What I WISH I Knew When I STARTED CLIMBING 

I have watched hundreds of climbing videos and this is one of the best ever for information.

I climb V11 at this point and train 3 x 2-2.5 hours a week. This includes hangboarding, stretching, climbing and all other exercises. I like to focus on quality over quantity. You learn way better fresh than exhausted, and also get way stronger.

Wish this video was out a year ago. Thank you so much for the great advice

Thanks for sharing your experiences and these great bouldering tips, Maddie! 0:10 Tip#1: Repeat boulders 1:38 Tip#2: Fall correctly 3:15 Tip#3: Build a consistent hangboard habit 4:56 Tip#4: Vary your climbing styles 6:04 Tip#5: Make up boulders 7:04 Tip#6: Don’t spend too much time at the gym 8:27 Tip#7: Deload often

So happy you mentioned learning how to fall! I've measured the impact of falling in bouldering, and it's high enough to cause injuries simply due to repetition. So even when you don't sprain your ankle, over time it could cause degeneration in the joints. Learn to fall: T-rex, Turtle, Roll! Thanks for the video :)

These guides are better than what Magnus is charging for his course... Thank you!

Nice tips. I would also add: don't forget about training antagonist muscles otherwise you will build imbalance that will lead to injury. Climbing is mostly pulling, so some exercises that perform pushing (push-ups for example) should be added to the training. And don't forget about rotator cuff exercises. Lack of stability in the shoulder is a fast way for a serious injury. I wish I knew this years ago.

ty for the advice

Thanks, these are some excellent tips!

Wow what a gem this channel is. So glad I found it. Thank you.

I started climbing a little over a year ago and in that time I’ve learned all these the hard way. I feel like the hardest thing has been for me to rest because I generally never have. I’m a multi sport athlete with climbing being my second main sport next to cycling. Learned how to rehab my joints really well, so that’s good. Now I’m smart and only climb two days a week for 1-2 hours each. If I’m not climbing I hang board at home, core work and improving my hip/overall flexibility.

I just went to a climbing gym for the second time yesterday. These videos are so helpful. I'm kind of athletic, but my technique is garbage. I got a few 4's yesterday, but I made them soooo much harder than necessary. Thank you for helping me fix myself :)

The last tip is super important.

This channel is a gem, im so glad i found it! Great posters btw

Great video, it captures really helpful tips. Just about the time spent in the gym, I think it depends on the intensity/volume and the nature of workout/activity , might be okay only for 30mins or may be fit into hours. But I generally agree spending too many hours just limit/high-volume climbing esp. every session is not a good idea and potentially ground for injury. 🙌🏽✋🏼

Enjoyed the video, solid tips for session design and focusing on improving technique as well as those about consistency with training the fingers and keeping session volume down. I would avoid getting prescriptive with those as though there is always this urge to provide guidance, there is simply too much athlete context to consider. Your experiences on repeating climbs, venturing into antistyles, etc., are far more important than a common fingerboard protocol. Would love to see you expand on those elements of session design in future videos like what you look for when you repeat boulders and when to move on.

i love CR, always good setting when i visit. Gravity is my home gym tho :D

That's interesting! Love the time tip - I've started bouldering about a year ago, and I climb 2-3 times a week (just last week went up to 3-4), around 2 hours. We started out with 1-2 times, 1-1,5 hours. I've often felt our sessions were shorter than those of many others, and wondered if I should climb longer. So I'm really happy to hear that what we're doing is actually what you recommend! (I did try going more often when we started out, but soon realised that my body wasn't ready for it - I'm 40 and didn't do any sports as an adult ;))

Tip n.2: do not stick the landing! Zach: sticking every landing ever in every video hahaha. But seriously, why is he doing that? Very inspiring channel btw congrats to both of you!

Tip from me (35 year old V6 climber): do hangboarding once a week for about 4 to 8 weeks first, and only then go to twice a week. My fingers felt pretty sore and close to injured after starting with twice a week max hangs

You probably know best, but I think hangboarding less than body weight earlier can help prevent injuries for newer climbers. I had a huge spike in strength when I started climbing, but my fingers were very far behind my ambition. This lead to a nasty pulley injury off a pocket.

when is the best time to do max hangs? Before a bouldering session? I wouldn't want to lose any finger strength for my climbing session but that seems like the most logical time

I definitely climb for too long all the time. I have no skin and I only really stop when it gets too late or I start injuring myself 😅

Thank you for for all advice. It makes me deeply review my current training routine. But may I know that dose the 90 minutes include warm up cool down. And, I also curious about the total time on wall during your recommended training day. Thanks so much again for great content 💪💪

First time i saw an injury in bouldering was on a meme-app and it was pretty heavy. I went straight to youtube to search how to fall correctly. I still wonder what to do when you fall on your sides

I've seen people use weights and portable edges for hangboard training. What are your thoughts on this type of training and using resistance bands as an alternative to weights? It seems like a much easier way to build up gradually compared to using an actual hangboard

I started hangboarding very recently. I set up a timer and hangs the first 8s of every minute for 8 minutes with the large holes. It is still easy enough, but so far i never climbed after the hangboarding. Should I ? Or do i risk injuring myself? And if not how do you incorporate finger training with your rest days? Also i liked the video a lot, after 2 years of practice i realise i dont always fall properly so i should now focus on this! I try really hard to not injure myself (i warm up a lot) and i feel like I've improved a bit just by watching this video 😀

It’s probably bad that I did all of these red flags when starting. I started hang boarding and campus boarding at like 4-5 months in. I’ve been climbing for around 10 months now climbing v8-v9 and have not been injured yet somehow😅.

I find that its easier to practice technique when im tired, because im forced to use better technique because i cant just muscle through. Maybe i just shy away from the more difficult problems.

im that weird guy who falls elaborately, but i see much better climbers than me fall with terrible form and no comfort at all and its crazy to me!

Def in category of begginer mistakes. 3 times per week 3 hours sessions, after 5 months pulley injury😅

First

"Go to other gyms". Brother I'm lucky I have one gym within a 60 min drive.