WHAT CAM RUNS BEST FOR THE STREETS? 

My go2 for a streetable sbc is 265` @ 50 / .630 solid roller with a composite distributor gear.

Been there done all that. Listen DYI at home

What do you recommend for a 69 oldmobile 455 stock big block? Rollers what type. Thanks Dave

The best thing about a roller cam is it can open valves quick and hold them near max lift longer, therefore filling the cylinder more effectively!

I run hydraulic roller lifters on the street but a short travel hydraulic roller, which in my mind is awesome. I am so glad that I found your channel, I thoroughly enjoy your videos!

I really enjoy your videos Ben your a breath of fresh air you get right to the point and you know what you are talking about thank you ☺👍

For anybody that might see this you can but hotrod oils with zinc from Lucas,driven ams oil and more you can buy 4falt tappets today for the price of one roller use light weight springs to break it in or take inner spring out if running duals, speedway also makes 1.3rockers for break in i use factory rockers with no trouble yet just check your lifters to make sure they have a crown on the bottom and I use jegs break in oil

Very informative video I have a 427 BBC with hydraulic roller that’s 99% street strip I just wanna make sure I can outrun the new mustangs and Camaros now days😂. Great Video

Hydraulic roller, narrow LSA, moderate duration and lift. Mine lived for eight years with no problems.

The reason for the larger lobe on the roller cam is because you are pushing on the lifter wheel at an angle. The flat tappet lifter is lifted from the edge with the point of the lifter so it actually moves the valve off the seat faster in the low lift. Flat tappet lifters will live if you use the right oil.

Its a multi-faceted choice. I like solids - less mass for springs to manage. But for each [roller or flat tappet], street use puts an eye on rate of change [as in lift per degree of rotation] that is about more than area under the curve. There's a host of hyd/roller specs to like, but are hard to find simiilar grinds in in solid roller - I don't like going over 0.550 lift on a street motor generally speaking, and that's personal prejudice of leaning towards lighter spring pressures. I like Godbolds recent turn towards something I think makes sense: asymmetrical lobes purposed to be gentler in putting valves back on the seat. Not a new idea as much as one in need of revisiting with an eye on refining newer roller tech - back in the day, Detroit was putting out flat tappet cams with roughly 30 degrees [0.006"-0.050"]. I suppose a good test for flat or roller is this: do you want much more than 0.25xdiameter lift? For a 2.02" valve that's 0.505" lift. After that, valve job fades into the background, and bowl work takes center stage . Getting bowls ported adds a chunk to head costs beyond a good valve job. Oils: we are on our own, therefore aftermarket needs to step up. The majority of formulations happen when car engineers roll up with a spec list, and where millions of units are going to be made, you bet oil companies make adjustments - I don't think its ever been any different. The public gets some info, but some is likely locked down inside an NDA as oil formulation often parallels engine development. In 1969, chevy put out 2.06M cars if I recall. That's clout. Zinc isn't gone, its just under 800ppm in newer oils, but know this: API spec leads to ASTM test numbers, also known as Another Stupid Test Method. The so called IVA & IVB tests [astm D6891 and D8350] call for an overhead cam type engine - the big guys are NOT testing/no longer use a procedure for flat tappet service ubiquitous to muscle cars. It can be done of course, but this is mechanical testing outside the realm of standard oil analysis service [that is primarily chemistry] a number of private companies offer. The number one job of oil being wear protection, challenge yourself to find a number or range put out by ANY oil maker for any of their offerings: is it good through 78,000 psi, 102,000 psi or what? Can we get at least a 5,000 psi range of quality assurance? Somebody needs to test, and publish, with an open and regular commitment because formulations change all the time. Call the results "awards", because... lawyers can screw anything up. Bronze=74k-82k, Silver=83k-91k, Gold=92k-100k, Platinum=101k-109k, and diamond=110k+ Try some hypothetical numbers, knowing a convex shape vs a plane produces a tangent. Say the contact patch [if oil were to fail] amounts to 0.080" square. That comes out to 0.0064 square inches. So... valve spring at max lift of 320 pounds force on a 1.5 rocker and the cam is seeing roughly 480 pounds force, unadjusted for geometry/flex/etc. Cam vs lifter is seeing near 75,000 psi. Oil is the most complex part of an engine.

Old Air Cooled VW's were Solid Flat tappet. Worked in a Shop when young and did 100's of adjustments. Not hard at all and you develop a technique. Had a stroker 2017 VW engine with a 460 lift 308 duration cam. 10:1 Compression tight quench engine as well. Ran on 91 octane. Stayed with a C6 Vette up to 80ph from a launch. Fun Car! They always said to do adjustments at all oil changes. Had a filter in mine so like most cars at 3000 miles. I never saw much of a change. With a roller probably not have as much need to do adjustments because of their much lower friction. Ben is correct that valve train geometry has to be right. I always thought about a solid roller for a street car.

Good video, thanks for sharing such good information. Is it possible to use a hydraulic roller camshaft with solid roller lifters?

Old ford were stuck with mushroom lifters. 1/2 inch bores, lower power and less popularity made it not worth it for companies i guess. For longevity i was told to run solid rollers on hydraulic roller lobes. This was a while back time on big block fords llhydraukic lifters were causing issues. Not sure why

Great videos Ben thank you, you are an inspiration to all of us👍🏻💯

Great stuff. There is nothing wrong with a good hydraulic setup. The latest Ford Performance 302H lifter is pretty damn good at high RPM. I'm using that w/ an Anderson N-41 and it can make a ton of power up top and still be dialed in for the street. I like the trick of getting some extra oiling on the distributor gear.

Thick oil with the Zink is the way to go ,top fuel cars run strait 50or 60 weight warm it up good before you run it hard ,valvoline

Use Driven Racing Oil GP-1 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil 20w-50. It has Zinc... Best is David Vizard's Extreme Oil though. Or you can use the extreme oil addative in your favorite oil also.

The only reason I went hyd flat tappet is because I found an older NOS lunati cam and lifter kit for less than $100 that matched my cyl head 😅

Best explanation I have heard to date... Awesome Thank you.

Yeah, the zinc is more than just the zinc, the entire formula in the oil was superior and was a big commercial and nascar cash crop, once whomever took out the detergents, and not just zinc and all of the other good ingredients with zinc, you can find zinc additive formulas with those ingredients, however they may not be in the same formulated amounts and balances for highly functioning oils when it comes to solid flat and hydraulic flat tappet camshafts. Roller cams hydraulic or solid mechanical roller and or other engineered materials are the only way to go.

Convex !!!

Oil issues aside, like he said flat tappets cant match the open and close ramps and that means everything, more power better mileage, better everything.

I'm a Chevy guy and about 20 years ago I ran Lunati, Comp, and Isky hydraulic flat tappet cams in my street strip 1977 Firebird that had 4.56 gears and a 3500 stall converter. The engine is a 350 4 bolt main bored .060 over with 11 to 1 dome pistons. Cranking compression was 240 psi. The Isky cam was the best. Duration @50 is 244 degrees on the intake and exhaust and .525 lift with a 108 lobe separation. That Isky cam was badass and outperformed the others that were pretty close in specs. 750 Barry Grant carburetor with a Wiend Team G intake. Dart Conquest 200 cc aluminum heads. It was my main driver lol. It consistently ran 6.90 and 7.00 in the 1/8 th mile. I ran it once in the qaurter mile and it went 11.70 because the transmission was about worn out. Mr. Bill that car was so much fun to drive and I miss it. There's nothing like a good strong naturally aspirated 500 ish horsepower street/strip car. Now everyone is running boost. My how the times have changed. I parked the car for a long time and now I have a 1987 Monte Carlo SS to put that motor in. I love your videos sir.

An engine builder once pointed out that the rollers have much less advantage than many regular folks think, mostly friction and valve speed. Saying the flat tappet cam is sharper and the lifter base is flatter, while the roller cam is flatter and the lifter roller is sharper? So basically the difference is much more in the profiles that can be made using a roller design with less friction. The science is way over my head, so I try to do what I'm told by the experts :).

David Vizard says LSA of 106 to 108 is best. Large LSA are giving away too mush power.

And on AMC, drill and tap the front cover to accept a small copper oil line/fitting and flatten the end a bit to spray the distributor gear 😉

great video. A LOT of guys have NO idea what you are talking about but There is a LOT of good technical numbers in here., That info on the moving the centerlines is something most guys never knew. It is not a "secret" but just not well known...Really good information

You can still get oil for Classic Motors that has Zinc in it .. I want to upgrade to a roller cam for sure. I have a a 327 350 HP grind flat tappet hydraulic lifter cam. Yes 15-W-40 Diesel oil would be good on the street 10-W-30 oil or thinner on the strip ..

i still run flat tappets for costs . my reasoning up to 240 duration and 550 lift i don t think the roller is worth the switch over have beaten b 303s with the old a 314 hydraulic flat tappet cam in similar built motors

Thanks, always enjoy your experienced and proven perspective!

What about a Rev kit for SBC.

Nascar use to run mushroom flat tappet lifters and you use to get them from your chevy dealer. Can you still get them?

Another great video, much thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’d like to try a street solid roller with a not so aggressive ramp profile but concerned about valve spring wear. I heard an old wives tale the motor needs to rotated occasionally or pressure taken off the rockers to reduce valve spring wear just sitting static.

Why make the lifter heavier?

I'm blessed to be able to hear your lecture you are a true professional . In today's words.....YOUR A REAL ONE! YOU ARE A OG OF THE TRADE! YOU'RE NO CAP AN KEEP IT 💯...

I would buy every one of your books if you would pin them. They would be cherished in the Crawford household.

I built the very first 427 Windsor kit Coast High Performance sold, I had a lot of Rod to cam clearance issues that I helped make them aware of but as a result I wound up running a Comp Flat Tappet because a roller wouldn’t clear the rod bolt ‘shoulders’ on the big end of the rod. Even with the little ‘broomstick’ 232/237 @ .050 hydraulic the motor makes plenty of power for my 2400 pound Cobra Replica. I also had a set of the original Trick Flow 170’s that were fully ported to 185-190 cc and flowed as well at .400 lift than the stock TF’s did at .550. They now flow like the 11R heads out of the box and also ported the Motorsports Victor Jr so the motor feels like a big block FE. The 427W is a really nice engine combo with fantastic wall to wall torque. I’m really enjoying this site I’m learning a lot from your insight into the how’s and why’s!

For a street car, use roller lifters only and on the camshaft, at .006 start lift use 40 degrees max lobe on valve overlap. Flat tappets is a waste of time.

Comi California strikes again with the oil

Great information. Thank you for bringing it to us. Would you consider doing a video defining a-z how to select the best off the shelf camshaft Also a-z how to design a custom cam profile . Thanks for all of these great episodes.

In recent years there's been an epidemic or hydraulic flat tappet lifters failing real early. I have a similar experienced engine builder mentor such as Ben and he will not use hydraulic flat tappets anymore whereas in years past, that was all he used. Part quality in general has suffered with all the major companies moving their manufacturing overseas.

Thanks Ben, Strait to the point and good info mate. 💪

Mr Ben , you touched on lifters and my brother has a 408 windsor with a hydraulic roller ,205 afr heads and the cam is 250/260 .638/.638 cam. He has Howard's hydraulic roller link bar lifters but wanted a short travel lifter but couldn't find any when he installed the cam so he got the Howard's. They are loud like a solid, he is having to freshen up the engine and while it's apart wants to get short travel lifters. What do you recommend and will it help for rpm to 7200?

Best Cam? The factory Cam. Thats why they use it. They've spent a long time figuring out what works best under all conditions.

On the galley plugs you can drill and tap the plug to fit a carburator jet, lock tight it in, and grind it off if needed, it only needs about a .020" hole roughly,

I run a solid roller cam in my 1978 Chevy BIG10 big block truck and pull a 26 ft enclosed race trailer. Also I run the Comp Cams composite distributor gear.

Understanding what you're talking about it's like understanding The escoffier cookbook

Your channel popped up and I was curious. I am so glad I watched, as I learned something and your explanation was so easy to understand. Liked and subbed and now I am looking forward to seeing all your content. Cheers and thanks from Calgary, Canada.

A lot of us guys just want to run a flat tappet on an old school sbc. I might have to run diesel oil from Arizona then.

So a car 350 cubic inches. Has a head that flows 210cfm@.4" and 260cfm@.5" lift. They have the equivalent to an rpm airgap and 750 holley double pumper. Camshaft #1 220@.05" .425" lift, 112 lsa. Camshaft #2 220@.05", .575" lift, 112 lsa. How much more power does Camshaft #2 make? I know if I swap a 210cfm set of heads in a similar combo for a set that do 260cfm at the same lift that a lot of power will be made. Perhaps 40hp,50hp or even 60hp additional. So how much more does cam #2 make lifting out to where the head makes 50 more cfm?

Benny, do you recommend using a rev kit for the HR cam. Soon I’ll be switching to an HR cam on my Chevy three fisty (350). Thanks again for the great videos.

Howdy Ben, what method do you use to set hydraulic roller lifters in a performance application?

I run Castrol 15W 40 diesel oil in my solid roller 347. Has lots of additives, I hear people run AW46 Hydraulic oil in C4 transmissions. Thanks again for another great video Ben.

You sir are a blessing thank you

Great informative video. Lots of good info in a short video. Oldsmobile V8s had the threaded galley plugs with the hole from the factory.

Thanks for all the Cam tips Ben.

Now days there’s a quality control issue in the processing of flat tappet cams …Hardening or cheap materials…either way they’re all junk

Thank you for your time and info. I'm putting together our 2006 Ford Boss 302 going to 347 using the Comp Cams short travel hydraulic roller lifters for the first time. I'm going to have a solid roller cam set up on the side for that extra hot night scene action.

Im putting together another cleveland for my cobra its going to be 12:5:1 static with a set of 3v CHI heads on it whats a good hydraulic roller for that on the street as im running a hydraulic flat tappet now but i did cut a lobe down on my first go round using mobil oil i switched to shella Rotella and its been fine so far with new cam but i want to get away from flat tappets. The car is 2,350lbs with 411 gears

It’s not the oil . I have a solid cam in my car for 20 years 250 dur at .050 with to days oil still good. It’s the crap cam and lifters they sell today. Buyer beware. I also just installed a crower solid in my 1971 mustang it’s still good two yers later.it’s the oil is nonsense 😊

I run a .650 lift solid roller in my 357w, it's fun on the street especially with a 5speed

What do you think about a solid roller lifters on hydraulic roller cam

More great information to consider! Like a Ford, my Buick 350 also has a distributor in front. I've heard of the hole in the galley plug trick, but hadn't considered changing the distributor gear for the new cam. Though I'm on a budget, I would feel a lot better using a roller cam since I've lost two camshafts in 10 years and have had lifters not spinning. But I do worry about possible lifter bore breakage with the more dramatic ramp of a roller cam lobe. Information is sparse on roller Buicks in the wild, and the few reading sources I find claim that I need to reinforce the lifter bores. Hopefully it's just a "full race" type of issue and less of a problem for a stout street engine. Perhaps I can get information from the Pontiac crowd, since their lifter bores look as thin as mine. Glad to have found your channel!

Recently I used dedicated diesel oil in my gas car since there was a good deal on a drum of it and I needed some diesel oil anyhow. Car didn't like it. It's an old 2003 OHC V6 and yep it burned it. It usually uses 1.5 pints between oil changes which are every 15,000miles (which I knock over in about 10 weeks) - always has. I live in a rural area so knocking over the miles like this is normal, the hours behind the wheel is only about the same as city commuting anyhow. This time it used the same amount but in half the time or 5 weeks, so when I put the recommended oil back in I was keeping a close eye on consumption - all is back to normal. Dual purpose diesel/gas oil of the correct grade is perfectly fine, dedicated diesel in gas engines might be fine for you but my old reliable wasn't happy, the poor 'ole thing.

I clicked on this one when I saw the high rev springs in the thumbnail. I Iearned about the lack of zinc the hard way. After properly breaking in my second flat tappet and losing it later I didn't GAF why I just went to a hydraulic roller. Later after a couple of collapses and getting bad ones new, I kissed off the hydraulics and have been happy with my Howards billet solid roller 110183-10 with 1.6 rockers and iron eagles with 237/245 @.050 with .592 topping my 1st gen .060 over with flat tops ever since. It's only a couple of degrees each more than the hydraulic, yet the vacuum and throttle response are both better with no worry of collapse. The only snag was they recommended Rev springs and though I installed them, it jacked my over-all temp a good 20 degrees. I had to put a hole though the bumper of the 87' Camaro I got it in to get air to the oil cooler mounted behind it to compensate. Real drag to do too man. I'm using a composite gear on the distributor with good results though, but part of that is even though I have a Melling sharktooth with a washer to jack it, I have wrist pin oilers (including one for the galley plug behind the chain) so warmed up I'm at only about 10psi on the oil pressure. Smokey said 7 psi a grand so going beyond that is just more wear and tear if you ask me. I'm running MPI on a single-plane World with an old non-progressive Holley Projection without the TBI injector pod. Got a 72v 250 amp Mars me-0913 bldc motor with a 8mm blower-belt driving a Paxton Novi 2000 @ about 1:3 giving me 5 psi on demand that's gone by each red-line, (which is OK since I'm shifting then anyway). I presently do haul around about 200lbs of AGM plus the100 lb unit itself; but lighter EV batteries are becomming more plentiful. Sure like the solid roller though.

I’m running an Isky HR in my Ford 306 per your recommendation many moons ago. It’s a 228/238@ .050, .520/.544 lift and 112 LSA. I put a 1.72 rocker on the intake for .559 lift. The Isky guy told me to install it straight up. Do you recommend advancing it 2-3 degrees for better low end? If so, will I lose some top end?

I ran solid or hydraulic flat tap.for 40 year.s. new only 1 or 2 went bad . Bad but only hydraulic. Now run solid flat tap . Plus can't afford roller

I buy zinc additive from racing shop by case. I run royal purple zero problems

Great video. What is the max lift you can go with a spider-dog bone type lifter retainer? I have a 302 stoker lift is .571 and .587... Thnx

👍🏻

Ben when are you going to do a giveaway and do you sell merch

If you run flat tappet use lucas hot rod oil, or amsiol, and there is a generic race oil I don't remember the name. The zinc additive won't work cuz it don't blend well with now a days oils. Royal purple has a race oil but only has 1600 ppm zince. Lucas oil has 2200 ppm in zinc. Amsoil has 2000 ppm In zinc. You want at least 2000 ppm zinc in the oil for the tappet to survive. Lucas oil is 50 dollars for 5 quarts. Amsoil is about 70 for 5 quartz. This info is of 2024 January

I'm running Isky flat tappet cams and lifters, not having any problems. Use std. clearances and use a high volume oil pump along with a good high quality 5W30 modern synthetic oil. I use 5W30 Amsoil Signature Series, API SP. Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30, API SP is a top shelf oil as well.

AMSOIL 10W40 AMO product code, been available since 1972 why mess with anything less? I have broke in cams with that blend with 150 on the seat and 375 on the nose and at idle during 1st start on a used cam with new lifters. Solid Crane cam F-238 SBF that engine lasted ten years and i NEVER changed the oil 50,000 miles in a 351 Windsor that made 360 hp to the wheels in 2001 oh and to add I set the lash and when I eventually went to a solid roller around 5 years later the lash did not even change after 25,000 miles I learned alot but knew it could be done

I'm running a flat tappet racing cam an would love to know what roller cam followers to use on it because I'm running a 1.6 ratio roller lifter on it now ,,,, It's on a v6 essex engine !!! Please give me some advice !!!

Hey Ben as far as the distributor gear on my 351C hydraulic roller cam, I have standard pump and used a bronze gear on Mallory distributor but some teeth sheared off and the cam guy said to use a steel or iron gear which I did and so far so good but the engine is together, so there is nothing I can do now right? That gear gets little oil huh? Regarding oils my favorite with a wide index of 0w40 is LiquiMoly Synthoil. It tests very good and I have tested in my kitchen(don't ask how). I think it uses esters and not sure what else but on scar tests the metal pin sees almost zero wear with temperature and pressure. This is my goto oil for a heavier oil that makes your engine quieter, adheres to metal parts, etc

Edelbrock RPM cam ,the comp cams with a 108 center lobe suck in my oppoin edelbrock pat mussi rolling thunder cams are 112 lobe separation

That's great to hear. I'm putting together a solid roller sbf. For my ranger. I've known guys in the past with no adjustment problems either.

For a sbc, drill, and tap the front oil galleries for screw in plugs. Drill a .040 hole in the top plug behind the cam gear. The pressurized oil will lubricate the timing chain and cam gear.

I have watch a few of your videos..do you mind me calling you to pick you brain ? I'm at the final build of my SBF stroker 414 cube inch build. id like your true impression of my build.. if you have time to give me your thoughts ?

Thanks for the info, im putting my first engine together, got a 72 360 my machinist said he'll get me to 9to1 compression, got a hydraulic roller cam on the way with the appropriate rocker and springs, can you give me any tips for when i get my engine put together and itll probably take me a month or 2 of weekends to swap into where my 225 was, can i put my cam in and heads on and not have it run for a month or two without the internals rusting on me, is that acceptable? should i lube it somehow to help it while its sitting, while im piecing it together before i fire it up, thanks

Ok so I run a flattappet cam cause it makes more power,and not a little even David Vizard shows you the right cam and he was right.

Convex not concave

Obviously a high duration roller will look more agressive than a lower duration flat tappet but the dramatic difference in lobe profile isn't because of the ramp speeds or duration what have you it's the geometry of tappet to lobe. The flat tappet contact is large so the lobe profile is narrow the roller contact area is tiny so the lobe profile is wide... If you were to watch the tappets ride the lobe it would be very obvious why there shaped how they are, If you take 2 cams with identical lift, duration and ramp speeds whatever but totally identical numbers one a roller one a FT you will see the same dramatic lobe shape difference they won't be shaped remotely similar but that roller will look way more agressive but it isnt... Yet they functionally will be the same as far as valve movement. This exact thing drives me crazy and I see it all the time. If you think I'm talking nonsense call comp cams or Howards and ask them if the shape is just more duration and unless the janitor answers the phone they will say the same thing I did, but even the janitor may know.

What can you tell me about The sbc 340292 turbo heads?

Only you talk about drilling the tiny hole behind the distributor in the freeze plug. This is why I watch and rewatch your videos.

Great Stuff Ben 👍Hope All is Well

Is it preferable to run a 1:7 lifter versus just buying more cam lift?

My 259 Studebaker still runs with a solid flat tappet cam , I do use a grade 50 oil with a Zinc extra additive , no problems yet, spring pressure is 100 lbs. On the seat.

I love your videos and all the tips and tricks you share thanks for the video Rick 427

Good information thank you for sharing your knowledge.

Thanks for video!

That explains why we keep those freeze plugs for the Fords everytime I do a teardown.

What brand of link bar hydraulic roller lifters do you recommend for a HR retrofit setup in an older non roller block SBF?

Thank you Mr Alameda !

What melo camshaft did you run to go 1030s

Need a recipe..... stck 351w block looking for 600hp. What roller cam gets me there? Thanks!

Can a 1973 LS4 be converted to a roller cam?

i like your video its good info , how ever i a question , i have a stroker 331 ford sb i have a hyd roller in it now i want to change over to a solid roller and i want to run this on the street what do u reecommend for a solid roller ,