For more information on setting the best tyre pressure for you including recommended tyre pressures for narrower tyres, head to 👉 www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/road-bike-tyre-pressure/
This was interesting. My students and I (I'm a physics instructor) did an experiment that involved varying tire pressure and measuring the time to descend a hill (about 1 km) from a standing start. We then repeated the test for different rider weights and graphed the results. The hill had quite smooth tarmac. Our results indicated that the recommended tire pressures given in this video are too low. Granted, riding comfort was not a criteria for our experiment and again, the tarmac was smooth. Based on our data, if you are lucky enough to ride on very well maintained roads or bike lanes, are running 25 mm tires (Continental 5000) and are looking for the best performance irrespective of comfort, 100 psi is a good choice.
I'm surprised too, mostly because bicyclerollingresistance.com proves that every single tested road tyre has a lower rolling resistance at 8.3 bars than at 6.9 bars. It doesn't make sense to me for perfectly smooth roads (I do understand it for bumpy roads, gravel and off-road)
@@mrtnknrr Don't forget that bicyclerollingresistance.com conducts its testing on steel drums - while it's great resource, not all of the results will actually translate into the real world... Unless you ride on steel roads, of course! 🚄🚴🏻♀️🕺
Hi, as mentioned in the video, the exact optimum pressure will vary depending on a number of factors, and 100psi may be just right for the right roads/tyres/rider/etc. But, modern testing suggests it's also better to err on the side of too low rather than too high, so if you don't have perfectly smooth roads to ride on, it's usually better to be conservative and not go too high. Thanks for watching! 🤝
Because tire manufacturers are smart enough that they know that for middleageded obeese but moneystrong cyclists, comfort trumps everything. And they test the wrong ways.
I’m 101kg and I’m running a set of 28mm tubeless at 67 front and rear, thats according to mavic’s website/app. Sram do their own tyre pressure calculator too. My 25mm tubeless I’m run 77rear, 72 front.
I'm 75kg on a 10kg road bike running 700x23C continental GP500S and stick to 90-100psi. If I have less than 80psi then cornering feels vague and spongy which I don't like. Also, I get pinch flats even at 100psi during my suburban commute if I hit unseen debris or potholes. Even going tubeless, lower pressure potentially increases the chance of rim damage.
yes, you need a wider (higher) tire with wide rims to have enough cushion and sidewall support for lower pressures. i run my 25mm tires on 15c internal rims at around 6.5 bar (95 psi) to avoid hat spongy feeling and risk of pinchflat/rim strikes on unforseen potholes or debris. after switching to 32mm tubeless tires on 25c wide rims i was able to run basically half those pressures fine. i now use around 3.25bar (45psi) front and 3.6bar (55 psi) rear. the bike feels planted and safe without becoming spongy, speeds stayed the same, there is enough volume/cushion for unforseen potholes and the bike is sooooo much more comfortable. i would even say overall speeds improved because you do not wear down on longer journeys with bad pavement. perfect.
Different stroke for different riders, I ride at 100 psi on the on the road back wheel and 90 psi at the front wheel on my tubular set up works for me. 25c
I weigh 69kg and using a Kinesis GTD road bike with carbon 50mm rims. Using continental GP5000 tubeless 32c which actually come up at 31c and I inflate to 60psi. Feels really good and a good balance. For UK roads getting worse I’m also using a redshift shockstop stem to iron out the road buzz. Im hoping this reduces fatigue over longer distances
I ride Pirelli's, so I'm using their baseline figures - but tweaking a bit with certain parameters (psi down slightly for comfort, up slightly with narrower rims, to stop lightbulb effect, etc) So, I'm on Race 28's, 19mm Mavic rims, 5'10", 73kg, crappy Surrey roads - it all adds up to 82 front, 87 rear. Works perfectly.
Almost! The position of the hoods ends up being around 24cm in width. You can read more about these particular bars here 👉 www.bikeradar.com/features/first-look-friday/nopinz-time-trial-kit/
I’m riding at around 100-110 psi. The road I’m on is made for road bikes. When I’m in city streets, I ride 80-90psi. When it’s raining I may go down to 70psi
12 stone, 28mm tyres, 60 psi and or 4.1 bar. Pirelli P Zero white, looking for red lettering the soft compound tyres like in F1. Waiting on my new Zipp 303 firecrest wheels and dropping TP to around 50psi or 3.8 bar. My average speed over 20 miles is quicker this year , like 5 minutes quicker then last yr at 70psi or however bars that equals.
I work as a deliveroo rider in the UK and I'm on a hybrid bike (not electric, though I know this may come as a surprise). Most of the tutorials and tips and tricks related to cycling are directed towards road bikes. Does anyone know what would be a good tire pressure on a hybrid bike? PS: not sure if this is relevant info but I have puncture resistant tires which are harder than regular tires
For my giant TCR I ride perelli p zero 26 tubeless on hookless wheels. I weight 85kg and normally run them at 65psi. Not sure if that’s good as I’m new to tubeless??
Lower pressure=more traction is a complete myth. lower pressure not only increses risk of pinch flats, but also debris flats , and not insignificantly.
No camera weirdness here! Simon loves going faster for the same effort and is trying out this narrower handlebar. You can read more about these particular bars here 👉 www.bikeradar.com/features/first-look-friday/nopinz-time-trial-kit/
Pirelli's pressure charts are unreliable, was running tubeless Cinturato 32mm on 20mm wide rim at max allowed 5 BAR(72psi) according to their tubeless charts for my weight. After moving to 3 BAR(43 psi) I realized how big of a mistake I was making before, can't recognize my bike anymore, so much smoother but also feels faster rolling, grip on gravel is day and night difference.
I’m enjoying the bike so far ru-vid.comUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
You say so much right.. but then inextricably, get other things TOTALLY wrong.. like at 1:30 you talk about lower tire pressure leading to too much friction between tire and the road?? This doesn't make any sense.. tires ROLL the don't drag so friction between the tire and the road doesn't slow you down.. so in fact it's a good, desirable thing to maximize.. it's usually call grip... prevents you from sliding out in corners, or tires spinning when accelerating hard or sliding when trying to stopping quickly.. lots of other head scratchers like this throughout 🤔
Watched your video again and realized you don't really have a good understanding of how/why vibration loses work. Ask yourself this question.. when you are riding over a bumpy or textured road and you feel the vibration in your body.. it takes energy to vibrate your body.. so where does the energy come from to vibrate your body? Ultimately it comes from your legs! Part of the energy from pushing on pedals with legs goes into rolling the wheel and propelling the bike forward, part goes into flexing tire (rolling resistance), any vibrations that make it past your tire and shake your body takes more energy away from rolling wheel and propelling bike forward.. so yes, maybe vibrations may cause muscle fatigue (haven't seen any definitive evidence of this, but seems reasonable)... BUT it take energy to vibrate your body.. and that energy is lost as heat and this is energy from your legs, that doesn't end up going into propelling bike forward! Minimizing rolling resistance loses (heat lost from flexing tire carcass) means higher pressures.. minimizing vibration loses (losses to heat from vibrating big floppy body) calls for lower pressures.. you you need to balance those loses with an "optimum" pressure.. vibration losses are not about "comfort" or muscle fatigue, they are about definitive energy loses and going faster!!
They are being forgotten, same way 23mm and under. Might still take another couple of years but so far I think 25s don't have a tubeless option either, I suspect that's because none of the tubeless sealants support pressures that 25s normally need.
My weight is 83kg running 23mm tires with 110f/115r psi. I've tried 25mm but my tires always felt flat. Cornering to me felt sketchy. The roads I ride aren't too rough.
This is nice video now even though Jan & Rene Herse has been talking about lower tire pressures for years than what was commonly accepted. Welcome to the party... albeit uber late!
A lot of people here are confused by the wide angle lens effect on objects close to the camera, like handlebars. Get past that and focus on the subject.
I use Pirelli Cinturato Velo tubless tyres. I looked at the minimum and maximum pressures "printed" on the tyre, and blow them up to the middle of the two values, which is 70 psi. I also set both tyres the same. Looking at the chart in the video, the recommended value is 75 psi. It's close enough at 70.
I run 28mm in back at 75 psi, 25mm in front at the same, 75psi. I'm 78kg riding a 7kg bike, conti race light tubes. Should also be noted that you're in GB with notoriously bad roads which impact psi 😬
In the decades before tyre pressure calculators / charts, I've been running the highest pressure that doesn't result in "road buzz" for a given set up and where I'm riding. Turns out that's what the calculators spit out. I still don't understand how going tubeless let's you run lower pressures. Surely, if you were pinch flatting before then you're still going to smash your expensive rims into obstacles without more pressure or tyre volume
If you hit hard enough, yeah...you can still bash a rim. Most of the time what happens is you pinch the tube between the tire and the rim and get that distinctive snakebite puncture in the tube. Tubeless doesn't do that since there's no tube to pinch.
So, what are the hazards: to you; your wheel; or, your tire? 1) Slightly higher pressure (manufacture's recommended) - premature tire wear (prehap as much as 40% shorter distance). And you'll get a harsher ride & perhaps more sliding under braking. 2). Slightly low or Low tyre pressure - how long do you expect your rim to last? 500km (manybe a week), 3000km (few month to half season), 15,000km (1 to 3 years), 60,000km or more (the wheel should wear out from other causes). So, how low should you go? Low might also affect the confidence of your feel in corners. 3) Very Low pressure - your rim is going to ground out in corners (puncture hazard, rim damage, lose of control). How frequently are you going to encounter unexpected conditions? You'll need better planning than any traffic department. Pick your hazard! Try the recommend pressure for a long time. Adjust tyre width & mass as needed.
The chart seems pretty high for me. It suggests more than 2 bars above my personal sweet spot with GP5000’s. 6,2 is way to high in that case, I run a little over 4 bars.
i use 80 rear 75 front for about the same weight with inner tubes, works pretty well, for harsh tarmac I lower the rear to 75, and for shit tarmac keep them high, pinch flats sucks
Well that's useless, I thought this was for road bike? 28c-30c is more like gravel or (I was really gullible or stupid and bought a very uncomfortable carbon road bike) sort of tyres. Where is the recommended pressure for 23mm-25mm? You know, what proper road cyclists use.
24cm at the hoods, 33cm at the drops 🌞It's a track handlebar by Worx that I've been testing recently. You can read more about it here; www.bikeradar.com/features/first-look-friday/nopinz-time-trial-kit/
I am 76kg I have just had new tyres fitted, unfortunately I never wrote down my old tyres pressure which worked perfect. I have come off my back badly twice in the last 2 days. I’m now off the road until I can work it out. My tyres are 700x32c which where not on your grid, my tyres min is 58 psi and max 87 psi, my journey to work mixes road, bike path and gravel, the gravel is very bumpy, so I’m let to believe they are too hard, but can any one suggest what they should be as a starting point. Can’t risk coming off again, why did I come off, first was an inverse chamber, I slowed down but the bike slipped away, second I braked the rear tyre drifts when breaking, hit a wobble and went .
@74kg on my GP5000 TDF edition using 25mm tyres (25,7 Measured inflated) I use 80 Psi both front and rear. I'm using 26mm Carbon clincher rims. Tan Walls ROCK!
Crazy how I've been setting my tire pressure correctly this entire time lmao. Didn't know what was good for my weight so I just went to 80 in the rear and 70 in the front, and that's really comfortable and plenty fast for me.
no grand tour pro is running low psi 60 to 65 psi? tell that a to a pro and they will laugh ...im at 95 PSI on a 27.5 mm tire im 57 kgs bodyweight......by the way nice sportful jacket!
I’m 83kg riding 23s which I ride at 100psi. I do this because I “feel” it gives me faster speeds for less effort and also stops me getting pinch flats.
What is it with people wanting ever increasing comfort and wider tyres. A road bike is a road bike. Ride on roads and avoid pot holes. Simple. Better yet, put a cushion over the saddle and ride a miss daisy up right bike! If you want to be comfortable - buy an all suspension mountain bike. Guess what - they eat up the road 10x more than a dressed up road bike. If roads a bumpy, drop the pressure a bit. Job done. Really no need for 32 and beyond unless you are fat and middle aged. Just buy a flippin mountain bike if you want to be comfortable. You'd never believe how wide those tyres go!
I run 28mm Continental GP 5k S TR tubeless with Stan’s NoTubes sealant on a rim with 21mm inner width, 77mm deep. Right now, as I weigh about 85kg, I’m usually at 72/70 rear/front. For my 30mm on my 19mm inners, it’s 66/64. Not sure if it’s too much, it’s never clear to me.
Here in Stroud Glos. the roads are bad rough and potholes worse than cobbles I would say😂. I run tubed, Conti. 5000 700x28 77psi rear 75psi front that is a very good sweet spot oh I'm 79kg
On Zipp hookless rims, I'm running 54psi front 59psi rear, tubeless, I'm 64.5kg. I used Zipp's online info to determine the pressures and it seems spot on for me.
110 kilos = 95/100 psi for me 28mm tires Gator Hardshells average road conditions. Less psi or 23-25mm tires = pinch flats. More psi= punctures. Do what gets you the fewest flats to be your fastest!
My Specialized Armadillo Elite 700 x 25mm tyres are labelled 110-125 psi which is much higher than your recommendations. Tbh even 100 feels too hard (lots of vibration)
32mm is ridiculously wide, but 40 psi equals 2.75 bar which is slightly more than I run on my 195 mm car tyres. Are you sure your pressure gauge is working correctly?
@@einundsiebenziger5488 You're seriously comparing bike and car tires? And no 32mm isn't ridiculously wide; many endurance bikes now come with them, and gravel tires (not to mention mountain bike tires) are wider still.
It seems that if you are over 65 to 70 kg you shouldn’t use the hookless rims. Based on the chart, the recommended tire pressure for those over 70 kg would exceed the recommended pressure for hookless rims.
I'm a fatty at 230lbs (105kg), 28c Continental Gatorskins. I've used 80psi in the front and 85psi in the back for a long time with no issues on some fairly rough tarmac.
I’m a fit 103 kilo 52 year old male, i have 115 psi in my rear and a little less at the front, riding a Trek Madone.,Living in Swizerland where the roads are exceptional. Tyres are Conti GP 4000‘s
Table says optimal 80 psi, but Schwalbe recommends 85-115. Would it be safe to ride with 80, or there is a risk for the tyre to fall off on a corner? Tyre with tubes, width declared and measured is 28 mm. I have always ridden 90-95 front and 95-100 back. Thanks!
The biggest mistake people make is putting the same pressure in the front tire as the rear. Considering 60 to 80% of your weight is on the rear tire, why use the same pressure? I typically run 10 to 12 PSI less in the front tire.
I'd probably buck the trend and have been running 60psi rear and 50-55psi up front on 25mm GP5000TL's and am 82kg. Have run them as low as 40psi on occasion without collapsing the tire or bobbing up and down while riding
