What grease should you be using?? - TMT 

I have watched many of your videos and learn something from each one. I worked for a John Deere dealership for over 22 years and never knew a sales person to have the knowledge and willingness to advise a customer with information like you do. You and the dealership you work for are a cut above any I have worked with. Keep up the good work

I can still hear my Dad “Boy, parts are expensive, Grease is cheep, why don’t I see clean Zerks, put those caps back on” Fifty years later and I still walk around the tractor saying in a snarky voice “Parts are bla bla bla” and I still duck, because I know that smacks coming. So what do my boys hear, yea you guessed it.

Man, you pack a lot of valuable information into every one of your videos - I always wanted to know what the real differences were between the grease types! Thanks so much, I learned a lot!

I run TWO grease guns; one for pins, one for bearings.

thanks for all the info, one for the little guys , great presentation.

the synthetics are also nice in very cold climates, where others can literally 'freeze' to a pin or joint causing binding until warmed

Nothing beats maintenance except, more maintenance.

Great info Neil , I’ve been using mobile 1 synthetic grease on all my equipment for years now and it does a great job, has a really good temp range for us way up north we’re it gets very cold in winter and very warm in the summer. Cheers from 🇨🇦👍👍🚜

Great video again. I only wish you had dealership in Canada

Moly grease recommended for pins/bushings, high temp grease not as good for pins/bushings but great for high speed bearings. Hightemp grease not as good for pins/bushings. Don't sell moly grease short. Sell the right grease and recommend the right grease for the application. Not a one size fits all answer. Great videos but their is a right place and use for every grease.

Even on my JD D120 lawn tractor I can notice a difference when I grease my spindles. The mower sounded completely different when I did it’s 25 hour service interval. Since then I do it more regularly since the change was so drastic. I just used JD general purpose grease

I love your videos. thank you

thanks for this service you provide, this channel. I don't live near you guys but if I did, I'd come around and bring some $ :-)

That’s crazy that you post this topic today since I spent roughly an hour in a Farm Supply store today trying to figure the best grease for my B3350HSDC’s (first)10 hour service. I even called my dealer and asked and they just said lithium. That was pretty vague. Glad I waited to lube up. I purchased Valvoline Crimson. I will research more before I pump the FEL, BH, and Mow Deck full of the wrong stuff. Thanks again for the totally relevant video.

Grease it baby, knew a guy with a bobcat loader who never greased his pivot points and yes it groaned all the time!

I use lubriplate a630 it works great

Great video

Grease your loader pins everyday and it won't matter what grease you use. If you grease it once a month and use it everyday, the choice of grease becomes very important. Use any modern wheel bearing high temp grease and grease often.

Having just ordered a new B2601 from my dealer here in VA, this was a very helpful review. Thank you! I have owned two previous Kubotas and a JD, but I have been tractor-less for 10 years. I don't suppose you have dealt with the hot potato of oils yet? My basic issue on oils is not so much brand as it is type and timing. Dino vs. synthetic and when. A friend got me using synthetic in vehicles and tractors a long time ago. I know it is better in some ways but not necessarily as often as I change the oil anyway. My big question, however, is always how soon to use synthetic? As I recall, I decided on tractors to use regular oil for the first year to allow adequate break-in wear.

I'm just going to binge all of these so I'll treat my new tractor right when I get it.

As My Grandfather who Farmed & Was also in the excavation business for over 50 plus years used to say: "Grease Is Cheaper Than pins." They always used Either Chevron, Exxon,Mobil or Texaco Hi temp grease.,(depending on which bulk fuel plant they were working closet too is whose grease we used) It was drilled into my head@ an early age that Grease is an ounce of prevention. Weather we were working on the farm or on clearing, demolition or excavation job not a day went by that our machinery didn't get greased. Most of the time The Machinery was grease in the morning along with Fueling. If my Pop, Great Uncle, Dad or any of the GC's they worked for heard anything squeak they stopped that operator & machine & handed the operator a grease gun filled with a fresh tube of grease. Meant for him to grease the machine. Mack

Neil thanks for your videos, as stated Grease is more complex than it seams. For example if you have a high speed bearing with a polyurea grease and pump lithium in it, it will fail because of the incompatibility. The grease won’t even stick to the race surfaces. (Like oil and water) Pins and bushings are not as big of a issue but bearings are. Look up a grease compatibility chart. It’s a big problem in the hvac industrial industry.

You know your trade. Great job.

About compatibility. Do not mix polyuria grease with really any others. Most would be lithium complex or calcium sulfonate. When mixed with polyurea they will liquify and run out

Would you recommend using Marine (water and corrosion resistant.) grease on a tractor? I have a Kubota L2501 that needs the pins and bushings greased and that's what I currently have available. Would Marine grease negatively impact anything?

Read the manual... it should tell you which grease for where. . If it does not say, I will default to a marine grade high temp. Its a bit more expensive. Resists water and works on my outboard.

If you're using something like red n tacky in your pins, do yourself a favor and try a tube of molly... you won't go back to the red stuff for pins or bushings.

Amsoil it up!

How does the high temp and synthec multi deal with the northern winter cold?

What about nlgi #3 vs #2? My tractor calls for #3 but seems hard to find

Can I apply one of those greases into the car Intermediate Drive Shaft housing? I removed CV Axle and the seal for Intermediate Drive Shaft and cleaned inside the housing, but what grease to add and how much? It is for 2001 Saturn SL2. Thank you for the informative film.

Is “High temp grease” still better at reducing wear compared to the Kubota’s Synthetic? (if we don’t account for how long the grease last or if “Near food supply” is not a concern… thanks!

Kind of off topic, but I see you sell New Holland products and have often wondered why you never talk about compact new Holland tractors. I watch a lot of the comparison videos from kabota vs John Deere, but never see boomers in the mix. Are they less common? I have a Boomer 24 and there is very little information about this tractor, capabilities / how it stacks up to the competition. Just thought I'd ask. Thanks for all the videos. I enjoy them and Learn a lot

When we choose a grease for an application, we should consider what oil and viscosity of oil would best work in the area and use that to start our grease selection. Grease is simply oil in a thickener. About 85 percent of a tube of grease is actually oil the rest is thickener and additives. Moly, or M OS2, is a solid film lubricant that is mined from the earth and is great for high shock loads like you find in bucket pins. Different thickeners also help determine the heat stability. Just about any Lithium or Lithium complex grease has a dropping point of nearly 500 F , which means you can work with that grease at about 350 F. Most grease marketers will put “Hi Temp” on one tube but not the other and they both have the same dropping point. It’s about marketing. Also, the color of the grease has nothing to do with the performance, it is simply a dye for identification and marketing. There could be a blue grease, that has better high heat characteristics than a grease that is red in color. Look at the thickener or refer to the product data sheet. Both Lithium complex and Calcium Complex thickened greases have great resistance to water washout which is needed on outdoor equipment.

Is Triax Spheron HT a good general purpose grease for an excavator? Noob here

I want to switch to synthetic grease from non synthetic in my bx. Is it ok to go ahead and make the change once and stick with the synthetic grease moving forward or do I need to purge the existing grease somehow?

What do you think of Lucas Red N Tacky?

I’m an excavation contractor out of Texas. I use high temp brake grease for all my applications.

I am buying a new M7040 tractor in Thailand for my wife's village. What type of grease is used at the factory ie. Natural or synthetic? If I choose to use synthetic grease, do I have to purge the grease in the tractor to avoid mixing the natural or synthetic grease? Last question I promise! Does the user manual have a lubrication service diagram to ensure that all lube points are serviced and does the manual specify what type grease to be used? PS Awesome videos! I'm enjoying learning about tractors!!

Isn't synthetic still petroleum based? It is with motor oil.

do an episode on a quality grease gun. I am having a hard time finding one that works worth a darn

So what grease was that synthetic one you had? I’ll pay a higher price to me it’s worth it

Neil, are you at the Elizabethtown location?

Who manufactures the ambra oils and grease?

Given the grease schedule of every 10 hours for the loader and backhoe on a Kubota, does it really matter if you use a longer lasting synthetic grease? Won't a bargain priced moly do just as good, given the frequency at which it is changed?

I went to the local Kubota dealer where I purchased my mower and asked which grease is best for my spindles, the guy behind the counter just said "it's all about the same. Anything will do". I haven't been back there since.

Neil is very helpful and knowlegeable about so many things…but. THIS VIDEO about GREASE types borders on useless…. UN-informative…and MIS-leading. Lots of “key words” uselessly thrown about with no real information provided. PLEASE NEIL… RE-DO THIS VIDEO and take THIS one DOWN! Grease is OIL… mixed with thickener to prevent it being lost thru useage….I.E. to keep the oil IN PLACE for longer periods of time. The TYPE THICKENERS used impart different characteristics to the grease which helps it perform best in different applications. LITHIUM is a Good, All-Around thickener for General Purposes including roller bearings, ball bearings, and tie-rod ends. Calcium Sulfonate is a thickener that is more waterproof than Lithium and is better at marine and boat trailer wheel bearings which are submerged and subject to wash-out, because of it’s water-proof properties…. it will keep the grease in-place longer than Lithium. BUT… Lithium will not mix well with Calcium, or Aluminum-base thickeners. If you mix different thickeners with each other they will SEPARATE and CONGEAL and fail to release the oil to do it’s job. The bearings will not receive that oil and will be subject to EARLY FAILURE because the mixed thickeners conflict with each other. So whatever grease thickener you choose…STAY WITH THAT unless you COMPLETELY REMOVE the other type. Within the family of General Purpose Greases there falls “High Temperature”, “Extreme Pressure” and “Heavy Duty” adjectives which describe greases with heavier-viscosity oils, Extreme Pressure additives such as Phophoric additive, and heavier-duty thickeners. Those terms are usually “subjective” and can often merely be promotional comments on the package, but “High Temperature” is usually associated with high-speed wheel and spindle bearings and disc-brake systems and are NOT to be used in “low temperature” operations such as refrigeration systems or in Arctic conditions because they will not “flow” properly at low temps. For most tractor operators, any “Heavy Duty, General Purpose, Lithium complex grease is appropriate and there is no need to spend more than $5 for a tube of such grease. The “best” all-around viscosity will be labelled “ NLGI#2, GC-LB”. which describes an industry standard appropriate for the majority of vehicles, tractors and construction equipment if nothing else is specified. Synthetic greases can be given extra points for staying on-the-job longer…. so if you cannot grease regularly and can only do so infrequently… Synthetic grease may help alleviate that shortcoming. But generally speaking, unless the equipment manufacturer specifies Synthetic grease…then it’s more economical AND better for your equipment to use less expensive mineral greases and use them more often. (More frequent greasing not only provides fresh oil to the working parts…it also pushes out dirt, corrosion and old product when the new grease is pumped-in.) MOLY grease ….Neil… is NOT “cheaper”. Price is NOT the advantage of “Moly” grease. (In fact, Good Moly Grease is more expensive than good General-Purpose grease.) “Moly” is short for “molybdenum disulfide” … a compound made from the mineral ore molybdenite. It acts similar to graphite in that it forms dry flakes that “slip and slide” around and over each other thereby providing a long-lasting lubricating coating and is best for pins, bushings, pivots, etc that do NOT use bearings such as rollers or balls. A front-end-loader is an excellent example of food use for Moly Grease. Do NOT use Moly grease on wheel bearings, roller or ball bearings, etc. because the moly will allow the rollers/balls to “slide” instead of roll….and that can damage the bearings. Hope this helps. Thank you Neil for the vast majority of your VERY helpful informative videos. Kind regards George Horn

I have been bad. I have 40 hours on my tractor and havent greased anything.

Beware the contaniments!!

all lubs n oil are made of crude oil. check out what its base is n mineral oil is crude oil based too

Normal moly greases are NOT for roller/ball bearings. The moly can be so slick the balls won't roll properly and can ruin them. Synthetic greases work much better at low temps, especially below 0F. The synthetic base in those greases don't thicken up nearly as much as conventional. Get it *before* the cold snap, you won't find it afterwards.

I always appreciate your videos, Neil, but Kubota's Owners Manual stipulates exactly which Grease (Shell Alvania EP2 now renamed Shell Gadus S2 V220 2), Hydrostatic fluid (ISO46HD) and engine oil (SAE 15W-40 for all climates) that their machines come with from the factory. Oh, and Ultra Low Sulfur Fuel (

Having the grease is 20%, using it is 80%

so I take it you have no info on grease for High Speed bearings such as those found on zero turns....

Just in case it hasn't been mentioned yet, never ever mix lithium and polyurea grease. They will not mix and will cause catastrophic failure. It's best to use whatever the manufacturer started the fittings off with. If switching to a synthetic, make sure you stick with the same base blend as the nonsynthetic that the manufacturer used.

i use the cheap ass chit in my almost dead grey market excavator, harbor freight baby!

all lubs n oil are made of crude oil. check out what its base is n mineral oil is crude oil based too

all lubs n oil are made of crude oil. check out what its base is n mineral oil is crude oil based too