Another super video, Hektor!!!!! I wish I spoke Spanish. I love it when you blast out with some colorful Spanish! "chingadera"!!!!!! Rock on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You're like the hispanic version of Scanner Danner, and you have some Chris Fix videography in your videos, you got a hot wife like Eric from South Main Auto. All you need now is now is to hit 100k subscribers and you've made it Homie. Keep the videos coming.
Hektor, Great Vids! Keep em coming. One thing I got thinking of is with some of these newer vehicles that use the 5V circuits these vehicles are using, ground side switching, etc you may want to address the test methods with the 5v adapter that power probe makes. Don't want someone backprobing their wiring taking a shortcut and sending 12v back thru the system and frying electrical components up to and including the ecm. Funny that whoever did heads if they were done didn't replace the cap. Anytime I drop a thermostat or water pump in a vehicle I drop a radiator cap in as it's cheap insurance and if it's your own vehicle your have a backup radiator cap though the backup cap isn't the reason for replacing it. Simple, if a bearing, seal or whatever in a pump is worn then think about the cheaper rubber they use in the radiator cap. Money well spent. I'd have your buddy take that fan back if that noisy and have them replace it. Most shops or parts houses can "defect" the part out. I'll let you explain the defecting the part out as your area may be different than mine. Wonder if the heads were done due to overheating before with the cap and/or the thermostat being the problem with the shop not doing a diagnosis on anything except what they feel will make them easy money. IF he'd just got that car we'd never know. I often see people correlate overheating with head gaskets and then have the issue again after they get it fixed or even a shop that would have that mentality and justify the head and/radiator to a customer but then afterwards say they don't know why it randomly overheats as they're not looking at the big picture. You saved that guy alot of money and I guarantee he'll be back to see you and referring anyone he knows in the future. You should if you don't have already have these guys doing yelp, Google, Yahoo Reviews etc that way you build your public presence along with if not already doing the Facebook/Instagram hookup so it all ties together. Just make sure if someone leaves a bad review publicly you address it with them and also reply on the review whether good or bad so people will see and others continue to see you're a stand up guy. Year or two from now you'll have couple guys working for you and be able to keep gradually building the dream bit by bit..... As they say some things are a blessing in disguise.....
Homie hector back at it again. Thank for the information love your videos bro just like how you brake it down for anyone who Interested in learning keep up the good work 👍🙏
You told other Diyers that they would leave the old clamp on rather than take it off. Also you did repeat yourself a few times, but that may just be your style. Did you ever check the A/c clutch for engagement?
One thing you might want to add, it can also be the ac compressor itself that causes the overhead condition....i went through everything you did in this video and i was still having an issue with overheating but it seemed to be only when two conditions were met 1.) ac had to be on 2.) ambient temps had to be above 80 degrees.... took me a long time to find the issue after doing pressure tests on the system, flushing and back flushing the system multiple times, replacing the thermostat, replacing the radiator cap, heck i even replaced the entire radiator with a brand new unit and none of that mattered.... what did it end up being? A bad ac compressor that showed no outward signs of being bad, no pulley squeal, not a single noise, but after getting it replaced i have not seen the issue come back
Hektor...My name is ken i have a 2003 jeep liberty..Very strange shit happening to jeep old owner gave me this jeep he said the water pump was replaced and i see it coolant moving around ..first time coolant fan stopped working i seen that the butt connectors were burnt..I soldered them together and tape them then started to work.again (summer time) had the air On and fan stay on while operating..now weather has changed so no air on. Now the fan reached 218 fan will come on but its too late boils in coolant tank..(overheats) but gauge is in the middle,not in red..fan controller was replaced and sensor too problem again fan controller stopped working put old fan controller back on fan comes on with air on only but 218 is too hot boils...getting another fan controller...i did see earlier that a green wiring was corroded so i spliced a wire in it..someone stuck a probe in in and never taped it..Not getting good heat either..with air on in hot mode it comes out cold if i disconnect the compressor it will warm up thru vents i hear the duct door changing...so the compressor has to turn so the fan comes on but it takes a minute to come on..Oh that green wire if i touch a probe on it it turns the fan on..the vehicle runs fine with the fan on all the time but when do i turn off the air conditioner in the winter time wasting gas.Tommorow i wikk get a replacement fan controller and see what happens i think it was poorly design.. thanks ken
Hey hektor, what if my coolant is leaking, but I'm getting no exhaust smoke, no milky oil on dipstick, oil level stays the same, and no visible leaks? Could water pump be leaking?
Damn hektor over here giving me a notification thinking imma get a reply lmao. Shit, car's been in the shop getting a heap of upgrades but got it back last week and it's still leaking coolant - took it back today. funny that you like the comment today. Well if you do reply. its a 2001 volvo v70 t5
