PPl-1 is Polly lube grease and the closest to it is marine grease. HPG-1 grease is a thicker, water resistant grease. Close to Phil wood grease And CL-1 chain lube is a semi-wet type of grease best for dry/wet conditions
Thx for the product display, nice to see the basics and new items from Park. Never ever needed antiseize on a regularly maintained bike, wether road or MTB, cyclocros, etc. But great for bikes that spend many years before maintenantce or left outside or used seaside, that antiseize can be a blessing!
Also on basically every car site, with lots of really bad advice by "Well that's how my dad did it and it works for me so by golly that's how I do it" types. A dead giveaway is when they say to use anti-seize on brake caliper pins, or that greasing fastener threads doesn't affect torque settings. Do NOT listen to anyone who says that.
The only part of my touring bike that needs grease regularly is the thru axle on the front wheel. I have been using boat trailer bearing grease and have not had any issues.
Love Park Tool products. Thanks guys. I grew up riding in the 80s when mail order catalogs were on news print and there was no local shop. I ordered from a little family business down the road called Performance. How times have changed. All that to say, you can get perfectly suitable automotive or industrial alternatives to most bicycle stuff down at the farm supply store or hardware store. But you can also easily order bike specific stuff online today.
In other oils and lubricrants: I service my fork with motorbike suspension oil and ATF* from the car parts store and hydraulic grease from a tractor and digger place. I'm sure enough it's the same stuff that Rockshox sells. Except only about ⅒ the price. *I have a 2001 SID which requires a small amount of Red Rum, I use ATF for that. I dont think you need this on more modern forks.
Also, DualCo long nozzles (4") for their grease guns (like the Park Tool one) are incredibly useful, but horrendously expensive, & rare. What about sourcing these for the grease gun? I'd buy 2.
I wish Park made a grease at NLGI 3 for the bottom steering bearings. I've seen too many of those rust way to nothing because the grease washed away. A heavier product would be a good idea, and you don't worry about speed (much) on a steering bearing.
I feel like not all nlgi 2 greases are the same. I heard good stuff from Motorex 2000 but for water ingress, marine grease like the blue waterproof grease grease from maxima should do you good.
You'll find if you look that this never used to happen to 90/00s bikes. They didn't have sealed bearings so water could just drain out the bottom. Modern bikes have retarded stems with 4 or more holes in them to direct water straight onto the steerer tube. Then the water fills up on top of your "sealed" bearings
@@janeblogs324 not to critisize you as I do know old shimano square taper bbs were amazing at sealing water but I had never had issues with my steerer/headset having water. Sidenote, I think people should repack their sealed bearings, people just don't do it because nowhere says it's necessarry or good, but manufacturers don't use high quality grease either to save up cost.
For the past several years I've been using White Lightning Crystal grease. It's silicone based and has been good for wheel and steering bearings and anything else, such as the saddle stem to prevent it from sticking in the seat tube. When it comes to cleaning the ball bearings for re-greasing, it won't clean off with citrus cleaners. It's advantage is that it's waterproof, so if you do much riding in wet conditions, it won't wash out.
Boat trailer marine wheel bearing grease for wheel, BB and headset bearings? Made for severe service, possible water intrusion, has anti corrosion ingredients. What’s not to like?
Between my bike and car lubes, greases, threadlock & anti-seize I probably have most of these in one form or another, under other brand names. One of the few that I have is the "honey" stuff that's very light grease that basically turns into lube upon use. But isn't it basically what silicone car brake grease is?
Any of those are good. Not dry is the important things. If you are able to fully tighten, anti-seize is good, but the service removable thread locker such as TLR-1 if you must use less torque.
If only you guys would put out tech nerdy specs on those about what's inside, what temperature they handle and how it's comparing to other types of grease, the world of bike related internet would be much easier
Have had a tube of PPL-1 for about 4 or 5 years and it seems that it will never run out of grease, is there a double bottom in the tube? Anyways, great stuff!
Must be a location thing. In the states the standard is red (high strength) and blue (medium strength). Green varies from company to company but is typically a penetrating compound
SAC should not be used for that. ASC or grease can be used and in some cases a bearing retainer like RC-1 is needed. Most Full suspension companies have a diagram of the frame which calls out the surface prep at each bore. There are some that have a different prep from one bore to the next so it is important to look at manufacturer recommendations.
Excellent video. Now it would be very useful if you would show us dumbheads where and when to apply grease in a new video and what type of grease you use where, more specific. Show us please how you grease all greasable bike parts. 😅
I'd like to petition park tool to create and upgraded version of their standard polylube. Lithium complex greases are much less resistant to water and salt than aluminum or calcium soap based greases. Cheaper greases are also intended for higher temps like in truck bearings, whereas a bicycle needs to operate below -50 degrees F (as I sometimes do). Please see "jet-lube arctic" for the optimal grease formula to use
Our polylube is a polyurea grease. It has an optimal temp range for most bicycle applications and lasts 3-5 times as long as a lithium complex grease would. It is more resistant to wetting and is used in many sealed for life applications. If you want a wider temp range our HPG-1 has a wider temp range and is still a polyurea based grease. It is a different formula that is not as resistent to wetting. but in most applications that a bike sees, a polyurea grease is a top notch option. If low temp is your goal there are specifically formulated greases in many base types for that application.
ASC-1 would keep it quite for longer than most grease but would not eliminate it. A creak in a pressfit is typically due to some tolerance out out of roundness between the bottom bracket and shell. RC-1 is typically the best solution for a creaky bottom bracket
@@parktool Nothing out of round on a new Rocky Mountain Instinct frame i hope. Creak only happens coming down from a wheelie and slam on the front brake to do a pivot. Stuff like that. I'll assume the proper grease wasn't used when i got my last maintenance check. Thanks for the reply Park Tool! Love your vids!
You have rounded out the tool fitting in the bolt hed? If that is so, then RC-1 will not help. If these cases, use a new wrench and push down with force as you turn to loosen it. If one bolt come out, you can turn the entire caliper body counter-clockwise to also help free the bolt.
@@parktool I took it to mean that the female threads of the post mount are stripped. In which case the solution is installing a Helicoil (with threadlocker).
Id suggest something with a thinner viscosity but a computer expert may be your best bet on this one and not the bike experts. Wish I knew more about keyboards!
The thought behind using Teflon tape is to seal out moisture, take up space/tolerance between Interior and exterior threads as well as to create a long lasting barrier. None of which are bad things. Anti seize will will do most of them. Grease will as well but may not last as long(we are talking many many years of use here). They all provide some lubricity to help get the threads up to tension to create the friction needed to hold. Grease has been the go to for many years with great success. Anti seize has also been used for many years with great success. Teflon tape is a decent option as well that can make up for some tolerance issues as well.
In our experience, they do not. It's thought that the taper is so tight that no air or moisture can get in so there is no way for a galvanic reaction to take place. Not greasing is a practice that comes from the component manufacturers and from their experience overtime and predictability in future repairs. If the world were perfectly predictable, grease would be suggested.
Tubes of grease are just future landfill. Tubs are more recyclable (cardboard, tin, PET lid). Park Tool should be investigating low impact packaging, like Shimano is doing.
I don't get why in some threaded bottom brackets they use basically blue loctite and in others anti-seize grease, can someone explain? Looks contradictory for me 🤷🏻♂️
The primary thing a bottom bracket needs is simply enough pre-load on the parts from tightening them. Thread locker is a liquid so does have some lubrication properties as it is tightened. It dries and hardens, and expands somewhat. That will be additional security but typically not needed. Anti-seize stays put well in water, and if parts are tight, will stay tight. Thread locker will be a bit more work to take apart.
