What I have been working on for the last few months.... Positron V3!  

so true!

Very relatable

A question for everyone please help. How can I write personal projects in my resume to get the most out of it. I am a fresh graduate in electrical engineering.

@@khayyam741 unfortunately I can't help you with that, but I wish u the best!

@@michaelpxd6325 no problem maybe someone else will

Exactly what I was wondering myself

400-600 for an assembly kit I expect. Even 600 is in my opinion still pretty cheap for the functionality, but I'm not the creator Edit after anyone700 In stead of assembly kit I should have called it motors, pulleys and drives, 'cause I did leave out any and all assembly related things

@@Redicule_research._ridiculous I hope that is it less than 500, but with a small production, run costs might be higher. Maybe he will sell unassembled kits?

You guys are really understating the fact that this uses cnc machined aluminum parts. You would need serious scale to make this design under $1,000. The cost estimates he gives is him doing all the work, you are only looking at materials cost when it is $400-600

My time is limited. Can you give us a brief summary of why this upside down printer is better or provides something a normal 3d printer doesnt? For noobs like me.. its just a 3d printer.. thats upside down.

@@ChristopherJones16 How about you watch the videos if you’re confused on the benefits this design would confer

@@lanceanthony198 I agree that a TL;DR summary would be nice.

@@ChristopherJones16 we can probably just watch this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZAPaOevoeX0.html

That all depends on how the syncromesh cables stand the test of time. Have not heard of any projects using them successfully, but have heard plenty of failures. Just like how PBC linear rails look amazing on paper, there is a good chance they just do not work good enough. Adjust your expectations accordingly. That being said, it is possible that GT2 belts could be used in a similar configuration albeit at the cost of a larger footprint. Maybe Ill take a stab at that sometime.

Why 90mm, not 140? Both have dissipated airflow, not really helpful to cool down a small area. Blower fan is the way to go here, it delivers higher density airflow. For even more confined flow, we can use a duct. I tried 7530 blower + flexible duct, and it worked reasonably well.

Yoooo Bionicle + 3D printing : best crossover

@@pavelgorlachuk1460 Go for any size, so long as you use the right voltage

@@kingsidorak my point: you need a concentrated airflow. See, for instance, how the CNC machines are using compressed air or oil supplied over a hose, cooling the spot that is actually hot

​@@pavelgorlachuk1460 Thank you for explaing the concept of Hotend Cooling Ducts, and being a shining example of why I shouldn't care about RU-vid comments. Hotend Cooling Ducts only point at the specific spot of molten plastic for however fast you're printing, and then it's no longer cooling that spot. This causes the plastic to still be hot, and if it's not supported it droops. Giving it extra cooling when the hotend isn't cooling it anymore will help it droop less, imrproving overhangs which if you missed the point is what my original comment was about. Thank you for coming to my TedTalk Whether any of this is even applicable to this specific type of printer is something we will find out later when this thing is more available to test

patent an open source design? Are you out of your mind?

He talks about it in one of his videos, the gist of it is getting the best speed and stability at the smallest possible size required inverting the build plate. By inverting it he keeps the two high speed axes (X & Y) and the print head attached to the most stable portion of the printer - the base. That minimizes potential resonant effects when printing at higher speeds. It also makes it so only one rigid support is needed for the Z axis, because its doing so little. The Z axis is the only axis that moves away from the print head, and it's also the axis least affected by moving further away from the print head. Resonant effects aren't a concern on the Z axis since it's only moving 0.2mm every half a minute or so. This allows him to maximize build volume, speed, and quality while still fitting into his absurdly low space requirements. Originally it was meant to fit into a standard 1kg filament box and it looks like it still does, though he didn't show that in this video. This is kinematic design is called a mid-Tbot, which is a trimmed down and inverted version of the H-bot design a lot of very high speed printers use. Because that design has a lot of high speed parts at the top of the frame, the frame itself must be very large and rigid. That's why CoreXY and Hbot printers are almost always cubes close to twice the size of their intended build volume.

Same exact problems as regular z axis .... taller prints get woobbly

Because you achieve "maximum stability at minimum weight" to quote KRALYN3D. Or start watching at 2:47 of his FIRST video about the printer for more details.