What I Learned (Much Different Than 7018) 

I just found this on the internet regarding 7014 "The third digit of the electrode will indicate the position in which you can use it in. In this case the ‘1’ means that the 7014 is an all-position electrode. You should be able to use this rod in any of the positions, but welding in the vertical up position can be a little challenging.'

7014 has a iron powder coating and is fast fill and a fast freeze rod . It is good for putting down a lot of metal fast . Very good for open corners in the flat position with the right size rod and heat , when done right all that is needed to have a round corner is just polish off the light ripples to shape and smooth . I have found that at the end of the bead I have to lift some and back step to cover the end with slag to keep the pool at the end of the bead from getting a crack in the end . 7014 will make a very smooth weld . Works pretty good for over head if remember right . I will do filet welds really well as it puts down a lot of metal fast . If it is piling up in the center, move fast to get a flatter weld . You will like 7014 for some work after you get used to how it works . No one rod or size works for everything , different rods for different places or jobs to get the best results . I have welded chain links together with 3/32 7014 at 90 amps one pass , that I could not break with the log skidder winching as hard as it would pull on big timber , that was the only way I could repair a broken chain so it would slide through the hook properly . I welded a broken choker hook with 8018 and heat treated and it never broke , logging is hard on things . Weld a cutting edge on a big wheel loader that was broken in the middle with 8018 , V,ed out to the center preheated and filled back in both sides , I dug out tree stumps with it after that and it did not break . Ps , it was broke when I got the loader and don't know what some one did to break it .

7014 is made to run horizontal and flat I also have ran it downhill Always enjoy your videos stay strong and positive as you are

i learned welding on 7014. 10 years later i could never get it to work verticaly. its amazing flat though. bead comes out perfect and slag peels off easy. less grinding.

I learned on 7014, tacking rebar. Haven't done much since but it's in between 6010 and 7018 in terms of amperage. Also, part of 7018 being lo-hy is its slow freezing which would help it smooth out and hide inconsistencies. Also 7014 is the best-smelling rod

Love that your always keep learning something new

Thanks for sharing with us Austin. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.

Hey Austin! Love your videos man. Very informative and your demeanour is top notch! I’ve been welding for 21 years now. Hard to believe how fast the time goes! Take care! Watching from Nova Scotia, Canada 🇨🇦

Oh and thank you for telling us about Gus fab amazing content . God bless thanks for trying new things and sharing your experiences.

7014 is called a hippie rod, used in high humidity areas, great for horizontal and t joints. ive found that running it vertical, you have to have a perpendicular rod angle for it to behave decently

5:51 right now Love the videos Ross!

I love the fact I’m in welding school right now and I feel the struggle with trying to get better and having fun doing it. I am on my 7018 1/8 vertical weave and it’s been a pain. Trial and error!

Thank you very much for the experience of you trying.Really loved the video because it showed me how up hill was with 7014 ... am practicing with 7018 rod that's my first rod I got ... thankyou for trying something new agen and it shows that in welding you can't predict what will happen in a real life senerio. 👍

I remember the first time I tried uphill. Couldn’t get the slag off because the weld bowed out like that. Few weeks ago got a perfect uphill. First time trying it out since the first time.

Thanks for the schooling , I’ve made the best vertical welds downhill with 7014 , for the most part I like them ok

looks good bro.........id love to b able to start my stick weld as good as u!! Dam!!! man u make it look easy

When I was a teenager in the mid 70's working in my Dads shop. we had a contract, so I did the same process every week. most of what I did involved kind of a lap joint on quarter inch plate.The welds needed to look good so Dad wanted me to use 7014. I had to do overhead, Flat, vertical And about a 30 degree up hill. I loved the last one. I would hold a slight drag position on it and it was just like butter.. vertical if I remember correctly I would hold close to straight on with my rod. One more caveat. The welder that I had to use was a 1960 something Buzz Box.

A Grinding and Paint make you welder you ain’t lol. I love your videos like this because they show that it’s ok to experiment with different things

little tip on controlling the heat when welding coupons if you're testing out for D.1 or D1.5,there's not a limit on coupons-work on 2 or 3 samples testing out. they get to cool off better,submit the best one

Down hill is so fascinating if ya can get the puddle and feed of material right. Ya can pretty much just drag the puddle along the root and it will fill in nicely.

I’ve never been that good at uphill… But luckily, I’ve never had to do anything that required it, or always was able to move the project into another position… Honestly, for myself, I’d probably not worry about doing a fence post hinge in the uphill… But I can relate to wanting to improve one’s capabilities.

Down hill 7014 is so sweet , just lay it in there and let it do the work , beautiful.

I don't know if this would help or not, when I did my C ticket I was taught to go faster accross the center and hang out on the edges to avoid that michelan man belly. 👌 Thanks for bringing us along.

Oh Austin, fun fact for you. The thicker the plate, the harder the scale can be to get off. I run our company's plasma table and realized that when deburring half inch thick and thicker holes. (The guy that used to run our other machine also taught me hold the flapdisk at an angle on the plates and the slag will peel off if your speed is just right...)

The slag would take some getting use to. I thought it was "falling out" as soon as i saw it. It sure is hideous looking with the slag on it 😂. But yeah it would take some practice for sure. Ive never ran it myself, it does look good in a downhand and would be super easy to do. Thats a very helpful video, i learned a lot. Thank you sir.

You ought to try Mercer 80TAC rods. They run like 6013 to me.. no penetration and thick slag, but make some pretty welds.

I have welded with 7014 never on up hill can't be done flat and horizontal I did it on bar joist Eigithy footers won't let me upload pictures keep doing what you do son I have been following you for four years 😊

Are you running the rod DCEP or DCEN? Try reversing whatever polarity you are using. Don't run 7014 downhill or you'll get slag inclusions. The rutile flux of 7014 contributes to a high deposition rate but the downside is all the slag it throws off. 7014 is amazing for hanging gates. It has good elongation properties, doesn't need a rod oven in high humidity and can burn through a moderate amount of rust and mill scale. It's really the ideal rod for gates with high torque moments. Keep practicing and don't listen to people who tell you the 7014 is a "farmer's rod." That's nonsense. There's almost no better rod to hang a gate with.

I never could make 7014 work on any vertical.

I Have a hell of time running anything up hill with anything but if, I'm quick , close (almost drag) and 90 degrees to the work piece I can some times make an uphill look ok.

I have only welded some 2in pipe coupons with 7014, but I found it better to weld hot and fast and keep a tight pattern. The weld looks better but sucked to weld any uphill or downhill. I definitely liked uphill a bit better.

I use 7014 almost all the time, but have tried learning more about 7018...sorta a mirror image of your mostly using 7018 and trying to learn how to use 7014.....

i looked into 7014 and it is a high slag producing rod

I've had good luck with the square weaves stair step method where you build yourself a shelf and step it up that way but I have never been able to set a Stringer straight up vertically and it do any good 7014 is closely related to the 7024 jet rod 7014 is also the little brother to the 7018 electrode minus the iron powder

I love 7014! However I find it runs easier on reverse polarity (DCEN) but I can’t recall if it’s rated for that or not. I’d need to double check AWS A5.something to make sure it’s meant for that. But for practice with it I find DCEN the best. I believe it’s also rated for AC but don’t quote me on that. I run my 1/8th 7014 same amperage as my 1/8th 7018

Wedged with 7014 for the first time the other day and was told it’s an all position rod but not a big fan of it

Thnaks ❤❤❤

Do you have videos on HYP rod Austin? I’ve never ran it and was kind of curious what heats are for that rod and how to run it

the boogers look impressive and the weld below looks fine to the untrained eye. Thumbs up

Hi Austin, did you try going up a gear and down on the volts to stiffen the puddle?

Try a triangular pattern

Austin, i was always taught that arc length can control heat can you focus or answer more on that?

the amperage range for a 3/32 7014 welding rod is around 80-125 amps. One of the best features of a 7014 rod is that it can be used on all polarities. DCEP, DCEN, and AC. That is a good thing for folks who only have an AC welder. 7014 welding rods have a puddle that compares to a 6013 rods except that 7014 rods have a heavier flux coating and therefore make a bigger puddle. While 7014 rods do not require being kept in a oven, they weld a lot better if they are either freshly opened, or fresh out of a rod oven. Slag chipped off a lot easier when I used rods freshly out of the box. using a lot more drag angle that what is recommended by books works better in pushing the slag to the rear of the puddle. this is a drag rod

I used 7014 for filler rod work and most of it down hand or flat. Never tried vertical up or down. Have done horizontal and the flux would droop down. I like the 7018 better than 7014

I recently made some practice runs with 3/32" 7014 similar to what you're doing here. I ran at about 95 amps(shop machine) on 1/4" plate with a very slight weave and had no problems. Toes tied in just fine, but if I slowed down too much, it would hump in the middle and the slag would run. I also ran with almost no rod angle. I might have had 5 degrees on it. More angle and it tried to run off. 7014 is an all position rod, identified by the third digit being a "1". I think you're trying to lay in too much of a bead at whatever the amperage actually is on your machine, and that is what's causing the appearance to vary. For what it's worth, I didn't have a similar overheating problem on that 1/4" plate I used(T joint like yours as well).

Have you, tried circles? I'm no pro welder, but it only needs to hold.😊

To me it is kind of like Lincon 180 ,have you tried the figure 8 rod movement

7014 .. the "1" means: all position. With all that runny slag, it definitely isn't a downhill rod so uphill must be the thing. I can't imagine it overhead, to be honest. That would make an interesting video. Coffee on!

Will run better on DC straight polarity or AC current

Just a suggestion, but since the majority of viewers can’t relate the settings on your box to anything on their shop machine, it would be nice if you had an electric machine in your shop to show settings on. You’ve had a class 1 channel from episode number 1, and posts like this one exploring the nuances of the 7014 build on that tradition! That being said, the opinion of this retired AWS D15.1 certified welder of 41 years service is to leave the 7014’s for flat and slightly downhill projects, and stick to the old faithful 7018 & 6010 team for the out of position stuff! Thanks for a great channel!

I get good at vertical by the end of a project, then go so long between projects that I forget which technique works for which rod and need to start all over.

When you are practicing on coupons is it acceptable to quench the piece in water between beads to keep the heat manageable? Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful to those of us who are still somewhat beginners.

What remote do you have?

What lens is that?

mistake weaving on the first pass by the look of it . Try dragging and slight whipping up and settling back to form a narrow first pass ,and 3/32 if need be . don't get tricked by watching the slag watch the weld metal and what it is doing . Looking at your weld metal bead, it looks as though 7014 is very liquid with the hanging metal in the middle and leaves lots of slag compared to 7018 . You get a pinhole in your crater when you are welding a little to hot . 7018 will do that as well . Looking at the rod there is a ton of flux on it that will leave more slag it will affect your metal deposition as well . maybe run in narrow strips ? Rod brand can make a difference too more or less flux, or flux not evenly distributed on the rod . variations of amps and volts can make a difference like it does running beads with 8010g. Running beads to not get under cut on the bottom third using less amps and more volts to cure under cut

Try a bend test on it

Hey Austin, what are you using to get your welding shots? Do you just put an auto darkening lens in front of your camera? Or??

U can run them uphill 150 main & about 30 on reo

Bo Boulo😆😆👍👍

I enjoy watching your videos bud. You're like the Bob Ross of welding, all you need is an afro.

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It's almost like your moving to much to slow, try turning up to about 75 and make smaller movements, it made sense what u said about the ripple laying over the slag because it freezes so slow.

Shipyard weave uphill.

Proviso, I've only watched the first half of this video at this point. Based on such; it looks ropey, & too high a crown. I'd try a bit more heat, try a bit quicker across the width (without going out of your puddle), holding a bit longer on each end, and keeping rod 90 degrees to the vertical axis. With lo-hi (7018) I'd normally hold for a count of "one-and" on each side for first pass, "one, and, two, and" on second pass, and "one, and, two, and, three, and" on third pass.

7014 is supposed to be not as ductile as 7018, thus more succeptible to cracking? Experiences anyone? Vs the tried and true 7018?

that rod seems like its all flux! man thats a lot of slag

Why didn't you back step your vertical? Might have helped the stop/starts look better

I usually run 7018 on 85

7014 is definitely made to go uphill but if you dont keep the shortest arc possible it likes to undercut so bad.

7014 is a high iron powder flux hi deposition electrode,not designed for vertical-up. fun to play with though!

6013 isn't bad on vertical up .'

So I’m guessing your doing z’s all the way up

Try it on AC🤔

its 7014 the 1 means you can run it in all positions dosent mean it runs good in all positions tho

Like to see what 7014 does down hill

Man stick with the devil you know vs the devil you don’t know and move on…… I know this comment will get a lot of flak, I love learning as much as anyone but for vert up 7018 or 11018 is the boss!

since nobody is saying it. you are running to hot

30:35 7014 flat and horizontal 😎 31:14

You are on second rod, I think you where to hot

Harry Potter's Sorting Hat! 7014 will run vertical. But down is easier than up. Up is stronger than down. It freezes faster than 7018, slower than 6010.

It looks like you're moving too slow.

You may have a welding mask on, but your viewers dont. I personally wasn't prepared when you started welding, and it could have damaged my eyes. I put some sunglasses on and that helped a bit. You need to give a warning to your viewers that they need to have a welding mask before you start, or you'll be permanently damaging peoples eyes.