Thanks mate - but you really need to watch more exciting internet videos … (i promise to clear your internet history should anything bad happen to you..) 👊
Many thanks for the information. Am I correct in thinking the the valve only rotates around 35-40 deg. either direction, ie. from around 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock with mid position at 12 o.clock? My previous unit would rotate a full 360 deg. in one direction only stopping at 3 positions as needed. When the old motor failed I could position it manually whereas this later valve returns to mid position when released. I'm not sure yet what is a fault. The rads. are heating when there should only be hot water. I found that the actuator motor was very hot, and NOT from conducted heat, ie. even when the pipes were cold. I would be grateful for any comments.
Hiya paul - hope you’re well mate. The little rig is quite useful to see how things move and work… been meaning to do one for a while and then found the perfect opportunity when the mother in law came round for sunday dinner! The torch thing works well i think… although credit for that goes to my 10 year old 😂😂
Should it completely seal one side of the system when it's switched to heating or water only? Mine just restricts it. Can still blow through it if I try
Thanks for this video. I have had problems with my heating working intermittently for the last few months. It will work fine for a few days or maybe a week and then the boiler won’t fire when the call for heat is made. If I turn it all off for a couple of days and then start again it will work again for a while. I assumed it was the boiler at fault nd maybe the PCB but then I noticed the hot water on its own works fine, boiler fires no problem and it works as it should. It only seems to be when CH only is selected. I can hear the boiler clicking on and off trying to start so I think it communicates with the room stat, goes to start and then the mid position actuator doesn’t move as it should. Does this sound the likely issue to you because if it was the brass valve then the hot water wouldn’t work either? Thanks.
Demand for hot water tends to be from the stat on the tank - rather than the 3 port. When heating demand on you should be able to hear the microswitch be clicked… Or, if you take the cover off the head you may be able to actually see the lever hit the switch. Be careful - 240v knocking about. I really will try and knock a video up later today and upload it - been meaning to do one for ages….
The hot water works fine yes When the heating is selected on the controller I can hear the boiler clicking as if to try and start. I can hear the click in the airing cupboard as well from the actuator, it might go anything from 0 seconds to hearing the pump start for various lengths of time but the boiler won’t fire (but only for CH), sometimes it will work ok and start straight away. The boiler seems to be communicating with everything ok but I just wonder if something inside the actuator is not working every time as it should hence the intermittent business
here it looks like fresh water is going through the same pipe as the dead water inside the closed radiator circuit. but that seems unhealthy that the fresh drink water and radiator water can get in touch even if it is just some small remainings that guided to the new opening.
The hot water that is sent to your hot water tank does NOT come out of your taps. It runs through a pipe in the middle of the tank and then back to the boiler. The fresh water in your tank gets heated up by the hot water in the pipe. They never mix.
I wouldn’t say it’s the most common but it does happen. I keep meaning to do a second video on issues/faults but struggling for time… but that’ll certainly be in the list.
@@petegasguy In my experience, if the valve let's by, change the body. Issues that suggest synchron motor failure, always replace the head. There's so much more going on with how the valve maintains mid and heating only positions.
