What black magic is this? 

I would totally do that

Yeah, I bet that mode will taste like pineapple......

technically we already can.

It's not overcloking. It's just switchable between multi rail or single rail. Nothing new. Corsair do the same

80 year olds running faster than Usain Bolt 😂

This video is an advertisement for those PSUs. Don't expect him to say anything bad or say that you could find an older PSU with the same features

Can tell you why it's advertised as OCK. singlerail psu is better for overclocking on GPU and CPU then multirail.

Do you know why they call features by bad names ? Its marketing 😂 having psu that can switch between rail usage sound booooring. Overclocking psu sounds like something extra

What IS the difference between the single an multi rail?

@@lyianx Basically you are making 4 parallel 2-lane roads to 1 big 8-lane autobahn for the current.

Is that Wise? It lacks modern protections.

My understanding is it allows to push more power to one source so with OC mode on the device pluged to 12v2 for example will be able to draw more than 80 amps instead of 40 in non OC mode

Multi rail has each 12V group (rail) protected individually, if any of them draw too much the PSU shuts down. This is to protect individual components, but it also means a component that wants a bit more power as normal operation shuts down the PSU, while really the power supply has plenty of headroom because none of the other rails are drawing max power. Single rail combines all the groups, so individual components don't trigger protection, but total power draw still does. I think originally you actually had multiple rails because power supplies had separate circuitry for each that really couldn't handle more. Modern supplies however have the multiple rails are an addition that isn't really needed for the PSU itself, though load ballancing might improve efficiency or something. In practice however no-one really needs this. Only some extreme overclocking scenarios are ever going to need it. It's one of those "if you have to ask, you don't need it" things. I'm also not sure why Jay makes a big deal of it. This has existed for years and is fairly standard on high power PS's. The only thing special is the switch you can access without opening the case, which in my opinion is a bad idea; it's hard to picture a scenario where you routinely reboot to (de)activate such an OC feature, and if you do chances are you're going to forget switching at some point so you're better off leaving it on the single rail setting when not overclocking.

@@nagranoth_ I think it is important to note that you only switch it to single rail mode when you only have one component connected to the 12v rails. As soon as you have multiple components you risk frying them all at once on single rail mode, correct?

Yeah, I felt like he got distracted by the relay click instead of explaining what the actual point of it is. I started watching the video to find out what it was and left it not really knowing. Thanks to the others commenting to this for explaining it.

​@L3v3LLIP think of it like the breaker panel of your house. Let's say you have a 200 Amp main breaker, and 10 20 amp breakers feeding appropriately sized wiring and loads on each. (Of course nobody's generally pulling 200 Amps, but bear with the example). Now, let's say circuit 3 has a device that's malfunctioning and drawing more current than it should. So now there's 30 Amps on that 20 Amp circuit. The individual 20 Amp breaker will "detect" that over current. For a multi rail PSU the OCP (over current protection) detects the excess load on one rail and shuts down the entire PC. In contrast, if you could "single rail" (Overclock, lol) your home's breaker panel, instead of having 10 20 Amp circuits, they'd all feed off the main 200 Amp breaker. You'd still be able to effectively pull 200 Amps in your entire house. However, if one device/circuit is malfunctioning and drawing more current than it should (30 Amps on circuit 3, and let's say 4 Amps everywhere else), the main breaker is going to have no idea that that device/wiring on circuit 3 is being overloaded. Now, let's say you really needed 30 Amps, because you have two appliances. In a house, the right thing to do would be to add a circuit with appropriate wiring to "split" that 30 Amp load across two protection devices, or two circuits. In the PSU world, the "safer" approach is to stay multi rail, and try to balance your loads between the different rails to stay within their limits. However, in the PC/PSU world, if you truly have one device that only plugs in one PSU output that exceeds the current protection in multi rail, you CAN go single rail to work around it, but you're limiting (almost eliminateing) your current protection on your other devices.

That's just a sad excuse for not using PWM, as a PWM controlled fan still feeds the full 12V to its motor at all speed levels. There are more reasons for it, like providing a safe default configuration in case the circuit that regulates its speed is malfunctioning, with the short period of going full speed being only the time the control circuit requires to stabilize on startup. NTC temp sensors have a lot of noise so you need to collect quite a bit of data to calculate a more reliable value, which delays the startup time of that circuit significantly, especially if it's using a PID control circuit. Some PSU manufacturers like Seasonic also like to use fans with a type of bearing that needs to passively build up oil pressure while spinning, which may benefit from a fast spin-up to reduce wear and tear.

@@letalissonus It's possible that complexities like PWM are a bit risqué to the economy and longevity of a reliable PSU at their present state.

@@letalissonusdc motor stall current requirements still play into a pwm controlled system. The CURRENT is what spikes when starting a dc motor. Not voltage. Voltage can be effected based on a number of things but it’s not about that here because watts are watts. Even if the voltage drops, the current will go up to meet the watt requirement.

@@letalissonuswhile pwm DOES send the device full 12v all the time, the average voltage seen at the device would depend on the duty cycle. So for example, the average voltage that a 12v fan sees at 50% duty cycle pwm would be right at 6v working average. In this situation, current stays the same. So the result is less watts being used by the motor.

Or it's self-testing

1600 sounds really low though. Where vacuums in the US limited to 1600W? That was really not a lot back in the day. Or an electric oven?

​@@Mikasickistandard nowadays tbh

@@StimulationSimulated nowaday, yes. But 20 years ago 2500W was more or less standard. Now there are regulations on it if I remember correctly.

@@Mikasicki I might be talking out my ass but I believe most houses do have 220v for washing machines and some people have it wired in their garage but not through the actual house. This is just from my limited knowledge of working with my grandpa who was an electrician, mechanic, and plumber lol so maybe I should go ask him

Here in Africa the sockets are 240v 16A ,the breakers are 20A with 2.5mm (13 gauge) wire so its a total of 4700w per at wall outlet. Our sockets are a bit beefier than European and UK sockets. I don't think this affects PC's as much as it does American kitchen appliances 1600w limit for kettle sandwich toasters air fryers vacuum cleaners were ours are 2200w - 3000w. At least US electric ovens have dedicated 220v sockets, but remember its just the two 110v phases in Delta there is no neutral in US 220v 30a sockets so no GFCI possible on the 220v. What makes American electricity so dangerous is the amperage and lack of GFCI breaker on the entire panel i.e all breakers down stream of GFCI like in it is for us in 220v countries.

I bought a 1000 watt back in 2016 its just now starting to act up after tons of use and upgrading of the pc over these years timely video

Between CPUs and GPUs soon we'll need 20 Amp dedicated appliance circuits in bedrooms instead of standard 15 Amp ones because of the max wattage of the 15s won't be enough. Max wattage: 15A = 1800 watts 20A = 2400 watts

@@jd-py5nm The same happening to me. My 1000w is acting up now with 4090 and 13900k. I'm seeing 900w usage on the watt meter plug and random restarts without any errors. Waiting for my 1200w PSU to arrive now.

Yeah.. I bought my first bequiet back in 2008 or so. It was a P7 Dark Power 650W which felt incredibly over-powered to me at the time. But that thing kept going in the next two PCs I built after that and still works to this day - for all I know. That said: I'm "only" up by 100W now with a Straight Power 12 750W. I really don't think I need more than that for my 14700KF/RTX4070 +a bit of RGB-crap system - and I'm pretty confident I still have some power to spare should I decide to upgrade my GPU to a 4070Ti or perhaps even a 4080.

My first build used a 65W PSU in 1994. Hopefully things level off soon...we need optical logic gates or some equally massive breakthrough.

Here, in India, we use 6A and 16A sockets. 16A is common here for plugging ACs, microwaves, etc. My Corsair RM850x also came with the huge 16A plug, even though it's way overkill.

beQuiet have also supplied the same switch and panel for their high end PSUs for many years. Jay just lived under a rock it seems xd

got the dp 12 1000w its awsome

Got the 1500W version for my dream build and I don't expect to buy another power supply for a looong time. I can rest easy knowing my 3090 Ti power spikes mean absolutely nothing to my PSU.

What is bad about BeQuiet PSUs - their top models (1300w, 1600w) are not rated for 100v hence cannot be used in Japan. At the same time quite a lot of PSUs rated 100-240 (not 115-240) including 1300/1600w models though 1600w model will be limited to 1300w at 100v because of current limitation.

@@deadlymecury that's interesting input actually. As a European I wouldn't care for that, but that is definitely a dealbreaker to mot have that work in japan

Yes, it’s called Corsair Link I believe. My 1500i died after 6 years btw, so I’m not really convinced of the quality of it.

Can UK outlet socket supply 13 A continuously though? We have schuko outlets here that can give up to 16 A but only 10 A continuously unless it's super schuko which are used in car heating poles for example.

​​@@Simon_Denmarkyes, UK sockets up to correct spec can deliver 13a continuously just barely. The UK originally was a 250v system, but changed to 230-240 to match most of Europe. So 3kw is the technical maximum power an outlet is allowed to provide

It's strange for me that most US powerboxes (the mains supply) has a limit on how much power they can give. Some states in the US are now having power splitters at the house so you can have 220 and 110v. I guess when you live in a country that doesn't use a kettle to boil water for tea, the rest of your devices have to suffer.

Schuko can absolutely handle 10A continuous.

@@kamelionify The US power grid is 240v using split phase. We supply 120v to most outlets in a house because that is what most devices use, and from a shock standpoint it's safer. Also your suggestion of the kettle doesn't really apply. Most kettles don't take anywhere near enough wattage that a 120v outlet can supply. TechnologyConnections did a great video on the fact that there really isn't a difference. In most American households the highest wattage devices are typically things that won't be moved, dish washers, laundry washers & dryers, so therefore it makes sense to install the specific higher voltage outlet at that location. Ultimately the usage was based on the applications needed, in which its available but not always necessary.

It has. It’s the same size and I would be surprised if it was less efficient than this new PSU. It definitely has the same rating.

Gotta be ready for a next gen Titan : )

I'm running a Corsair 750W PSU that's fairly new, but my case, cooler, and fans are all Be Quiet. I plan to get their PSU as well, but probably the Pure Power 12 1000W option.

Interesting, here in Germany I never saw a 12A breaker. We have usually either 10A (for light circuits) or 16A (for circuits with power outlets) breakers.

12A breakers are actually very uncommon across Europe. 10A or 16A is typical.

@@Drumonymus Unless I'm drunk, I'm pretty sure my panel has only 12 and 16A breakers. Also could be wrong tho. Last time I popped a breaker was end of last year. I'm sure I swaped that pesky B12 for a C16 breaker supplying the work room.

@DrakkarCalethiel I didn't say you were wrong, I just said I don't know it. Didn't mean to offend you. The "Interesting" was not ironic or anything :) in which country do you live?

@@Drumonymus Gee, lf I would get "offened" by this, I would have to reconsider my life. xD Austria, your alpine neighbour. :D Just looked at my panel out of curiousity, 16A bathroom dedicated for the washer, 10A bathroom power + light, living room + entry room 12A, kitchen 3ph16A dedicated for the oven + 16A, sleeping room has a very odd 13A breaker and 12A swapped to 16A for the work room. The only thing that is totally weird is the 13A one. Just why?

How big was the explosion?

@@CalyX. not "big" big but loud as fuck and took down a MoBo with it.....never again

bequiet is not known to be a quality psu brand i would rather get corsair, seasonic or evga (if you can find one) but the feature set on this one is quite interesting

@@rev3489 Well thank god i didn't go and buy one on last black friday i went with another Corsair psu instead xD

Well mine too did a loud boom sound and took my mobo and gpu with it never again

lic the wires while it's running I dare you🤣

@@SaraMorgan-ym6ue What a stupid thing to say. How is that even relevant to my comment. It's not.

I'm pretty sure that 230 V is used pretty much everywhere in EU, it's the EU standard. Also depends on the outlet type, normal schuko for example can only supply 10 A continously unless you want to burn the socket.

@@Simon_Denmark 230 is writen but try to mesure it. 240. Lowest during "rush hour" is like 238v. And btw schuko is german plug made for 2,5mm cable and 16amp. Standart for schuko is B16 braker which can do up to 30 amp for small time period. 10 amp is for 1,5mm cable and it is usualy used for lights and not for plugs. There is also 2 and 6 amp breakers for lights but those are usually used for single light outside. 2 amp for led and 6 amp for up to 1000w halogen reflectors.

@@michalmichalsk Yep, I’m electrician. The normal schuko still can’t handle more than 10 A for a long period.

@@Simon_Denmark it can, and its doing it in million and millions of plugs all over europe for tens ano tens of years. maybe you are confused between AC and DC.

According to each manufacturer, they are practically the same size. EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2 is 200mm x 150mm x 85mm whereas the Dark Power Pro 13 1300/1600 are 200mm x 150mm x 86mm.