,,thank you
Have you tried using3000 5000, with wTer then 8000 with compound. Leaves the paint more refined then just the grit by itself. Just a little bit of compound. You can practicality buff with the DA
Well I should do a video on this …The trials and tribulations of sanding fresh clear coat paint!!! Not bad but not perfect info. Just one comment about pigtails ..The first cut with 2000 for me is the most cautious..I spray glasurit 230 clear which always cures soft ..I also spray a lot of black base coat on mostly older models which means big Lincoln’s ..Lol ..It took me a few years to fully understand what I was doing especially learning on soft black paint :.What a stressful nightmare of a time !!! Nothing worse than black and seeing a pigtail on your finish polish …With that said keep your 2000 grit and 3000 super clean at all times .It is so important to wipe your abrasive disc and your work area followed by air blow gun.. also the orbit of your sander is a huge factor to based on my 30 yrs experience of failures and wins .. use a new 2.5 /3.0 or 3/32 for you non metric people lol🤗 the residue buildup is far greater than people realize.Smaller orbit means slower cut ,,,smaller scratches ..Slower build up of residue ..just my 2cents and experience.. Thanks for reading
Hey cool Video but i have a problem, maybe you can help me. I tried to sand out the orangepeel out of my black two layer painted car hood. Some informations about my procedure: 1. orbitalsander with 5mm throw 2. soft interface pads 3. p2000 sanding discs 4. trizact 3000 5. trizact 6000 6. Buffing with Mirka polarshine 20 coarse and hard pad 7. buffing with Mirka polarshine 10 and soft pad I used much time to sand with each grid to eliminate the sanding marks from the coarser grid before. And i tried to work as clean as possible...i was paying much attention to clean the paper to prevent deep pigtail scratches...once i had them and i couldnt eliminate them again. So but the result is that overall on the complete surface remain fine sanding "swirls" like pigtails but not only on some lines. Once i had pigtails, they where visible from almost 1meter far away from the surface, but they were only one some lines located. The sanding marks now are on the whole sanded surface...they are not as deep as pigtails but nevertheless hard to remove with buffing... can anyone help me? Thanks... Is it really the 5mm orbital sander?
@@hirsch4650 first thing what polishers are you using? You will need a rotary polisher. I used to encounter the same problem using DA polisher. DA just wont works in heavy cut.
@@ntonytay hey i used a rotary polisher but it took a very long time to remove these sanding marks…i used s hard foam pad for cutting, should i have used a wool pad instead for cutting?
Is the price of saving time, stripping your clear coat with sand paper and reducing your paint UV protection!? Did you measure how many microns have you lost? Also aren’t you worried about sanding right over that edge on the hood? I feel like cutting with the orange pad first then finishing with the purple is a safer option!! But I might be wrong, the paint thickness needs to me measured to show that method is safe
Great video!! Exactly what I was looking for. Just wondering how long you wait before wet sanding and polishing? I sprayed the clear about a week ago and at first the paint was very soft but now it’s hardened a bit. Is it safe to wet sand? All the best!
Awesome! Learning new things once again. Thanks! I do have a question for you guys. I am having a hard time wrapping my head around shelling out the $$$$ for the 3m trizact discs/polish/pads. Is there a place I can get these products without breaking the bank? Thanks in advance!
Hey! All prices generally will be the same. You have to think about it as a time save. The products really do help move things along and also provide an awesome finish. I’m a firm believer that you’re only as good as the materials and products you’re working with.
i only trust this dude ... for painting hes the god ... i looked threw i knew this man had onna these .. on paint buffing.. i need this ok back to watching 😆
Why is it necessary to use an electric polisher for compounding instead of a pneumatic DA like for sanding? Thanks again for another amazing video; I'm learning so much!
I struggled with getting sanding “pigtails” even with an interface pad with 1500-2000-3000. Suggestions? Cleaned surface, cleaned sandpaper constantly.
Do you remember how many 3k and 8k pads were consumed on that hood? If I remember right, you only get 15 per box and they're not cheap. But time is money too. And it looked like those pads made some fast work of that hood!
@@PaintSociety Thanks for the reply! I appreciate it! I don't do much painting anymore. In fact back when I did, the 8k disc didn't even exist. I used to spend an entire week buffing a complete!
You need to look into getting a “Flex PE14” rotary. Instead of using that big, bulky, heavy Makita. It will make the job easier. I myself have always used a Makita until I got the Flex PE14 & fell in love with it. The Flex PE14 is way lighter, slimmer & quieter then that Makita
just in time with this video. i will be cutting some orange peel and sags and buffing my fresh paint starting tomorrow through this week. so, everything you've done to this car, does it all apply to a Limco Supreme s.s urethane fresh paint job , by the time i get to this point the paint will be on 5 whole days.
Great videos can you recommend any other any other products I used the green fast cut compound I brought very expensive I got on really well with that 3m compound Keep up the great work as I'm getting good feedback from you
Yes sir.. I love that festool denibber. I always wanted to try the 3m denibber but tech support in my area is weak these days. 3m rep is spread a little too thin
Good Day, your videos are great . However I have a little problem as I am recently new to the paint spraying industry. I recently respected my car in a effort to make it look good so I can sell it . However after trying to wet sand and buff it I am left with white skids/mark on the car .
How about doing this on a one part polyurethane marine paint (Pettit EzPoxy to be specific). I have painted a t top for my boat and want to get the finish perfect. I understand I will be sanding the color coats but i would like to think I have enough color coats on the t top. Also suggestions for doing this process on the pipe section. It is obvious much different than the hood of a car, and looking for any tips or tricks
Have you tried the Mirka sand paper in comparison to 3m? Haven’t tried it myself but getting mixed responses from people saying mirka paper is junk. Any thoughts..
Great videos, all of them. I am painting an old car that was my Dad's. I am building it in honor of him. Your videos have been a great help to me getting this car painted. I have a question. I finished the clear coat paint job about a month ago, as it dried it ended up with some pretty significant orange peel. I have tried 1500 grit with the interface pad on my DA and it is not cutting it hardly at all. I used top quality clear and sandpapers. My question is, should i try 600? What would you recommend? Thank You and keep up the great work!
I'm learning too so I'm not 100% quite yet, so this is just a brainstorm, but maybe the orange peel came from when you were spraying the clear? I feel like 600 might end up being too much, but maybe 800-1000ish to cut through the clear coat more, like what he did up above, then thoroughly wash it, tack-rag it, and if need be another quick respray of clear, with some microfiber wipe downs in between coats after they dry? Again, just a quick brainstorm, I'm doing something very similar with my late grandfather's old Duster!
do you sand & buff only for the orange peel & dusty area? or do you sand & buff for the whole car? when painting, after clear coat, do sand & buff is a must?
Beyond awesome job! Always it's a really joy watching your most amazing videos. Brian, about your perfectionism regarding details and actually your whole job, I'm speechless. Im a perfectionist myself and that's the reason I easily recognized and stick with you. In my book , no doubt, you're absolutely all the way around NUMBER ONE what I'll be always interesting to look and fallow your precious advises. Many blessings to you from my bottom of my hearth! I have no words to thanks God enough by heaving you around as a part of this word. You should start a Painting Academy website where you should be the dean. Congrats regarding your most amazing jobs from entire internet !!!
Hey i tried sanding the hood of my car like this and i have many pigtails in my hood now and it is difficult to polish... this is the way i tried: 1. sanding with 3m p1500 dry 2. Trizact p3000 wet 3. Polishing with exzenter machine and hardpad and then a soft one (Sonax EX 04 06 Polishing Compound) I didn't use any interface pads for sanding... I sanded with using a vacuum cleaner for the p1500...but the sandpaper clogged fast... What was my failure? And how can i fix it now...?
sand wet. The disk is getting clogged from build up finish on the surface. OR you can stop more often and clean the surface of the disk with a nylon shoe brush
Hey Brian!! I have issues with my 3m p1500 getting loaded up with specs of clear in it.. I'm using it on a DA sander on a interface pad, sanding dry.. do you know what I'm doing wrong to clog my paper? Thanks!
Brian, Is the disc pad a 3M 05778? BTW, I wish I've seen your videos before buying the 3M product with the three steps and the foam pads. Live and learn.
